I'm jealous you can fit in one. I tried to test drive one in my 20s(?) and had to put the top down just to get in it, my forehead was even with the top of the windshield
Congrats on getting a unicorn though!
There are some "tall guy" mods that can be done that allow people that are 6' and maybe even 6'1" fit in the car. I'm 5'11" and it is fine, but I might do the partial cushion removal from the driver seat to sit just a little lower. When I did that in my old NA miata I think I managed to get about 1" lower.
6'3 and currently around 240lbs - i'm a giant for a miata :P My Golf R however is quite comfortable and very very zoomy.
I'm 6 even and I don't fit in much either. Honda Civics after 2008, Corollas until this latest generation, I hardly fit in my Mustang - I slouch a lot to fit in. I don't fit in many seats either.
+1
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I'm 6 even and I don't fit in much either. Honda Civics after 2008, Corollas until this latest generation, I hardly fit in my Mustang - I slouch a lot to fit in. I don't fit in many seats either.
Depending on the car it makes a big difference if you are long legged, long torso or split even.
I'm 6 even and I don't fit in much either. Honda Civics after 2008, Corollas until this latest generation, I hardly fit in my Mustang - I slouch a lot to fit in. I don't fit in many seats either.
Depending on the car it makes a big difference if you are long legged, long torso or split even.
Yeah, I'm long torso, and the Q60 is pretty borderline. I could never put the car on the track because there's no way I could have a helmet on and sit in the cockpit.
Someone more split, or long legged would probably fit a lot more reasonably.
I'm long torso, 6'3", and I fit into my old NA ('92) Miata. I was told I looked like a spider crawling out of a keyhole when I got out of it, but I was perfectly comfortable, even top up, and didn't find it awkward getting in or out. Granted I had the seat pressed as far back against the bulkhead as it would go, but I didn't need to mod the seat cushions or anything.
My XF is plenty capable of accommodating someone significantly taller than me. I can get everything so it's a very uncomfortable stretch to reach, and can lower the seat so much I can't see safely out of it.
The only car I remember not actually fitting in at all was a Chrysler Crossfire. And it was a fairly tight fit in a Porsche Boxster as well when I tried one out - it had less space than the Miata (I had that at the time so direct comparison was easy). But I'm pretty forgiving, I don't mind a snug car.
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
All you gotta do is tear out the factory seat and rails and bolt a Kirkey straight to the floor - gain an instant 5-6 inches of headroom (if you just use the aluminium shell, no padding)!
I'm long torso, 6'3", and I fit into my old NA ('92) Miata. I was told I looked like a spider crawling out of a keyhole when I got out of it, but I was perfectly comfortable, even top up, and didn't find it awkward getting in or out. Granted I had the seat pressed as far back against the bulkhead as it would go, but I didn't need to mod the seat cushions or anything.
My XF is plenty capable of accommodating someone significantly taller than me. I can get everything so it's a very uncomfortable stretch to reach, and can lower the seat so much I can't see safely out of it.
The only car I remember not actually fitting in at all was a Chrysler Crossfire. And it was a fairly tight fit in a Porsche Boxster as well when I tried one out - it had less space than the Miata (I had that at the time so direct comparison was easy). But I'm pretty forgiving, I don't mind a snug car.
Weird, I tried an NB and my eyeliner was even with the top of the windshield as a 5'10 long torso
Well shit. I nailed a pothole hard that I didn't see on my way into work this morning. The suspension bottomed out uncomfortably hard and the I instantly felt a vibration through the steering. The wheel is holding air so it's not a broken wheel but possible a bent wheel. Something in the suspension could be bent if it's not the wheel. Wish me luck that it isn't anything horribly expensive.
Well shit. I nailed a pothole hard that I didn't see on my way into work this morning. The suspension bottomed out uncomfortably hard and the I instantly felt a vibration through the steering. The wheel is holding air so it's not a broken wheel but possible a bent wheel. Something in the suspension could be bent if it's not the wheel. Wish me luck that it isn't anything horribly expensive.
It's a bent wheel. The mechanic moved it to the back axel but I'll be needing to buy a new wheel this Spring. I'll see how bad or noticeable the vibration is on the way home tonight, but I'll likely just be putting my snow wheels on sooner than I planned to. The alignment might even be off so I'll have keep an eye on how it's tracking and steering too.
I know fixing the wheel is an option but when a new one is $225 (Enkei TM7) from Tire Rack that makes more sense to me.
Well shit. I nailed a pothole hard that I didn't see on my way into work this morning. The suspension bottomed out uncomfortably hard and the I instantly felt a vibration through the steering. The wheel is holding air so it's not a broken wheel but possible a bent wheel. Something in the suspension could be bent if it's not the wheel. Wish me luck that it isn't anything horribly expensive.
Bent suspension generally would not cause a vibration, it would tend to cause problems with tracking straight down the road or turning. Damaged tire, bent rim lip, bent rim hub, bent axle/bearing hub would be the likely order of possibilities for them to check. It could even be something as simple as a balancing weight fell off the wheel.
I've hit a large pothole at night at freeway speed before that bent the front rim and blew out the tire and dented the rear rim. It didn't do anything to the suspension parts.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Well shit. I nailed a pothole hard that I didn't see on my way into work this morning. The suspension bottomed out uncomfortably hard and the I instantly felt a vibration through the steering. The wheel is holding air so it's not a broken wheel but possible a bent wheel. Something in the suspension could be bent if it's not the wheel. Wish me luck that it isn't anything horribly expensive.
It's a bent wheel. The mechanic moved it to the back axel but I'll be needing to buy a new wheel this Spring. I'll see how bad or noticeable the vibration is on the way home tonight, but I'll likely just be putting my snow wheels on sooner than I planned to. The alignment might even be off so I'll have keep an eye on how it's tracking and steering too.
I know fixing the wheel is an option but when a new one is $225 (Enkei TM7) from Tire Rack that makes more sense to me.
Lol get two new wheels of a different style and put them on the back axle so you can be a real drifty boi! Enkei Kojins have the right kind of look, and you can even get them plastidipped neon green and start making everyone call you "Takumi"!
Junkyards are a pretty good source for replacement wheels. Michigan roads are so bad that I cracked (not bent, straight up cracked!) one of the factory wheels on my wife's Tahoe a few years back.
Got home and swapped my summer wheels for my winters and was able to see how bad the damage was to the wheel. It's bad. Real bad. I also don't know what's all over the inside of the rim because the other three are perfectly clean aside from brake dust (they're ceramic coated and were washed yesterday). It's grease or maybe accumulated road grime that was in the pothole or drainage duct I ran over.
It's still holding air too which is amazing on it's own. The drive home from work was not fun. It hit a bad resonance frequency between 38-42 but smoothed out reasonable around 48-50. It was noticeable at all speeds really and I felt terrible driving in such a state.
I took a quick drive with the winter wheels on and everything feels fine. Alignment seems good but I'll keep an eye on that and may just get one to be safe.
Is $500 for spark plugs (2016 forester right at 60k) crazy? It seems crazy.
Spark plugs suck in Subarus because of the boxer layout but that's still double what I would pay for someone to do plugs + wires.
Are you at the dealer?
+3
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited November 2020
If they are doing a FULL 60k mile maintenance as laid out below, then $500 is fine.
Replace engine oil, filter and drain plug washer
Inspect and adjust all drive belts to factory specifications
Inspect and ensure cooling fan is operating within factory specifications
Replace transmission fluid with Subaru High Performance Fluid, if applicable
Check to ensure air conditioning and heating systems are operating within factory specifications
Rotate tires, inspect tread wear and check and adjust tire pressure as needed
Perform brake system inspection pads and/or drums, lines, hoses and fluid
Inspect suspension system and steering components to ensure factory specifications
Service battery, clean terminals, install anti-corrosion pads and check battery condition
Inspect wiper blades and linkage operation
Lubricate all door, trunk and hood latches and hinges if needed
Inspect exhaust system and heat shields
Replace front and rear differential fluid
Inspect radiator and cooling system
Replace engine coolant and test protection levels, if applicable
Adjust emergency brake to within factory specifications as needed
Replace air filter element
Inspect steering operation, tie rod ends and steering rack guides per factory specifications
Inspect all engine and transmission mounts
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels as needed
Check all interior and exterior lighting operation
Replace brake fluid
Replace spark plugs
If they are doing a FULL 60k mile maintenance as laid out below, then $500 is fine.
Replace engine oil, filter and drain plug washer
Inspect and adjust all drive belts to factory specifications
Inspect and ensure cooling fan is operating within factory specifications
Replace transmission fluid with Subaru High Performance Fluid, if applicable
Check to ensure air conditioning and heating systems are operating within factory specifications
Rotate tires, inspect tread wear and check and adjust tire pressure as needed
Perform brake system inspection pads and/or drums, lines, hoses and fluid
Inspect suspension system and steering components to ensure factory specifications
Service battery, clean terminals, install anti-corrosion pads and check battery condition
Inspect wiper blades and linkage operation
Lubricate all door, trunk and hood latches and hinges if needed
Inspect exhaust system and heat shields
Replace front and rear differential fluid
Inspect radiator and cooling system
Replace engine coolant and test protection levels, if applicable
Adjust emergency brake to within factory specifications as needed
Replace air filter element
Inspect steering operation, tie rod ends and steering rack guides per factory specifications
Inspect all engine and transmission mounts
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels as needed
Check all interior and exterior lighting operation
Replace brake fluid
Replace spark plugs
No, the full quote is more $ and less work than that.
If they are doing a FULL 60k mile maintenance as laid out below, then $500 is fine.
Replace engine oil, filter and drain plug washer
Inspect and adjust all drive belts to factory specifications
Inspect and ensure cooling fan is operating within factory specifications
Replace transmission fluid with Subaru High Performance Fluid, if applicable
Check to ensure air conditioning and heating systems are operating within factory specifications
Rotate tires, inspect tread wear and check and adjust tire pressure as needed
Perform brake system inspection pads and/or drums, lines, hoses and fluid
Inspect suspension system and steering components to ensure factory specifications
Service battery, clean terminals, install anti-corrosion pads and check battery condition
Inspect wiper blades and linkage operation
Lubricate all door, trunk and hood latches and hinges if needed
Inspect exhaust system and heat shields
Replace front and rear differential fluid
Inspect radiator and cooling system
Replace engine coolant and test protection levels, if applicable
Adjust emergency brake to within factory specifications as needed
Replace air filter element
Inspect steering operation, tie rod ends and steering rack guides per factory specifications
Inspect all engine and transmission mounts
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels as needed
Check all interior and exterior lighting operation
Replace brake fluid
Replace spark plugs
Still a tad high for mostly check boxes but I would agree that's probably not ridiculous for a certified 60k checkup.
(go to about 3:45 to skip all the fluff about Subaru and the previous generation car)
My initial impression is that I like the look of it (although it's very Mazda), and with the torque peak now at 3400 RPM instead of 6500 RPM, it should be way more fun to drive.
And now I want a little sporty something again after I pay off my truck...
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Yeah my bet is that after all the discussion around the torque dip in the old engine's power curve, they've focused on eliminating that entirely with camshaft and exhaust design, and engine management tuning - it should have a beautifully smooth power curve with this "new" engine.
0
Nova_CI have the needThe need for speedRegistered Userregular
There's a BRZ down the street from where I live and it's one of the most attractive cars on the road up here. I really, really like it.
In fact, it would have probably been my next car if there was an AWD turbo option. But I guess that would basically destroy their WRX sales, so, I can see why not.
But no AWD is a deal breaker for where I live (The person that owns it down the street puts it away for the winter. I've got no where to store a second vehicle, so I don't have that option available to me).
That engine is still anemic. We have an 86 as a trainer at work, and while it’s a lot of fun to wind out around a handling course, it is slow as shit in a straight line. For the same price, the 4 cylinder Camaro and Mustang offer much more power without a huge weight penalty.
They have a turbo FA24 already! Why isn’t there an option for it?
I wonder if they fixed the complete lack of side/rear visibility, I test drove one a couple years ago and changing lanes on the freeway at night was....scary.
That engine is still anemic. We have an 86 as a trainer at work, and while it’s a lot of fun to wind out around a handling course, it is slow as shit in a straight line. For the same price, the 4 cylinder Camaro and Mustang offer much more power without a huge weight penalty.
They have a turbo FA24 already! Why isn’t there an option for it?
So the new BRZ is about 165 hp per ton, the turbo mustang is 172HP per ton. The weight difference between the two is between 600/700lbs, that's a huge weight difference, especially when it comes to handling. And the dimensions are far off too, the BRZ is smaller in every measurement (the BRZ is the current model, which the new one is like an inch longer and and inch lower).
current BRZ Dimensions: 167″ L x 70″ W x 52″ H
Mustang Dimensions: 188″ L x 75″ W x 54-55″ H
I love the Mustangs, and still want the v8 version, but they are very different cars. The BRZ is a pure sports coup, while the Mustang is a muscle car that technology has allowed to dip it's toes into the sports coup market.
That engine is still anemic. We have an 86 as a trainer at work, and while it’s a lot of fun to wind out around a handling course, it is slow as shit in a straight line. For the same price, the 4 cylinder Camaro and Mustang offer much more power without a huge weight penalty.
They have a turbo FA24 already! Why isn’t there an option for it?
Yeah, I had no intention of going from 170 hp in my Impreza to 200 hp in the BRZ when I had options like what I ended up with before me (Q60S, 400 hp).
That engine is still anemic. We have an 86 as a trainer at work, and while it’s a lot of fun to wind out around a handling course, it is slow as shit in a straight line. For the same price, the 4 cylinder Camaro and Mustang offer much more power without a huge weight penalty.
They have a turbo FA24 already! Why isn’t there an option for it?
So the new BRZ is about 165 hp per ton, the turbo mustang is 172HP per ton. The weight difference between the two is between 600/700lbs, that's a huge weight difference, especially when it comes to handling. And the dimensions are far off too, the BRZ is smaller in every measurement (the BRZ is the current model, which the new one is like an inch longer and and inch lower).
current BRZ Dimensions: 167″ L x 70″ W x 52″ H
Mustang Dimensions: 188″ L x 75″ W x 54-55″ H
I love the Mustangs, and still want the v8 version, but they are very different cars. The BRZ is a pure sports coup, while the Mustang is a muscle car that technology has allowed to dip it's toes into the sports coup market.
Hmm, you’re right, the Mustang is a lot heavier than I thought. At the same time though, the hp/lb numbers don’t tell the whole story. The Mustang puts out a whopping 350 lb-ft of torque to the Subaru’s 180. That’s roughly double, and torque is what you feel when you drop the hammer on an on ramp.
That engine is still anemic. We have an 86 as a trainer at work, and while it’s a lot of fun to wind out around a handling course, it is slow as shit in a straight line. For the same price, the 4 cylinder Camaro and Mustang offer much more power without a huge weight penalty.
They have a turbo FA24 already! Why isn’t there an option for it?
So the new BRZ is about 165 hp per ton, the turbo mustang is 172HP per ton. The weight difference between the two is between 600/700lbs, that's a huge weight difference, especially when it comes to handling. And the dimensions are far off too, the BRZ is smaller in every measurement (the BRZ is the current model, which the new one is like an inch longer and and inch lower).
current BRZ Dimensions: 167″ L x 70″ W x 52″ H
Mustang Dimensions: 188″ L x 75″ W x 54-55″ H
I love the Mustangs, and still want the v8 version, but they are very different cars. The BRZ is a pure sports coup, while the Mustang is a muscle car that technology has allowed to dip it's toes into the sports coup market.
Hmm, you’re right, the Mustang is a lot heavier than I thought. At the same time though, the hp/lb numbers don’t tell the whole story. The Mustang puts out a whopping 350 lb-ft of torque to the Subaru’s 180. That’s roughly double, and torque is what you feel when you drop the hammer on an on ramp.
Right, horsepower is a "synthetic" number, it's just torque x RPM / 5252. The BRZ engine runs to a higher RPM than the Ecoboost so it can get "deceptively" high HP numbers even with its lower torque if you really wrap it out. The BRZ hits its HP peak around 7000 RPM, just 500 RPM short of redline. The Ecoboost Mustang hits peak HP around 5000 RPM, 1500 RPM short of redline. But with more typical driving behavior at around 3000 RPM, the BRZ has only 80 HP whereas the Ecoboost Mustang has about 180 HP.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
+2
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
That engine is still anemic. We have an 86 as a trainer at work, and while it’s a lot of fun to wind out around a handling course, it is slow as shit in a straight line. For the same price, the 4 cylinder Camaro and Mustang offer much more power without a huge weight penalty.
They have a turbo FA24 already! Why isn’t there an option for it?
Subaru claims the FA24 turbo engine has the turbocharger situated right where the crossmember is in the new BRZ, thus the turbo engine is "not compatible".
I'm just wondering how many hours, not days - hours, it will be from release to the first aftermarket turbocharged new BRZ to hit the street. You know there's going to be about 500 people picking one up from the dealer and driving it straight into a workshop...
+2
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
That engine is still anemic. We have an 86 as a trainer at work, and while it’s a lot of fun to wind out around a handling course, it is slow as shit in a straight line. For the same price, the 4 cylinder Camaro and Mustang offer much more power without a huge weight penalty.
They have a turbo FA24 already! Why isn’t there an option for it?
So the new BRZ is about 165 hp per ton, the turbo mustang is 172HP per ton. The weight difference between the two is between 600/700lbs, that's a huge weight difference, especially when it comes to handling. And the dimensions are far off too, the BRZ is smaller in every measurement (the BRZ is the current model, which the new one is like an inch longer and and inch lower).
current BRZ Dimensions: 167″ L x 70″ W x 52″ H
Mustang Dimensions: 188″ L x 75″ W x 54-55″ H
I love the Mustangs, and still want the v8 version, but they are very different cars. The BRZ is a pure sports coup, while the Mustang is a muscle car that technology has allowed to dip it's toes into the sports coup market.
Hmm, you’re right, the Mustang is a lot heavier than I thought. At the same time though, the hp/lb numbers don’t tell the whole story. The Mustang puts out a whopping 350 lb-ft of torque to the Subaru’s 180. That’s roughly double, and torque is what you feel when you drop the hammer on an on ramp.
Right, horsepower is a "synthetic" number, it's just torque x RPM / 5252. The BRZ engine runs to a higher RPM than the Ecoboost so it can get "deceptively" high HP numbers even with its lower torque if you really wrap it out. The BRZ hits its HP peak around 7000 RPM, just 500 RPM short of redline. The Ecoboost Mustang hits peak HP around 5000 RPM, 1500 RPM short of redline. But with more typical driving behavior at around 3000 RPM, the BRZ has only 80 HP whereas the Ecoboost Mustang has about 180 HP.
Peak torque in the new model BRZ is a couple of thousand RPM lower than in the old model. Expect a much beefier torque curve to liven the car up, goodness knows they will have been busting their arses tuning cams and exhausts to get rid of that torque dip at 4000 RPM the old model had.
So I keep seeing Broncos all around and thinking damn did Ford do a good job on the Escape.
But every time I think this thing is a Land Rover something until it gets close enough to say 'oh yeah, bronco'.
Ford did a fantastic job on this SUV. They look so very good.
I want a bronco styled small truck. I LOVE they styling and tech, but I really do need that pickup bed unless I want to haul a trailer around everywhere.
I have yet to see a Bronco in person, but they look cool and fun as hell in pictures and are my current "If I have the money and can justify it in 3-4 years when I'm in the market" dream car.
Not sure I can justify actually commuting in it with that gas mileage though.
Posts
At least in my Celica I could sit comfortably (except when I was wearing a helmet).
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
6'3 and currently around 240lbs - i'm a giant for a miata :P My Golf R however is quite comfortable and very very zoomy.
So jealous.....
I'm 6 even and I don't fit in much either. Honda Civics after 2008, Corollas until this latest generation, I hardly fit in my Mustang - I slouch a lot to fit in. I don't fit in many seats either.
Depending on the car it makes a big difference if you are long legged, long torso or split even.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Yeah, I'm long torso, and the Q60 is pretty borderline. I could never put the car on the track because there's no way I could have a helmet on and sit in the cockpit.
Someone more split, or long legged would probably fit a lot more reasonably.
My XF is plenty capable of accommodating someone significantly taller than me. I can get everything so it's a very uncomfortable stretch to reach, and can lower the seat so much I can't see safely out of it.
The only car I remember not actually fitting in at all was a Chrysler Crossfire. And it was a fairly tight fit in a Porsche Boxster as well when I tried one out - it had less space than the Miata (I had that at the time so direct comparison was easy). But I'm pretty forgiving, I don't mind a snug car.
Steam | XBL
Weird, I tried an NB and my eyeliner was even with the top of the windshield as a 5'10 long torso
Steam | XBL
It's a bent wheel. The mechanic moved it to the back axel but I'll be needing to buy a new wheel this Spring. I'll see how bad or noticeable the vibration is on the way home tonight, but I'll likely just be putting my snow wheels on sooner than I planned to. The alignment might even be off so I'll have keep an eye on how it's tracking and steering too.
I know fixing the wheel is an option but when a new one is $225 (Enkei TM7) from Tire Rack that makes more sense to me.
Bent suspension generally would not cause a vibration, it would tend to cause problems with tracking straight down the road or turning. Damaged tire, bent rim lip, bent rim hub, bent axle/bearing hub would be the likely order of possibilities for them to check. It could even be something as simple as a balancing weight fell off the wheel.
I've hit a large pothole at night at freeway speed before that bent the front rim and blew out the tire and dented the rear rim. It didn't do anything to the suspension parts.
Lol get two new wheels of a different style and put them on the back axle so you can be a real drifty boi! Enkei Kojins have the right kind of look, and you can even get them plastidipped neon green and start making everyone call you "Takumi"!
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
I took a quick drive with the winter wheels on and everything feels fine. Alignment seems good but I'll keep an eye on that and may just get one to be safe.
Spark plugs suck in Subarus because of the boxer layout but that's still double what I would pay for someone to do plugs + wires.
Are you at the dealer?
Inspect and adjust all drive belts to factory specifications
Inspect and ensure cooling fan is operating within factory specifications
Replace transmission fluid with Subaru High Performance Fluid, if applicable
Check to ensure air conditioning and heating systems are operating within factory specifications
Rotate tires, inspect tread wear and check and adjust tire pressure as needed
Perform brake system inspection pads and/or drums, lines, hoses and fluid
Inspect suspension system and steering components to ensure factory specifications
Service battery, clean terminals, install anti-corrosion pads and check battery condition
Inspect wiper blades and linkage operation
Lubricate all door, trunk and hood latches and hinges if needed
Inspect exhaust system and heat shields
Replace front and rear differential fluid
Inspect radiator and cooling system
Replace engine coolant and test protection levels, if applicable
Adjust emergency brake to within factory specifications as needed
Replace air filter element
Inspect steering operation, tie rod ends and steering rack guides per factory specifications
Inspect all engine and transmission mounts
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels as needed
Check all interior and exterior lighting operation
Replace brake fluid
Replace spark plugs
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Firestone.
No, the full quote is more $ and less work than that.
Sounds like a pass, then.
Still a tad high for mostly check boxes but I would agree that's probably not ridiculous for a certified 60k checkup.
https://youtu.be/TEphlYS2oXs
(go to about 3:45 to skip all the fluff about Subaru and the previous generation car)
My initial impression is that I like the look of it (although it's very Mazda), and with the torque peak now at 3400 RPM instead of 6500 RPM, it should be way more fun to drive.
And now I want a little sporty something again after I pay off my truck...
In fact, it would have probably been my next car if there was an AWD turbo option. But I guess that would basically destroy their WRX sales, so, I can see why not.
But no AWD is a deal breaker for where I live (The person that owns it down the street puts it away for the winter. I've got no where to store a second vehicle, so I don't have that option available to me).
They have a turbo FA24 already! Why isn’t there an option for it?
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
So the new BRZ is about 165 hp per ton, the turbo mustang is 172HP per ton. The weight difference between the two is between 600/700lbs, that's a huge weight difference, especially when it comes to handling. And the dimensions are far off too, the BRZ is smaller in every measurement (the BRZ is the current model, which the new one is like an inch longer and and inch lower).
current BRZ Dimensions: 167″ L x 70″ W x 52″ H
Mustang Dimensions: 188″ L x 75″ W x 54-55″ H
I love the Mustangs, and still want the v8 version, but they are very different cars. The BRZ is a pure sports coup, while the Mustang is a muscle car that technology has allowed to dip it's toes into the sports coup market.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Yeah, I had no intention of going from 170 hp in my Impreza to 200 hp in the BRZ when I had options like what I ended up with before me (Q60S, 400 hp).
Hmm, you’re right, the Mustang is a lot heavier than I thought. At the same time though, the hp/lb numbers don’t tell the whole story. The Mustang puts out a whopping 350 lb-ft of torque to the Subaru’s 180. That’s roughly double, and torque is what you feel when you drop the hammer on an on ramp.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
Right, horsepower is a "synthetic" number, it's just torque x RPM / 5252. The BRZ engine runs to a higher RPM than the Ecoboost so it can get "deceptively" high HP numbers even with its lower torque if you really wrap it out. The BRZ hits its HP peak around 7000 RPM, just 500 RPM short of redline. The Ecoboost Mustang hits peak HP around 5000 RPM, 1500 RPM short of redline. But with more typical driving behavior at around 3000 RPM, the BRZ has only 80 HP whereas the Ecoboost Mustang has about 180 HP.
Subaru claims the FA24 turbo engine has the turbocharger situated right where the crossmember is in the new BRZ, thus the turbo engine is "not compatible".
I'm just wondering how many hours, not days - hours, it will be from release to the first aftermarket turbocharged new BRZ to hit the street. You know there's going to be about 500 people picking one up from the dealer and driving it straight into a workshop...
Peak torque in the new model BRZ is a couple of thousand RPM lower than in the old model. Expect a much beefier torque curve to liven the car up, goodness knows they will have been busting their arses tuning cams and exhausts to get rid of that torque dip at 4000 RPM the old model had.
But every time I think this thing is a Land Rover something until it gets close enough to say 'oh yeah, bronco'.
Ford did a fantastic job on this SUV. They look so very good.
I want a bronco styled small truck. I LOVE they styling and tech, but I really do need that pickup bed unless I want to haul a trailer around everywhere.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Not sure I can justify actually commuting in it with that gas mileage though.
And now I want a first gen Rabbit Pickup.
No badges outside of course, but the steering wheel had a blank Ford oval.
:edit: apparently it's the Ford Maverick.