ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
I fucking hate orbi. They're finicky to set up, the satellites lose connection for no good reason, they're just annoying. The speed is pretty good on them when they work, but bleh.
I would start by factory resetting the Google WiFi system you have. What are you connecting them to for internet? Do you have your own modem or are you using the isp gateway?
I fucking hate orbi. They're finicky to set up, the satellites lose connection for no good reason, they're just annoying. The speed is pretty good on them when they work, but bleh.
I would start by factory resetting the Google WiFi system you have. What are you connecting them to for internet? Do you have your own modem or are you using the isp gateway?
I got the Orbi RBK50 with a satellite in 2019 and been very pleased with it so far. The only issue I have is that I occasionally have to reboot them to get my work laptop to join wifi every 2-3 months, but I blame the laptop not Orbi since every other device on my network works (pretty sure it's DNS/VPN related).
I went with them because it's supposed to keep itself up to date, and it supported a wired backhaul. Although, at the time, I had to setup it all wireless first, then plug in the ethernet, but I believe they've since improved upon the process. I've even paid for a few years of Netgear Armor, and been satisfied with it, but this year I'm planning to let it expire and roll my own firewall appliance.
My phone, Google Pixel 3, just decided to stop seeing 5G networks. I double checked my router and it's on and my other appropriate devices are on the 5G band, just not my phone.
I've tried forgetting and researching for the 5G SSID, but the phone doesn't register it.
Netgera 74500, I updated the Firmware as well, and so basically this was the chain of events today.
1. Noticed my phone (Google Pixel 3 XL) was on the 2.4 GHz band, not 5Ghz. My wife's phone was the same, so were our iPads. Weirdly enough, our Roku Ultra, Roku Streaming Stick, and the TCL Roku TV were all on 5Ghz as well as our laptops. Checked the router settings, updated firmware. Both bands were on correctly. Rebooted router anyway.
2. Google Pixel 3 still wouldn't connect to 5Ghz. Reset the WiFi settings, connected without issue. This then worked for my wife's phone (Samsung S7) and my wife's iPad. My iPad Pro (12.9 Inch 3rd Gen) will connect to both 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz, but won't access the internet.
3. Can't do a hard reset of that iPad because there's no physical home button and when I select a Factory Reset through the General Settings it just sits at the loading icon without any change. I left it running for an hour and it didn't do anything. I can't do a remote wipe via the iCloud because again, it won't connect to the internet.
4. Installed iTunes and went through an absolute ridiculous number of Power / Volume Button inputs and holds to get it to restore via Itunes. It still wouldn't factory reset.
Well, forty five minutes later and a phone call with Apple Support got everything running. Good Lord, the dude had to do this remote access via iTunes to get it factory reset and now wifi works.
Shot in the dark: could a neighbor have gotten a new router or have you gotten any new neighbors?
Try grabbing a wifi analyzer app and see if maybe another 5GHz signal is interfering with yours. You may just need to move to a different channel that's less crowded.
Shot in the dark: could a neighbor have gotten a new router or have you gotten any new neighbors?
Try grabbing a wifi analyzer app and see if maybe another 5GHz signal is interfering with yours. You may just need to move to a different channel that's less crowded.
Hey you're totally right. There's a Hidden SSID on the exact same channel as my 5Ghz about 30meters from my house.
If I change the channel of my 5GHz band, do I have to reconnect with every single device or will that be done automatically.
I am in the business of saving lives.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
I've seen homes where everything connects and works just fine, but a new device won't connect. Rebooting the router made the device crash and never recover so they had to replace the router. Others that work fine until a certain combination of devices come online and then others don't work anymore. Where whenever a TV runs Netflix the router becomes convinced that it's suffering a DDOS and shuts itself down. The above could but be more true.
Shot in the dark: could a neighbor have gotten a new router or have you gotten any new neighbors?
Try grabbing a wifi analyzer app and see if maybe another 5GHz signal is interfering with yours. You may just need to move to a different channel that's less crowded.
If you're looking for a good wifi analyzer, WiFiMan from ubiquiti is beautiful.
Shot in the dark: could a neighbor have gotten a new router or have you gotten any new neighbors?
Try grabbing a wifi analyzer app and see if maybe another 5GHz signal is interfering with yours. You may just need to move to a different channel that's less crowded.
Hey you're totally right. There's a Hidden SSID on the exact same channel as my 5Ghz about 30meters from my house.
If I change the channel of my 5GHz band, do I have to reconnect with every single device or will that be done automatically.
We just bought a new build townhome and I'm curious what folks would recommend for wiring? Looking online, it seems future proofing a bit with 8K is only 300 Mbs/s. Cat 6A still does 10Gbps/s, so I'm guessing no need to look at fiber, Cat 7 or Cat 8?
Origin ID\ Steam ID: Warder45
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
We just bought a new build townhome and I'm curious what folks would recommend for wiring? Looking online, it seems future proofing a bit with 8K is only 300 Mbs/s. Cat 6A still does 10Gbps/s, so I'm guessing no need to look at fiber, Cat 7 or Cat 8?
Yeah, there's really no need to go beyond Cat 6A. The price difference is pretty crazy and you're not going to need to worry about speeds like that for a long long time.
I think I said something in this thread previously but I'm once again looking into adding ethernet to our second floor. I'm trying to avoid adding a receptacle in the attic so does anyone have experience with PoE powered switches?
My plan is to add an injector to my setup in the basement and run one cable to the attic (short version is I can use an old coax run to pull in Cat 5/6 all the way to the attic). Then the PoE powered Switch can run down to rooms from the attic.
My setup in the house uses all Netgear so I'd like to stay with them.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
If it's just a switch it doesn't matter what brand you use, it's just a dumb box hooking up other devices.
OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
Managed switches offer options if you want to segment your network to keep work computers from talking to home computers and their ilk. But that’s something most people don’t give a shit about.
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
edited March 2021
If I’m doing a new build I’d also consider installing cat8 to not have to think about it for 10-20 years. The price differential is nothing compared to the pain in the ass of installation and replacement.
IMO.
edit: if not at least do Cat 6A so you've got 100m 10gig ethernet as an option in 5-10 years when prices drop enough to not be a completely niche option.
So a while ago I mentioned my Google Wifi having issues with disconnects... It turns out it was one of the pods. I tried moving the one I suspected upstairs and whenever my phone connected to it I kept disconnecting. So I bought a new one assuming I'd probably end up returning it. A day later I never saw a single disconnect.
I wish their self diagnostic would have told me that. I dealt with the disconnects for a full 6-10 months.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
That's the only thing I've been frustrated about with the consumer mesh stuff. Troubleshooting is pretty annoying.
I picked up a new Netgear PoE passthrough switch on eBay for $30. Planning to use it to run bog standard ethernet to bedrooms. Do I need to do anything to "safe" the outgoing PoE ports?
Edit: I'm going to add an injector at my main switch in the basement, then use a Cat 6 run to the attic to power (and data) the switch for the rooms.
Update:
I still can't get a good answer for this. If I use a PoE Injector to power a PoE passthrough switch, do I need to add a PoE splitter for the end users? In other words, do I need to add the circled part to keep from frying the NIC of the "Upstairs Computer"?
Update:
I still can't get a good answer for this. If I use a PoE Injector to power a PoE passthrough switch, do I need to add a PoE splitter for the end users? In other words, do I need to add the circled part to keep from frying the NIC of the "Upstairs Computer"?
The PoE injector just powers the PoE passthrough switch. PoE endpoint devices are powered by the switch ports. Non-PoE endpoint devices like your PC won't enable power delivery on the ports. That is, it's perfectly safe to plug your PC into a PoE enabled switch port. You don't need any splitters.
The only reason to use a PoE splitter is for a non-PoE device that is normally powered via an AC outlet (wall wart). The splitter then provides both data on its Ethernet plug and DC power from the switch port to the splitter's power jack so you don't have to use the AC wall wart to power the device.
This passthrough setup also means your power injector needs to be a high enough wattage to power both the switch and every PoE device plugged into the switch. The most common types of injectors only deliver enough power for a single device. You'll need to look at the specs/manuals to determine the power budget your switch can handle.
Edit: I should caveat the above with it's safe if your switch is standard "active" 802.3af or 802.3at PoE. Some do an always on "passive" PoE that has no device detection and in that case, go into the switch settings and disable the PoE on those PC ports.
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
It looks like the storm that killed my modem also killed my Orbi Satellite. It’s only been two years since I got it. Seeing how much a standalone satellite costs, has me thinking if there’s anything new out there?
I did like my orbi setup, but going through the troubleshooting steps of trying to reconnect the satellite really annoyed me. Had to get the ladder to access and press the “sync” button on the orbi router.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
It looks like the storm that killed my modem also killed my Orbi Satellite. It’s only been two years since I got it. Seeing how much a standalone satellite costs, has me thinking if there’s anything new out there?
I did like my orbi setup, but going through the troubleshooting steps of trying to reconnect the satellite really annoyed me. Had to get the ladder to access and press the “sync” button on the orbi router.
Why do you have it somewhere so inaccessible? Put it on a shelf.
Before you throw it out, try resetting the thing. Grab a paperclip and hold the reset button for like five times longer than Netgear says you should. Then start the setup over. If it still doesn't work, yeah, replacement time.
There are newer and better devices out there for sure, just depends on what you're looking for. I still stand by eero, even after the Amazon purchase, and Google WiFi has continued to work really well. Plume also has some good devices, but they've gone down the weird subscription rabbit hole which I fucking hate.
Edit: TP-Link has some decent mesh systems as well, and they're pretty affordable.
It looks like the storm that killed my modem also killed my Orbi Satellite. It’s only been two years since I got it. Seeing how much a standalone satellite costs, has me thinking if there’s anything new out there?
I did like my orbi setup, but going through the troubleshooting steps of trying to reconnect the satellite really annoyed me. Had to get the ladder to access and press the “sync” button on the orbi router.
Why do you have it somewhere so inaccessible? Put it on a shelf.
Before you throw it out, try resetting the thing. Grab a paperclip and hold the reset button for like five times longer than Netgear says you should. Then start the setup over. If it still doesn't work, yeah, replacement time.
There are newer and better devices out there for sure, just depends on what you're looking for. I still stand by eero, even after the Amazon purchase, and Google WiFi has continued to work really well. Plume also has some good devices, but they've gone down the weird subscription rabbit hole which I fucking hate.
Edit: TP-Link has some decent mesh systems as well, and they're pretty affordable.
It straight up died. It was sitting right next to my modem when it got fried during the storm.
The satellite was convienently located, but to get maximum coverage, I have the router on top of the kitchen cabinets. It perfectly coveres the house and a generous amount of lawn, but the bonus room above the garage gets terrible wifi signal. To be fair, it worked flawlessly for 2 years without me having to get the ladder. Freak lightning strike kinda upsets things.
I'll probably end up just getting a new satellite so I don't have to setup something new. I don't have any WiFi 6 devices, so I don't see a need to upgrade.
I'm with you. My Netgear router is parked on top of my fridge to better cover upstairs
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Weird. I haven't my eeros all in shelves and cabinets, and even with the plaster I get great coverage everywhere, including most of my tiny lawn. But every house is different so anything could be interfering with yours.
New satellite arrived and I didn't have to do anything after connecting it to my upstairs switch. It automatically synced to the router. No idea if it's because I opted for wired backhaul, but no need to climb ladder and press sync button.
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I would start by factory resetting the Google WiFi system you have. What are you connecting them to for internet? Do you have your own modem or are you using the isp gateway?
Well that's some bullshit.
I got the Orbi RBK50 with a satellite in 2019 and been very pleased with it so far. The only issue I have is that I occasionally have to reboot them to get my work laptop to join wifi every 2-3 months, but I blame the laptop not Orbi since every other device on my network works (pretty sure it's DNS/VPN related).
I went with them because it's supposed to keep itself up to date, and it supported a wired backhaul. Although, at the time, I had to setup it all wireless first, then plug in the ethernet, but I believe they've since improved upon the process. I've even paid for a few years of Netgear Armor, and been satisfied with it, but this year I'm planning to let it expire and roll my own firewall appliance.
I've tried forgetting and researching for the 5G SSID, but the phone doesn't register it.
Any ideas?
Today I reset the wireless settings and got my phone to see 5Ghz and connect.
The laptops are on 5Ghz, but the iPads lost it at some point.
Yeah makes me think it's time for a new router.
1. Noticed my phone (Google Pixel 3 XL) was on the 2.4 GHz band, not 5Ghz. My wife's phone was the same, so were our iPads. Weirdly enough, our Roku Ultra, Roku Streaming Stick, and the TCL Roku TV were all on 5Ghz as well as our laptops. Checked the router settings, updated firmware. Both bands were on correctly. Rebooted router anyway.
2. Google Pixel 3 still wouldn't connect to 5Ghz. Reset the WiFi settings, connected without issue. This then worked for my wife's phone (Samsung S7) and my wife's iPad. My iPad Pro (12.9 Inch 3rd Gen) will connect to both 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz, but won't access the internet.
3. Can't do a hard reset of that iPad because there's no physical home button and when I select a Factory Reset through the General Settings it just sits at the loading icon without any change. I left it running for an hour and it didn't do anything. I can't do a remote wipe via the iCloud because again, it won't connect to the internet.
4. Installed iTunes and went through an absolute ridiculous number of Power / Volume Button inputs and holds to get it to restore via Itunes. It still wouldn't factory reset.
I am at a complete loss with this iPad.
It's working now, but why would it drop two android phones and an iPad Pro, but not multiple Rokus, two laptops, and a normal iPad from the 5Ghz band?
It's probably five years old, maybe? Just time for a new one?
Shot in the dark: could a neighbor have gotten a new router or have you gotten any new neighbors?
Try grabbing a wifi analyzer app and see if maybe another 5GHz signal is interfering with yours. You may just need to move to a different channel that's less crowded.
Hey you're totally right. There's a Hidden SSID on the exact same channel as my 5Ghz about 30meters from my house.
If I change the channel of my 5GHz band, do I have to reconnect with every single device or will that be done automatically.
I've seen homes where everything connects and works just fine, but a new device won't connect. Rebooting the router made the device crash and never recover so they had to replace the router. Others that work fine until a certain combination of devices come online and then others don't work anymore. Where whenever a TV runs Netflix the router becomes convinced that it's suffering a DDOS and shuts itself down. The above could but be more true.
If you're looking for a good wifi analyzer, WiFiMan from ubiquiti is beautiful.
Nope it's seamless for downstream devices.
Yeah, there's really no need to go beyond Cat 6A. The price difference is pretty crazy and you're not going to need to worry about speeds like that for a long long time.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
My plan is to add an injector to my setup in the basement and run one cable to the attic (short version is I can use an old coax run to pull in Cat 5/6 all the way to the attic). Then the PoE powered Switch can run down to rooms from the attic.
My setup in the house uses all Netgear so I'd like to stay with them.
IMO.
edit: if not at least do Cat 6A so you've got 100m 10gig ethernet as an option in 5-10 years when prices drop enough to not be a completely niche option.
I wish their self diagnostic would have told me that. I dealt with the disconnects for a full 6-10 months.
Edit: I'm going to add an injector at my main switch in the basement, then use a Cat 6 run to the attic to power (and data) the switch for the rooms.
I still can't get a good answer for this. If I use a PoE Injector to power a PoE passthrough switch, do I need to add a PoE splitter for the end users? In other words, do I need to add the circled part to keep from frying the NIC of the "Upstairs Computer"?
The PoE injector just powers the PoE passthrough switch. PoE endpoint devices are powered by the switch ports. Non-PoE endpoint devices like your PC won't enable power delivery on the ports. That is, it's perfectly safe to plug your PC into a PoE enabled switch port. You don't need any splitters.
The only reason to use a PoE splitter is for a non-PoE device that is normally powered via an AC outlet (wall wart). The splitter then provides both data on its Ethernet plug and DC power from the switch port to the splitter's power jack so you don't have to use the AC wall wart to power the device.
This passthrough setup also means your power injector needs to be a high enough wattage to power both the switch and every PoE device plugged into the switch. The most common types of injectors only deliver enough power for a single device. You'll need to look at the specs/manuals to determine the power budget your switch can handle.
Edit: I should caveat the above with it's safe if your switch is standard "active" 802.3af or 802.3at PoE. Some do an always on "passive" PoE that has no device detection and in that case, go into the switch settings and disable the PoE on those PC ports.
I did like my orbi setup, but going through the troubleshooting steps of trying to reconnect the satellite really annoyed me. Had to get the ladder to access and press the “sync” button on the orbi router.
Why do you have it somewhere so inaccessible? Put it on a shelf.
Before you throw it out, try resetting the thing. Grab a paperclip and hold the reset button for like five times longer than Netgear says you should. Then start the setup over. If it still doesn't work, yeah, replacement time.
There are newer and better devices out there for sure, just depends on what you're looking for. I still stand by eero, even after the Amazon purchase, and Google WiFi has continued to work really well. Plume also has some good devices, but they've gone down the weird subscription rabbit hole which I fucking hate.
Edit: TP-Link has some decent mesh systems as well, and they're pretty affordable.
It straight up died. It was sitting right next to my modem when it got fried during the storm.
The satellite was convienently located, but to get maximum coverage, I have the router on top of the kitchen cabinets. It perfectly coveres the house and a generous amount of lawn, but the bonus room above the garage gets terrible wifi signal. To be fair, it worked flawlessly for 2 years without me having to get the ladder. Freak lightning strike kinda upsets things.
I'll probably end up just getting a new satellite so I don't have to setup something new. I don't have any WiFi 6 devices, so I don't see a need to upgrade.