Sludge is basically Turnip28 without the turnip theme, right?
Sort of. It's also "post-Napoc", napoleanic post-apocalypse. Infantry as a group on 40-50mm bases counting as a single model, 3-6 of those stands in a unit. Then some skirmishers that are typical single-model bases. But same general "shitty 1700s" style.
Holy crap, that amount? In that quality? In a month? Localized entirely within your kitchen?
That's amazing. Also is that a display board or a gaming board, because it's also great.
Also also I've made a huge mistake and bought a 3d printer. Gotta say the quality is better than I expected.
Woah, that's a clean print. Is it some sort of striking scorpion marine?
Holy crap, that amount? In that quality? In a month? Localized entirely within your kitchen?
That's amazing. Also is that a display board or a gaming board, because it's also great.
These guys were a nice exercise in speedpainting and assembly lining, as they're pretty much just drybrushing and washes, with a tiny bit of shadow-lining to make some of the gear pop. I was able to crank out about 5 guys every night or two. I wouldn't want to make an Imperial Guard army, but Bolt Action is awesome in that this is pretty much all the infantry and support weapons I'll ever need for this army. I don't have to paint 80 more guardsmen and 12 more weapon teams. This is it.
The terrain is just my marine/orgre army display board, which is a lot more scrubland than lush European greenery.
+1
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
That looks like a marine scale head - 3D printing has really been hitting the 'wow' point in the last couple of years. There were a couple of small companies that had little filament 3D printers running in their booths and seeing the quality of the pieces that were (slowly) being printed out live were amazing.
That looks like a marine scale head - 3D printing has really been hitting the 'wow' point in the last couple of years. There were a couple of small companies that had little filament 3D printers running in their booths and seeing the quality of the pieces that were (slowly) being printed out live were amazing.
The small 8k resin printers are insane. Can only do like a 2x2x6 miniature, but goddamn the quality is perfect.
Aww yiss, first stand of line infantry for Sludge. Minus heads at the moment.
+6
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Wait, is the outhouse a unit in Sludge?
If so, that carries some potentially dire consequences.
0
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
It looks like... a ghost outhouse with a lock on the door? Truly, a collection of dire evils.
More sisters finished - I've got the original new imagifier, and after owning them for about twenty years, finally got the paint done on them.
+13
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I didn't know Duncan Rhodes was putting out his own paint line, I'll have to keep my eye open as I've been meaning to expand my paint range.
Speaking of, for metallics I've picked up Screaming Bell and Hashut Copper from GW which are working pretty well for me in terms of bronzy-coppery metallic, but for silvers and golds I'm still using Reaper stuff and I'm not as happy with them as I am with the other Reaper stuff I've still been using, so I've been thinking of grabbing some new silvers/gunmetals and gold colors. My brother suggested the Vallejo Metals line as they're pretty strong and have actual metal flakes in them, and my usual go-to is Citadel stuff because I hate money, but I was hoping to get some other possible opinions on a good place to go for metal colors.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
0
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I could be wrong, I no expert, but my understanding is that all (or at least most) metallic paints use metal flakes, I'm pretty sure the Citadel ones do.
In any case I can second the Vallejo metal range, I've technically been using their airbrush metallics, but they work perfectly fine with a normal brush, very impressive coverage and tone, though they will cloud over if you hit them with a matt varnish, so watch out for that. I'm not a fan of the Citadel golds for the most part, but I'll still use their range for coppers and dark silvers and stuff.
0
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I could be totally off base, but my understanding is a lot of metallic paints use mica, rather than actual metal
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
+1
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
WIP from the Battletech thread: a recent Robotech kickstarter inspired me to meme things up a bit...
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Friends don't let friends play Blooodbowl! Games of the foozball with single d6 resolution systems are da debil!
I finished Kyganil out of the Kyganil/Ephrael Stern pairing. I took on look at the GW paint job and said 'fuck that' to doing all the check work. I regret nothing!
Thanks! I'm pretty happy with how the armor turned out, and it was dead simple to do - this was 2:1 gravelord grey:blood red speedpaint over leadbelcher, but you could easy vary it up with different colours or metallic bases
After testing them for a bit in different circumstances, I think it's pretty doable to get around the reactivation of the speedpaints. Generally, as long as you aren't painting speedpaint over speedpaint, or severely mechanically agitating while wetting you're pretty fine
+1
AegeriTiny wee bacteriumsPlateau of LengRegistered Userregular
Final pack of woofs for now. These are the dry and non-moist lot. Walking mummified dogs essentially.
My brother has always wanted to play Warhammer 40k but hasn't had the time to paint, so I've offered to help him paint his Grey Knight army. While he wants a traditional bluish steel armor color, he wasn't quite sure how blue he wanted to go, so we looked up a few examples and tried a few test models:
From right to left it was Leadbelcher/Drakenhoff glaze with warm highlights, Leadbelcher/Drakenhoff glaze with cool highlights, Grey Knights Steel/Drakenhoff recess shade w/warm highlights, and the same with cool.
He debated a bit about it, and while he did so I found a video from the former Heavy Metal painter that did the studio version of the new Castellan Crowe model on how he did the armor, which used a progressive mix of leadbelcher and dark blue acrylic ink. I'd never tried this technique before and I gotta say that I love it. I tried it on a fifth model and was really happy with the results:
Lil' bro is still deliberating on what he likes best, and since I'm moving house in about 3 weeks I haven't pressured him for his answer. But I know which is the correct answer, and that's what I'm going to do.
Oh, and I forgot to mention it but he bought these models so long ago that they still shipped with the 28mm bases. I'd like to get some nice textured bases for him that are of the same vein as the new Castellan Crowe model:
They look like rocky bases with some chaos bits strewn about. Any suggestions on where I can find these (or good STL files for them?). Regular rocky textures could work too as I think I've got some older chaos models that I could cut up for bits...
Yeah they are significantly more purple in person as you can actually pick up the purple wash from the black up close. They will get a drybrush later today with some dark grey just as some highlighting.
Posts
Sort of. It's also "post-Napoc", napoleanic post-apocalypse. Infantry as a group on 40-50mm bases counting as a single model, 3-6 of those stands in a unit. Then some skirmishers that are typical single-model bases. But same general "shitty 1700s" style.
That's amazing. Also is that a display board or a gaming board, because it's also great.
Also also I've made a huge mistake and bought a 3d printer. Gotta say the quality is better than I expected.
These guys were a nice exercise in speedpainting and assembly lining, as they're pretty much just drybrushing and washes, with a tiny bit of shadow-lining to make some of the gear pop. I was able to crank out about 5 guys every night or two. I wouldn't want to make an Imperial Guard army, but Bolt Action is awesome in that this is pretty much all the infantry and support weapons I'll ever need for this army. I don't have to paint 80 more guardsmen and 12 more weapon teams. This is it.
The terrain is just my marine/orgre army display board, which is a lot more scrubland than lush European greenery.
The small 8k resin printers are insane. Can only do like a 2x2x6 miniature, but goddamn the quality is perfect.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Might have preordered the Phrozen Mighty 8k <_<
If so, that carries some potentially dire consequences.
More sisters finished - I've got the original new imagifier, and after owning them for about twenty years, finally got the paint done on them.
Speaking of, for metallics I've picked up Screaming Bell and Hashut Copper from GW which are working pretty well for me in terms of bronzy-coppery metallic, but for silvers and golds I'm still using Reaper stuff and I'm not as happy with them as I am with the other Reaper stuff I've still been using, so I've been thinking of grabbing some new silvers/gunmetals and gold colors. My brother suggested the Vallejo Metals line as they're pretty strong and have actual metal flakes in them, and my usual go-to is Citadel stuff because I hate money, but I was hoping to get some other possible opinions on a good place to go for metal colors.
In any case I can second the Vallejo metal range, I've technically been using their airbrush metallics, but they work perfectly fine with a normal brush, very impressive coverage and tone, though they will cloud over if you hit them with a matt varnish, so watch out for that. I'm not a fan of the Citadel golds for the most part, but I'll still use their range for coppers and dark silvers and stuff.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Still got to paint over the decals, do the bases and fix some little things.
It's their dummy thicc backsides, isn't it?
Nope, it's a silly thing we've been using as an objective in Age of Sigmar etc.
The Third Battle for the Shithouse was especially nasty.
Wasn't nearly as bad as number 2, though.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I was going to tackle my Kill Team Ork Kommandos as my next project. After seeing this I put them back in the box in the closet.
Thanks for saving a me a lot of time and frustration!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I finished Kyganil out of the Kyganil/Ephrael Stern pairing. I took on look at the GW paint job and said 'fuck that' to doing all the check work. I regret nothing!
Seriously, I think he looks fantastic.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Daemonifuge-Ephrael-Stern-and-Kyganil-2020
I might not be 'eavy metal, but I'm loving the look, especially at a tabletop distance.
Next up is Stern herself, who will be the first classic black/red/white hair scheme sister I will have ever painted.
Nooo! Don't put them away! Greenskinz are so much fun to paint. And the killteam comes with that adorable commando grot.
...that means he has no uderpants, right?
After testing them for a bit in different circumstances, I think it's pretty doable to get around the reactivation of the speedpaints. Generally, as long as you aren't painting speedpaint over speedpaint, or severely mechanically agitating while wetting you're pretty fine
Final pack of woofs for now. These are the dry and non-moist lot. Walking mummified dogs essentially.
From right to left it was Leadbelcher/Drakenhoff glaze with warm highlights, Leadbelcher/Drakenhoff glaze with cool highlights, Grey Knights Steel/Drakenhoff recess shade w/warm highlights, and the same with cool.
He debated a bit about it, and while he did so I found a video from the former Heavy Metal painter that did the studio version of the new Castellan Crowe model on how he did the armor, which used a progressive mix of leadbelcher and dark blue acrylic ink. I'd never tried this technique before and I gotta say that I love it. I tried it on a fifth model and was really happy with the results:
Lil' bro is still deliberating on what he likes best, and since I'm moving house in about 3 weeks I haven't pressured him for his answer. But I know which is the correct answer, and that's what I'm going to do.
They look like rocky bases with some chaos bits strewn about. Any suggestions on where I can find these (or good STL files for them?). Regular rocky textures could work too as I think I've got some older chaos models that I could cut up for bits...
Purple. Is. Always. The. Answer.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Yeah they are significantly more purple in person as you can actually pick up the purple wash from the black up close. They will get a drybrush later today with some dark grey just as some highlighting.
Hell yeah it is
2K POINTS PAINTED!!!! WHOOOOOOOEEEEE!
These models still suck btw, but the second time around I was prepared and found it much easier to assemble them.