A month ago, as a treat for myself, I bought a sotor 20/20. It showed up with stripped threads and couldn't connect to my compressor.
The replacement showed up this week and something is wrong with the nozzle. You can dial the needle to one of two settings... constantly blowing paint anytime air moves, or contantly blowing air back into the cup hard enough to shoot the cap off. I've stripped it twice and I cannot figure out what's wrong with the goddamn thing.
Any recommendations on airbrushes that are a similar price point / detail level, but don't have dogshit quality control?
That's really off brand for Badger. Did you order directly from them?
One of their Canadian licensed retailers via amazon so that I could get prime shipping. Luckily the via amazon part makes it easy to get my money back.
It's an absolute pain in the ass finding airbrush supplies in Canada right now. Usually I do all my stuff directly in the US and just drive across the border to my mailbox to pick stuff up, but you know.... Covid. :bigfrown:
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited October 2020
I know Angel Giraldez uses Harder & Steinbeck airbrushes and he does the studio paint jobs for Corvus Belli. He uses whichever models he uses for detail work.
I know Angel Giraldez uses Harder & Steinbeck airbrushes and he does the studio paint jobs for Corvus Belli. He uses whichever models he uses for detail work.
Probably wouldn't be hard to find what he uses.
Yeah, that wasn't bad to find at all. I think Marco Frisoni uses a steinbeck as well.
Detail airbrushing you'd want a .15, .2 or .4mm nozzle? Giraldez uses an infinity CR plus, but they sell it with one of three nozzles.
Found a video of him reviewing airbrushes... looks like .15mm is the way to go
Squinting at that, pondering the anatomical complexities of an actual bird wielding a sword
If you look up other birds in the mini range they seem to have magic feather thumbs that let them hold things in their wings. This fits with the rules which leave you unarmed for the rest of turn if you fly.
+3
Options
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Man, I actually painted something yesterday!~
... I have no proof of this because I painted a friend's historical roman general miniature and it is gone now, but I swear I did it!
...
I miss painting. I really need to get over my internal hump and just keep picking away at some stuff. sigh
How are you guys handling 40k models that use the new flightstands?
Glue the flightstand on and just be very, very careful? Glue something to the foot of the model, then paint it, then glue it to the base? Just spray prime the whole thing and then paint the flightstand black later?
I usually spray prime the model glued to a toothpick and either
a) also paint it like that, or
b) remove the toothpick, glue it to the flight stand, wrap some masking tape around the stand so i don't get paint on it, and then paint the model that way
basically depending on how much faith i have that the toothpick will hold up to my man-handling the model because i'm an ape
Edit: i haven't put together anything with the new curvy flight stand, but i imagine i would still try to tackle them with the same approach
BloodySloth on
0
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited October 2020
Tried replacing some parts on one of my airbrushes, been having a fuck ton of trouble with it. All of a sudden the cap on the airbrush was apparently too tight and restricting air flow so it wouldn't work. In my attempt to replace other parts it seems I messed up the trigger, it won't spring back up now.
I still have my other .3 airbrush that works just fine and now I want to look into a .15, get that nice tight detail and use the .3 for priming and basing.
Anyone have brand recommendations for a .15 nozzle?
Scrolling up I saw harder and Steinbeck mentioned. I'll look into that. Having a weirdly hard time finding companies that make airbrushes with a .15 nozzle.
Harder and Steenbeck has a $320 airbrush that comes with a .15mm nozzle and .4mm nozzle which is tempting but the airbrush that comes with just the .15mm airbrush is $255 so definitely cheaper.
Also have never spent this much on a airbrush. Kind of scary.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I played a crusade match with my buddy the Necron player today and one of my Dreads that's been painted as Iron Hands since I got him second hand smashed SO MANY FACES today... so many in fact that rather than dig into my massively overwhelming backlog I figured I'd give him a space wolf repaint.
That turned into my most productive hobby night in ages while waiting for different things to dry.
The space wolf Dreadnought "No foes Remain" waiting for his oil wash to dry.
Finished all the detail work on my blade guard
I have enough spare marines after all the stuff I've picked up the last couple years that I can actually split some off and make a chapter that isn't Space Wolves. I've always loved the lore behind the Carcharodons, so I knocked out a test scheme... it's not the true carcharadon scheme with the black pauldrons and gold trim. It's actually an alternate scheme that was featured on warhammer community a while ago... This was the most interesting project of the evening... when I started painting again a couple years ago I got into airbrushing pretty quickly... I've never actually edge highlighted or panel lined a model before. It was a learning experience.
And lastly, what's a Carcharodons army without Tyberos the Red Wake... course I'm not shelling out $40 plus shipping for some janky resin, so I made my own. I need to add some chainblade bits to the inside of the gauntlets and do a bit more sanding, but it's 99% there
I'd *suggest* re-priming because every time I've added a basing material thats not textured paint afterwards I've had issues with it coming off. Otherwise I'd suggest sealing it with more PVA or jsut go heavy on the initial layer of paint.
Dude half the people I know who buy recasts get them because the mean quality is HIGHER than forgeworld.
There's a pretty notable difference here between the GW Crusaders and the FW Guardsmen but small sample size. The packaging for FW is pretty hilariously bad.
Hey so I finished my first 2 squads of Fire Warriors. Took bloody forever as it was my first time painting in sub-assembly. First time doing any kind of basing too.
Goddamn was gluing them after painting fiddly as fuck.
Super special thanks to @Viking who got me into painting minis a year and a half ago. I mean that. You didn't have to, but you answered any and all of my inane questions and really encouraged me. You even took the time to help me build my first army list.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Is there an optimal thickness for MDF when making a terrain board? I was gonna use 6 pieces of 2ftx2ft MDF to make the board but I'm worried about warping.
Also, does anyone know of a place that sells fluorescent/very vibrant plants and moss for basing?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Is there an optimal thickness for MDF when making a terrain board? I was gonna use 6 pieces of 2ftx2ft MDF to make the board but I'm worried about warping.
Also, does anyone know of a place that sells fluorescent/very vibrant plants and moss for basing?
Bigot lobby , other hobby/train shops, various online retail. Pet supply stores
Is there an optimal thickness for MDF when making a terrain board? I was gonna use 6 pieces of 2ftx2ft MDF to make the board but I'm worried about warping.
Also, does anyone know of a place that sells fluorescent/very vibrant plants and moss for basing?
Haven used MDF much for terrain... From working on other projects anything less than 1/4" will be prone to warping, depending of course on the region you live in.
It never hurts to seal MDF with some type of primer prior to using it to avoid warping and date from humor though.
Anyone have experience with airbrushing GW's Ardcoat and Stormshield varnishes?
I'm running out of my Vallejo stuff and can't get more anytime soon... probably going to have to resort to GW branded stuff soon.
Wouldn't anticipate a problem. They're both just varnish with dumb names: Ardcoat is gloss and Stormshield is "matte" (probably a little satin-leaning, most is). Try it and see. Worst case scenario is same as any other varnish - clouding - and that's a simple enough fix.
Posts
A month ago, as a treat for myself, I bought a sotor 20/20. It showed up with stripped threads and couldn't connect to my compressor.
The replacement showed up this week and something is wrong with the nozzle. You can dial the needle to one of two settings... constantly blowing paint anytime air moves, or contantly blowing air back into the cup hard enough to shoot the cap off. I've stripped it twice and I cannot figure out what's wrong with the goddamn thing.
Any recommendations on airbrushes that are a similar price point / detail level, but don't have dogshit quality control?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
One of their Canadian licensed retailers via amazon so that I could get prime shipping. Luckily the via amazon part makes it easy to get my money back.
It's an absolute pain in the ass finding airbrush supplies in Canada right now. Usually I do all my stuff directly in the US and just drive across the border to my mailbox to pick stuff up, but you know.... Covid. :bigfrown:
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Probably wouldn't be hard to find what he uses.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Yeah, that wasn't bad to find at all. I think Marco Frisoni uses a steinbeck as well.
Detail airbrushing you'd want a .15, .2 or .4mm nozzle? Giraldez uses an infinity CR plus, but they sell it with one of three nozzles.
Found a video of him reviewing airbrushes... looks like .15mm is the way to go
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Painting Eldar Harlequins is
FTFY
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
If you look up other birds in the mini range they seem to have magic feather thumbs that let them hold things in their wings. This fits with the rules which leave you unarmed for the rest of turn if you fly.
... I have no proof of this because I painted a friend's historical roman general miniature and it is gone now, but I swear I did it!
...
I miss painting. I really need to get over my internal hump and just keep picking away at some stuff. sigh
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Glue the flightstand on and just be very, very careful? Glue something to the foot of the model, then paint it, then glue it to the base? Just spray prime the whole thing and then paint the flightstand black later?
a) also paint it like that, or
b) remove the toothpick, glue it to the flight stand, wrap some masking tape around the stand so i don't get paint on it, and then paint the model that way
basically depending on how much faith i have that the toothpick will hold up to my man-handling the model because i'm an ape
Edit: i haven't put together anything with the new curvy flight stand, but i imagine i would still try to tackle them with the same approach
I still have my other .3 airbrush that works just fine and now I want to look into a .15, get that nice tight detail and use the .3 for priming and basing.
Anyone have brand recommendations for a .15 nozzle?
Scrolling up I saw harder and Steinbeck mentioned. I'll look into that. Having a weirdly hard time finding companies that make airbrushes with a .15 nozzle.
Harder and Steenbeck has a $320 airbrush that comes with a .15mm nozzle and .4mm nozzle which is tempting but the airbrush that comes with just the .15mm airbrush is $255 so definitely cheaper.
Also have never spent this much on a airbrush. Kind of scary.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
That turned into my most productive hobby night in ages while waiting for different things to dry.
The space wolf Dreadnought "No foes Remain" waiting for his oil wash to dry.
Finished all the detail work on my blade guard
I have enough spare marines after all the stuff I've picked up the last couple years that I can actually split some off and make a chapter that isn't Space Wolves. I've always loved the lore behind the Carcharodons, so I knocked out a test scheme... it's not the true carcharadon scheme with the black pauldrons and gold trim. It's actually an alternate scheme that was featured on warhammer community a while ago... This was the most interesting project of the evening... when I started painting again a couple years ago I got into airbrushing pretty quickly... I've never actually edge highlighted or panel lined a model before. It was a learning experience.
And lastly, what's a Carcharodons army without Tyberos the Red Wake... course I'm not shelling out $40 plus shipping for some janky resin, so I made my own. I need to add some chainblade bits to the inside of the gauntlets and do a bit more sanding, but it's 99% there
Ta DAAAAAAAAAAA
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Basically asking if I will need to add it to bases that don't have it, re-prime them or if I can just glue on and get to work.
There's a pretty notable difference here between the GW Crusaders and the FW Guardsmen but small sample size. The packaging for FW is pretty hilariously bad.
Goddamn was gluing them after painting fiddly as fuck.
Super special thanks to @Viking who got me into painting minis a year and a half ago. I mean that. You didn't have to, but you answered any and all of my inane questions and really encouraged me. You even took the time to help me build my first army list.
So thanks dude.
They're agitating the neglected part of my hobby soul that has always wanted to do Tau
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Gonna have to get some of that.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I'm running out of my Vallejo stuff and can't get more anytime soon... probably going to have to resort to GW branded stuff soon.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Also, does anyone know of a place that sells fluorescent/very vibrant plants and moss for basing?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Bigot lobby , other hobby/train shops, various online retail. Pet supply stores
Haven used MDF much for terrain... From working on other projects anything less than 1/4" will be prone to warping, depending of course on the region you live in.
It never hurts to seal MDF with some type of primer prior to using it to avoid warping and date from humor though.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Wouldn't anticipate a problem. They're both just varnish with dumb names: Ardcoat is gloss and Stormshield is "matte" (probably a little satin-leaning, most is). Try it and see. Worst case scenario is same as any other varnish - clouding - and that's a simple enough fix.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705