RE: holes in the yard, it could be any number of creatures from what I've seen. I have a few quarter-sized holes in my yard too, and I'm not sure I know exactly what the cause is yet. This website might help tell you more.
I went to Lowe's yesterday and they had no pressure treated lumber. Literally, none, just empty racks. Mill shutdowns because of covid and the Canadian border closing are causing a massive shortage. They said it'll probably be October before it even starts to recover.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.
What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?
Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?
Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.
Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.
A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.
Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.
Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.
What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?
Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?
Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.
Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.
A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.
Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.
Well, not every run needs to be Cat7 - the cameras definitely can be Cat6 or even 5e. But if I was having my house run today, I'd have the backbone runs done in Cat7 just for futureproofing.
Edit: But yes, running wire for surround sound is worth it as well. I'd have it set for 5.1 at least, and preferably either 5.1.2 or 7.1.
Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.
What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?
Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?
Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.
Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.
A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.
Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.
Well, not every run needs to be Cat7 - the cameras definitely can be Cat6 or even 5e. But if I was having my house run today, I'd have the backbone runs done in Cat7 just for futureproofing.
Edit: But yes, running wire for surround sound is worth it as well. I'd have it set for 5.1 at least, and preferably either 5.1.2 or 7.1.
Honestly, I don't think it's that bad to run Cat6 or Cat6A now. It'll be good for the foreseeable future, and if it comes time that you actually need to replace it, replacing the cables is waaaay less of a hassle than running new cable.
Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.
What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?
External sockets and lights. Think about everywhere you might want to plug in a lawn mower or whatever, and where you want external lighting.
As others have said, get it wired for Ethernet. I had an opportunity to do this with a house reno and didn't as the contractor was pro doing wireless everything which has been a mistake.
Also see if they can insulate to a higher spec and get better doors and insulate between floors. Noise reduction and heat/cold retention is great
We redid our basement over the winter and I framed our air distribution in with 2x3 that I put a non-stop drop ceiling around.
Just running the 2x3 frame and tying it into our existing joists - to say nothing of the noise absorbent ceiling - has cut the squeaks and creaks down by an incredible amount and firmed up our whole house.
Not going to do much for new construction, but the more things solidly tied together the quieter and stronger things will be.
Granted, local building codes might have you doing hurricane ties or weird earthquake resistant stuff anyway.
Also see if they can insulate to a higher spec and get better doors and insulate between floors. Noise reduction and heat/cold retention is great
We redid our basement over the winter and I framed our air distribution in with 2x3 that I put a non-stop drop ceiling around.
Just running the 2x3 frame and tying it into our existing joists - to say nothing of the noise absorbent ceiling - has cut the squeaks and creaks down by an incredible amount and firmed up our whole house.
Not going to do much for new construction, but the more things solidly tied together the quieter and stronger things will be.
Granted, local building codes might have you doing hurricane ties or weird earthquake resistant stuff anyway.
The house me and Bulgarian girl bought recently is, like everything in Sydney, pre-everything in it's build. Last weekend we finally got around to filling in all the old ventilation holes in the bricks.
What a difference. Even the relatively leaky basement now is actually way warmer, and the air conditioner is not working full power the whole time. My overall mood has improved a lot too - turns out when your constantly feeling a chill everywhere in your house, it's kind of miserable!
Oh, and a house buying tip for anyone who might be buying a house in the fall or winter. Find out what kind of trees are on the property. We bought our house in the winter and only discovered later that the two tall trees out front (on city property) are linden trees which are super prone to Aphids. This means that the Aphids are basically shitting a steady stream of partially digested sap all over the front lawn and any vehicles parked in front of the house for several months in the summer. This stuff is a super pain to clean off the car.
I went to Lowe's yesterday and they had no pressure treated lumber. Literally, none, just empty racks. Mill shutdowns because of covid and the Canadian border closing are causing a massive shortage. They said it'll probably be October before it even starts to recover.
We need our fence repaired (well, at this point entirely replaced tbh) and the best contractor here is flat out of wood. Like they build their own panels (because they're hurricane rated which actually isn't as absurd as you'd think in the upper midwest) but despite buying up everything they could from their suppliers at the start of the pandemic? With the windstorms in the last couple of months they're literally out of wood.
Which means the only thing we can go with is vinyl and ok great it's way less maintenance which I'm a fan of but it's also much more expensive.
The good news is if we can afford it the fence has a 50 year warranty (that transfers to new owners if the house is sold within 10 years) but the bad news is we're probably looking at between 7-8k to have them replace our fence and with all of the other expenses my roommates have dealt with recently I don't know if that's in the cards. I'm thinking we may end up having to go buy some stainless steel rods and chicken wire so that we can at least patch the fence enough that the dog can be let out without needing supervision.
Our oven seems to have crapped the bed. Our green beans got toasted yesterday on a regular temp. And then it wouldn't shut off. We had to flip the breaker for it. FUN.
Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.
It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk
Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.
It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk
You'd drill a hole through a concrete and have a drainage pipe run underneath the walk and gravel and drain into the lawn somewhere. I'm surprised they aren't having the downspout on the corner next to the garage door.
Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.
It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk
The "best" option is to run a PVC drain under the walk, but that would require breaking up the walk or at least cutting a channel in it. Letting it drain over the walk is the cheaper and arguably more practical option.
You could try directing the downspout to spill down the driveway instead but that's up to you if it's a better option.
Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.
It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk
You'd drill a hole through a concrete and have a drainage pipe run underneath the walk and gravel and drain into the lawn somewhere. I'm surprised they aren't having the downspout on the corner next to the garage door.
The driveway goes down into my house from the street, so if it was there, it would just pool in the little dip the driveway makes before coming back up into my house. Which is another thing I need to address at some point. I dunno how much it costs to get a drain across a driveway, hopefully not too much.
Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.
It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk
The "best" option is to run a PVC drain under the walk, but that would require breaking up the walk or at least cutting a channel in it. Letting it drain over the walk is the cheaper and arguably more practical option.
You could try directing the downspout to spill down the driveway instead but that's up to you if it's a better option.
Yeah, that'd probably be a good option. If I ever have someone out to do a drain across my driveway, that'd probably be something I'd have them look at while they're at it. Might be kinda sketchy cause I think there's some yard sprinkler pipe somewhere in that gravel, too, though.
Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.
What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?
Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?
Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.
Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.
A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.
Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.
$55 for a box of cat6 sounds like CCA pricing. Decent cat6 is over $100 a box.
Unless you have some awesome source of pure copper cat6.
Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.
What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?
Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?
Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.
Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.
A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.
Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.
$55 for a box of cat6 sounds like CCA pricing. Decent cat6 is over $100 a box.
Unless you have some awesome source of pure copper cat6.
So recently bought a house about a month ago. The house has an electric gate into the backyard that consists of two doors that swing inwards. After about a week of being in the house, I noticed that the two doors starts to scrape against the ground when they were fully opened. It became bad enough that they got stuck in the open positive and I had to physically dislodge each door while hitting the close button the remote.
We hired a gate repair company to fix the issue. They offered us two options: install brace posts or redo the posts of the gate entirely. We went with the latter options. It was pricey, but would maintain the original look of the backyard and the gate. The repair was schedule to be done on two different days. One day one they would take out the old gate posts and dig new holes, put in new concrete with new posts, and let the concrete set. After the concrete set for about a week they came back and hooked up the two doors, which had been left leaning against the inside of our fence.
Turns out that they didn't seal the gate operator box correctly and some water damage must have occurred, because upon putting the gate doors back up one of the doors did not operate. The contractor told me that it was likely the circuit board and that they would replace it at their cost (he told me it was roughly a $700 board). Several days later he comes out with a new board but that doesn't fix the problem. Upon inspection of the gate arm, the contractor told me that there is also electrical damage to the actuator. I receive a call from the manager of the gate repair company a few days later and am told that we will basically need to replace the entire right door gate operator to the tune of $3500. The manager implied that I should bear this cost. I explained to him that the gate functioned before they did the repairs and that I believed they should be responsible, since it was their error to not seal the operator box correctly. The manager stated that "there is no evidence we caused this problem and who knows if this part was operating correctly prior to our repair" and said that he would have to talk with his supervisor to see if they could cover it. I didn't get a chance to ask them if they carried insurance for this type of thing, but I will address it the next time I speak with them. The gate was opening and closing just fine before they got there and their contract even mentioned a week ago that he suspected he didn't seal the operator box correctly.
Am I going to be screwed if they refuse to pay for this? It sounds like if they fight me on it I may have to take them to small claims court, which would be a new experience for me.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.
What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?
Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?
Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.
Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.
A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.
Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.
$55 for a box of cat6 sounds like CCA pricing. Decent cat6 is over $100 a box.
Unless you have some awesome source of pure copper cat6.
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
The red circle is where any sane person would normally put the downspout, designed to drain onto the driveway.
If you were desperate for another option, you could run a pipe over where the lime green is and connect that length of guttering to the downspout which is going to be there, but that's not going to look very good.
The red circle is where any sane person would normally put the downspout, designed to drain onto the driveway.
If you were desperate for another option, you could run a pipe over where the lime green is and connect that length of guttering to the downspout which is going to be there, but that's not going to look very good.
Yeah, red's where they're gonna put it. I was just worried about damage to the walkway because of the water from it, but I guess that's not an issue I need to worry about.
Edit: I guess my wording wasn't very clear in my original post, my bad.
Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.
It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk
Couldn't they run a piece across the front of the door arch there and down the left post? Seems like the better way to then let it drain into that gravel field.
*edit* Was a page behind, Chris nailed what I was suggesting with his green box. I don't think it'd look that bad (especially if the gutter is white to match the other trim).
Bullhead on
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.
It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk
Couldn't they run a piece across the front of the door arch there and down the left post? Seems like the better way to then let it drain into that gravel field.
*edit* Was a page behind, Chris nailed what I was suggesting with his green box. I don't think it'd look that bad (especially if the gutter is white to match the other trim).
A length of pipe there to connect the guttering up would have to have a "fall" (5-10 degrees downslope to encourage water flow) built into it, so there would be a piece of pipe fitted to the portico there that was slightly but obviously not level.
Perhaps I just have an eye for that kind of thing, but it would be very visually jarring to me.
To be perfectly honest, I don't understand why the builders didn't design that section of the roof to just be the same height as the part behind it, cantilever the little porch section, and not have that vertical column or the intermediate step down in the roof to the garage at all.
Yeah, red's where they're gonna put it. I was just worried about damage to the walkway because of the water from it, but I guess that's not an issue I need to worry about.
Edit: I guess my wording wasn't very clear in my original post, my bad.
To be honest, I'd probably prefer the green solution to the red. With the location on the red your downspout will be dumping out a lot of water right in the path of potential foot traffic (either down your driveway in front of the sidewalk, or across the sidewalk into the decorative stone). I guess I just don't like the idea of having to force guests to either step into a wave of water, or jump over it risking a slip & fall on my property.
It'd be a lot more labor but they could potentially run the drain under the sidewalk; usually that's best done before the sidewalk is poured but whether it is cutting a hole or slot there may be some ways to do it post-sidewalk.
It's important to make sure it's properly flowing away and doesn't just sit and pool on the walk. But any scenario where the spout is shooting out a flow of water onto someone's ankles... is also one where water is plummeting on their heads from the sky.
The perspective is kind of screwy on the picture. It looks like the right roof is sloping down towards the door. So I initially thought a downspout would have to be put next to the stairs. That would be something you'd want to avoid, and my suggestion would also have been to possibly go the "ugly" route with bridging it over the roof on the yellow line. But if it is flat, then the red spot is the best place. And if you're still paranoid about the water, then you could get fancy with running it underground.
"The sausage of Green Earth explodes with flavor like the cannon of culinary delight."
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firewaterwordSatchitanandaPais Vasco to San FranciscoRegistered Userregular
OK so I have like a hundred "oh my god what is happening" new homeowner stories already but since we're kind of in triage mode here, I need some quick recommendations on battery powered mowers.
I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!
Lokah Samastah Sukhino Bhavantu
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
OK so I have like a hundred "oh my god what is happening" new homeowner stories already but since we're kind of in triage mode here, I need some quick recommendations on battery powered mowers.
I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!
EGO is the current popular wireless mower. There might be adapters to adapt XR batteries to the EGO connector. The Decent Battery Mowers are all expensive though.
If you ever want to figure out just how not square or plumb a room is, try installing beadboard on the walls. I seriously considered arson as an alternative about halfway through the job. It looks great, but it seriously took me four days to do a 30' x 11' rectangle room. And there are still two spots where I just said to hell with it and the lines are a bit diagonal. Never again.
OK so I have like a hundred "oh my god what is happening" new homeowner stories already but since we're kind of in triage mode here, I need some quick recommendations on battery powered mowers.
I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!
EGO is the current popular wireless mower. There might be adapters to adapt XR batteries to the EGO connector. The Decent Battery Mowers are all expensive though.
If you ever want to figure out just how not square or plumb a room is, try installing beadboard on the walls. I seriously considered arson as an alternative about halfway through the job. It looks great, but it seriously took me four days to do a 30' x 11' rectangle room. And there are still two spots where I just said to hell with it and the lines are a bit diagonal. Never again.
Try crown molding. Used probably twice the amount I should have.
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firewaterwordSatchitanandaPais Vasco to San FranciscoRegistered Userregular
OK so I have like a hundred "oh my god what is happening" new homeowner stories already but since we're kind of in triage mode here, I need some quick recommendations on battery powered mowers.
I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!
EGO is the current popular wireless mower. There might be adapters to adapt XR batteries to the EGO connector. The Decent Battery Mowers are all expensive though.
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Take pictures, so you know what things look like inside the walls in a few years if you need to make changes.
Hopefully it is not "murder me" priced
A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.
Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.
Well, not every run needs to be Cat7 - the cameras definitely can be Cat6 or even 5e. But if I was having my house run today, I'd have the backbone runs done in Cat7 just for futureproofing.
Edit: But yes, running wire for surround sound is worth it as well. I'd have it set for 5.1 at least, and preferably either 5.1.2 or 7.1.
Honestly, I don't think it's that bad to run Cat6 or Cat6A now. It'll be good for the foreseeable future, and if it comes time that you actually need to replace it, replacing the cables is waaaay less of a hassle than running new cable.
External sockets and lights. Think about everywhere you might want to plug in a lawn mower or whatever, and where you want external lighting.
As others have said, get it wired for Ethernet. I had an opportunity to do this with a house reno and didn't as the contractor was pro doing wireless everything which has been a mistake.
We redid our basement over the winter and I framed our air distribution in with 2x3 that I put a non-stop drop ceiling around.
Just running the 2x3 frame and tying it into our existing joists - to say nothing of the noise absorbent ceiling - has cut the squeaks and creaks down by an incredible amount and firmed up our whole house.
Not going to do much for new construction, but the more things solidly tied together the quieter and stronger things will be.
Granted, local building codes might have you doing hurricane ties or weird earthquake resistant stuff anyway.
This is a great idea and I am stupid for not thinking of it.
The house me and Bulgarian girl bought recently is, like everything in Sydney, pre-everything in it's build. Last weekend we finally got around to filling in all the old ventilation holes in the bricks.
What a difference. Even the relatively leaky basement now is actually way warmer, and the air conditioner is not working full power the whole time. My overall mood has improved a lot too - turns out when your constantly feeling a chill everywhere in your house, it's kind of miserable!
We need our fence repaired (well, at this point entirely replaced tbh) and the best contractor here is flat out of wood. Like they build their own panels (because they're hurricane rated which actually isn't as absurd as you'd think in the upper midwest) but despite buying up everything they could from their suppliers at the start of the pandemic? With the windstorms in the last couple of months they're literally out of wood.
Which means the only thing we can go with is vinyl and ok great it's way less maintenance which I'm a fan of but it's also much more expensive.
The good news is if we can afford it the fence has a 50 year warranty (that transfers to new owners if the house is sold within 10 years) but the bad news is we're probably looking at between 7-8k to have them replace our fence and with all of the other expenses my roommates have dealt with recently I don't know if that's in the cards. I'm thinking we may end up having to go buy some stainless steel rods and chicken wire so that we can at least patch the fence enough that the dog can be let out without needing supervision.
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It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk
You'd drill a hole through a concrete and have a drainage pipe run underneath the walk and gravel and drain into the lawn somewhere. I'm surprised they aren't having the downspout on the corner next to the garage door.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
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The "best" option is to run a PVC drain under the walk, but that would require breaking up the walk or at least cutting a channel in it. Letting it drain over the walk is the cheaper and arguably more practical option.
You could try directing the downspout to spill down the driveway instead but that's up to you if it's a better option.
The driveway goes down into my house from the street, so if it was there, it would just pool in the little dip the driveway makes before coming back up into my house. Which is another thing I need to address at some point. I dunno how much it costs to get a drain across a driveway, hopefully not too much.
Yeah, that'd probably be a good option. If I ever have someone out to do a drain across my driveway, that'd probably be something I'd have them look at while they're at it. Might be kinda sketchy cause I think there's some yard sprinkler pipe somewhere in that gravel, too, though.
$55 for a box of cat6 sounds like CCA pricing. Decent cat6 is over $100 a box.
Unless you have some awesome source of pure copper cat6.
Yeah, you want a spool of something like this:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8103
We hired a gate repair company to fix the issue. They offered us two options: install brace posts or redo the posts of the gate entirely. We went with the latter options. It was pricey, but would maintain the original look of the backyard and the gate. The repair was schedule to be done on two different days. One day one they would take out the old gate posts and dig new holes, put in new concrete with new posts, and let the concrete set. After the concrete set for about a week they came back and hooked up the two doors, which had been left leaning against the inside of our fence.
Turns out that they didn't seal the gate operator box correctly and some water damage must have occurred, because upon putting the gate doors back up one of the doors did not operate. The contractor told me that it was likely the circuit board and that they would replace it at their cost (he told me it was roughly a $700 board). Several days later he comes out with a new board but that doesn't fix the problem. Upon inspection of the gate arm, the contractor told me that there is also electrical damage to the actuator. I receive a call from the manager of the gate repair company a few days later and am told that we will basically need to replace the entire right door gate operator to the tune of $3500. The manager implied that I should bear this cost. I explained to him that the gate functioned before they did the repairs and that I believed they should be responsible, since it was their error to not seal the operator box correctly. The manager stated that "there is no evidence we caused this problem and who knows if this part was operating correctly prior to our repair" and said that he would have to talk with his supervisor to see if they could cover it. I didn't get a chance to ask them if they carried insurance for this type of thing, but I will address it the next time I speak with them. The gate was opening and closing just fine before they got there and their contract even mentioned a week ago that he suspected he didn't seal the operator box correctly.
Am I going to be screwed if they refuse to pay for this? It sounds like if they fight me on it I may have to take them to small claims court, which would be a new experience for me.
We're both looking at the same thing. I was just checking the 500' spools.
If you were desperate for another option, you could run a pipe over where the lime green is and connect that length of guttering to the downspout which is going to be there, but that's not going to look very good.
Yeah, red's where they're gonna put it. I was just worried about damage to the walkway because of the water from it, but I guess that's not an issue I need to worry about.
Edit: I guess my wording wasn't very clear in my original post, my bad.
Couldn't they run a piece across the front of the door arch there and down the left post? Seems like the better way to then let it drain into that gravel field.
*edit* Was a page behind, Chris nailed what I was suggesting with his green box. I don't think it'd look that bad (especially if the gutter is white to match the other trim).
A length of pipe there to connect the guttering up would have to have a "fall" (5-10 degrees downslope to encourage water flow) built into it, so there would be a piece of pipe fitted to the portico there that was slightly but obviously not level.
Perhaps I just have an eye for that kind of thing, but it would be very visually jarring to me.
To be perfectly honest, I don't understand why the builders didn't design that section of the roof to just be the same height as the part behind it, cantilever the little porch section, and not have that vertical column or the intermediate step down in the roof to the garage at all.
To be honest, I'd probably prefer the green solution to the red. With the location on the red your downspout will be dumping out a lot of water right in the path of potential foot traffic (either down your driveway in front of the sidewalk, or across the sidewalk into the decorative stone). I guess I just don't like the idea of having to force guests to either step into a wave of water, or jump over it risking a slip & fall on my property.
The perspective is kind of screwy on the picture. It looks like the right roof is sloping down towards the door. So I initially thought a downspout would have to be put next to the stairs. That would be something you'd want to avoid, and my suggestion would also have been to possibly go the "ugly" route with bridging it over the roof on the yellow line. But if it is flat, then the red spot is the best place. And if you're still paranoid about the water, then you could get fancy with running it underground.
I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!
EGO is the current popular wireless mower. There might be adapters to adapt XR batteries to the EGO connector. The Decent Battery Mowers are all expensive though.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Here's a current deal (Greenworks):
https://slickdeals.net/f/14235557-greenworks-glm801601-21-inch-80v-cordless-push-lawn-mower-includes-two-2ah-batteries-and-charger-379
Try crown molding. Used probably twice the amount I should have.
Yep, that's the one I ended up going with. Maybe a bit more than I need but sales.