Small update: still chewing away at my hordes of intercessors. Got five more riflemen completed, and an officer (captain or lieutenant depending on the list).
Probably because the only thing more expensive than wargames is Lego.
That's not true.
I remember reading a warhammer forum about 15 years ago where a guy postede that her was thinking about starting Fantasy. And his girlfriend was very encouraging since it was such a cheap hobby compared to his model railroading.
On fire
.
Island. Being on fire.
0
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Ian's Airbrush Chronicles continue! Got my shipment in: two head seals, a handle O-ring, thread sealant wax and a whole new head!
Screwed on the first head I used and adding pressure caused the cup to backwash like freakin' Vesuvius. Then I unscrewed the front head piece and the tiny little tip popped out, fortunately not blending into the pitted patio concrete. Into the Mean Green it went, caked with blue paint as it was, and the brand new head went on.
New head is awesome! But I'm still having these strange pulses when actually dispensing water (no paint 'til I know how to clean it right). The frequency of pulses seems to be proportional to the fluid add - going full bore on the water gives frequent, rhythmic spatters while easing up gives lighter pulses with longer (but still steady) periods in between. I'm starting to wonder if either the airbrush body or hose could need some cleaning or service? Do I need to use this thread wax?
Also my friend is having similar problems with his Iwata. I'll have to check it out myself sometime but he's taken fine care of it from what I can tell.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
This is a slightly off-topic question, sorry; but something I've been wondering about lately for no particular reason: how come you don't see more LEGO wargaming terrain? It just seems like such an obvious thing for making various obstacles and platforms and bombed out buildings or whatever, if you don't mind how it looks.
I think plenty of people take it a tier lower and just use cups, books and whatever else is handy. For games like Necromunda it might be handy to be able to build platforms and other multi-level structures, but for the sake of just having something to represent terrain features I don't know if Lego presents a huge advantage over random odds and ends.
Also even a bit of styrofoam packaging sprayed to look like a bunker will fit in better with the models if the painting style is the same, compared to the bright and bold colours of lego.
When I've seen lego used, it's ususally just a few specific bits (pipes & cables or something functional like the turntables etc).
Okay, got the Barracudas (correct models this time) for Aeronautica Imperialis done. I call the camo pattern "chain lightning." I can't remember where I copied it from (likely), or if I came up with it on my own.
Drummed up some motivation to paint after a bit of a break. Got most of my indomitus stuff hit with a zenithal basecoat and did a test paint for slightly different scheme than my other Wolves.
This is a slightly off-topic question, sorry; but something I've been wondering about lately for no particular reason: how come you don't see more LEGO wargaming terrain? It just seems like such an obvious thing for making various obstacles and platforms and bombed out buildings or whatever, if you don't mind how it looks.
I think plenty of people take it a tier lower and just use cups, books and whatever else is handy. For games like Necromunda it might be handy to be able to build platforms and other multi-level structures, but for the sake of just having something to represent terrain features I don't know if Lego presents a huge advantage over random odds and ends.
I have a really, really obscene amount of GW terrain right now, but the best game of Warhammer that I ever played was on a foldup picnic table covered in books, soup cans, and a pencil case, with a centerpiece shield generator that was a broken metronome sitting on top of a PS2.
A venerable Dreadnought stood firm against three rounds of 7th edition Eldar shooting, and was henceforth granted the name Brother Timex.
Extreaminatus, that bust is effing amazing! Those eyes are so well done, and that hair is fantastic. The whole thing is great. If that is to be the last bust you paint, you're going out on top for sure. Nicely done. Just, really cool.
These are the Valkyrie models from Aeronautica Imperialis. The model with the skull decal in the back is a Vendetta variant. The pics of the single plane are both Vendetta. The left wing decal is the wings from a Dark Angles decal cut up, and a skull from an Ultramarine decal with red triangle cut away. I like how it turned out. Three more planes to go.
Yes, they have a certain Oakland (Las Vegas) Raiders look to them. I did not realize that until I took the pics. Again, not great pics. They are mostly black, but, since I think these are supposed to be the troop carrying helicopters of the 40K universe, black seemed proper.
+9
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
edited October 2020
I took a better picture because I don't like the one I posted earlier:
edit: Thank you, @Watcher. I can't look at it and see all the things I wish I had done to it, so it's nice to hear nice things about the thing I did.
My fiance has recently got into miniature painting. She has an art degree and mainly paints as a hobby. I asked her once if she could paint one of my orc D&D miniatures, because I had one pre-painted and the rest were unpainted. To my surprise not only did she do a great job painting the miniature, I also couldn't tell the original from the ones she painted. She even made one orc in gold armor to be an orc leader. She has a website for her art now, if you want to check it out. I am sure she will give you tips. Miniature painting can be a long of fun, but it does take practice. I also purchased a 3D printer to see if I could print my own.
This seems like a really weird question... but does it matter which side up you apply a transfer?
I want some red space wolf transfers, which the forge world space wolf transfers are... but they're mostly for the right shoulder pad, which apparently was a thing for that era of space wolf, but just looks weird to me (Iconography goes on the left shoulder heretics!)
Once you have a transfer off the sheet, can I just flip it and apply it to the opposite shoulder? I don't see why not, but I've never tried and it seems like I'm making this more complicated in my head than it needs to be.
With decals that are printed in just one colour that might work. Otherwise they might look different from the back or just show a white base colour. Also the colour might not look quite as intense as it now is under a layer of the decal sheet. Can you try it with a decal you don't need?
With decals that are printed in just one colour that might work. Otherwise they might look different from the back or just show a white base colour. Also the colour might not look quite as intense as it now is under a layer of the decal sheet. Can you try it with a decal you don't need?
Yeah... I've got boat loads of GW transfers and decals I can try. I assume GW and forgeworld decals are manufactured similarly? I don't own any forge world decals.
This seems like a really weird question... but does it matter which side up you apply a transfer?
I want some red space wolf transfers, which the forge world space wolf transfers are... but they're mostly for the right shoulder pad, which apparently was a thing for that era of space wolf, but just looks weird to me (Iconography goes on the left shoulder heretics!)
Once you have a transfer off the sheet, can I just flip it and apply it to the opposite shoulder? I don't see why not, but I've never tried and it seems like I'm making this more complicated in my head than it needs to be.
I don't think this will work. There should be an adhesive layer under the ink/toner/whatever layer and then a glossy layer over that.
I feel like I've (totally on purpose and not accidentally at all) put decals on backwards and not noticed any ill effects. I also use microsol/set and varnish overtop to seal them though.
This seems like a really weird question... but does it matter which side up you apply a transfer?
I want some red space wolf transfers, which the forge world space wolf transfers are... but they're mostly for the right shoulder pad, which apparently was a thing for that era of space wolf, but just looks weird to me (Iconography goes on the left shoulder heretics!)
Once you have a transfer off the sheet, can I just flip it and apply it to the opposite shoulder? I don't see why not, but I've never tried and it seems like I'm making this more complicated in my head than it needs to be.
I don't think this will work. There should be an adhesive layer under the ink/toner/whatever layer and then a glossy layer over that.
I feel like I've (totally on purpose and not accidentally at all) put decals on backwards and not noticed any ill effects. I also use microsol/set and varnish overtop to seal them though.
I tried it last night with a generic red transfer from a Space Wolves sheet using micro set/sol... It seems to look normal? Worst case my wolves just all have their icons on the opposite shoulder I guess.
Edit - whelp, nevermind that. $40 for a transfer sheet seemed a bit much, $79 after shipping is absolutely too much.
Anyone have experience with shoulder icons from Shapeways or popgoesthemonkey?
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Yeah, no reason it shouldn’t work if you’re covering it with varnish and stuff later. Just be aware that some multi-colour transfers are layered, especially if they have metallic ink, so not all of the details will be visible on the other side, or it will look weird. Single-colour prints should always be reversible though.
@Dr_Keenbean
Does it matter what kind? There's a pretty broad variety of color combinations and I can't tell the difference
Milliput colours are basically cosmetic. They can all be sanded and painted anyway. The superfine white is specifically designed to match fine porcelain and does actually have a smaller grain structure but otherwise the milliput guys have their niche and they are sticking to it. Yellow-grey was the first is the most common, and probably cheapest so roll (sorry) with that. Just be aware it sets like rock, literally, with zero flex, very much unlike green stuff.
@Dr_Keenbean
Does it matter what kind? There's a pretty broad variety of color combinations and I can't tell the difference
Milliput colours are basically cosmetic. They can all be sanded and painted anyway. The superfine white is specifically designed to match fine porcelain and does actually have a smaller grain structure but otherwise the milliput guys have their niche and they are sticking to it. Yellow-grey was the first is the most common, and probably cheapest so roll (sorry) with that. Just be aware it sets like rock, literally, with zero flex, very much unlike green stuff.
That's awesome, thank you. I'm actually ok with it setting harder than green stuff. It bugs me that green stuff doesn't sand well.
@Dr_Keenbean
Does it matter what kind? There's a pretty broad variety of color combinations and I can't tell the difference
Milliput colours are basically cosmetic. They can all be sanded and painted anyway. The superfine white is specifically designed to match fine porcelain and does actually have a smaller grain structure but otherwise the milliput guys have their niche and they are sticking to it. Yellow-grey was the first is the most common, and probably cheapest so roll (sorry) with that. Just be aware it sets like rock, literally, with zero flex, very much unlike green stuff.
That's awesome, thank you. I'm actually ok with it setting harder than green stuff. It bugs me that green stuff doesn't sand well.
This is one reason I like Milliput over Green Stuff. Once hard, it sands fantastically and you can get some really clean, sharp corners and edges with it.
Posts
Yeah but a lot more people have random LEGO lying around than random wargaming terrain, especially if they have kids :razz:
if you have lego you have terrain....
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
That's not true.
I remember reading a warhammer forum about 15 years ago where a guy postede that her was thinking about starting Fantasy. And his girlfriend was very encouraging since it was such a cheap hobby compared to his model railroading.
.
Island. Being on fire.
Screwed on the first head I used and adding pressure caused the cup to backwash like freakin' Vesuvius. Then I unscrewed the front head piece and the tiny little tip popped out, fortunately not blending into the pitted patio concrete. Into the Mean Green it went, caked with blue paint as it was, and the brand new head went on.
New head is awesome! But I'm still having these strange pulses when actually dispensing water (no paint 'til I know how to clean it right). The frequency of pulses seems to be proportional to the fluid add - going full bore on the water gives frequent, rhythmic spatters while easing up gives lighter pulses with longer (but still steady) periods in between. I'm starting to wonder if either the airbrush body or hose could need some cleaning or service? Do I need to use this thread wax?
Also my friend is having similar problems with his Iwata. I'll have to check it out myself sometime but he's taken fine care of it from what I can tell.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
I think plenty of people take it a tier lower and just use cups, books and whatever else is handy. For games like Necromunda it might be handy to be able to build platforms and other multi-level structures, but for the sake of just having something to represent terrain features I don't know if Lego presents a huge advantage over random odds and ends.
When I've seen lego used, it's ususally just a few specific bits (pipes & cables or something functional like the turntables etc).
Not really "standard" if you ask me
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
All the others Ive tried are perfect? Leadbelcher, Corax White, Choas Black etc
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I think this is the last bust I will paint.
I have a really, really obscene amount of GW terrain right now, but the best game of Warhammer that I ever played was on a foldup picnic table covered in books, soup cans, and a pencil case, with a centerpiece shield generator that was a broken metronome sitting on top of a PS2.
A venerable Dreadnought stood firm against three rounds of 7th edition Eldar shooting, and was henceforth granted the name Brother Timex.
Yes, they have a certain Oakland (Las Vegas) Raiders look to them. I did not realize that until I took the pics. Again, not great pics. They are mostly black, but, since I think these are supposed to be the troop carrying helicopters of the 40K universe, black seemed proper.
edit: Thank you, @Watcher. I can't look at it and see all the things I wish I had done to it, so it's nice to hear nice things about the thing I did.
I want some red space wolf transfers, which the forge world space wolf transfers are... but they're mostly for the right shoulder pad, which apparently was a thing for that era of space wolf, but just looks weird to me (Iconography goes on the left shoulder heretics!)
Once you have a transfer off the sheet, can I just flip it and apply it to the opposite shoulder? I don't see why not, but I've never tried and it seems like I'm making this more complicated in my head than it needs to be.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Yeah... I've got boat loads of GW transfers and decals I can try. I assume GW and forgeworld decals are manufactured similarly? I don't own any forge world decals.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
That white bit is a pair of broken pipes he’s kicking off of.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I don't think this will work. There should be an adhesive layer under the ink/toner/whatever layer and then a glossy layer over that.
I could be wrong though.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I tried it last night with a generic red transfer from a Space Wolves sheet using micro set/sol... It seems to look normal? Worst case my wolves just all have their icons on the opposite shoulder I guess.
Edit - whelp, nevermind that. $40 for a transfer sheet seemed a bit much, $79 after shipping is absolutely too much.
Anyone have experience with shoulder icons from Shapeways or popgoesthemonkey?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Should I redo his legs to further differentiate him from the stock build?
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Soooo.... I went and glued two outrider bikes together to make my own.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Pretty excited to try these.
Green stuff seems spendy per gram. What's the modeling putty of choice for these things?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Does it matter what kind? There's a pretty broad variety of color combinations and I can't tell the difference
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
That's awesome, thank you. I'm actually ok with it setting harder than green stuff. It bugs me that green stuff doesn't sand well.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
This is one reason I like Milliput over Green Stuff. Once hard, it sands fantastically and you can get some really clean, sharp corners and edges with it.