StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
What are some good uses for two part resin? I've had some for a year and a half or so and I don't know what to do with it at this point. Don't really have anything to add water to so I'm not sure I can use it for that.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited October 2020
Use some tin foil, shape five sides around a square block then remove the block.
Pour in your mixed resin, and bam! Gelatinous Cubes.
Nips on
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
I will never read about Gelatinous Cubes without thinking of Wayne's World. I know they are one of the many weird & wonderful monsters from the old, old days of D&D. But WW is where I first heard of them as a kid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4tmzwrdTmY
Alright, was gifted an air brush, what's a good model that's relatively cheap to practice on? Push-fit I assume.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited October 2020
Go to a GW store and pretend to be a noob so you can do this but with minis into your pocket instead of the trash. (they will make you slap some paint on it there but you can just paint over)
So whats everyone opinions of different paint companies? I've mostly used Citadel paints and really liked them, and I also had a few of the paints Reaper makes though I wasn't a fan of them.
I ask because Army Painter came out with a bunch of D&D paint sets recently and I think the wife is looking at getting me the set with 36 paints and an Owlbear figure. I've never used Army Painter but I hear them spoken of in the same way as Vallejo as the better paints. Is it just preference or are they better then say Citadel? I will say I feel like Games Workshop and P3 have a wide ranger of colors that I haven't seen from like Army Painter but this could just be me not digging deep enough
So whats everyone opinions of different paint companies? I've mostly used Citadel paints and really liked them, and I also had a few of the paints Reaper makes though I wasn't a fan of them.
I ask because Army Painter came out with a bunch of D&D paint sets recently and I think the wife is looking at getting me the set with 36 paints and an Owlbear figure. I've never used Army Painter but I hear them spoken of in the same way as Vallejo as the better paints. Is it just preference or are they better then say Citadel? I will say I feel like Games Workshop and P3 have a wide ranger of colors that I haven't seen from like Army Painter but this could just be me not digging deep enough
Ive done a deep dive on Scale 75, their paints are amazing, as well as their inks and metalics.
For washes I use mostly the game workshop washes, I find they lay down real nice, and for primers it's Vallejo. I also used mostly Vallejo paints as that was what our group bought when we were sharing them all.
So whats everyone opinions of different paint companies? I've mostly used Citadel paints and really liked them, and I also had a few of the paints Reaper makes though I wasn't a fan of them.
I ask because Army Painter came out with a bunch of D&D paint sets recently and I think the wife is looking at getting me the set with 36 paints and an Owlbear figure. I've never used Army Painter but I hear them spoken of in the same way as Vallejo as the better paints. Is it just preference or are they better then say Citadel? I will say I feel like Games Workshop and P3 have a wide ranger of colors that I haven't seen from like Army Painter but this could just be me not digging deep enough
I like the army painter bottles a whole lot more with their dropper tops instead of Citadels insane scoop tops that may or may not fully close and leave you with huge chunks of dried paint in the hinge.
So whats everyone opinions of different paint companies? I've mostly used Citadel paints and really liked them, and I also had a few of the paints Reaper makes though I wasn't a fan of them.
I ask because Army Painter came out with a bunch of D&D paint sets recently and I think the wife is looking at getting me the set with 36 paints and an Owlbear figure. I've never used Army Painter but I hear them spoken of in the same way as Vallejo as the better paints. Is it just preference or are they better then say Citadel? I will say I feel like Games Workshop and P3 have a wide ranger of colors that I haven't seen from like Army Painter but this could just be me not digging deep enough
I like the army painter bottles a whole lot more with their dropper tops instead of Citadels insane scoop tops that may or may not fully close and leave you with huge chunks of dried paint in the hinge.
I agree, but I got some drop tops from Dr.Tabletop for citadel paints
So whats everyone opinions of different paint companies? I've mostly used Citadel paints and really liked them, and I also had a few of the paints Reaper makes though I wasn't a fan of them.
I ask because Army Painter came out with a bunch of D&D paint sets recently and I think the wife is looking at getting me the set with 36 paints and an Owlbear figure. I've never used Army Painter but I hear them spoken of in the same way as Vallejo as the better paints. Is it just preference or are they better then say Citadel? I will say I feel like Games Workshop and P3 have a wide ranger of colors that I haven't seen from like Army Painter but this could just be me not digging deep enough
I like the army painter bottles a whole lot more with their dropper tops instead of Citadels insane scoop tops that may or may not fully close and leave you with huge chunks of dried paint in the hinge.
Dropper tops for LIFE! I have extra droppers for when I get the Citadel washes, so I can transfer them over from the damn scoop bottles.
So whats everyone opinions of different paint companies? I've mostly used Citadel paints and really liked them, and I also had a few of the paints Reaper makes though I wasn't a fan of them.
I ask because Army Painter came out with a bunch of D&D paint sets recently and I think the wife is looking at getting me the set with 36 paints and an Owlbear figure. I've never used Army Painter but I hear them spoken of in the same way as Vallejo as the better paints. Is it just preference or are they better then say Citadel? I will say I feel like Games Workshop and P3 have a wide ranger of colors that I haven't seen from like Army Painter but this could just be me not digging deep enough
Army painter is.....fine. Not as good at Citadel. I use Vallejo for some of their metallics and other specialized stuff and its all great.
Army Painter is good once you factor in the price. Significantly cheaper but not that much worse in quality.
gt: Bobby2Socks | steam: Billy Boot-Snatcher
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Having spent more money on paint than most people in the US make in a year here is the current state of my (often changing) list factoring in paint quality as well as containers (in descending order of quality):
Scale Artist - heavy body acrylic in tube
Khimera Kolor (but good luck finding them and mixing is a must) - dropper
Scalecolor - dropper
Vallejo Model Color / Model Air - dropper
Scale Fantasy & Games - dropper
Tamiya - screw-top pot
Reaper Master Series - dropper
P3 / Coat d'Arms (literally the old Citadel paint in the good pot)
Citadel Colour - if cancer were a paint pot
Vallejo Game Color - dropper
Scale Artist gets top billing because the paints are incredible to work with and the tubes mean no clogs and no shaking. Ever.
Scalecolor is pretty much the sweet spot with the best metallics and great inks to boot. They even have fluorescent paints and have recently introduced a competitor to Citadel's Contrast line.
Army Painter is best avoided. Their sprays are okay though.
Having spent more money on paint than most people in the US make in a year here is the current state of my (often changing) list factoring in paint quality as well as containers (in descending order of quality):
Scale Artist - heavy body acrylic in tube
Khimera Kolor (but good luck finding them and mixing is a must) - dropper
Scalecolor - dropper
Vallejo Model Color / Model Air - dropper
Scale Fantasy & Games - dropper
Tamiya - screw-top pot
Reaper Master Series - dropper
P3 / Coat d'Arms (literally the old Citadel paint in the good pot)
Citadel Colour - if cancer were a paint pot
Vallejo Game Color - dropper
Scale Artist gets top billing because the paints are incredible to work with and the tubes mean no clogs and no shaking. Ever.
Scalecolor is pretty much the sweet spot with the best metallics and great inks to boot. They even have fluorescent paints and have recently introduced a competitor to Citadel's Contrast line.
Army Painter is best avoided. Their sprays are okay though.
I backed the scalecolor contrast kickstarter and am very excited to see how they perform. I have an ice giant just waiting for them.
Thanks for the recommendations folks. I never heard of Scale 75, so I'll check some of their stuff out.
I do tend to like the Citadel colors, might give a few others a try. And I agree the top are awful. I recommend these: https://www.drtabletop.com/shop/droptop I got a bunch as a Kickstarter thingy and they work wonders. They also sell the little shaker balls, but their ceramic and not metal so they should last longer.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Scale 75 are one of my favorite paints right now. I love their metallics though the Vallejo metallic paint line is hard to beat.
One thing to keep in mind for scale 75 is that the paints in the dropper bottles dry very matte, maybe more satin. I like the look but definitely not for everyone.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
In the Scalecolor range, nothing is even remotely satin. It's just matte all day. The mattest matte you've ever seen.
I should have added the caveat that you'll want to grab black from a different range because the Scalecolor black is so matte it looks gray. You can also thin it with black ink to bring some shine in and make it a deeper black.
In the Scalecolor range, nothing is even remotely satin. It's just matte all day. The mattest matte you've ever seen.
I should have added the caveat that you'll want to grab black from a different range because the Scalecolor black is so matte it looks gray. You can also thin it with black ink to bring some shine in and make it a deeper black.
Yea, I'm confusing what satin finish means. It is very matte though I don't think the black paint looks all that bad.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
When you guys talk about the Vallejo metallics, do you mean the Liquid Gold line, the Metal Color line, or the Model Color line?
Metal color line. Good stuff
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Scalecolor black doesn't look bad at all. It's designed the way it is to give room to deepen the color with inks. I just threw that out there because on its own it is not what most people think of when the think of black paint and it can be jarring.
One of the cooler aspects of Scale's matte-ness is that if you thin them down enough (and they can be thinned down crazy far without breaking apart - sooooo good at making glazes) and use them as a sort of wash, when they dry they have a similar effect to pigment powders.
Someone had mentioned before using brass rod to pin. What size? 1/32" or 1/16".. whatever those are in mm...
Like, primaris sized resin stuff
Whatever fits the joint best. I’ve used both, as well as larger and smaller over the years. Smaller for wrists and the like, larger for shoulders or necks. Of course if you only have the smaller diameter stuff, you can just use two (or more) pins but then alignment gets trickier.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited October 2020
Kind of considering doing a paint competition my LGS is doing. It is the wizkids zombie paint night thing but I have no idea what I'd do to paint an interesting zombie model. 1st place prize is a scale 75 10 color paint kit of the winner's choosing that they have in stocks.
I want it.
Duncan has a forum now on his website for members. Was wondering when that would happen.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I haven't been painting much lately, partly cos I haven't got much left to paint, and partly cos I was waiting on some new paints to show up but they were delayed in the post, but they've arrived now so I've been able to finish off some little projects:
Morgwaeth's Blade-coven for Underworlds, I still need to make a proper deck for them but I might just wait till Season 4 now, not like I'm going to have much opportunity to play before then...
And a quick squad of Cypher Lords for Warcry, mostly just cos I like the sculpts:
They even got selected to be shown on the Warhammer twitch feed! Which was certainly very flattering, but kinda funny as they were a bit of a quick and messy paint job for the most part.
+19
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Scale is about to launch another kickstarter. No paint this time (good, since they're in the middle of shipping the last one). Looks like a book collection (probably physical & digital)
Do you want to learn or improve the painting of your miniatures? Now it's easy with the MINIPEDIA by Scale75.
How did you get them featured on the warhammer twitch feed?
You just post pics on Twitter or Instagram with the appropriate warhammer community hashtag and whoever's running the GW account will see them, if you catch their eye they'll ask permission to use them in the show.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited October 2020
Finished some mans. Just gave them their final ultra matte varnish:
Picture is kind of washed out, in person they pop a lot more than this picture makes it look. Pretty happy with them overall. Not perfect, lots of little mistakes if you look really close...but from table top distance I think they are perfectly passable.
Passable from tabletop distance is something I need to focus on more... I agonize over the tiniest brush strokes when the model is six inches from my face.
I'd get a lot more done if I just painted with them being an arm's length away in mind
Passable from tabletop distance is something I need to focus on more... I agonize over the tiniest brush strokes when the model is six inches from my face.
I'd get a lot more done if I just painted with them being an arm's length away in mind
I struggle with it as well. I'm a perfectionist and tend to obsess over being "good" at things. It's been a struggle to overcome my own perfectionism and dumb fears to get myself to just paint models. I'm trying to teach myself to time box things, especially troop models. I don't need to spend two weeks obsessing over the details of mass infantry but it's a struggle not to. So I'm there with you.
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited October 2020
I don't think it's an uncommon issue. It's easy to get lost in the details when painting because you're looking right at them from inches away for potentially hours.
I can tell you right now that unless you're entering a mini into one of the bigger painting competitions that's judged by actual artists (so not Golden Daemon or an FLGS) then nobody - nobody - cares even the slightest bit about how you agonized over color choice and placement or any other myriad things you probably lost sleep over.
So, you know, you shouldn't obsess over that shit either because you'll just be disappointed and discouraged.
Posts
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Liquid resin. I bought this easy flow clear casting resin from brick in the yard. Got the pint kit.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Pour in your mixed resin, and bam! Gelatinous Cubes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4tmzwrdTmY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV8BlBKupHM
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I ask because Army Painter came out with a bunch of D&D paint sets recently and I think the wife is looking at getting me the set with 36 paints and an Owlbear figure. I've never used Army Painter but I hear them spoken of in the same way as Vallejo as the better paints. Is it just preference or are they better then say Citadel? I will say I feel like Games Workshop and P3 have a wide ranger of colors that I haven't seen from like Army Painter but this could just be me not digging deep enough
Gi Joes from a Good Will / Second Hand store. (Really any old toys will do)
Throw some primer overtop and practice painting.
MWO: Adamski
Ive done a deep dive on Scale 75, their paints are amazing, as well as their inks and metalics.
For washes I use mostly the game workshop washes, I find they lay down real nice, and for primers it's Vallejo. I also used mostly Vallejo paints as that was what our group bought when we were sharing them all.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I like the army painter bottles a whole lot more with their dropper tops instead of Citadels insane scoop tops that may or may not fully close and leave you with huge chunks of dried paint in the hinge.
MWO: Adamski
I agree, but I got some drop tops from Dr.Tabletop for citadel paints
Dropper tops for LIFE! I have extra droppers for when I get the Citadel washes, so I can transfer them over from the damn scoop bottles.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Army painter is.....fine. Not as good at Citadel. I use Vallejo for some of their metallics and other specialized stuff and its all great.
I've recently been using these a lot and the results are phenomenal
Still it kind of sucks I have had a hard time getting the primers over the summer to paint
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
Scale Artist gets top billing because the paints are incredible to work with and the tubes mean no clogs and no shaking. Ever.
Scalecolor is pretty much the sweet spot with the best metallics and great inks to boot. They even have fluorescent paints and have recently introduced a competitor to Citadel's Contrast line.
Army Painter is best avoided. Their sprays are okay though.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I backed the scalecolor contrast kickstarter and am very excited to see how they perform. I have an ice giant just waiting for them.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I do tend to like the Citadel colors, might give a few others a try. And I agree the top are awful. I recommend these: https://www.drtabletop.com/shop/droptop I got a bunch as a Kickstarter thingy and they work wonders. They also sell the little shaker balls, but their ceramic and not metal so they should last longer.
One thing to keep in mind for scale 75 is that the paints in the dropper bottles dry very matte, maybe more satin. I like the look but definitely not for everyone.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I should have added the caveat that you'll want to grab black from a different range because the Scalecolor black is so matte it looks gray. You can also thin it with black ink to bring some shine in and make it a deeper black.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Yea, I'm confusing what satin finish means. It is very matte though I don't think the black paint looks all that bad.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Metal color line. Good stuff
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
One of the cooler aspects of Scale's matte-ness is that if you thin them down enough (and they can be thinned down crazy far without breaking apart - sooooo good at making glazes) and use them as a sort of wash, when they dry they have a similar effect to pigment powders.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Like, primaris sized resin stuff
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Whatever fits the joint best. I’ve used both, as well as larger and smaller over the years. Smaller for wrists and the like, larger for shoulders or necks. Of course if you only have the smaller diameter stuff, you can just use two (or more) pins but then alignment gets trickier.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I want it.
Duncan has a forum now on his website for members. Was wondering when that would happen.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
managed to shake myself out of the slump I was in long enough to paint a skellington
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Morgwaeth's Blade-coven for Underworlds, I still need to make a proper deck for them but I might just wait till Season 4 now, not like I'm going to have much opportunity to play before then...
And a quick squad of Cypher Lords for Warcry, mostly just cos I like the sculpts:
They even got selected to be shown on the Warhammer twitch feed! Which was certainly very flattering, but kinda funny as they were a bit of a quick and messy paint job for the most part.
Titles of the books from the teaser image:
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
You just post pics on Twitter or Instagram with the appropriate warhammer community hashtag and whoever's running the GW account will see them, if you catch their eye they'll ask permission to use them in the show.
Picture is kind of washed out, in person they pop a lot more than this picture makes it look. Pretty happy with them overall. Not perfect, lots of little mistakes if you look really close...but from table top distance I think they are perfectly passable.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
This is all that matters anyway. This photo is from table-top distance and they are far superior to "passable".
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I'd get a lot more done if I just painted with them being an arm's length away in mind
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I struggle with it as well. I'm a perfectionist and tend to obsess over being "good" at things. It's been a struggle to overcome my own perfectionism and dumb fears to get myself to just paint models. I'm trying to teach myself to time box things, especially troop models. I don't need to spend two weeks obsessing over the details of mass infantry but it's a struggle not to. So I'm there with you.
I can tell you right now that unless you're entering a mini into one of the bigger painting competitions that's judged by actual artists (so not Golden Daemon or an FLGS) then nobody - nobody - cares even the slightest bit about how you agonized over color choice and placement or any other myriad things you probably lost sleep over.
So, you know, you shouldn't obsess over that shit either because you'll just be disappointed and discouraged.
Now if I could just follow my own advice ever...
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705