True, but my pro acryl white is great. My Scale75 one also... and my P3 white.
Corax white is not a great paint.
I've noticed he tries to stick to citadel paints a lot of the time, and I suspect this has to do with how his audience followed him from exclusively GW videos. Using the same kinds of materials is a good move from a strictly viewers perspective.
True, but my pro acryl white is great. My Scale75 one also... and my P3 white.
Corax white is not a great paint.
Whereas my Corax White is okay (not great,) but every bottle of P3 white I've bought has been chalky and unusable.
I bought P3 on the recommendation that it was the way to go and frankly the bottles I've gotten are bad. My corax white seems better for the most part. White paint in general is a huge PITA and requires proper thinning, mixing and application.
I'm honestly surprised that you guys have had good experiences with corax white. I've never seen a bottle that wasn't just "chalk in small amount of liquid medium"
I have had one good bottle of corax white. I rarely use white and mostly uses greys for stuff. Though I have painted enough white scars shoulder pads now on black primer to hate my life.
0
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I tend to also use really light gray for a lot of my "white". With my blue boys when I have to paint a white ultra or whatever I'll base it in extremely light gray and use pure white as a highlight. If you look really close you can tell, but from distance it just looks like well shaded/highlighted white. Obviously I doubt that would work for an entire suit, like a White Scar, but for white details like on my UM's it works well.
I tend to also use really light gray for a lot of my "white". With my blue boys when I have to paint a white ultra or whatever I'll base it in extremely light gray and use pure white as a highlight. If you look really close you can tell, but from distance it just looks like well shaded/highlighted white. Obviously I doubt that would work for an entire suit, like a White Scar, but for white details like on my UM's it works well.
That's kinda exactly how to achieve a good looking white model like white scars. Actual white only for the highlights and edges. Everything else is off white colour
As a degenerate airbrush user, my white is generally black prime, dark grey all over except in recesses, light grey, then pure white, the a white highlight with the real brush because even white through an airbrush is actually off white.
I've got moon Knight coming in the mail so I'm going to try something a bit brighter for him as he needs to be practically luminous.
Painted a dragon dude from Descent: Legends of the Dark.
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
+22
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited October 2021
Trying to knock some rust off, having not touched a brush in months, I knocked this Stompy bot out as a gift for a friend over the last week.
Tried some stuff just to experiment. Grey primer coat, Druchii Violet wash to give it some color depth and shade the recesses, a couple different grey drybrush passes, and then details and a topcoat.
The whole thing is fine, nothing particularly taxing, but I'm finding sometimes I just need to play around and bang something out to get my painting legs back under me.
So I have had a huge batch of primed scatter terrain sitting on my desk for the past 2 months acting as an enthusiasm black hole.
Finally decided to sit down and complete it, and ended up painting and clear coating all 16 pieces yesterday.
Which then got me to open some boxes and build a Devastator Sgt and Devastator Heavy Bolter. Next up I need to build a bunch of Shotgun Scouts and a couple Sniper Scouts and a pair of Heavy Weapon Scouts with a Heavy Bolter and Missile Launcher.
Then it’s priming, painting, and clear coat.
Need everything complete by Nov 20 tournament I signed up for.
Debating if I want to do any basing or maybe just glue a couple pebbles or felt swatch here and there once it’s all done.
Debating if I want to do any basing or maybe just glue a couple pebbles or felt swatch here and there once it’s all done.
There is nothing sadder than a beautifully painted model sitting on a bare black platform. Remember the old adage, "Bases and Faces make models look Aces".
Debating if I want to do any basing or maybe just glue a couple pebbles or felt swatch here and there once it’s all done.
There is nothing sadder than a beautifully painted model sitting on a bare black platform. Remember the old adage, "Bases and Faces make models look Aces".
Not bare black, but my own aesthetic prefers a single colour on the top of the base (usually some shade of brown or green) with a black rim.
It may just be a hang up from the old goblin green standard or BattleTech painting where basing materials would generally throw off the sense of scale.
Putting down one of GWs crackling paints and putting some grass tufts down seems to make my models look much better (probably says more about my paint jobs).
Easy work compared to the effort that went in to the rest of the model. I’m trying to not spend ages on models with low toughness and crap saves that won’t be on the table long if something looks at them funny.
They are fantastic models but I feel like they've made them too tame and gargoyle like. They don't look like daemons anymore, just... creatures.
I like your idea of swapping in a daemon head, I'm gonna pursue that path myself. Anybody got more ideas for converting furies?
Mayday on
0
VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
It kinda is, but it's also called a Fury. Now that you mention it, maybe it's not even supposed to be the same thing. These models are for the Warcry / AoS Furies which are Chaotic Beasts, "fauna transformed into unnatural, mutated abominations", not daemons.
Meanwhile the daemon furies no longer even have a model in production.
To add to the confusion, the community page describes them as daemons: https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/07/23/warcry-chaotic-beastsgw-homepage-post-1/
Well, they are certainly a great base for the daemonic model anyhow. I just don't see something described as "barely sentient" using weapons.
I like the plastic warcry furies loads more than the old metal furies, so I'm kinda biased.
Oh, I doubt there's anyone who doesn't.
Anyway, companeros, I have been in a depression and anxiety induced painting slump, but things are getting better recently and I found the energy to make these:
I've been focusing on making sure the process itself is fun and relaxing (rather than trying for maximum effort and effect). It's been a greath change, I should have been doing it this way from the beginning. But it's much easier when painting a few heroes for a boardgame or some scrubs that're going to be a part of a 20 man squad.
+25
VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
Might steal that traitor guard man scheme - they’re great
+1
VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
I've been curious about airbrushing for a bit now and figure asking for some airbrushing items for Christmas gifts might be a good way to start.
One hangup I have is: How essential is a spray booth and/or using the brush next to an open window? Pre-fab booths are surprisingly expensive and it gets very cold where I live so keeping a window open for awhile to paint doesn't sound pleasant.
I'm not a particularly prolific painter. I might prime 3-4 models at a time and then take a month or more to paint through them. So, I don't expect to be sitting down for overly long airbrushing sessions.
I have a cheap-o spray booth with LED light strips. You definitely have to do something (window or booth), but the booth has been great in general.
Originally I thought (and tried) to do the majority of my mini painting with the airbrush but didn't really like it. Over time though, I started doing all my support and prep work with the airbrush and it's been amazing for that.
Now I'll do zenithal priming, varnish sealing, and large surface painting with the airbrush. I can do priming and varnish in any weather (with the booth) and never have to worry about the primer being too thick and obscuring details, or the varnish frosting and screwing up my whole finished paint job. And while I don't paint most minis with the airbrush, it's great for making even layers (without brushstrokes) on big stuff like vehicles.
+3
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I'll second the booth. I have a Master Airbrush Booth, that I think is pretty common around here, and it's 100% been worth it. My bench is in an interior room, so even just using the enclosure+fan keeps the overspray, fumes, and dust contained to the booth itself.
@Dark White it sounds like you paint at about the same speed (or faster!) than I do, and I absolute recommend the airbrush and booth for priming, basecoating, and topcoating. With good care, a cheap airbrush and the booth are going to last you for years and absolutely pay you back in time and ease, while also giving you an entry point into trying more airbrush techniques.
I have just realised than there's an unused vent shaft running right next to my painting desk.
Seems like I might hook up a fan to it, attach some pipes, a filter and then even a cardboard box would let me spray right in the room. Do you think this is a good idea? Anybody has experience with building something like that?
Posts
Whereas my Corax White is okay (not great,) but every bottle of P3 white I've bought has been chalky and unusable.
I've noticed he tries to stick to citadel paints a lot of the time, and I suspect this has to do with how his audience followed him from exclusively GW videos. Using the same kinds of materials is a good move from a strictly viewers perspective.
I bought P3 on the recommendation that it was the way to go and frankly the bottles I've gotten are bad. My corax white seems better for the most part. White paint in general is a huge PITA and requires proper thinning, mixing and application.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
That's kinda exactly how to achieve a good looking white model like white scars. Actual white only for the highlights and edges. Everything else is off white colour
I've got moon Knight coming in the mail so I'm going to try something a bit brighter for him as he needs to be practically luminous.
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
Tried some stuff just to experiment. Grey primer coat, Druchii Violet wash to give it some color depth and shade the recesses, a couple different grey drybrush passes, and then details and a topcoat.
The whole thing is fine, nothing particularly taxing, but I'm finding sometimes I just need to play around and bang something out to get my painting legs back under me.
Finally decided to sit down and complete it, and ended up painting and clear coating all 16 pieces yesterday.
Which then got me to open some boxes and build a Devastator Sgt and Devastator Heavy Bolter. Next up I need to build a bunch of Shotgun Scouts and a couple Sniper Scouts and a pair of Heavy Weapon Scouts with a Heavy Bolter and Missile Launcher.
Then it’s priming, painting, and clear coat.
Need everything complete by Nov 20 tournament I signed up for.
Debating if I want to do any basing or maybe just glue a couple pebbles or felt swatch here and there once it’s all done.
MWO: Adamski
There is nothing sadder than a beautifully painted model sitting on a bare black platform. Remember the old adage, "Bases and Faces make models look Aces".
Not bare black, but my own aesthetic prefers a single colour on the top of the base (usually some shade of brown or green) with a black rim.
It may just be a hang up from the old goblin green standard or BattleTech painting where basing materials would generally throw off the sense of scale.
MWO: Adamski
and the whole gang together
Not true.
At least for 40k and most GW games.
You need 3 colors beyond primer minimum and basing to get the 10 points for a battle ready paint job.
Easy work compared to the effort that went in to the rest of the model. I’m trying to not spend ages on models with low toughness and crap saves that won’t be on the table long if something looks at them funny.
I have seen some good results with Stirland Mud and Nurgles Rot for a more muddy/swampy look
https://youtu.be/pfc-FQvVCqQ
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I like your idea of swapping in a daemon head, I'm gonna pursue that path myself. Anybody got more ideas for converting furies?
Meanwhile the daemon furies no longer even have a model in production.
To add to the confusion, the community page describes them as daemons: https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/07/23/warcry-chaotic-beastsgw-homepage-post-1/
Well, they are certainly a great base for the daemonic model anyhow. I just don't see something described as "barely sentient" using weapons.
I've played with some Vermintide co-op partners who qualify.
Anyway, companeros, I have been in a depression and anxiety induced painting slump, but things are getting better recently and I found the energy to make these:
I've been focusing on making sure the process itself is fun and relaxing (rather than trying for maximum effort and effect). It's been a greath change, I should have been doing it this way from the beginning. But it's much easier when painting a few heroes for a boardgame or some scrubs that're going to be a part of a 20 man squad.
Gants in red are now done
Just gotta varnish them, then pack everyone up.
Knocked this guy out over two days
Two things I would change: I should have covered the dirt around the thing he’s standing on with the same grit elsewhere on the base
Also, I didn’t paint the the vents on his back - those should be the fleshy color you see elsewhere I think
One hangup I have is: How essential is a spray booth and/or using the brush next to an open window? Pre-fab booths are surprisingly expensive and it gets very cold where I live so keeping a window open for awhile to paint doesn't sound pleasant.
I'm not a particularly prolific painter. I might prime 3-4 models at a time and then take a month or more to paint through them. So, I don't expect to be sitting down for overly long airbrushing sessions.
Originally I thought (and tried) to do the majority of my mini painting with the airbrush but didn't really like it. Over time though, I started doing all my support and prep work with the airbrush and it's been amazing for that.
Now I'll do zenithal priming, varnish sealing, and large surface painting with the airbrush. I can do priming and varnish in any weather (with the booth) and never have to worry about the primer being too thick and obscuring details, or the varnish frosting and screwing up my whole finished paint job. And while I don't paint most minis with the airbrush, it's great for making even layers (without brushstrokes) on big stuff like vehicles.
@Dark White it sounds like you paint at about the same speed (or faster!) than I do, and I absolute recommend the airbrush and booth for priming, basecoating, and topcoating. With good care, a cheap airbrush and the booth are going to last you for years and absolutely pay you back in time and ease, while also giving you an entry point into trying more airbrush techniques.
Seems like I might hook up a fan to it, attach some pipes, a filter and then even a cardboard box would let me spray right in the room. Do you think this is a good idea? Anybody has experience with building something like that?
So far I got this done in 9 days working a few hours a day. The hardest part so far? The fricken hazard stripes.