Did a Slaves to Darkness test. Bloody weapons or leave it clean? It feels like it doesn't fit with the rest of the model. I thought about doing splashes of blood in the snow but Im not sure how to best go about that.
Did a Slaves to Darkness test. Bloody weapons or leave it clean? It feels like it doesn't fit with the rest of the model. I thought about doing splashes of blood in the snow but Im not sure how to best go about that.
The blood is too red and even I think. I haven't done any myself but good blood splatter uses not only reds but browns and black. And if it's very red and fresh it probably could use some gloss.
Besides using special paints like the GW technical or Tamiya clear red, a mix of glossy washes and inks should probably work well.
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
The issue with the blood is that it's only on the axe, which kind of implies that the source was maybe an execution? Otherwise, there should be some splattered on the armor, in the snow, on his face, etc.
Continuing to try and work from art rather than pics of other minis, this time with my Death Guard modeled after the Lords of Silence cover by Johan Grenier, and Poxwalkers from their codex art.
I think I'm pretty close. The poxwalker is done completely with oils, which was a fun learning experience.
Fair points everyone thanks. That is the blood for the blood god paint but yeah it’s definitely too concentrated. Might just stick to the clean route.
You can take blood for the blood god on a drybrush and drag it across something straight and rigid (xacto knife, mold line remover, etc) to get a very realistic blood splatter effect. Go close up and heavy for a contact point like on a weapon, then further away and lighter for cast-off/spray patterns
They're soft plastic yeah? A heat gun should work. Alternatively try immersing it in hot water and seeing if that makes it more malleable before breaking out the clippers.
Heat in near-boiling water for a minute, then repose, then dunk in ice water for several minutes to re-set the plastic in the new position.
Finished painting up another underworlds warband, took roughly a month.
Hardest part was deciding on which browns to use for all the different areas, and trying to still keep them distinct on the model, beastmen didnt feel to me to be a colourful type of warband.
So as I mentioned in the 40k thread, I won TOs Choice for Best Painted at the tournament I was painting the Raptors for.
It's a sick trophy. If I plug it in it lights up!
Finished the rest of the warriors squad. The start collecting box is a test whether this is even a fun army to paint, now to see what this Be'lakor reveal leads to...
Just a terminator stormbolter arm. I cut off the bolter and made the gun from a tau plasma rifle and multimelta, with some other gubbin for the handle. As far as gravis go, eradicators and heavy intercessors booth look way better than aggressors, but I'm not really a fan of the awkward melta rifle grips.
EDIT: oh sorry, LEFT arm. It's a grey knight (i think) apothecary arm with the blades and syringes cut off and a chaos smoke launcher tip to make... iunno, a laser designator or something?
On the subject of death guard. Kitbashed a fleshmower Bloat Drone from a Dark Imperium one and some leftover Penitent engine parts.
Still messing around with oil paints (the dead flesh on the back) and I think I overdid the glow effect, but I can't fix it without repainting the entire upper front of the model
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited February 2021
Finally received my Instant Color pledge from Scale75. 3 months in Transit, with a good chunk of that sitting in the US stuck in customs hell. Everything arrived in pretty good shape! Going to start on a Wizkids D&D 5e frost giant tonight, see how they perform. I also got a full selection of regular colors and a copper/bronze metals pack. I also already have their inks and steel series metals already.
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Double posting because I started painting tonight. Definitely a different experience using the instant paints. They are for sure not for big flat surfaces. Also if you want the color, you gotta pick the dropper that is almost black, otherwise you're getting a MUCH lighter shade. Overall though it's laying down pretty well on the wiz-kids model, which was a coin flip since it has its own primer, and not Scale75's.
I think after this the Instant Paints will be saved for medium/small minis I'm trying to knock out fast. Big models and Hero characters will get the regular paint/wash/highlight passes.
New skaven models going in a very different direction
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I think my favorite part of painting a mini is when you are starting to do the fine details, and coming back and cleaning up the little over the line mistakes. Getting everything nice and tidy. It's when the model is really starting to come together. It's the point when you look at it, and the finished result is apparent, even though it isn't actually complete yet. I'm just about there with this Frost Giant, and even though he was a practice piece for the Instant Color paints and I'm not doing a ton of touch up, the theme is coming through and overall it doesn't look too bad. It'll make a good table piece.
I think my favorite part of painting a mini is when you are starting to do the fine details, and coming back and cleaning up the little over the line mistakes. Getting everything nice and tidy. It's when the model is really starting to come together. It's the point when you look at it, and the finished result is apparent, even though it isn't actually complete yet. I'm just about there with this Frost Giant, and even though he was a practice piece for the Instant Color paints and I'm not doing a ton of touch up, the theme is coming through and overall it doesn't look too bad. It'll make a good table piece.
What's the instant color thing, anyway? Is it like GW contrast?
Yeah, but with mainly more muted colours compared to the more intense contrast versions
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
edited March 2021
Calling these guys done (save the rims and a few minor details)
Vanguard on
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
I think I like collecting the tools to paint more than actual painting. I know I shouldn't, but maybe someone here would be interested...
On the Power Rangers minis facebook group, someone linked a Tattoo ink stirrer. Basically a vortex stirrer that you press a bottle against and it mixes paints. It appears to work EXTREMELY well for acrylics. It is expensive though, retailing for $140.. but the link/ad says half off. I'm super suspicious of things like that, but the device itself seemed really cool.
.... and doing some more research, I found the video that the facebook ad stole from (as they often do). The price is also cheaper here, and looking on YouTube there are a lot of options.
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I would understand a tool like that for someone with a mobility impairment or doing this as a full-time job, but that seems like a big cost for a fairly minor time saver overall? If they were like ~$30 sure I would understand us all buying them, but >$100 is on par with another airbrush or something.
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Hmmmm. Should I hit the metallic parts of my Frost Giant with gloss varnish or not. I just sprayed him down with Army painter Anti-Shine Matte varnish, and it dulled him down nicely. The metal parts are still glittery, but do I want to make them really pop with a gloss top coat? Decisions decisions.
Hmmmm. Should I hit the metallic parts of my Frost Giant with gloss varnish or not. I just sprayed him down with Army painter Anti-Shine Matte varnish, and it dulled him down nicely. The metal parts are still glittery, but do I want to make them really pop with a gloss top coat? Decisions decisions.
Personal opinion only, but I've found that gloss varnish on metallics doesn't really make it look more metallic, it just looks glittery and glossy. I don't like how it looks when compared to the rest of the model being matte.
I think I like collecting the tools to paint more than actual painting. I know I shouldn't, but maybe someone here would be interested...
On the Power Rangers minis facebook group, someone linked a Tattoo ink stirrer. Basically a vortex stirrer that you press a bottle against and it mixes paints. It appears to work EXTREMELY well for acrylics. It is expensive though, retailing for $140.. but the link/ad says half off. I'm super suspicious of things like that, but the device itself seemed really cool.
.... and doing some more research, I found the video that the facebook ad stole from (as they often do). The price is also cheaper here, and looking on YouTube there are a lot of options.
Same here. I go through a lot of Mephiston Red spray because it's the main base color for my Marine army. GW's sprays are stupid expensive, but they're great. Just stay away from Corax White, it's dogshit in a can. Go with Wraithbone or Gray Seer and work up from there if you want white.
On a related note, a free paint stirrer from your local hardware store and some double sided tape is the easiest way to make a spraystick, but GW's product works pretty well too, especially if you're going to be spraying more than a unit or two at a time.
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The blood is too red and even I think. I haven't done any myself but good blood splatter uses not only reds but browns and black. And if it's very red and fresh it probably could use some gloss.
Besides using special paints like the GW technical or Tamiya clear red, a mix of glossy washes and inks should probably work well.
The issue with the blood is that it's only on the axe, which kind of implies that the source was maybe an execution? Otherwise, there should be some splattered on the armor, in the snow, on his face, etc.
Awesome model and paintjob.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
I think I'm pretty close. The poxwalker is done completely with oils, which was a fun learning experience.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
You can take blood for the blood god on a drybrush and drag it across something straight and rigid (xacto knife, mold line remover, etc) to get a very realistic blood splatter effect. Go close up and heavy for a contact point like on a weapon, then further away and lighter for cast-off/spray patterns
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Thanks for the tips.
Before:
After:
Hardest part was deciding on which browns to use for all the different areas, and trying to still keep them distinct on the model, beastmen didnt feel to me to be a colourful type of warband.
MWO: Adamski
It's a sick trophy. If I plug it in it lights up!
Where's his left arm from?
Just a terminator stormbolter arm. I cut off the bolter and made the gun from a tau plasma rifle and multimelta, with some other gubbin for the handle. As far as gravis go, eradicators and heavy intercessors booth look way better than aggressors, but I'm not really a fan of the awkward melta rifle grips.
EDIT: oh sorry, LEFT arm. It's a grey knight (i think) apothecary arm with the blades and syringes cut off and a chaos smoke launcher tip to make... iunno, a laser designator or something?
Then scaled up and printed some custom parts from Thingiverse
Decided on these parts, now to prime him!
Oh damn, where’d you find the bust file?
I don't want to link to it directly, but it was made by someone named "Jotage83". That should be enough to find it online.
Got some base coats down today
Today’s progress shot - did the orange horns, will probably redo the ones in front as they veered away from the orange a little
Going to push to finish these this weekend
Bonus shot of what I did this morning
Still messing around with oil paints (the dead flesh on the back) and I think I overdid the glow effect, but I can't fix it without repainting the entire upper front of the model
Gotta be more careful next time.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I think after this the Instant Paints will be saved for medium/small minis I'm trying to knock out fast. Big models and Hero characters will get the regular paint/wash/highlight passes.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
New skaven models going in a very different direction
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
What's the instant color thing, anyway? Is it like GW contrast?
Calling these guys done (save the rims and a few minor details)
On the Power Rangers minis facebook group, someone linked a Tattoo ink stirrer. Basically a vortex stirrer that you press a bottle against and it mixes paints. It appears to work EXTREMELY well for acrylics. It is expensive though, retailing for $140.. but the link/ad says half off. I'm super suspicious of things like that, but the device itself seemed really cool.
.... and doing some more research, I found the video that the facebook ad stole from (as they often do). The price is also cheaper here, and looking on YouTube there are a lot of options.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Personal opinion only, but I've found that gloss varnish on metallics doesn't really make it look more metallic, it just looks glittery and glossy. I don't like how it looks when compared to the rest of the model being matte.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
That finger is so long it’s freaking me out.
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
On a related note, a free paint stirrer from your local hardware store and some double sided tape is the easiest way to make a spraystick, but GW's product works pretty well too, especially if you're going to be spraying more than a unit or two at a time.