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House/Homeowner Thread: This is no longer a quick or little project
That_Guy
I don't wanna be that guyRegistered User regular
I don't wanna be that guyRegistered User regular
Once again I welcome you to the house/homeowner thread. Bitch about how much that thing is going to cost or how long it's taking that other thing to get fixed. Crumbling walls? Cracked Foundation? Leaking pipes? Look no further for dubious advice.
Home Hunting Resources
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Credit Resources
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Mortgage resources
mortgagecalculator.org
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Home Hunting Resources
zillow.com
trulia.com
realtor.com
www.redfin.com
Credit Resources
creditkarma.com
annualcreditreport.com
mint.com
Mortgage resources
mortgagecalculator.org
www.bankrate.com/calculators/mortgages/mortgage-calculator.aspx
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FHA stands for federal housing authority, and it is the program with which most mortgages originate because you only need 3.5% down.
That's a bit misleading, because you can get conventional mortgages with only 3.5% down too. The main difference is FHA lenders will accept much lower credit scores, and many housing organizations have down payment assistance available specifically for FHA/USDA loans, so functionally it can be even less than that.
Beyond that, it's best to avoid an FHA loan unless it is the only option left. They charge exorbitantly more in origination fees that get tacked on to your balance, and a monthly MIP (which is similar to conventional loan's PMI, but 2-3x more expensive for no reason) that cannot be dropped even if you hit 80LTV. The only way to drop the MIP payment is to refinance.
Whereas conventional mortgages for 3.5 down (or 0 down) have credit requirements in the 750 and higher range, and the level of scrutiny is much higher.
For most lower income home buyers the best bet is FHA with a state program to pay your downpayment.
Maryland has a program if you make under (60k I think or 120k as a couple) they loan you 3 percent or 5k that gets forgiven if you pay your mortgage on time for 5 years.
If there are multiple offers chances are always going to be slim and the cash buyer has a huge advantage over contingency contracts (usually contingent on their house selling) or any mortgage.
But FHAs are still a large part of the house buying pie. So people are accepting them. But conventional is always going to be big. Banks make so much money with mortgages that they give them out to anyone who meets the credit income and debt to income requirements.
10" blades are always going to be available, there are too many units out there. I'm confused.
Also Dewalt is pretty much your only choice on the lower end.
If you're going to spend big money get a sawstop.
Even if "the industry" decides to prefer 8 1/4", there are an awful lot of 10" saws out there. Blades aren't going anywhere soon. And it's not like you go through a ton of blades on a table saw anyway.
Edit to add: brief google makes it look like 8 1/4 is a thing because of cordless table saws. Likewise they have fairly small miter saws for cordless use but for plug in I like my 12"
It makes sense though, if you're DeWalt. 80-90% of your table saw customers are probably contractors who only use it for ripping sheets of plywood/OSB, and you don't really need a 10" for that.
Just to echo everyone else, ten inch blades aren't going anywhere.
And just to defend the honor of DeWalt, the jobsite model can do a lot more than just ripping plywood. The miter gauge in particular is surprisingly accurate.
I am buying a Sawstop Jobsite model in the next month or so because I can't justify the pricing difference between that and the contractor model in terms of features. Also I don't have enough skill to get enough out of the cabinet model.
A Sawstop Jobsite with after market sled / miter gauge is about as much as a sweet spot as I can figure.
It doesn't seem to spin or turn.
Stupid HOA
When in doubt, expect the previous owner did something stupid.
This is an excellent thread title at some point
Speaking of this. Who tf puts baseboard in BEFORE the flooring? Or more to the point, I see how cheap the old owner was. Rather than replacing the baseboard when putting in this horrid linoleum, they told the flooring guy to just run up to the existing and add quarter round.
FML
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
The others are trying to keep you from learning something new!
When we did our house we went with that valspar signature and I was pretty happy with it, except the off-white we got either we or they didn't mix properly I don't think, it was just too thin and needed like three coats. But the two colors we did went on really nice.
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
Real pro tip
If your company has a sherwin Williams account or you have a friend who is a contractor who has a sherwin Williams account you can use your credit card to purchase it but use their discount. They just have to be there or call it in. You can get a 30-40 percent discount depending on how much paint they buy.
It doesn't matter if the paint is supposed to have primer in it, primer is $20 a gallon and it goes on easy. Unless you are painting a room white, the primer is white so it's very easy to see missed spots even with lighter colors. Instead of needing 2 gallons of paint per room it took me to 1 gallon primer + 1 gallon paint for rooms about ~120 sq. ft. with 8 ft. ceilings. Another plus side is the primer doesn't stink and dries much quicker than paint, meaning the time between priming and painting is very short, so it saves time as well.
In short, just use primer. You won't regret it.