Yeah, currently I have a PS4 and PC plugged into my current tv, at some point the PS4 will become a next gen system...which I guess takes up 2 2.1 ports. Guess I dont really need more than that? Cant think of any other devices that would really use 2.1, everything else should be fine at 2.0 speeds?
I've got an LG LED TV, from the UK6190 series, from a few years ago. The TV is great, but thanks to cats an a four year old I've got some smudges on the screen. How should I clean the screen? I'm wary of liquid screen cleaners I see on Amazon. LG says to just use a Microfiber cloth. Is that really the best way to clean it? Or is there a Penny Arcade approved method?
Switch Friend Code: SW-4598-4278-8875
3DS Friend Code: 0404-6826-4588 PM if you add.
I always use a microfiber to keep from getting streaks.
I have at times sprayed a tiny amount of window cleaner on the cloth first after sticky kid hands touched the screen with no problems...but not sure if that's a thing to recommend
I've been watching a bunch off youtube videos from tv reviewers and apparently a dry microfiber cloth is the way to go, maybe use your breath if its particularly hard to get off. Apparently thats what they do at Value Electronics which I guess is a big deal retailer in the tv world.
I always use a microfiber to keep from getting streaks.
I have at times sprayed a tiny amount of window cleaner on the cloth first after sticky kid hands touched the screen with no problems...but not sure if that's a thing to recommend
Generally window cleaners have chemicals in them that will eat away the glare coating on monitors and TVs. I don't recommend it. I know it seems like snake oil, but the monitor cleaner fluids are actually the way to go to clean smudges. They do a great job with a microfiber cloth at getting rid of smudges. Otherwise if you're just getting some dust off, a dry swiffer works great.
I always use a microfiber to keep from getting streaks.
I have at times sprayed a tiny amount of window cleaner on the cloth first after sticky kid hands touched the screen with no problems...but not sure if that's a thing to recommend
Generally window cleaners have chemicals in them that will eat away the glare coating on monitors and TVs. I don't recommend it. I know it seems like snake oil, but the monitor cleaner fluids are actually the way to go to clean smudges. They do a great job with a microfiber cloth at getting rid of smudges. Otherwise if you're just getting some dust off, a dry swiffer works great.
This is good to know and glad you clarified before someone tried.
Used to use a microfiber cloth on my wiiu gamepad all the time too. They work great.
So my 77" A80J was delivered yesterday and while I'm still very much in the honeymoon period I'm very pleased with the purchase. Size is big, but not too big (I sit 9.5' from the screen) which was a concern of mine. I was also worried about brightness which seems to be a constant concern with oleds but honestly I havent had an issue. I havent exactly watched anything at noon with all the blinds open either, but thats not something I ever do so no real loss there if it struggles in super bright rooms.
I streamed The Searchers on HBO Max and was very impressed with both the picture quality and SDR brightness, the vista scenes were super impressive.
Watched The Force Awakens in Dolby Vision dark and it also looked great.
Its taking some time getting used to film grain which is something I almost never noticed on any other set, dont know if thats because its a 4k tv or because its an oled...but damn I dont think I like film grain.
EDIT: Also my speaker wiring has yet to burn the place down so thats great, but the rears are pretty quiet and I dont know if thats because I'm using thicker gauge wire than came with the set or if theres a setting I need to tweak on the tv. But the tv is operating as a second center channel so thats nice.
So my 77" A80J was delivered yesterday and while I'm still very much in the honeymoon period I'm very pleased with the purchase. Size is big, but not too big (I sit 9.5' from the screen) which was a concern of mine. I was also worried about brightness which seems to be a constant concern with oleds but honestly I havent had an issue. I havent exactly watched anything at noon with all the blinds open either, but thats not something I ever do so no real loss there if it struggles in super bright rooms.
I streamed The Searchers on HBO Max and was very impressed with both the picture quality and SDR brightness, the vista scenes were super impressive.
Watched The Force Awakens in Dolby Vision dark and it also looked great.
Its taking some time getting used to film grain which is something I almost never noticed on any other set, dont know if thats because its a 4k tv or because its an oled...but damn I dont think I like film grain.
EDIT: Also my speaker wiring has yet to burn the place down so thats great, but the rears are pretty quiet and I dont know if thats because I'm using thicker gauge wire than came with the set or if theres a setting I need to tweak on the tv. But the tv is operating as a second center channel so thats nice.
I can almost guarantee it's something to do with your settings. I used 12 gauge wire when I did my custom setup for no other reason than more power and because I wanted some future proofing if I want to do something stupid like run super low boxes or something.
Okay TV thread, my seven year old Samsung LED is acting weird as fuck. All of a sudden won't recognize remote control inputs (did whole battery replacement, factory reset). The power button on the back of th actual unit doesn't turn it on or off.
I unplugged the unit, it turned off plugged it back in and it turned on without any input from me. It now recognized remote inputs for maybe ten minutes. Then stopped again.
Through all of this, it would not turn off or on via the remote or physical power button, but I could at least get it to open the menu via the remote for short periods of time after unplugging it.
Fucking weird. Right?
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
You can try resetting the TV from the service menu. Turn the thing off, grab your remote, and press MUTE, 1, 8, 2 and then power. That'll open the service menu and you can do a hard reset from there. That sometimes wipes more than what the standard menu does.
You can try resetting the TV from the service menu. Turn the thing off, grab your remote, and press MUTE, 1, 8, 2 and then power. That'll open the service menu and you can do a hard reset from there. That sometimes wipes more than what the standard menu does.
So I did this and it just turns the Factory Reset text red... and just sits there? It doesn't seem to actually reset anything.
EDIT: so it's frozen several times requiring unplugging. It finally reset, froze trying to download the Smart Hub EULA, then again updating software. Unplugged it a third time and at least the little icon is rotating for the software update.
well, got it reset and tried to set up my sound bar when you select "sound settings" the whole display goes black and no longer responds to the remote.
MegaMan001 on
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
And the physical power button still doesn't work. So the television "functions" as in you can use the Roku remote to watch TV, but you can't turn the TV off or on without unplugging it.
This is just the living room TV so I think I'm going to go buy a HiSense model from Costco.
This Samsung is only seven years old but clearly dying.
That raises a question that's been on my mind for a while, how long are tvs supposed to last?
My mom's Sony is from 2008 and while its starting to have issues (I think the edge/backlight is starting to go as a single vertical line of pixels sometimes doesn't turn on) its otherwise totally fine. She's only now itching to upgrade because she saw my tv and that's mostly driven by size not picture quality (even though I'm constantly amazed at how good even 1080p content looks on my TV).
Meanwhile I'm just hoping that my oled lasts long enough for micro led tvs to hit a reasonable price so fingers crossed 7-10 years?
Assume five years and be thankful for every year after.
Yeah that's kinda where my mind was when I bought my tv... And then sprung for the extra warranty (Synthesis' issues also helped push me there). So maybe fingers crossed something goes bad in April 2026 and that repair/replacement gets me to 2031.
Edit: That said 5 years sounds like an incredibly short lifespan. 7 years is about where I start itching to upgrade and 10 years is probably the It's Time time for me and even then the TV that's getting replaced is in my mind being reduced to secondary duty.
I bought my Vizio when my roommates giant box tv was on its last legs (well, wheels) and we were sick of having to turn it off like 10 times before the picture would finally turn off and used to joke I'd use it as a bathroom TV when I finally upgrade to an adult TV because I don't want a TV in my bedroom. And now that 7 year old Vizio sits in a spare bedroom/my bedroom at my mother's house and may get swapped to replace hers if hers suddenly dies.
I'd probably swear off Vizio if the TV only lasted 5 years. At 7 I'd chop it up to being a budget purchase.
For whatever reason I'm more forgiving of oled lifespans, like if mine goes bad in 5 years I kinda figure its the cost of the technology, but for a normal led lcd 7-10 year lifespan minimum.
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
"Normal" LED TVs are the cheap ones now, so include them in the same club. Honestly, I say five years because that's where it appears that most appliances and electronics in general are built for. Ymmv, your stuff could easily last longer, just don't expect it to.
Assume five years and be thankful for every year after.
man my LG aquos 42" is still kicking from 2007 or so. been using it as a gaming display. no issues except the remote has been lost in many many moves. it was my first big purchase after uni that I saved up for and had to get it because of the aquos yellow LCD marketing lol.
Okay, so I have a TV adjacent question, but I think it's a better fit here than the audiophile thread.
I'm planning to grab one of the Samsung HW-Q950A soundbars shortly and wondering the best way to set it up.
Currently have an LG B7 TV (which uses ARC, not EARC) and 3 consoles (PS5, Switch, XSX) plugged into it and everything else handled through the TV apps, had been using optical out from the TV to the previous 5.1 speaker system until that died.
Thinking the best set up will be to grab a HDMI switch so I can run all 3 consoles into the soundbar's 2 inputs, and ARC should be okay for the compressed Atmos used by the streaming services? I was thinking I could plug the Nintendo Switch into the TV, but from memory the TV won't pass through the PCM audio properly. Other option would be to just plug the least used console (Xbox) into the TV and 'settle for' 5.1 output from that over ARC.
I know the PS5 and XSX use HDMI 2.1 and the soundbar doesn't, but either does my TV so no loss there, and when I do eventually upgrade the TV it'll have EARC so I can use that as the hub of the system.
Any thoughts, or things I've missed?
Switch Friend Code: SW-3944-9431-0318
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
You have four HDMI inputs on the TV, and the soundbar will make four devices. I would stay miles away from any switches that might confuse ARC further.
When I finally buy an Xbox Series X, I'm going to have to get an hdmi switcher for my 3 consoles (as the tv has 4 hdmi and the xbox would make 5). Anyone have any suggestions on a good one?
ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
The one you suggested does not appear to support HDMI 2.1 (4K-HDR-60Hz) so if that's why you are getting a Series X it may not suit your needs. In fact, the specs only mention 4K@30hz and don't mention HDR support at all.
After about thirty days I returned th Hisense 50 inch from Costco. The backlight randomly would turn off and leave the screen looking like night vision / Predator vision. All weird neon greens and reds and black.
Also, set up the 50 inch Samsung I just got and BLESSED BE, eArc works! My new Roku Ultra controller can control the TV and Volume all at once so my wife can use it and we don't have to deal with any multiple remotes.
This is the first time I've ever gotten any version of ARC to work and man, feels good.
The one you suggested does not appear to support HDMI 2.1 (4K-HDR-60Hz) so if that's why you are getting a Series X it may not suit your needs. In fact, the specs only mention 4K@30hz and don't mention HDR support at all.
Yeah that's why I posted here. I'm looking for an appropriate hdmi switch and I'm not sure which I'd want. Figured someone here would own one.
edit: It doesn't actually look like switches even support hdmi 2.1. Of course I'm not sure which hdmi ports my LG C9 even has. On top of that, I could certainly move the switch (generic hdmi) and my cable connection (not hdmi 2.1 either) to the hdmi switch and just plug the xbox directly into the tv. It doesn't really matter to me. I guess I'm looking for an hdmi switch that does 4k@60hz with hdr support?
edit2: I guess all 4 hdmi ports on a C9 are hdmi 2.1. But it still probably makes sense to just plug the xbox in directly and instead move off the switch and cable box.
This one looks like a better choice correct? It seems to actually do 4k@60hz and HDR unlike the other one that lies in the summary section and actually only does 4k@30hz. If I plug the xbox directly into the tv, I'd only have to move the switch and the cable box and still have 1 left over for the future.
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
This one looks like a better choice correct? It seems to actually do 4k@60hz and HDR unlike the other one that lies in the summary section and actually only does 4k@30hz. If I plug the xbox directly into the tv, I'd only have to move the switch and the cable box and still have 1 left over for the future.
It's still not 2.1 compliant but it's better. Right now there aren't too many options because even A/V receivers that were supposed to be 2.1 weren't, so if you want that Series X to have full capacity you'll have to plug it into the TV directly as you said.
This one looks like a better choice correct? It seems to actually do 4k@60hz and HDR unlike the other one that lies in the summary section and actually only does 4k@30hz. If I plug the xbox directly into the tv, I'd only have to move the switch and the cable box and still have 1 left over for the future.
It's still not 2.1 compliant but it's better. Right now there aren't too many options because even A/V receivers that were supposed to be 2.1 weren't, so if you want that Series X to have full capacity you'll have to plug it into the TV directly as you said.
Yeah I'm totally fine with that being part of the solution. I don't actually care what gets plugged into the switcher, I just know I won't have enough hdmi ports on the tv and am preparing for that inevitability. It's just really hard to know if a switcher is of decent quality or not so I was hoping to find someone here that owned one they liked.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
This one looks like a better choice correct? It seems to actually do 4k@60hz and HDR unlike the other one that lies in the summary section and actually only does 4k@30hz. If I plug the xbox directly into the tv, I'd only have to move the switch and the cable box and still have 1 left over for the future.
It's still not 2.1 compliant but it's better. Right now there aren't too many options because even A/V receivers that were supposed to be 2.1 weren't, so if you want that Series X to have full capacity you'll have to plug it into the TV directly as you said.
Yeah I'm totally fine with that being part of the solution. I don't actually care what gets plugged into the switcher, I just know I won't have enough hdmi ports on the tv and am preparing for that inevitability. It's just really hard to know if a switcher is of decent quality or not so I was hoping to find someone here that owned one they liked.
You can get any normal switch and plug your Switch and cable box into it because who cares, neither one is pushing a high end signal at all.
You have four HDMI inputs on the TV, and the soundbar will make four devices. I would stay miles away from any switches that might confuse ARC further.
Digging into it a bit more it seems the TV will pass through DD+ over ARC so PS5 and Xbox are fine. May still run the Nintendo Switch through the soundbar input since I don't think the TV passes through PCM.
Cheers.
Switch Friend Code: SW-3944-9431-0318
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
So I finally went to reconnect my soundbar after moving a while ago and it won't turn on. So, I guess I need a new soundbar? Kinda disappointed. Is Vizio still the recommended brand for a budget of ~$200ish? I could go a little higher if it makes a big difference.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Yeah, Vizio soundbars are totally fine for the price.
So I finally went to reconnect my soundbar after moving a while ago and it won't turn on. So, I guess I need a new soundbar? Kinda disappointed. Is Vizio still the recommended brand for a budget of ~$200ish? I could go a little higher if it makes a big difference.
You did all the usual stuff, right? Double checked everything was plugged in and tried a different power cable if you've got one?
Made sure the outlet you're using isn't tied to a wall switch somewhere?
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
edited August 2021
If it's an AC-DC converter power supply I would check it with a multimeter. If you don't have one you can usually get one damn near free by the checkout of a Harbor Freight. I don't recommend a shitty multimeter for anything other than this function but it should work fine to check out a dc source.
My favorite memory of thinking my whole AV setup was fucked was when I moved to a new apartment and nothing turned on. Then I figured out over like hours of trouble shooting that the bottom outlet of the wall plate I wanted to use was inexplicably controlled by a light switch on the opposite wall.
The top outlet was live all the time.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
That's happened to me on so many installs.
"Huh, this soundbar isn't working."
Five minutes later.
"The outlet not working?"
I know now to immediately look for a switch then, but yeah..
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I have at times sprayed a tiny amount of window cleaner on the cloth first after sticky kid hands touched the screen with no problems...but not sure if that's a thing to recommend
Generally window cleaners have chemicals in them that will eat away the glare coating on monitors and TVs. I don't recommend it. I know it seems like snake oil, but the monitor cleaner fluids are actually the way to go to clean smudges. They do a great job with a microfiber cloth at getting rid of smudges. Otherwise if you're just getting some dust off, a dry swiffer works great.
This is good to know and glad you clarified before someone tried.
Used to use a microfiber cloth on my wiiu gamepad all the time too. They work great.
We got the laptop in for repair for another issue and the film on the screen was melted away.
It looked terrible both with the screen off and on.
I streamed The Searchers on HBO Max and was very impressed with both the picture quality and SDR brightness, the vista scenes were super impressive.
Watched The Force Awakens in Dolby Vision dark and it also looked great.
Its taking some time getting used to film grain which is something I almost never noticed on any other set, dont know if thats because its a 4k tv or because its an oled...but damn I dont think I like film grain.
EDIT: Also my speaker wiring has yet to burn the place down so thats great, but the rears are pretty quiet and I dont know if thats because I'm using thicker gauge wire than came with the set or if theres a setting I need to tweak on the tv. But the tv is operating as a second center channel so thats nice.
I can almost guarantee it's something to do with your settings. I used 12 gauge wire when I did my custom setup for no other reason than more power and because I wanted some future proofing if I want to do something stupid like run super low boxes or something.
Okay TV thread, my seven year old Samsung LED is acting weird as fuck. All of a sudden won't recognize remote control inputs (did whole battery replacement, factory reset). The power button on the back of th actual unit doesn't turn it on or off.
I unplugged the unit, it turned off plugged it back in and it turned on without any input from me. It now recognized remote inputs for maybe ten minutes. Then stopped again.
Through all of this, it would not turn off or on via the remote or physical power button, but I could at least get it to open the menu via the remote for short periods of time after unplugging it.
Fucking weird. Right?
So I did this and it just turns the Factory Reset text red... and just sits there? It doesn't seem to actually reset anything.
EDIT: so it's frozen several times requiring unplugging. It finally reset, froze trying to download the Smart Hub EULA, then again updating software. Unplugged it a third time and at least the little icon is rotating for the software update.
well, got it reset and tried to set up my sound bar when you select "sound settings" the whole display goes black and no longer responds to the remote.
This is just the living room TV so I think I'm going to go buy a HiSense model from Costco.
This Samsung is only seven years old but clearly dying.
My mom's Sony is from 2008 and while its starting to have issues (I think the edge/backlight is starting to go as a single vertical line of pixels sometimes doesn't turn on) its otherwise totally fine. She's only now itching to upgrade because she saw my tv and that's mostly driven by size not picture quality (even though I'm constantly amazed at how good even 1080p content looks on my TV).
Meanwhile I'm just hoping that my oled lasts long enough for micro led tvs to hit a reasonable price so fingers crossed 7-10 years?
No shit?
Yeah that's kinda where my mind was when I bought my tv... And then sprung for the extra warranty (Synthesis' issues also helped push me there). So maybe fingers crossed something goes bad in April 2026 and that repair/replacement gets me to 2031.
Edit: That said 5 years sounds like an incredibly short lifespan. 7 years is about where I start itching to upgrade and 10 years is probably the It's Time time for me and even then the TV that's getting replaced is in my mind being reduced to secondary duty.
I bought my Vizio when my roommates giant box tv was on its last legs (well, wheels) and we were sick of having to turn it off like 10 times before the picture would finally turn off and used to joke I'd use it as a bathroom TV when I finally upgrade to an adult TV because I don't want a TV in my bedroom. And now that 7 year old Vizio sits in a spare bedroom/my bedroom at my mother's house and may get swapped to replace hers if hers suddenly dies.
I'd probably swear off Vizio if the TV only lasted 5 years. At 7 I'd chop it up to being a budget purchase.
For whatever reason I'm more forgiving of oled lifespans, like if mine goes bad in 5 years I kinda figure its the cost of the technology, but for a normal led lcd 7-10 year lifespan minimum.
man my LG aquos 42" is still kicking from 2007 or so. been using it as a gaming display. no issues except the remote has been lost in many many moves. it was my first big purchase after uni that I saved up for and had to get it because of the aquos yellow LCD marketing lol.
http://steamcommunity.com/id/BretonBrawler
I'm planning to grab one of the Samsung HW-Q950A soundbars shortly and wondering the best way to set it up.
Currently have an LG B7 TV (which uses ARC, not EARC) and 3 consoles (PS5, Switch, XSX) plugged into it and everything else handled through the TV apps, had been using optical out from the TV to the previous 5.1 speaker system until that died.
Thinking the best set up will be to grab a HDMI switch so I can run all 3 consoles into the soundbar's 2 inputs, and ARC should be okay for the compressed Atmos used by the streaming services? I was thinking I could plug the Nintendo Switch into the TV, but from memory the TV won't pass through the PCM audio properly. Other option would be to just plug the least used console (Xbox) into the TV and 'settle for' 5.1 output from that over ARC.
I know the PS5 and XSX use HDMI 2.1 and the soundbar doesn't, but either does my TV so no loss there, and when I do eventually upgrade the TV it'll have EARC so I can use that as the hub of the system.
Any thoughts, or things I've missed?
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
Was thinking this one I guess?
This is the first time I've ever gotten any version of ARC to work and man, feels good.
Yeah that's why I posted here. I'm looking for an appropriate hdmi switch and I'm not sure which I'd want. Figured someone here would own one.
edit: It doesn't actually look like switches even support hdmi 2.1. Of course I'm not sure which hdmi ports my LG C9 even has. On top of that, I could certainly move the switch (generic hdmi) and my cable connection (not hdmi 2.1 either) to the hdmi switch and just plug the xbox directly into the tv. It doesn't really matter to me. I guess I'm looking for an hdmi switch that does 4k@60hz with hdr support?
edit2: I guess all 4 hdmi ports on a C9 are hdmi 2.1. But it still probably makes sense to just plug the xbox in directly and instead move off the switch and cable box.
It's still not 2.1 compliant but it's better. Right now there aren't too many options because even A/V receivers that were supposed to be 2.1 weren't, so if you want that Series X to have full capacity you'll have to plug it into the TV directly as you said.
Yeah I'm totally fine with that being part of the solution. I don't actually care what gets plugged into the switcher, I just know I won't have enough hdmi ports on the tv and am preparing for that inevitability. It's just really hard to know if a switcher is of decent quality or not so I was hoping to find someone here that owned one they liked.
You can get any normal switch and plug your Switch and cable box into it because who cares, neither one is pushing a high end signal at all.
Digging into it a bit more it seems the TV will pass through DD+ over ARC so PS5 and Xbox are fine. May still run the Nintendo Switch through the soundbar input since I don't think the TV passes through PCM.
Cheers.
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
You did all the usual stuff, right? Double checked everything was plugged in and tried a different power cable if you've got one?
Made sure the outlet you're using isn't tied to a wall switch somewhere?
The top outlet was live all the time.
"Huh, this soundbar isn't working."
Five minutes later.
"The outlet not working?"
I know now to immediately look for a switch then, but yeah..
Editing to say the switches in my apt exclusively control the bottom plugs of outlets.