StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Did my first test of using oil paints thinned with white spirits to create a wash. It went poorly, I have 3 colors on 1 wing of this test model and the first wash moved into the other colors. I was trying to do a darker version of the color as a wash so it kind of messed it all up. Flows just like a pin wash though so I at least got that right.
Also slightly paranoid about the white spirits, I was using a syringe, but like those ones for delivering medicine by mouth to children. It ended up splashing and I'm hoping it didn't land on my brushes I use for painting and ruin them. I bought a set of cheap throw away brushes for the oil paints.
Need to find a way to make this work though. I want to paint these Corvus Cabal on tropical bird style.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Can I just send you all my plastic and you can paint it like Ultramarines for me DocSamson? Great, thanks, it's on it's way.
Seriously, as a fellow UM painter/player, that's great stuff. I aspire to a place where my smurfs look that good.
I appreciate it! I have gotten a few comments on my ultras about how much people like the blue and it makes me feel a bit guilty, because it’s just Macragge blue with a Calgar blue highlight. Right out of the Duncan videos. And having that blue in a rattle can just makes life so much easier, I feel for all those armies that don’t get that easy first step.
But I just used like half a $35 can of retributor gold on a custodes tank and it’s making me think an airbrush is actually going to save me money in the long run. These damn cans add up.
Yeah, I airbrush base all mine with Macragge. My base blue looks similar, I was more commenting on the rest of the model. Nice edge highlighting, nice crisp gold. The shading of the blue is really nice.
Really it's the cost of retributor gold and doing larger items is why I want to get an airbrush as doing the Masque of the Veiled Path skyweavers was annoying with the number of coats and sanding I had to do to get it smooth and with a layer paint
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I wish I had the patience for pristine edge highlights on power armor.
I absolutely do not have that kind of patience
Apparently you can get very quick at it once you have the technique down. On my next model I'm going to try Duncan's technique, which is always rotating the model such that you are pulling the highlight down and towards you. I figure I'm never going to get good at it unless I do it. Still not to the point where I want to do it on mass infantry, but for characters I'm going to push out of my comfort zone and try and get good at it.
I wish I had the patience for pristine edge highlights on power armor.
I absolutely do not have that kind of patience
Apparently you can get very quick at it once you have the technique down. On my next model I'm going to try Duncan's technique, which is always rotating the model such that you are pulling the highlight down and towards you. I figure I'm never going to get good at it unless I do it. Still not to the point where I want to do it on mass infantry, but for characters I'm going to push out of my comfort zone and try and get good at it.
This I can see doing.... getting good and spending the extra time on a handful of important models.
I guess it seems weird because you always see this technique being done on warhammer TV on basic line troops.
I wish I had the patience for pristine edge highlights on power armor.
I absolutely do not have that kind of patience
Apparently you can get very quick at it once you have the technique down. On my next model I'm going to try Duncan's technique, which is always rotating the model such that you are pulling the highlight down and towards you. I figure I'm never going to get good at it unless I do it. Still not to the point where I want to do it on mass infantry, but for characters I'm going to push out of my comfort zone and try and get good at it.
This I can see doing.... getting good and spending the extra time on a handful of important models.
I guess it seems weird because you always see this technique being done on warhammer TV on basic line troops.
Well it is worth practicing on the basic line troops as they seem so lame when you spend all the time on the elites and commanders
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited August 2020
Dunked the airbrush's nozzle and body in the mix today, making sure the body wasn't submerged to the compressor screw part.
Also, I think I've identified it as an older Badger 150. The body does say "BADGER AIR BRUSH" but there's no model number on it or anything else I have. But I'm watching an old Badger informational video and the guy's got a 150 that's a spitting image of this one, even down to the included air hose.
EDIT: Okay, this is interesting. With the handle guard taken off, it looks like the button doesn't actually pull the needle back at all until the last 20% of its travel. All the airbrush videos I've been watching show some kind of lever behind the button but mine doesn't seem to have one? I'll see tomorrow if that's the big obstacle in getting this working again.
Ianator on
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Never done it, but I have some stripped minis that I could practice on first.
I'd also have to get some primer that's brushable, any recommendations?
gt: Bobby2Socks | steam: Billy Boot-Snatcher
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Vallejo Surface Primer. The self levelling formula makes it fantastic to brush on.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Edge highlighting is one of those things that seems scary and tedious and is at first. But once you nut up and start doing it it gets easier. It's probably one of my favorite things nowadays.
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited August 2020
Keen, do you have a recommendation on particular brushes, or the qualities desired in a brush, for edge highlighting? I've been bouncing around a bunch of my brushes for the task, and I don't know which to settle on.
Nips on
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited August 2020
Anyone have good tones to use to paint Black flesh? Preferably something I can buy in dropper bottles because I don't need specific Citadel color matches.
I'm my head canon my Chief LIbrarian Tigurius is going to be Black, so this will be my first time trying to paint darker skin tones. Any suggestions/tips welcome. I normally don't do non-helmeted Space Marines because I'm bad at painting skin but I have no choice with Tiggy.
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Gedies and lantlemen, we have a pulse!
...Sort of!
After this morning's misadventures (including bringing home the totally wrong adapters from Lowe's) this airbrush has, uh, airbrushed for the first time in what must be two decades. No paint yet, just spraying water to get a feel for things.
Now for the hard fact: my above assessment regarding the trigger seems to be spot on. It won't dispense from the cup without me pulling back all the way on the trigger, and then it seems to only spray in a wide pattern. I've got a second nozzle to try out but I anticipate the results won't be that different. I might have to contact Badger and see if they have any legacy parts - this thing's older than I thought.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
After this morning's misadventures (including bringing home the totally wrong adapters from Lowe's) this airbrush has, uh, airbrushed for the first time in what must be two decades. No paint yet, just spraying water to get a feel for things.
Now for the hard fact: my above assessment regarding the trigger seems to be spot on. It won't dispense from the cup without me pulling back all the way on the trigger, and then it seems to only spray in a wide pattern. I've got a second nozzle to try out but I anticipate the results won't be that different. I might have to contact Badger and see if they have any legacy parts - this thing's older than I thought.
Here's the manual for what might be your airbrush. Their site is really good for finding instruction manuals and part numbers for stuff that might be missing. Not all of the replacement parts will be easy to find, and if you have to pull back all the way to get any spray, something is off in the trigger area, look at part number 50-042 on page 5 to make sure that's there. And/or all the other parts are there too.
Purchased and built my first Creature Caster model, a Lord of Slaughter.
WOW is this ever an awesome looking model. The detail is fantastic.
That said, what a pain compared to plastic. Does anyone have a recommendation on products to fill gaps with? The overall look is amazing, but man are there ever a lot of gaps to fill, even with some trimming and fiddling.
Purchased and built my first Creature Caster model, a Lord of Slaughter.
WOW is this ever an awesome looking model. The detail is fantastic.
That said, what a pain compared to plastic. Does anyone have a recommendation on products to fill gaps with? The overall look is amazing, but man are there ever a lot of gaps to fill, even with some trimming and fiddling.
I've been using Vallejo Plastic Putty for small holes or seams, to reasonably good success.
I know everyone shits on Citadel Liquid Greenstuff, but I've found it to be usable as well. It's not sandable like VPP, but has it's own utility.
Note that both will shrink (LGS more than VPP from my experience) , which is most noticable on very large (> 1 mm) gaps and may require repeat applications.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
After this morning's misadventures (including bringing home the totally wrong adapters from Lowe's) this airbrush has, uh, airbrushed for the first time in what must be two decades. No paint yet, just spraying water to get a feel for things.
Now for the hard fact: my above assessment regarding the trigger seems to be spot on. It won't dispense from the cup without me pulling back all the way on the trigger, and then it seems to only spray in a wide pattern. I've got a second nozzle to try out but I anticipate the results won't be that different. I might have to contact Badger and see if they have any legacy parts - this thing's older than I thought.
Here's the manual for what might be your airbrush. Their site is really good for finding instruction manuals and part numbers for stuff that might be missing. Not all of the replacement parts will be easy to find, and if you have to pull back all the way to get any spray, something is off in the trigger area, look at part number 50-042 on page 5 to make sure that's there. And/or all the other parts are there too.
Already found that manual earlier, though I appreciate there being a link in here now. This model of airbrush doesn't seem to have that perpendicular T-slot behind the trigger but it's absolutely the back lever that's missing.
EDIT: Played around with spraying water a bit more. I changed to the other nozzle but it only sprays when I give the trigger little to zero pull. Then when I changed back to the first nozzle it started gargling the cup with zero trigger pull even when the head was finger tight.
Ianator on
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
I smell porkchops?
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Decided to put a bit of paint through the airbrush a few minutes ago!
...It could've gone better?
For one, I tested it out on a bare 30MM runner, no primer. For another, I must've thinned my paint (Formula P3 white) way too much with water (no acrylic thinner on hand, don't want to risk the acetone). The result was basically spraying skim milk onto a plastic frame, running off of surfaces and into crevices.
Afterwards I sprayed another two cups' worth of water to flush it out. I must not have gotten everything though because the needle had a teeny tiny dollop of white paint when I pulled it out. Not gonna mess with it again until I get some proper thinner.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
The needle tip is always gonna have that paint buildup; it’s one of the main things to look for if the spray pattern starts to get weird. I keep a cotton bud an pd isopropyl alcohol handy for cleaning that mid-session.
Don’t use acetone as an acrylic paint thinner, please; ignoring that it will badly affect plastic surfaces you spray it on, acetone vapour is both toxic and hilariously flammable.
Decided to put a bit of paint through the airbrush a few minutes ago!
...It could've gone better?
For one, I tested it out on a bare 30MM runner, no primer. For another, I must've thinned my paint (Formula P3 white) way too much with water (no acrylic thinner on hand, don't want to risk the acetone). The result was basically spraying skim milk onto a plastic frame, running off of surfaces and into crevices.
Afterwards I sprayed another two cups' worth of water to flush it out. I must not have gotten everything though because the needle had a teeny tiny dollop of white paint when I pulled it out. Not gonna mess with it again until I get some proper thinner.
Nah thinning with water is fine. The difference between water and thinner is minimal when it comes to just mucking about at learning. Most thinner jsut disrupts surface tension a bit and so makes your paint less likely to bead. It does sound like you over thinned. It can be hard to put P3 paints through an airbrush as they tend to be a bit pigment heavy in my experience.
Check out some videos by Angel Giraldez. He is wizard with the airbrush and has a bunch of tutorials on how to use it, including some very basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elF3Ml6qmVs
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited August 2020
Got a cutting question this time.
For-fabric cutting mats, self-healing. Suitable for plastic modeling? Y/N
Ianator on
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
For-fabric cutting mats, self-healing. Suitable for plastic modeling? Y/N
Like, the green self-healing craft mats? As in, the cutting and gluing of plastic parts, a la gunpla or multi-part plastics like GW?
Absolutely, totally suitable and useable. Doing it all the time nowadays. Just be careful not to glue or solvent-bond a part to the mat itself, and you'll be good.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
For-fabric cutting mats, self-healing. Suitable for plastic modeling? Y/N
Like, the green self-healing craft mats? As in, the cutting and gluing of plastic parts, a la gunpla or multi-part plastics like GW?
Absolutely, totally suitable and useable. Doing it all the time nowadays. Just be careful not to glue or solvent-bond a part to the mat itself, and you'll be good.
Specifically not the green ones. Rather, clear ones used in the fabric section of Walmart or something.
...Not that it's relevant for me anymore since I just grabbed an Army Painter mat (green, yes) on the way out of Battletech this afternoon.
EDIT: Also, took another stab at the airbrush today. First my paint was gargling violently and none was spraying out until I rinsed it off and went, "Tighten the needle chuck, doobert." Second attempt was productive, successfully delivering a nice coat of P3 white paint atop a spare sprue, spray-primed gray with the last ounce in a years-old rattle can.
Ianator on
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Just wondering, how do you folks do effects like rust? Citadel has a preferred way with 2 different paints, first you add Typhus Corrosion and then put Ryza Rust over it, but I'm sure theres a better way to do it.
Just wondering, how do you folks do effects like rust? Citadel has a preferred way with 2 different paints, first you add Typhus Corrosion and then put Ryza Rust over it, but I'm sure theres a better way to do it.
Mm depends on how severe you want it. The way you describe is good for more texture but you can also do something like rhinox hide a shape into the side or edge of something and then outline it with a couple shades brighter than the color surrounding your brown area.
I do orange paint, then some brown, then drybrush metal, then wash the whole thing super heavy agrax earthshade
I made a little vid about it if you want some more details: https://youtu.be/L64JcerCAaE
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Blue skies, dry air... What a wonderful day to experiment!
Got a 6-bottles-for-$10 pack of acrylic paint from Walmart to play around with. Today's plan was to fill my brush's bottle with turquoise blue and test it on sprue after another coat of primer. Noticed some spattering and decided to capture it on this card backing. Also saw that the spray itself seemed to be pulsing regardless of PSI or trigger pressure.
What did Ian do wrong here?
A: Cheaped out on paint
B: Improper mixing proportions and/or process
C: Wrong compressor PSI Didn't get a damn tank
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
If it's pulsing, I'm leaning toward D being the culprit.
Bladeguard take longer to paint than anything else in this army but boy howdy do I like how they look when finished. It makes me want a whole bunch although I don't want to do the actual painting.
Also real happy Terminators are good with the new book/9th edition, I love these dang models. Can't wait to add some Aquilon Termies as well.
+19
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited August 2020
At Home Depot and feeling a bit overwhelmed. They don't have tanks a la carte and I'm not sure whether a 1gal cordless Ryobi compressor or some other 6gal pancake is a purchase I'm going to regret.
EDIT: 8gal Husky looks like the best candidate in my price range.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Hokay so good news and bad news
Good news is this compressor does its job very well.
Bad news is it spooks the shit out of me when it refills itself.
Actual bad news is it hasn't solved my pulsing troubles. It does this when and after I use the siphon bottle, which means I need to give the feeder tube a good cleaning... and likely thin my paints just a bit more.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
TBH, like 90% of gitting gud at airbrushing is following tutorials and then getting mad when yours totally doesn't behave the same way (Inset simpsons "Why doesn't mine look like that" meme). I learned how to airbrush for a multi Golden Daemon winner who is also a professional model maker and even then it took me ages of just trying and failing to be able to get it to behave and work on demand.
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
I would suggest that option A may be in play then; cheaper (car body or grade school) paint is that way because the pigment grain isn’t nearly as fine as in artist’s or model-maker’s paint so can block or lock up a small gauge nozzle more easily. Adding a flow improver to reduce the surface tension may help more than thinning alone in that case.
Posts
Also slightly paranoid about the white spirits, I was using a syringe, but like those ones for delivering medicine by mouth to children. It ended up splashing and I'm hoping it didn't land on my brushes I use for painting and ruin them. I bought a set of cheap throw away brushes for the oil paints.
Need to find a way to make this work though. I want to paint these Corvus Cabal on tropical bird style.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yeah, I airbrush base all mine with Macragge. My base blue looks similar, I was more commenting on the rest of the model. Nice edge highlighting, nice crisp gold. The shading of the blue is really nice.
I absolutely do not have that kind of patience
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Apparently you can get very quick at it once you have the technique down. On my next model I'm going to try Duncan's technique, which is always rotating the model such that you are pulling the highlight down and towards you. I figure I'm never going to get good at it unless I do it. Still not to the point where I want to do it on mass infantry, but for characters I'm going to push out of my comfort zone and try and get good at it.
This I can see doing.... getting good and spending the extra time on a handful of important models.
I guess it seems weird because you always see this technique being done on warhammer TV on basic line troops.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Well it is worth practicing on the basic line troops as they seem so lame when you spend all the time on the elites and commanders
Also, I think I've identified it as an older Badger 150. The body does say "BADGER AIR BRUSH" but there's no model number on it or anything else I have. But I'm watching an old Badger informational video and the guy's got a 150 that's a spitting image of this one, even down to the included air hose.
EDIT: Okay, this is interesting. With the handle guard taken off, it looks like the button doesn't actually pull the needle back at all until the last 20% of its travel. All the airbrush videos I've been watching show some kind of lever behind the button but mine doesn't seem to have one? I'll see tomorrow if that's the big obstacle in getting this working again.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
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(I need one)
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
I'd also have to get some primer that's brushable, any recommendations?
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I'm my head canon my Chief LIbrarian Tigurius is going to be Black, so this will be my first time trying to paint darker skin tones. Any suggestions/tips welcome. I normally don't do non-helmeted Space Marines because I'm bad at painting skin but I have no choice with Tiggy.
...Sort of!
After this morning's misadventures (including bringing home the totally wrong adapters from Lowe's) this airbrush has, uh, airbrushed for the first time in what must be two decades. No paint yet, just spraying water to get a feel for things.
Now for the hard fact: my above assessment regarding the trigger seems to be spot on. It won't dispense from the cup without me pulling back all the way on the trigger, and then it seems to only spray in a wide pattern. I've got a second nozzle to try out but I anticipate the results won't be that different. I might have to contact Badger and see if they have any legacy parts - this thing's older than I thought.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Here's the manual for what might be your airbrush. Their site is really good for finding instruction manuals and part numbers for stuff that might be missing. Not all of the replacement parts will be easy to find, and if you have to pull back all the way to get any spray, something is off in the trigger area, look at part number 50-042 on page 5 to make sure that's there. And/or all the other parts are there too.
WOW is this ever an awesome looking model. The detail is fantastic.
That said, what a pain compared to plastic. Does anyone have a recommendation on products to fill gaps with? The overall look is amazing, but man are there ever a lot of gaps to fill, even with some trimming and fiddling.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I've been using Vallejo Plastic Putty for small holes or seams, to reasonably good success.
I know everyone shits on Citadel Liquid Greenstuff, but I've found it to be usable as well. It's not sandable like VPP, but has it's own utility.
Note that both will shrink (LGS more than VPP from my experience) , which is most noticable on very large (> 1 mm) gaps and may require repeat applications.
Already found that manual earlier, though I appreciate there being a link in here now. This model of airbrush doesn't seem to have that perpendicular T-slot behind the trigger but it's absolutely the back lever that's missing.
EDIT: Played around with spraying water a bit more. I changed to the other nozzle but it only sprays when I give the trigger little to zero pull. Then when I changed back to the first nozzle it started gargling the cup with zero trigger pull even when the head was finger tight.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
PSN- AHermano
...It could've gone better?
For one, I tested it out on a bare 30MM runner, no primer. For another, I must've thinned my paint (Formula P3 white) way too much with water (no acrylic thinner on hand, don't want to risk the acetone). The result was basically spraying skim milk onto a plastic frame, running off of surfaces and into crevices.
Afterwards I sprayed another two cups' worth of water to flush it out. I must not have gotten everything though because the needle had a teeny tiny dollop of white paint when I pulled it out. Not gonna mess with it again until I get some proper thinner.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Don’t use acetone as an acrylic paint thinner, please; ignoring that it will badly affect plastic surfaces you spray it on, acetone vapour is both toxic and hilariously flammable.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Nah thinning with water is fine. The difference between water and thinner is minimal when it comes to just mucking about at learning. Most thinner jsut disrupts surface tension a bit and so makes your paint less likely to bead. It does sound like you over thinned. It can be hard to put P3 paints through an airbrush as they tend to be a bit pigment heavy in my experience.
Check out some videos by Angel Giraldez. He is wizard with the airbrush and has a bunch of tutorials on how to use it, including some very basics:
For-fabric cutting mats, self-healing. Suitable for plastic modeling? Y/N
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Like, the green self-healing craft mats? As in, the cutting and gluing of plastic parts, a la gunpla or multi-part plastics like GW?
Absolutely, totally suitable and useable. Doing it all the time nowadays. Just be careful not to glue or solvent-bond a part to the mat itself, and you'll be good.
Specifically not the green ones. Rather, clear ones used in the fabric section of Walmart or something.
...Not that it's relevant for me anymore since I just grabbed an Army Painter mat (green, yes) on the way out of Battletech this afternoon.
EDIT: Also, took another stab at the airbrush today. First my paint was gargling violently and none was spraying out until I rinsed it off and went, "Tighten the needle chuck, doobert." Second attempt was productive, successfully delivering a nice coat of P3 white paint atop a spare sprue, spray-primed gray with the last ounce in a years-old rattle can.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Mm depends on how severe you want it. The way you describe is good for more texture but you can also do something like rhinox hide a shape into the side or edge of something and then outline it with a couple shades brighter than the color surrounding your brown area.
I made a little vid about it if you want some more details:
Got a 6-bottles-for-$10 pack of acrylic paint from Walmart to play around with. Today's plan was to fill my brush's bottle with turquoise blue and test it on sprue after another coat of primer. Noticed some spattering and decided to capture it on this card backing. Also saw that the spray itself seemed to be pulsing regardless of PSI or trigger pressure.
What did Ian do wrong here?
A: Cheaped out on paint
B: Improper mixing proportions and/or process
C: Wrong compressor PSI
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Also real happy Terminators are good with the new book/9th edition, I love these dang models. Can't wait to add some Aquilon Termies as well.
EDIT: 8gal Husky looks like the best candidate in my price range.
EDIT 2: Well I guess I have a new compressor now
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Good news is this compressor does its job very well.
Bad news is it spooks the shit out of me when it refills itself.
Actual bad news is it hasn't solved my pulsing troubles. It does this when and after I use the siphon bottle, which means I need to give the feeder tube a good cleaning... and likely thin my paints just a bit more.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.