update:
i reverted windows to a restore point BEFORE installing Open Shell (classic start menu) and now everything is back to normal. I even like the win10 start menu better, anyway.
I'm pretty sure it broke something in the windows store and UWP apps.
I have a Windows 10 transfer question, hoping you folks can give me guidance on the best way to solve it.
I have a Dell PC with an M.2 nVME drive that has OEM Windows 10. This PC also came with a secondary platter HDD.
I have an iBUYPOWER PC with an empty M.2 nVME slot. This PC came with Windows 10 installed on a SATA SSD.
I'd like to do the following:
Keep the existing Windows 10 license on the Dell by transferring it to the platter HDD.
Take the M.2 nVME drive out of the Dell and install it in the iBUYPOWER.
Transfer the existing Windows 10 license on the iBUYPOWER onto the new M.2 nVME drive.
What's the best way to go about doing this? And is there a way to do this without having to purchase extra software?
Thanks!
The easiest way would be to just do fresh windows installs on both drives (make sure any relevant data is backed up).
Make sure that both copies are assigned to your microsoft account:
Go to microsoft.com and log in. Click on the portrait in the top right and choose my account, then choose devices from the top. Make sure both computers show up there.
yeah just do fresh installs and it shouldn't be a problem. A windows 10 license isn't tied to a hard drive.
At the absolute absolute worst, you'll have to go through an automated phone activation with Microsoft. But the odds of it "just working" are about 99.990%
I have a Windows 10 transfer question, hoping you folks can give me guidance on the best way to solve it.
I have a Dell PC with an M.2 nVME drive that has OEM Windows 10. This PC also came with a secondary platter HDD.
I have an iBUYPOWER PC with an empty M.2 nVME slot. This PC came with Windows 10 installed on a SATA SSD.
I'd like to do the following:
Keep the existing Windows 10 license on the Dell by transferring it to the platter HDD.
Take the M.2 nVME drive out of the Dell and install it in the iBUYPOWER.
Transfer the existing Windows 10 license on the iBUYPOWER onto the new M.2 nVME drive.
What's the best way to go about doing this? And is there a way to do this without having to purchase extra software?
Thanks!
The easiest way would be to just do fresh windows installs on both drives (make sure any relevant data is backed up).
Make sure that both copies are assigned to your microsoft account:
Go to microsoft.com and log in. Click on the portrait in the top right and choose my account, then choose devices from the top. Make sure both computers show up there.
yeah just do fresh installs and it shouldn't be a problem. A windows 10 license isn't tied to a hard drive.
At the absolute absolute worst, you'll have to go through an automated phone activation with Microsoft. But the odds of it "just working" are about 99.990%
Thank you!
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Inquisitor772 x Penny Arcade Fight Club ChampionA fixed point in space and timeRegistered Userregular
I plan on giving away the Dell PC after I remove the M.2 nVME drive. Is there anything I should consider, such as removing the license from my account, prior to giving the machine away? Does that somehow invalidate the OEM license or does the person getting the PC get to re-attach the license to their Microsoft account?
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
yeah just do fresh installs and it shouldn't be a problem. A windows 10 license isn't tied to a hard drive.
At the absolute absolute worst, you'll have to go through an automated phone activation with Microsoft. But the odds of it "just working" are about 99.990%
And there's always a 1% chance it won't work and they won't be able to help you. There are ways to fix that as long as your license is good.
I made a windows boot USB to install to a new PC but when I plug it in to boot it just gives me a top 2/3 black screen, bottom 1/3 graphical tearing thing that I can't pass. Booting without the drive takes me right to bios and everything seems normal on bios end. Does anyone have tips on how to troubleshoot this?
Edit: oh... I think I got it. I had to enable legacy settings to get the right USB key
Ok this reset your password every few months is driving me nuts. First of all I don’t want any password. And then every time I do it creates an empty dummy user account for some reason, sets it to default, and then tries to sign in with that when I boot up, fails, and I have to manually switch to my actual account
I have no idea how to get rid of this empty dummy user account, since it doesn’t show up on any settings. And I remember the last time it happened it just eventually disappeared on its own somehow. Which I’m hoping happens again but who knows
my computer forced a windows update and now my settings are all fucked.
My display auto-dims and I can't figure out how to turn it off, when I google for how to do it, the options that they list don't appear to be there
this is fucking maddening
does anyone know how to turn off auto dimming
edit: like when I start my computer, the screen is bright, then I can see windows gradually dim it right before my eyes. My computer NEVER has done this before
my computer forced a windows update and now my settings are all fucked.
My display auto-dims and I can't figure out how to turn it off, when I google for how to do it, the options that they list don't appear to be there
this is fucking maddening
does anyone know how to turn off auto dimming
edit: like when I start my computer, the screen is bright, then I can see windows gradually dim it right before my eyes. My computer NEVER has done this before
I dunno what you've tried, but this page has like five different ways to disable auto brightness. Apparently the Intel driver can ignore the system setting, which seems kinda terrible.
Ok this reset your password every few months is driving me nuts. First of all I don’t want any password. And then every time I do it creates an empty dummy user account for some reason, sets it to default, and then tries to sign in with that when I boot up, fails, and I have to manually switch to my actual account
I have no idea how to get rid of this empty dummy user account, since it doesn’t show up on any settings. And I remember the last time it happened it just eventually disappeared on its own somehow. Which I’m hoping happens again but who knows
I have not had to do any kind of password reset. Maybe check your Microsoft account and make sure anything isn't fucky?
Ok this reset your password every few months is driving me nuts. First of all I don’t want any password. And then every time I do it creates an empty dummy user account for some reason, sets it to default, and then tries to sign in with that when I boot up, fails, and I have to manually switch to my actual account
I have no idea how to get rid of this empty dummy user account, since it doesn’t show up on any settings. And I remember the last time it happened it just eventually disappeared on its own somehow. Which I’m hoping happens again but who knows
I have not had to do any kind of password reset. Maybe check your Microsoft account and make sure anything isn't fucky?
I really can’t find anything or any setting. And I’ve googled it and apparently it’s a Windows 10 thing. I’ll keep trying to figure it out. I can turn off requiring a sign in, but I still get this prompt every couple of months to change my password at the user screen.
Prohass on
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
I just went and turned those off, but I had never adjusted them for years and never had any issues?
I looked in my Nvidia settings and things seem to have gotten messed up there. It defaulted to RGB, when my normal setting is 422. Strange stuff is happening though, like last night i set it to 60hz (my tv's refresh) - and just now when I turned my TV on, windows defaulted to 25hz. I had to manually change it back to 60hz.
Currently I changed it back to 422, native resolution (4k), 60hz, TV set back to "standard" picture mode (as opposed to "dynamic), and it seems to be back to normal?
Hopefully this sticks
edit: I do have a widescreen monitor as well, 3440x1440p, and when I switch my output display to that I have no strange issues.
Al_wat on
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
edited August 2020
Stupid question time: if I have a Win7 computer I wanted to update to Win10, but had some software from older eras that runs fine in 7 but others have had difficulty getting it to work on 10... Could I clone the drive to an extra disk and upgrade one to Win10 while keeping the other at Win7 in a dual-boot set-up? Or would using the same key for two separate boot drives in the same desktop still run afoul of MS policies?
Stupid question time: if I have a Win7 computer I wanted to update to Win10, but had some software from older eras that runs fine in 7 but others have had difficulty getting it to work on 10... Could I clone the drive to an extra disk and upgrade one to Win10 while keeping the other at Win7 in a dual-boot set-up? Or would using the same key for two separate boot drives in the same desktop still run afoul of MS policies?
Yes, it would. But whether it'll work or not is a "your mileage may vary" situation. Microsoft really doesn't seem to care anymore, but if this is a work/business situation, then you're violating licensing.
Stupid question time: if I have a Win7 computer I wanted to update to Win10, but had some software from older eras that runs fine in 7 but others have had difficulty getting it to work on 10... Could I clone the drive to an extra disk and upgrade one to Win10 while keeping the other at Win7 in a dual-boot set-up? Or would using the same key for two separate boot drives in the same desktop still run afoul of MS policies?
Yes, it would. But whether it'll work or not is a "your mileage may vary" situation. Microsoft really doesn't seem to care anymore, but if this is a work/business situation, then you're violating licensing.
Nah, it's old games. Sounds like I'll just have to bite the bullet on the upgrade and hope the community figures something out later on.
So my start menu on Win 10 has started doing something annoying.
Previously when I used to launch, say, Discord. I'd hit 'Start', D, I, S and enter. The menu would automatically highlight the most likely candidate (Discord), allowing me to launch it. A couple of days ago this highlighting stopped, so I have to press down arrow twice to select my app. This is fucking with some seriously deep muscle memory, so I'm bouncing off it pretty hard every time.
The only thing I've changed recently was to fully index my file system, but turning that off again didn't seem to do 'owt. Tried leafing through the start menu settings, but there isn't anything relevant as far as I can see.
Stupid question time: if I have a Win7 computer I wanted to update to Win10, but had some software from older eras that runs fine in 7 but others have had difficulty getting it to work on 10... Could I clone the drive to an extra disk and upgrade one to Win10 while keeping the other at Win7 in a dual-boot set-up? Or would using the same key for two separate boot drives in the same desktop still run afoul of MS policies?
Yes, it would. But whether it'll work or not is a "your mileage may vary" situation. Microsoft really doesn't seem to care anymore, but if this is a work/business situation, then you're violating licensing.
Nah, it's old games. Sounds like I'll just have to bite the bullet on the upgrade and hope the community figures something out later on.
I wouldn't worry about it. Installing 10, then erasing it and installing 7, and then erasing it and installing 10, and so on wouldn't violate the licensing at all. Dual booting is just that with backups.
This windows feature update version 2004 has been sitting in update settings saying my PC is ready for it, but I'm not sure about downloading it unless windows update forces it through eventually.
I thought version 2004 was the one that brings the new chromium edge, but that got installed in a previous smaller update.
This windows feature update version 2004 has been sitting in update settings saying my PC is ready for it, but I'm not sure about downloading it unless windows update forces it through eventually.
I thought version 2004 was the one that brings the new chromium edge, but that got installed in a previous smaller update.
IIRC 2004 is the April update that became the May update and still had some rough edges at initial release. Windows Update has blocked installation of it on a bunch of systems because of known driver incompatibilities. My machine only became eligible to install it this week.
But it's required to enable WSL2, so it's a must have update for me.
I hadn't either, so I'm having fun getting back into it.
I've just been using Wallpaper Engine instead. I tried Rainmeter about 4-5 years ago and had more issues than not. Plus I just want pretty/moving wallpapers and not UI elements.
This windows feature update version 2004 has been sitting in update settings saying my PC is ready for it, but I'm not sure about downloading it unless windows update forces it through eventually.
I thought version 2004 was the one that brings the new chromium edge, but that got installed in a previous smaller update.
Yes, Edge Chromium-edition has been around for a while (and available as a separate and I think technically beta update before that?).
(crossposting from laptop thread)
Looking for some troubleshooting help. We got that HP Envy x360 for my wife a couple months ago. We've run into a problem with the USB-C port on it though. It doesn't recognize anything plugged in there. We've tried a Vantec dock as well as my Pixel phone to no avail. In Device Manager, I've noticed that under "USB Connection Managers", there is a device listed, UCM-USCI ASCP Device". After a reboot it looks ok, but once we plug in a USB-C device, it gets the yellow exclamation/triangle symbol and the device status is "Windows has stopped this device because it reported problems (Code 43)".
Windows updates are all complete, searching for new drivers reports that the best drivers are already installed. Google hasn't been much help. The only tech forum responses I've seen point to an HP support article saying to install a cumulative update for Windows 10 1809 but the laptop is on 2004.
Does anyone have suggestions?
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Sounds like a busted port. You're plugging something in and Windows is screaming "hey, shit's broken!" Blow it out with some compressed air, maybe take a look inside with a flashlight to make sure there's no dust in the port, but you're probably at "contact HP for assistance" here.
Hey, so I have kind of a weird issue going on. I just did a fresh install of Windows and in the course of doing that, I added my work email to the work/school account section in the settings. In doing so, I think it brought in some organizational stuff onto my computer that I can't seem to get rid of. I removed the account, but I think some stuff is still lingering. I've tried restarting multiple times after trying different things, but that doesn't seem to have helped. Most notably, they've mandated a minimum pin length requirement (6 vs the default 4). I've tried going into the local group settings and changing the minimum pin length there, but it doesn't seem to have been changed there and making changes myself to it doesn't remove the 6 long requirement. I'm almost tempted to just say fuck it and do another clean install of Windows, since all I've really done is just install a bunch of stuff and get some preferences setup how I like them, but it'd also mean a bunch more hours of doing all of that. Frankly, it's pretty annoying and has kind of ruined my afternoon. Anyone got any ideas?
Edit: Also, contacted Windows support about it and their advice other than restarting the computer again was just "idk, make a local account and use that instead" which is basically a non-solution, in my opinion.
Posts
and did the reset, nothing changed, either.
i reverted windows to a restore point BEFORE installing Open Shell (classic start menu) and now everything is back to normal. I even like the win10 start menu better, anyway.
I'm pretty sure it broke something in the windows store and UWP apps.
I'd like to do the following:
What's the best way to go about doing this? And is there a way to do this without having to purchase extra software?
Thanks!
The easiest way would be to just do fresh windows installs on both drives (make sure any relevant data is backed up).
Make sure that both copies are assigned to your microsoft account:
Go to microsoft.com and log in. Click on the portrait in the top right and choose my account, then choose devices from the top. Make sure both computers show up there.
Download the microsoft media creation tool:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
Follow the instructions to create a USB installer. Install the installer on a USB stick (4 gb or greater).
Move the drives, boot to the usb stick (will likely require a change to the boot order in the bios).
Follow the instructions to install windows. Windows should activate automatically.
At the absolute absolute worst, you'll have to go through an automated phone activation with Microsoft. But the odds of it "just working" are about 99.990%
Thank you!
And there's always a 1% chance it won't work and they won't be able to help you. There are ways to fix that as long as your license is good.
Edit: oh... I think I got it. I had to enable legacy settings to get the right USB key
I have no idea how to get rid of this empty dummy user account, since it doesn’t show up on any settings. And I remember the last time it happened it just eventually disappeared on its own somehow. Which I’m hoping happens again but who knows
my computer forced a windows update and now my settings are all fucked.
My display auto-dims and I can't figure out how to turn it off, when I google for how to do it, the options that they list don't appear to be there
this is fucking maddening
does anyone know how to turn off auto dimming
edit: like when I start my computer, the screen is bright, then I can see windows gradually dim it right before my eyes. My computer NEVER has done this before
I dunno what you've tried, but this page has like five different ways to disable auto brightness. Apparently the Intel driver can ignore the system setting, which seems kinda terrible.
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/70157-enable-disable-adaptive-brightness-windows-10-a.html
I don't even know man,
I don't know.
I have not had to do any kind of password reset. Maybe check your Microsoft account and make sure anything isn't fucky?
I really can’t find anything or any setting. And I’ve googled it and apparently it’s a Windows 10 thing. I’ll keep trying to figure it out. I can turn off requiring a sign in, but I still get this prompt every couple of months to change my password at the user screen.
Oh it's connected to a TV? The eco sensor and motion lighting are turned off right?
I looked in my Nvidia settings and things seem to have gotten messed up there. It defaulted to RGB, when my normal setting is 422. Strange stuff is happening though, like last night i set it to 60hz (my tv's refresh) - and just now when I turned my TV on, windows defaulted to 25hz. I had to manually change it back to 60hz.
Currently I changed it back to 422, native resolution (4k), 60hz, TV set back to "standard" picture mode (as opposed to "dynamic), and it seems to be back to normal?
Hopefully this sticks
edit: I do have a widescreen monitor as well, 3440x1440p, and when I switch my output display to that I have no strange issues.
Yes, it would. But whether it'll work or not is a "your mileage may vary" situation. Microsoft really doesn't seem to care anymore, but if this is a work/business situation, then you're violating licensing.
Nah, it's old games. Sounds like I'll just have to bite the bullet on the upgrade and hope the community figures something out later on.
Thanks for the feedback, @a5ehren & @wunderbar .
Previously when I used to launch, say, Discord. I'd hit 'Start', D, I, S and enter. The menu would automatically highlight the most likely candidate (Discord), allowing me to launch it. A couple of days ago this highlighting stopped, so I have to press down arrow twice to select my app. This is fucking with some seriously deep muscle memory, so I'm bouncing off it pretty hard every time.
The only thing I've changed recently was to fully index my file system, but turning that off again didn't seem to do 'owt. Tried leafing through the start menu settings, but there isn't anything relevant as far as I can see.
Anyone seen this before?
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
I wouldn't worry about it. Installing 10, then erasing it and installing 7, and then erasing it and installing 10, and so on wouldn't violate the licensing at all. Dual booting is just that with backups.
Had a nosy around and couldn't find anything matching your description
Having tried on a different PC, it seems what's missing is the "Best Match" functionality, as seen here (after typing visual).
I figure I must have accidentally turned something off, but fucked if I can find what it was!
http://steamcommunity.com/id/pablocampy
Shutting off Cortana should allow you to disable web searches when you type in the start menu
I also found this when I did some Google checks
I thought version 2004 was the one that brings the new chromium edge, but that got installed in a previous smaller update.
IIRC 2004 is the April update that became the May update and still had some rough edges at initial release. Windows Update has blocked installation of it on a bunch of systems because of known driver incompatibilities. My machine only became eligible to install it this week.
But it's required to enable WSL2, so it's a must have update for me.
I've just been using Wallpaper Engine instead. I tried Rainmeter about 4-5 years ago and had more issues than not. Plus I just want pretty/moving wallpapers and not UI elements.
That being said, I really like what you set up!
Yes, Edge Chromium-edition has been around for a while (and available as a separate and I think technically beta update before that?).
Looking for some troubleshooting help. We got that HP Envy x360 for my wife a couple months ago. We've run into a problem with the USB-C port on it though. It doesn't recognize anything plugged in there. We've tried a Vantec dock as well as my Pixel phone to no avail. In Device Manager, I've noticed that under "USB Connection Managers", there is a device listed, UCM-USCI ASCP Device". After a reboot it looks ok, but once we plug in a USB-C device, it gets the yellow exclamation/triangle symbol and the device status is "Windows has stopped this device because it reported problems (Code 43)".
Windows updates are all complete, searching for new drivers reports that the best drivers are already installed. Google hasn't been much help. The only tech forum responses I've seen point to an HP support article saying to install a cumulative update for Windows 10 1809 but the laptop is on 2004.
Does anyone have suggestions?
it killed telemetry stuff like this:
Edit: Also, contacted Windows support about it and their advice other than restarting the computer again was just "idk, make a local account and use that instead" which is basically a non-solution, in my opinion.