Good news! I got an offer accepted on a great house!
Bad news! I paid 10% over asking!
Good news! The sellers had counter offered 15% over asking and I said no, goodbye, and they called back 10 minutes later at 10% over, so at least it wasn’t 15%!
Bad news! The buying agent repeatedly said the home inspection would be $500, and then after it finished with the guy he personally recommends, it was $745!
I’m hoping to get fleeced by the mortgage lender as soon as tomorrow.
I forget where you live, but if you are on the east coast the Mortgage broker I used was very good, and most importantly super responsive. Shoot me a PM if you want his contact info. He’s licensed in the DMV Jersey Florida Pa both Carolinas and Delaware.
Unfortunately not licensed in my state.
I’m pretty worried now it’s not going to appraise. We had to waive the appraisal contingency! No one acted like it was a big deal and everyone continues to do so! I don’t see how it could possibly appraise for 7.5% over asking! I think my agent and girlfriend combined to pressure me into overpaying by 20k without an appraisal contingency to get out of it!
Seriously considering backing out and eating 3k instead of possibly not getting appraised and being stuck for 30k if I have to walk then.
I don’t know if I’m catastrophizing or what but I’m pretty pissed to have gotten myself in this situation and secondarily pissed our agent led us into it without acting like it was risky. What would have happened if I listened to him and offered the higher amount??
End vent/rant
Check the comps for the property, that's what the appraiser is going to do.
Jengo on
3DS FC: 1977-1274-3558 Pokemon X ingame name: S3xy Vexy
Man, mowing 3 foot tall weeds on a hill with a slope greater than 45 degrees is kind of the worst. Also, mowing the weeds has uncovered some erosion channels that I'll need to fill in eventually. Right now I'm debating whether I want to clean up all the weeds and rocks in my yard, fill in all the dirt that's been eroded, landscape it properly, till it, and then seed it, or if I wanna just hire someone else to do that for me >.>
That... sounds like a good place for a 'wildflower' feature?
Good news! I got an offer accepted on a great house!
Bad news! I paid 10% over asking!
Good news! The sellers had counter offered 15% over asking and I said no, goodbye, and they called back 10 minutes later at 10% over, so at least it wasn’t 15%!
Bad news! The buying agent repeatedly said the home inspection would be $500, and then after it finished with the guy he personally recommends, it was $745!
I’m hoping to get fleeced by the mortgage lender as soon as tomorrow.
I forget where you live, but if you are on the east coast the Mortgage broker I used was very good, and most importantly super responsive. Shoot me a PM if you want his contact info. He’s licensed in the DMV Jersey Florida Pa both Carolinas and Delaware.
Unfortunately not licensed in my state.
I’m pretty worried now it’s not going to appraise. We had to waive the appraisal contingency! No one acted like it was a big deal and everyone continues to do so! I don’t see how it could possibly appraise for 7.5% over asking! I think my agent and girlfriend combined to pressure me into overpaying by 20k without an appraisal contingency to get out of it!
Seriously considering backing out and eating 3k instead of possibly not getting appraised and being stuck for 30k if I have to walk then.
I don’t know if I’m catastrophizing or what but I’m pretty pissed to have gotten myself in this situation and secondarily pissed our agent led us into it without acting like it was risky. What would have happened if I listened to him and offered the higher amount??
End vent/rant
Check the comps for the property, that's what the appraiser is going to do.
Also the appraiser is mostly looking for gross malfeasance. Like a property that is selling for double everything in the area. There’s just no way to be super accurate with the evaluation, so most of the time, as long as comps are with 10-20%, they just appraise it at the sales price.
Over or under asking doesn’t really mean anything, since people play weird games with listing prices.
"The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
Man, mowing 3 foot tall weeds on a hill with a slope greater than 45 degrees is kind of the worst. Also, mowing the weeds has uncovered some erosion channels that I'll need to fill in eventually. Right now I'm debating whether I want to clean up all the weeds and rocks in my yard, fill in all the dirt that's been eroded, landscape it properly, till it, and then seed it, or if I wanna just hire someone else to do that for me >.>
That... sounds like a good place for a 'wildflower' feature?
Yeah, probably. Eventually I'd like a retaining wall, but that's $$$$
What are your guys actual interest rates, if you don’t mind my asking. Shaving off 2% is crazy high.
4.5 to 2.5
I'm not sure why our original loan was 4.5. Both my wife and I have excellent credit and good, steady, long-term jobs. With the sale of our previous house, we even had a sizable down payment, too, and we went with a 20 year loan.
Maybe loan rates were crazy 2 years ago. I don't recall.
What are your guys actual interest rates, if you don’t mind my asking. Shaving off 2% is crazy high.
4.5 to 2.5
I'm not sure why our original loan was 4.5. Both my wife and I have excellent credit and good, steady, long-term jobs. With the sale of our previous house, we even had a sizable down payment, too, and we went with a 20 year loan.
Maybe loan rates were crazy 2 years ago. I don't recall.
They were. My loan is in the 4.x range as well, because rates were pretty high at the time. With them falling off a cliff, I need to look into refinancing.
What are your guys actual interest rates, if you don’t mind my asking. Shaving off 2% is crazy high.
4.5 to 2.5
I'm not sure why our original loan was 4.5. Both my wife and I have excellent credit and good, steady, long-term jobs. With the sale of our previous house, we even had a sizable down payment, too, and we went with a 20 year loan.
Maybe loan rates were crazy 2 years ago. I don't recall.
They were. My loan is in the 4.x range as well, because rates were pretty high at the time. With them falling off a cliff, I need to look into refinancing.
I also have a 4.5 rate... 2 years ago they were all talking about how low that was, and how it was likely to go up soon! Historically that is still low, we've just been in this bizzaro world where the Fed loans money at 0% for so long it's easy to forget that these low, low interest rates aren't normal. If and when the economy ever recovers the rates will go right back up there again.
What are your guys actual interest rates, if you don’t mind my asking. Shaving off 2% is crazy high.
4.5 to 2.5
I'm not sure why our original loan was 4.5. Both my wife and I have excellent credit and good, steady, long-term jobs. With the sale of our previous house, we even had a sizable down payment, too, and we went with a 20 year loan.
Maybe loan rates were crazy 2 years ago. I don't recall.
They were. My loan is in the 4.x range as well, because rates were pretty high at the time. With them falling off a cliff, I need to look into refinancing.
Ours is as well and I'd love to refinance, but our credit has gone off a cliff the last two years so lol.
Man, I got 4.25 I think in 2014 which was pretty good, and this last November reduced it to...3.5 I think? I've mostly tried not to think if how ungodly low it would be right now because the refi was such a hassle.
The muni bond rates I track for my job basically hit their all time low again in late July, and they've just been dropping steadily since.
PSN: Kurahoshi1
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
I too have 4.25%. I might like to refi but I'm not sure the hassle and closing costs would be worth it.
In other fun news, Trump's nuking of the post office has caused my insurance payment to go missing, and my policy expires Monday. Both the bank and the insurance company responded to me with a shrug and said to call back Monday to see if the payment arrived yet. It was sent over a month ago, so I have my doubts. Pretty sure I get to pay this one out of pocket and pray that somehow, someway my escrow gets refunded and they cut me a check or something.
As an aside, I positively hate the automated voice response hedge maze you have to navigate in order to get a human being on the phone.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Good news! I got an offer accepted on a great house!
Bad news! I paid 10% over asking!
Good news! The sellers had counter offered 15% over asking and I said no, goodbye, and they called back 10 minutes later at 10% over, so at least it wasn’t 15%!
Bad news! The buying agent repeatedly said the home inspection would be $500, and then after it finished with the guy he personally recommends, it was $745!
I’m hoping to get fleeced by the mortgage lender as soon as tomorrow.
I forget where you live, but if you are on the east coast the Mortgage broker I used was very good, and most importantly super responsive. Shoot me a PM if you want his contact info. He’s licensed in the DMV Jersey Florida Pa both Carolinas and Delaware.
Unfortunately not licensed in my state.
I’m pretty worried now it’s not going to appraise. We had to waive the appraisal contingency! No one acted like it was a big deal and everyone continues to do so! I don’t see how it could possibly appraise for 7.5% over asking! I think my agent and girlfriend combined to pressure me into overpaying by 20k without an appraisal contingency to get out of it!
Seriously considering backing out and eating 3k instead of possibly not getting appraised and being stuck for 30k if I have to walk then.
I don’t know if I’m catastrophizing or what but I’m pretty pissed to have gotten myself in this situation and secondarily pissed our agent led us into it without acting like it was risky. What would have happened if I listened to him and offered the higher amount??
End vent/rant
Your on the hook for your earnest money, but check the price per square foot of houses sold in your neighborhood. And if it doesn’t appraise you can back out for the cost of your earnest money. Did you wave the inspection contingency? And can you use the inspection report to back out if you need too?
We need to replace all the smoke detectors for a 2 story house. I have no idea how much we should spend. Recommendations?
Go to the Lowes site?
* See if the existing ones are hardwired or if they just have batteries.
* For anything near a kitchen or bathroom, make sure you get a photoelectric smoke detector, not ionization. (Ionization will detect steam.)
* Make sure you have a photoelectric and ionization smoke detector on both floors. (These trigger under different circumstances, so having both around can be useful.)
And yes, get a name brand. They're not that expensive. You have options below $20/each.
We need to replace all the smoke detectors for a 2 story house. I have no idea how much we should spend. Recommendations?
Go to the Lowes site?
* See if the existing ones are hardwired or if they just have batteries.
* For anything near a kitchen or bathroom, make sure you get a photoelectric smoke detector, not ionization. (Ionization will detect steam.)
* Make sure you have a photoelectric and ionization smoke detector on both floors. (These trigger under different circumstances, so having both around can be useful.)
And yes, get a name brand. They're not that expensive. You have options below $20/each.
Also consider getting "10 year" units - these have an internal battery designed to last the service life of the detector, so that you are not needing to replace batteries twice a year.
We need to replace all the smoke detectors for a 2 story house. I have no idea how much we should spend. Recommendations?
Go to the Lowes site?
* See if the existing ones are hardwired or if they just have batteries.
* For anything near a kitchen or bathroom, make sure you get a photoelectric smoke detector, not ionization. (Ionization will detect steam.)
* Make sure you have a photoelectric and ionization smoke detector on both floors. (These trigger under different circumstances, so having both around can be useful.)
And yes, get a name brand. They're not that expensive. You have options below $20/each.
Also consider getting "10 year" units - these have an internal battery designed to last the service life of the detector, so that you are not needing to replace batteries twice a year.
Wait... are you supposed to replace smoke detectors periodically?
We need to replace all the smoke detectors for a 2 story house. I have no idea how much we should spend. Recommendations?
Go to the Lowes site?
* See if the existing ones are hardwired or if they just have batteries.
* For anything near a kitchen or bathroom, make sure you get a photoelectric smoke detector, not ionization. (Ionization will detect steam.)
* Make sure you have a photoelectric and ionization smoke detector on both floors. (These trigger under different circumstances, so having both around can be useful.)
And yes, get a name brand. They're not that expensive. You have options below $20/each.
Also consider getting "10 year" units - these have an internal battery designed to last the service life of the detector, so that you are not needing to replace batteries twice a year.
Wait... are you supposed to replace smoke detectors periodically?
Yes. Standard smoke detectors have a 5-10 year service life.
We need to replace all the smoke detectors for a 2 story house. I have no idea how much we should spend. Recommendations?
Go to the Lowes site?
* See if the existing ones are hardwired or if they just have batteries.
* For anything near a kitchen or bathroom, make sure you get a photoelectric smoke detector, not ionization. (Ionization will detect steam.)
* Make sure you have a photoelectric and ionization smoke detector on both floors. (These trigger under different circumstances, so having both around can be useful.)
And yes, get a name brand. They're not that expensive. You have options below $20/each.
Also have at least one Carbon Monoxide detector per floor and if you go for combination CO/Smoke detectors get the ones that talk (will make a tone and then say carbon monoxide or Fire/smoke) when activated
RedTide#1907 on Battle.net
Come Overwatch with meeeee
I have the nest fire/smoke/CO detectors through out my house.
I really like them and have had no issues. Plus it's fun to run a test on them when my mom is over babysitting and I'm out of the house
I did kinda mess up and put one in a hallway outside and too close to a bathroom door that my wife uses to shower in and the steam will sometimes make it chirp (not actually alarming, it thinks it has dust in it). Even though it has a setting where steam is not supposed to mess with it.
Bloodycow on
" I am a warrior, so that my son may be a merchant, so that his son may be a poet.”
― John Quincy Adams
The thermostat in our house is in a silly spot, upstairs hallway with no vents and by the stairs where all the hot air collects. It just ends up being really unresponsive, runs the AC too long to cool and then flips on at weird temps in for the rest of the house. I've got a Nest remote sensor coming in that I'm going to put in the downstairs family room and hopefully setting it to main will make the AC act a little more reasonably.
The thermostat in our house is in a silly spot, upstairs hallway with no vents and by the stairs where all the hot air collects. It just ends up being really unresponsive, runs the AC too long to cool and then flips on at weird temps in for the rest of the house. I've got a Nest remote sensor coming in that I'm going to put in the downstairs family room and hopefully setting it to main will make the AC act a little more reasonably.
I was hesitant about the nest remote sensors after seeing some bad reviews but they're pretty good. It's manual which sensor it uses to determine temperature but I don't really see any way it could not be manual, so that seems okay to me? I've got them throughout my upstairs now since it tends to be wildly different temperatures in the bedroom, my office, my fiancee's office, the guest room, and the landing (where the thermostat actually is).
We need to replace all the smoke detectors for a 2 story house. I have no idea how much we should spend. Recommendations?
Go to the Lowes site?
* See if the existing ones are hardwired or if they just have batteries.
* For anything near a kitchen or bathroom, make sure you get a photoelectric smoke detector, not ionization. (Ionization will detect steam.)
* Make sure you have a photoelectric and ionization smoke detector on both floors. (These trigger under different circumstances, so having both around can be useful.)
And yes, get a name brand. They're not that expensive. You have options below $20/each.
Also have at least one Carbon Monoxide detector per floor and if you go for combination CO/Smoke detectors get the ones that talk (will make a tone and then say carbon monoxide or Fire/smoke) when activated
Do not use combination detectors. CO and smoke detectors need to be mounted at different heights to be effective.
We need to replace all the smoke detectors for a 2 story house. I have no idea how much we should spend. Recommendations?
Go to the Lowes site?
* See if the existing ones are hardwired or if they just have batteries.
* For anything near a kitchen or bathroom, make sure you get a photoelectric smoke detector, not ionization. (Ionization will detect steam.)
* Make sure you have a photoelectric and ionization smoke detector on both floors. (These trigger under different circumstances, so having both around can be useful.)
And yes, get a name brand. They're not that expensive. You have options below $20/each.
Also have at least one Carbon Monoxide detector per floor and if you go for combination CO/Smoke detectors get the ones that talk (will make a tone and then say carbon monoxide or Fire/smoke) when activated
Do not use combination detectors. CO and smoke detectors need to be mounted at different heights to be effective.
I've never seen anything to suggest that there is a significant disadvantage for having a ceiling mounted CO detector
RedTide#1907 on Battle.net
Come Overwatch with meeeee
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
CO sits on the floor. By the time your ceiling mounted CO detector gets a whiff of it, the room is nearly full of CO.
Note that that article says to mount CO detectors 5' above the floor, while smoke detectors are commonly mounted on the ceiling.
In an average house, there's enough air movement to keep things mixed up, so I doubt that the density of air vs CO matters that much; I think 5' is because many CO detectors have a readout of current levels, and 5' is a good reading height. (It's also near mouth height, so the quality of air at 5' is what actually matters.)
Selling has been stressful so far. One of the second showings cancelled at the last minute. The other stayed longer than scheduled, walked our neighborhood down to a lake/park after, and brought parents with... But they haven't even listed their place yet.
Showing that called our realtor off the yard sign today just didn't show. And we have another first timer this evening.
Note that that article says to mount CO detectors 5' above the floor, while smoke detectors are commonly mounted on the ceiling.
In an average house, there's enough air movement to keep things mixed up, so I doubt that the density of air vs CO matters that much; I think 5' is because many CO detectors have a readout of current levels, and 5' is a good reading height. (It's also near mouth height, so the quality of air at 5' is what actually matters.)
Some CO detectors are cumulative and the 5 ft recommendation likely comes because that will keep them from getting triggered during non critical events (it's Thanksgiving and the oven is on all day with the windows closed) because some gas burning appliances will generate minute build ups of CO in the house over time even when functioning properly. CO detector goes off, fire department gets called, they never find a reading over 2 ppm, rinse and repeat.
Contrast that when a water heater, dryer or oven is malfunctioning and is dangerous - when the detector is at 5 ft your chances of getting a false positive is basically zero.
But the reality is the detectors will do just fine on the ceiling if an accidental activation isn't going to lead you being dumb or complacent
RedTide#1907 on Battle.net
Come Overwatch with meeeee
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
It just occurred to me that one of our CO detectors is about three feet from our pellet stove and near the floor. So either the stove is super well vented or that detector never worked.
It just occurred to me that one of our CO detectors is about three feet from our pellet stove and near the floor. So either the stove is super well vented or that detector never worked.
I've never seen a pellet stove in a house I walked into for CO but that's because I work in urban New Jersey.
Most of the stoves that tend to be "slightly defective" are also either very old or sometimes very dirty.
The ones that are throwing dangerous levels tend to be old as shit and in bad repair but that of course isn't a hard truth.
Badly vented dryers are a big one but the most likely culprit to be both relatively late model and competently installed seems to be gas water heaters.
RedTide#1907 on Battle.net
Come Overwatch with meeeee
CO sits on the floor. By the time your ceiling mounted CO detector gets a whiff of it, the room is nearly full of CO.
Yeah, nah, the only gas you're likely to encounter in a typical household environment with a density heavier then air is Propane.
Also don't forget Radon, but that's mostly harmless and in basements.
Radon is its own beast, and is handled differently. I live in a region where radon is a problem, so I paid for a radon test as part of the home inspection, and my home has a passive mitigation system.
CO sits on the floor. By the time your ceiling mounted CO detector gets a whiff of it, the room is nearly full of CO.
Yeah, nah, the only gas you're likely to encounter in a typical household environment with a density heavier then air is Propane.
Also don't forget Radon, but that's mostly harmless and in basements.
Radon is its own beast, and is handled differently. I live in a region where radon is a problem, so I paid for a radon test as part of the home inspection, and my home has a passive mitigation system.
Well yes, I also live in a place it's prevalent and tested my home twice just to be safe, but my point is it's not deadly in the same way. Long term, if you live exposed to high amounts of it yes it increases your odds of cancer considerably, but it won't kill you like carbon monoxide will. Or propane for that matter.
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y2jake215certified Flat Birther theoristthe Last Good Boy onlineRegistered Userregular
Radon is not a carbon monoxide level instant death threat, but it’s still incredibly nasty and you should not ignore it/the potential for it
maybe i'm streaming terrible dj right now if i am its here
The thermostat in our house is in a silly spot, upstairs hallway with no vents and by the stairs where all the hot air collects. It just ends up being really unresponsive, runs the AC too long to cool and then flips on at weird temps in for the rest of the house. I've got a Nest remote sensor coming in that I'm going to put in the downstairs family room and hopefully setting it to main will make the AC act a little more reasonably.
I was hesitant about the nest remote sensors after seeing some bad reviews but they're pretty good. It's manual which sensor it uses to determine temperature but I don't really see any way it could not be manual, so that seems okay to me? I've got them throughout my upstairs now since it tends to be wildly different temperatures in the bedroom, my office, my fiancee's office, the guest room, and the landing (where the thermostat actually is).
Not gonna lie I didn't even think about looking at reviews, I was stoked that they had something and $40 is a pretty easy price to try something. I'm glad to hear it's manual, having to try to automatically pick which sensor it's using as main seems like a nightmare
Can anyone ID the following plants for me? I weeded my front flowerbeds this weekend and the jungle I had let grow there had choked some of them out and they need replacing.
Posts
Check the comps for the property, that's what the appraiser is going to do.
That... sounds like a good place for a 'wildflower' feature?
Also the appraiser is mostly looking for gross malfeasance. Like a property that is selling for double everything in the area. There’s just no way to be super accurate with the evaluation, so most of the time, as long as comps are with 10-20%, they just appraise it at the sales price.
Over or under asking doesn’t really mean anything, since people play weird games with listing prices.
Yeah, probably. Eventually I'd like a retaining wall, but that's $$$$
4.5 to 2.5
I'm not sure why our original loan was 4.5. Both my wife and I have excellent credit and good, steady, long-term jobs. With the sale of our previous house, we even had a sizable down payment, too, and we went with a 20 year loan.
Maybe loan rates were crazy 2 years ago. I don't recall.
They were. My loan is in the 4.x range as well, because rates were pretty high at the time. With them falling off a cliff, I need to look into refinancing.
I also have a 4.5 rate... 2 years ago they were all talking about how low that was, and how it was likely to go up soon! Historically that is still low, we've just been in this bizzaro world where the Fed loans money at 0% for so long it's easy to forget that these low, low interest rates aren't normal. If and when the economy ever recovers the rates will go right back up there again.
Ours is as well and I'd love to refinance, but our credit has gone off a cliff the last two years so lol.
The muni bond rates I track for my job basically hit their all time low again in late July, and they've just been dropping steadily since.
In other fun news, Trump's nuking of the post office has caused my insurance payment to go missing, and my policy expires Monday. Both the bank and the insurance company responded to me with a shrug and said to call back Monday to see if the payment arrived yet. It was sent over a month ago, so I have my doubts. Pretty sure I get to pay this one out of pocket and pray that somehow, someway my escrow gets refunded and they cut me a check or something.
As an aside, I positively hate the automated voice response hedge maze you have to navigate in order to get a human being on the phone.
Your on the hook for your earnest money, but check the price per square foot of houses sold in your neighborhood. And if it doesn’t appraise you can back out for the cost of your earnest money. Did you wave the inspection contingency? And can you use the inspection report to back out if you need too?
Go to the Lowes site?
* See if the existing ones are hardwired or if they just have batteries.
* For anything near a kitchen or bathroom, make sure you get a photoelectric smoke detector, not ionization. (Ionization will detect steam.)
* Make sure you have a photoelectric and ionization smoke detector on both floors. (These trigger under different circumstances, so having both around can be useful.)
And yes, get a name brand. They're not that expensive. You have options below $20/each.
Also consider getting "10 year" units - these have an internal battery designed to last the service life of the detector, so that you are not needing to replace batteries twice a year.
Wait... are you supposed to replace smoke detectors periodically?
Yes. Standard smoke detectors have a 5-10 year service life.
Also have at least one Carbon Monoxide detector per floor and if you go for combination CO/Smoke detectors get the ones that talk (will make a tone and then say carbon monoxide or Fire/smoke) when activated
Come Overwatch with meeeee
I really like them and have had no issues. Plus it's fun to run a test on them when my mom is over babysitting and I'm out of the house
I did kinda mess up and put one in a hallway outside and too close to a bathroom door that my wife uses to shower in and the steam will sometimes make it chirp (not actually alarming, it thinks it has dust in it). Even though it has a setting where steam is not supposed to mess with it.
― John Quincy Adams
I was hesitant about the nest remote sensors after seeing some bad reviews but they're pretty good. It's manual which sensor it uses to determine temperature but I don't really see any way it could not be manual, so that seems okay to me? I've got them throughout my upstairs now since it tends to be wildly different temperatures in the bedroom, my office, my fiancee's office, the guest room, and the landing (where the thermostat actually is).
Do not use combination detectors. CO and smoke detectors need to be mounted at different heights to be effective.
I've never seen anything to suggest that there is a significant disadvantage for having a ceiling mounted CO detector
Come Overwatch with meeeee
I've never heard this and the EPA says otherwise.
Note that that article says to mount CO detectors 5' above the floor, while smoke detectors are commonly mounted on the ceiling.
In an average house, there's enough air movement to keep things mixed up, so I doubt that the density of air vs CO matters that much; I think 5' is because many CO detectors have a readout of current levels, and 5' is a good reading height. (It's also near mouth height, so the quality of air at 5' is what actually matters.)
Showing that called our realtor off the yard sign today just didn't show. And we have another first timer this evening.
Yeah, nah, the only gas you're likely to encounter in a typical household environment with a density heavier then air is Propane.
Come Overwatch with meeeee
Some CO detectors are cumulative and the 5 ft recommendation likely comes because that will keep them from getting triggered during non critical events (it's Thanksgiving and the oven is on all day with the windows closed) because some gas burning appliances will generate minute build ups of CO in the house over time even when functioning properly. CO detector goes off, fire department gets called, they never find a reading over 2 ppm, rinse and repeat.
Contrast that when a water heater, dryer or oven is malfunctioning and is dangerous - when the detector is at 5 ft your chances of getting a false positive is basically zero.
But the reality is the detectors will do just fine on the ceiling if an accidental activation isn't going to lead you being dumb or complacent
Come Overwatch with meeeee
I've never seen a pellet stove in a house I walked into for CO but that's because I work in urban New Jersey.
Most of the stoves that tend to be "slightly defective" are also either very old or sometimes very dirty.
The ones that are throwing dangerous levels tend to be old as shit and in bad repair but that of course isn't a hard truth.
Badly vented dryers are a big one but the most likely culprit to be both relatively late model and competently installed seems to be gas water heaters.
Come Overwatch with meeeee
Also don't forget Radon, but that's mostly harmless and in basements.
Also technically hydrogen sulfide but that's more of a digging hazard
Come Overwatch with meeeee
Radon is its own beast, and is handled differently. I live in a region where radon is a problem, so I paid for a radon test as part of the home inspection, and my home has a passive mitigation system.
Well yes, I also live in a place it's prevalent and tested my home twice just to be safe, but my point is it's not deadly in the same way. Long term, if you live exposed to high amounts of it yes it increases your odds of cancer considerably, but it won't kill you like carbon monoxide will. Or propane for that matter.
maybe i'm streaming terrible dj right now if i am its here
Not gonna lie I didn't even think about looking at reviews, I was stoked that they had something and $40 is a pretty easy price to try something. I'm glad to hear it's manual, having to try to automatically pick which sensor it's using as main seems like a nightmare