The Hue Sync Box accepts 4 HDMI inputs and will act as a HDMI switch for the Apple TV and Xbox. You can then plug the Hue box into the TV and use either optical out from the TV to the soundbar or better yet HDMI ARC from the TV to the soundbar.
ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Sounds like the sync box doesn't pass through Atmos properly so that's a choice you'll have to make. Considering you have an Atmos soundbar now, Arc is good you'll want to go there.
How far apart are your studs? Standard 16" or "lolcontractor" widths?
Do you need full motion? Because if you don't, tilt mounts make things a bit simpler and a lot cheaper.
22" inches.
yeah. I do like the ability to pull the tv out just for wire management but it's not a must
PSN: Canadian_llama
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
So.. I have some thoughts here that may or may not be ideal. The big thing for me is I would never want to hang a 65" TV on a single stud. Those mounts are really meant for up to 55" when you're doing the single stud mount. My recommendation would be to add some framing to the back. It's open already, adding a couple 2x4s isn't a big project, and would let you center a real mount.
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
So.. I have some thoughts here that may or may not be ideal. The big thing for me is I would never want to hang a 65" TV on a single stud. Those mounts are really meant for up to 55" when you're doing the single stud mount. My recommendation would be to add some framing to the back. It's open already, adding a couple 2x4s isn't a big project, and would let you center a real mount.
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
Thanks for the advice. Going with the bigger full-motion mount you suggested. I actually use the smaller version to mount my first tv in another room and it's very simple and well built.
Wiring question: I will have a 65" C1, a series X and an Sonos Arc soundbar w/ back surrounds. The LG looks like it has 4 x ARC HDMI ports but only one E-Arc
Obviously, the soundbar will be using the Earc port. I generally stream stuff using my Xbox.... Am I safe to assume that I won't be able to do lossless ATMOS using the Xbox and have to use the built-in apps?
Last question I hope..... LED strips. Worth it or is it something kitschy I will stop using in a few months? I've actually never really seen them live in action.
I will post a finished picture once this is all set up and appreciate the guidance!
So.. I have some thoughts here that may or may not be ideal. The big thing for me is I would never want to hang a 65" TV on a single stud. Those mounts are really meant for up to 55" when you're doing the single stud mount. My recommendation would be to add some framing to the back. It's open already, adding a couple 2x4s isn't a big project, and would let you center a real mount.
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
Thanks for the advice. Going with the bigger full-motion mount you suggested. I actually use the smaller version to mount my first tv in another room and it's very simple and well built.
Wiring question: I will have a 65" C1, a series X and an Sonos Arc soundbar w/ back surrounds. The LG looks like it has 4 x ARC HDMI ports but only one E-Arc
Obviously, the soundbar will be using the Earc port. I generally stream stuff using my Xbox.... Am I safe to assume that I won't be able to do lossless ATMOS using the Xbox and have to use the built-in apps?
Last question I hope..... LED strips. Worth it or is it something kitschy I will stop using in a few months? I've actually never really seen them live in action.
I will post a finished picture once this is all set up and appreciate the guidance!
I use Medialight Mk2 Biaslights on all of my TV's and computer monitors. They make a massive difference in how much better they screens look. I cannot and will not ever go back to using TV's or monitors without them.
They're also true 6500k with very very high CRI values for accurate color which is something the cheap crap off of Amazon will not be. The LED's are also very tightly spaced so the lighting is completely even and seamless.
So.. I have some thoughts here that may or may not be ideal. The big thing for me is I would never want to hang a 65" TV on a single stud. Those mounts are really meant for up to 55" when you're doing the single stud mount. My recommendation would be to add some framing to the back. It's open already, adding a couple 2x4s isn't a big project, and would let you center a real mount.
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
Thanks for the advice. Going with the bigger full-motion mount you suggested. I actually use the smaller version to mount my first tv in another room and it's very simple and well built.
Wiring question: I will have a 65" C1, a series X and an Sonos Arc soundbar w/ back surrounds. The LG looks like it has 4 x ARC HDMI ports but only one E-Arc
Obviously, the soundbar will be using the Earc port. I generally stream stuff using my Xbox.... Am I safe to assume that I won't be able to do lossless ATMOS using the Xbox and have to use the built-in apps?
Last question I hope..... LED strips. Worth it or is it something kitschy I will stop using in a few months? I've actually never really seen them live in action.
I will post a finished picture once this is all set up and appreciate the guidance!
I use Medialight Mk2 Biaslights on all of my TV's and computer monitors. They make a massive difference in how much better they screens look. I cannot and will not ever go back to using TV's or monitors without them.
They're also true 6500k with very very high CRI values for accurate color which is something the cheap crap off of Amazon will not be. The LED's are also very tightly spaced so the lighting is completely even and seamless.
So.. I have some thoughts here that may or may not be ideal. The big thing for me is I would never want to hang a 65" TV on a single stud. Those mounts are really meant for up to 55" when you're doing the single stud mount. My recommendation would be to add some framing to the back. It's open already, adding a couple 2x4s isn't a big project, and would let you center a real mount.
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
Thanks for the advice. Going with the bigger full-motion mount you suggested. I actually use the smaller version to mount my first tv in another room and it's very simple and well built.
Wiring question: I will have a 65" C1, a series X and an Sonos Arc soundbar w/ back surrounds. The LG looks like it has 4 x ARC HDMI ports but only one E-Arc
Obviously, the soundbar will be using the Earc port. I generally stream stuff using my Xbox.... Am I safe to assume that I won't be able to do lossless ATMOS using the Xbox and have to use the built-in apps?
Last question I hope..... LED strips. Worth it or is it something kitschy I will stop using in a few months? I've actually never really seen them live in action.
I will post a finished picture once this is all set up and appreciate the guidance!
I use Medialight Mk2 Biaslights on all of my TV's and computer monitors. They make a massive difference in how much better they screens look. I cannot and will not ever go back to using TV's or monitors without them.
They're also true 6500k with very very high CRI values for accurate color which is something the cheap crap off of Amazon will not be. The LED's are also very tightly spaced so the lighting is completely even and seamless.
How exactly does it get the colour readings? I've seen some that are HDMI passthrough and some camera setups.
Sorry, it doesn't. The Medialights are only 6500k white. It's primarily geared towards uses where color accuracy is vital, so it's only adding a backlight to the monitor/TV to enhance to colors without affecting the color accuracy or color profile. However, even if you don't care about that, the subtle backlight does make anything on the screen look better and is far easier to look at in a dark or dim room.
If you want I can take pictures of my desk and TV if you'd like an idea what they look like.
So.. I have some thoughts here that may or may not be ideal. The big thing for me is I would never want to hang a 65" TV on a single stud. Those mounts are really meant for up to 55" when you're doing the single stud mount. My recommendation would be to add some framing to the back. It's open already, adding a couple 2x4s isn't a big project, and would let you center a real mount.
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
Thanks for the advice. Going with the bigger full-motion mount you suggested. I actually use the smaller version to mount my first tv in another room and it's very simple and well built.
Wiring question: I will have a 65" C1, a series X and an Sonos Arc soundbar w/ back surrounds. The LG looks like it has 4 x ARC HDMI ports but only one E-Arc
Obviously, the soundbar will be using the Earc port. I generally stream stuff using my Xbox.... Am I safe to assume that I won't be able to do lossless ATMOS using the Xbox and have to use the built-in apps?
Last question I hope..... LED strips. Worth it or is it something kitschy I will stop using in a few months? I've actually never really seen them live in action.
I will post a finished picture once this is all set up and appreciate the guidance!
There's only one arc port, pretty sure it's 2 but I don't remember for sure. But all four ports are HDMI 2.376xda or whatever the current spec is, so the Sonos Arc goes in 2, the rest go wherever.
Just nervous about mounting that much $$$! The other side of the wall is a mechanical room and has no drywall so I have complete access.
Also getting a Sonos Arc soundbar. How much of an improvement are the back channels and sub?
Appreciate the help!
Since you have full access to the back side of the wall I would do an in wall wiring setup so you only need a couple very short cables behind the TV. Normally you'd have to fish everything but with access it should be super simple to do.
Closing on our first house and moving from our tiny apartment this week (where we've been for six years). Is it weird that the thing I'm maybe most excited about is having an excuse to buy a new main TV? Our 65" Vizio P-Series (which has really been pretty terrific, though it now has some weird burn-in) will stay in the living room, but I'm thinking a C1 for the basement/media center and gaming. Only question is whether I go with the 65" or the 77". Considering that this is like the single most important purchase to me for the next... many years... I kinda want to go as big and bold as I can... but I also don't want something that's too big for the space. Couch will be farther away than in our current setup, but I also know that there's such a thing as too big. Need to spend a little time in the space and see what I think.
As someone who was debating between a 65" and 77" TV and ended up going with a 77, I dont regret it at all. I'm basically team get the biggest tv your space will support, especially if you're looking at the same panel technology for each size.
As someone who was debating between a 65" and 77" TV and ended up going with a 77, I dont regret it at all. I'm basically team get the biggest tv your space will support, especially if you're looking at the same panel technology for each size.
As someone who was debating between a 65" and 77" TV and ended up going with a 77, I dont regret it at all. I'm basically team get the biggest tv your space will support, especially if you're looking at the same panel technology for each size.
I still can't believe that 20 years ago I was so Jazzed about getting a 32" CRT and now we are talking TV backlights and 65" OLED
Sorry this took so long. I've been completely redoing my office/game room and was still sorting stuff out and getting artwork/decorations hung up. Still not completely done, off center sound bar above the desk and no artwork there, but it's far enough along for now. FWIW I do 90% of my TV watching with headphones hence no speakers or soundbar, so don't shame me for having a C1 without any kind of home theater setup
I still can't believe that 20 years ago I was so Jazzed about getting a 32" CRT and now we are talking TV backlights and 65" OLED
Sorry this took so long. I've been completely redoing my office/game room and was still sorting stuff out and getting artwork/decorations hung up. Still not completely done, off center sound bar above the desk and no artwork there, but it's far enough along for now. FWIW I do 90% of my TV watching with headphones hence no speakers or soundbar, so don't shame me for having a C1 without any kind of home theater setup
Thank you for posting this, I bought some Biaslighting when I bought my tv and just never set it up. Seeing your photos its crazy how the bright spots look brighter and the dark spots look darker (although maybe thats camera?). One of reasons I havent set it up yet is that I almost never watch tv without any lights on (typically just a ceiling light thats partially blocked by a wall so its dark but not too dark, probably a little darker than your accent lighting) so I wasnt sure how much it'd even matter, but its noticeable.
Now to deal with my main reason for not setting it up - laziness.
So.. I have some thoughts here that may or may not be ideal. The big thing for me is I would never want to hang a 65" TV on a single stud. Those mounts are really meant for up to 55" when you're doing the single stud mount. My recommendation would be to add some framing to the back. It's open already, adding a couple 2x4s isn't a big project, and would let you center a real mount.
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
Thanks for the advice. Going with the bigger full-motion mount you suggested. I actually use the smaller version to mount my first tv in another room and it's very simple and well built.
Wiring question: I will have a 65" C1, a series X and an Sonos Arc soundbar w/ back surrounds. The LG looks like it has 4 x ARC HDMI ports but only one E-Arc
Obviously, the soundbar will be using the Earc port. I generally stream stuff using my Xbox.... Am I safe to assume that I won't be able to do lossless ATMOS using the Xbox and have to use the built-in apps?
Last question I hope..... LED strips. Worth it or is it something kitschy I will stop using in a few months? I've actually never really seen them live in action.
I will post a finished picture once this is all set up and appreciate the guidance!
I use Medialight Mk2 Biaslights on all of my TV's and computer monitors. They make a massive difference in how much better they screens look. I cannot and will not ever go back to using TV's or monitors without them.
They're also true 6500k with very very high CRI values for accurate color which is something the cheap crap off of Amazon will not be. The LED's are also very tightly spaced so the lighting is completely even and seamless.
How exactly does it get the colour readings? I've seen some that are HDMI passthrough and some camera setups.
Sorry, it doesn't. The Medialights are only 6500k white. It's primarily geared towards uses where color accuracy is vital, so it's only adding a backlight to the monitor/TV to enhance to colors without affecting the color accuracy or color profile. However, even if you don't care about that, the subtle backlight does make anything on the screen look better and is far easier to look at in a dark or dim room.
If you want I can take pictures of my desk and TV if you'd like an idea what they look like.
I'd like to see a picture as well. I've been debating about something like this or a color strip.
So.. I have some thoughts here that may or may not be ideal. The big thing for me is I would never want to hang a 65" TV on a single stud. Those mounts are really meant for up to 55" when you're doing the single stud mount. My recommendation would be to add some framing to the back. It's open already, adding a couple 2x4s isn't a big project, and would let you center a real mount.
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
Thanks for the advice. Going with the bigger full-motion mount you suggested. I actually use the smaller version to mount my first tv in another room and it's very simple and well built.
Wiring question: I will have a 65" C1, a series X and an Sonos Arc soundbar w/ back surrounds. The LG looks like it has 4 x ARC HDMI ports but only one E-Arc
Obviously, the soundbar will be using the Earc port. I generally stream stuff using my Xbox.... Am I safe to assume that I won't be able to do lossless ATMOS using the Xbox and have to use the built-in apps?
Last question I hope..... LED strips. Worth it or is it something kitschy I will stop using in a few months? I've actually never really seen them live in action.
I will post a finished picture once this is all set up and appreciate the guidance!
I use Medialight Mk2 Biaslights on all of my TV's and computer monitors. They make a massive difference in how much better they screens look. I cannot and will not ever go back to using TV's or monitors without them.
They're also true 6500k with very very high CRI values for accurate color which is something the cheap crap off of Amazon will not be. The LED's are also very tightly spaced so the lighting is completely even and seamless.
How exactly does it get the colour readings? I've seen some that are HDMI passthrough and some camera setups.
Sorry, it doesn't. The Medialights are only 6500k white. It's primarily geared towards uses where color accuracy is vital, so it's only adding a backlight to the monitor/TV to enhance to colors without affecting the color accuracy or color profile. However, even if you don't care about that, the subtle backlight does make anything on the screen look better and is far easier to look at in a dark or dim room.
If you want I can take pictures of my desk and TV if you'd like an idea what they look like.
I'd like to see a picture as well. I've been debating about something like this or a color strip.
Here's both my TV setup and desk. The room is brighter than my iPhone 12 makes it look with full room lights on, but I do keep it on the dimmer side regardless. The image on a screen is from the Foundation trailer at 4K with Dolby Vision and the room lights are 4000K LED's.
Thanks. Defiantly going to grab some. For the Biaslighting with dark room, is it possible to lower the lighting amount? Might just be the phone, but seems brighter than I'd probably want.
Thanks. Defiantly going to grab some. For the Biaslighting with dark room, is it possible to lower the lighting amount? Might just be the phone, but seems brighter than I'd probably want.
Yes, the brightness can be adjusted with the remote in either 10% intervals or in something like 50-80 individual steps. Some versions have inline dimmers included or available as accessories. There's even an inline dimmer that's Alexa or Google Home compatible for $9.
I may actually need to turn my lights down a little bit but they're at the same level as on my old TV, 80%, which has looked good to me for years.
Edit: I turned the light down to 60% and it's much better.
Thanks. Defiantly going to grab some. For the Biaslighting with dark room, is it possible to lower the lighting amount? Might just be the phone, but seems brighter than I'd probably want.
Yes, the brightness can be adjusted with the remote in either 10% intervals or in something like 50-80 individual steps. Some versions have inline dimmers included or available as accessories. There's even an inline dimmer that's Alexa or Google Home compatible for $9.
I may actually need to turn my lights down a little bit but they're at the same level as on my old TV, 80%, which has looked good to me for years.
Edit: I turned the light down to 60% and it's much better.
Finally getting around to this. However might have an issue. You can see the back of my TV below. Not sure how to get the strips to cover the top and sides.
The horizontal width is about 1 meter. I'm thinking maybe just go with 2 meters (shortest they have) to run on top of one another and adjust brightness as needed.
Finally getting around to this. However might have an issue. You can see the back of my TV below. Not sure how to get the strips to cover the top and sides.
The horizontal width is about 1 meter. I'm thinking maybe just go with 2 meters (shortest they have) to run on top of one another and adjust brightness as needed.
I'm having a weird issue with my new LG c2 and the series x. Sometimes when I turn on the Xbox, instead of the full screen I'd expect, I get a weird squished image. At the same point I also don't have sound at all. Usually restarting fixes the issue, but not always. And the last time I messed with the sound input to get the sound back. I have it plugged into HDMI 3 which isn't the eARC one. I had no issues with my C9 so this is just odd. Any ideas?
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Restarting the console or the TV?
My gut says it's a handshaking issue. Try a different cable just for giggles, but dig into the console settings and make sure everything is set for your specific TVs specs. Don't rely on automatic for anything.
My gut says it's a handshaking issue. Try a different cable just for giggles, but dig into the console settings and make sure everything is set for your specific TVs specs. Don't rely on automatic for anything.
Restarting the console. It's just weird as it worked fine with the C9 without any issue but maybe it's something new in the C2.
My gut says it's a handshaking issue. Try a different cable just for giggles, but dig into the console settings and make sure everything is set for your specific TVs specs. Don't rely on automatic for anything.
I looked a little more at the xbox settings yesterday. Turns out when it happens, the xbox doesn't think the tv is 4k capable and sets the resolution to 640x480. I tried turning off hdmi-cec or whatever it is so we'll see if that helped. Changing the cord didn't do anything.
How are you liking the c2 over the c9? Apparently in Canada we don't get the c2 until May 30th. But I've put aside the dollars to pick one up.
EDIT: It looks like the 77" is cheaper this year...hmmmm
Honestly haven't noticed much of a difference. Some of the options are simpler I guess but otherwise it's a beautiful tv other than my issue with the series x.
edit: I will be the first to admit I bought the tv for the picture more than anything and whatever extra features between the C9 and the C2 don't mean a ton. I will say the C2 was significantly lighter than the C9 which was actually quite helpful in setting it up.
What’s the consens on the QN95B or it’s predecessor? I thought going LG C1 but I really don’t want to babysit the OLED screen or change my viewing or gaming habits.
My preferences:
4x hdmi 2.1, free sync, 120fps
lots of Windows desktop and PC use and Gaming
Hassle free and responsive build-in streaming apps (Netflix, YouTube, Disney+, Amazon) - that’s the requirement of my flat mate, we are splitting the cost
Responsive UI and fast input / channel switching
What’s the consent on the QN95B or it’s predecessor? I thought going LG C1 but I really don’t want to babysit the OLED screen or change my viewing or gaming habits.
My preferences:
4x hdmi 2.1, free sync, 120fps
lots of Windows desktop and PC use and Gaming
Hassle free and responsive build-in streaming apps (Netflix, YouTube, Disney+, Amazon) - that’s the requirement of my flat mate, we are splitting the cost
Responsive UI and fast input / channel switching
I've had an oled since Thanksgiving 2019 and it looks exactly same as it did when I got it. I don't game crazy hours but it was our main tv until about two weeks ago. I think burn in is overblown and not something to worry about.
Burn is more or less a non-issue. All of the TV's have tech built in to prevent it from happening. RTings did an extremely long term intensive burn in test https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/real-life-oled-burn-in-test and their findings are if you watch or play varied content it's something you do not need to worry about.
Posts
LG OLED B7 (couple years old)
Apple TV 4K
Philips Hue Sync Box
LG SL9Y Soundbar
Xbox One
I have 6x Paugge 8K HDMI cables so would like to use these if possible.
What’s the best way to connect all these and make use of the soundbar with each device?
Thanks!
My issue: I have a 12' wall and would like the tv centred. My issue is there is a stud exactly in the middle of the wall where the tv would sit.
I found two options that could work and would love some input from anyone that has more experience as I'm a noob when it comes to mounting.
Option 1 : Double stud mount with lateral movement
https://www.costco.ca/avf-multi-position-tv-wall-mount-for-32-in.-to-100-in.-flat-panel-tvs.product.100745465.html
Option 2 : Single stud mount
https://www.primecables.ca/p-359040-cab-zla09-443-tv-wall-mount-bracket-with-full-motion-articulating-arm-for-most-26-55-inch-primecables
Just nervous about mounting that much $$$! The other side of the wall is a mechanical room and has no drywall so I have complete access.
Also getting a Sonos Arc soundbar. How much of an improvement are the back channels and sub?
Appreciate the help!
Do you need full motion? Because if you don't, tilt mounts make things a bit simpler and a lot cheaper.
22" inches.
yeah. I do like the ability to pull the tv out just for wire management but it's not a must
One other option is this one. That way you can hit two studs, but move the bracket over to the edge by the first stud. Not sure it's going to be perfect though, which is why I would really recommend some framing
Thanks for the advice. Going with the bigger full-motion mount you suggested. I actually use the smaller version to mount my first tv in another room and it's very simple and well built.
Wiring question: I will have a 65" C1, a series X and an Sonos Arc soundbar w/ back surrounds. The LG looks like it has 4 x ARC HDMI ports but only one E-Arc
Obviously, the soundbar will be using the Earc port. I generally stream stuff using my Xbox.... Am I safe to assume that I won't be able to do lossless ATMOS using the Xbox and have to use the built-in apps?
Last question I hope..... LED strips. Worth it or is it something kitschy I will stop using in a few months? I've actually never really seen them live in action.
I will post a finished picture once this is all set up and appreciate the guidance!
I use Medialight Mk2 Biaslights on all of my TV's and computer monitors. They make a massive difference in how much better they screens look. I cannot and will not ever go back to using TV's or monitors without them.
They're also true 6500k with very very high CRI values for accurate color which is something the cheap crap off of Amazon will not be. The LED's are also very tightly spaced so the lighting is completely even and seamless.
They sell those here apparently.
https://biaslighting.ca/collections/medialight-mk2-cri-98-bias-lighting/products/medialight-mk2-flex-6500k-cri-98-bias-lighting?variant=32228848042032
How exactly does it get the colour readings? I've seen some that are HDMI passthrough and some camera setups.
Sorry, it doesn't. The Medialights are only 6500k white. It's primarily geared towards uses where color accuracy is vital, so it's only adding a backlight to the monitor/TV to enhance to colors without affecting the color accuracy or color profile. However, even if you don't care about that, the subtle backlight does make anything on the screen look better and is far easier to look at in a dark or dim room.
If you want I can take pictures of my desk and TV if you'd like an idea what they look like.
I still can't believe that 20 years ago I was so Jazzed about getting a 32" CRT and now we are talking TV backlights and 65" OLED
There's only one arc port, pretty sure it's 2 but I don't remember for sure. But all four ports are HDMI 2.376xda or whatever the current spec is, so the Sonos Arc goes in 2, the rest go wherever.
Since you have full access to the back side of the wall I would do an in wall wiring setup so you only need a couple very short cables behind the TV. Normally you'd have to fish everything but with access it should be super simple to do.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
You can use this viewing distance calculator to see what size panel works best for your seating distance.
Thanks for that, emp!
I also support going big. I don't know anyone who's regretted getting a bigger TV, though admittedly I don't have a huge sample size.
But if you have the space and budget to go bigger, you should go bigger.
Sorry this took so long. I've been completely redoing my office/game room and was still sorting stuff out and getting artwork/decorations hung up. Still not completely done, off center sound bar above the desk and no artwork there, but it's far enough along for now. FWIW I do 90% of my TV watching with headphones hence no speakers or soundbar, so don't shame me for having a C1 without any kind of home theater setup
Here's an Imgur gallery with both the TV setup and desk https://imgur.com/a/w6TA5qW
Thank you for posting this, I bought some Biaslighting when I bought my tv and just never set it up. Seeing your photos its crazy how the bright spots look brighter and the dark spots look darker (although maybe thats camera?). One of reasons I havent set it up yet is that I almost never watch tv without any lights on (typically just a ceiling light thats partially blocked by a wall so its dark but not too dark, probably a little darker than your accent lighting) so I wasnt sure how much it'd even matter, but its noticeable.
Now to deal with my main reason for not setting it up - laziness.
I'd like to see a picture as well. I've been debating about something like this or a color strip.
Here's both my TV setup and desk. The room is brighter than my iPhone 12 makes it look with full room lights on, but I do keep it on the dimmer side regardless. The image on a screen is from the Foundation trailer at 4K with Dolby Vision and the room lights are 4000K LED's.
https://imgur.com/a/w6TA5qW
Yes, the brightness can be adjusted with the remote in either 10% intervals or in something like 50-80 individual steps. Some versions have inline dimmers included or available as accessories. There's even an inline dimmer that's Alexa or Google Home compatible for $9.
I may actually need to turn my lights down a little bit but they're at the same level as on my old TV, 80%, which has looked good to me for years.
Edit: I turned the light down to 60% and it's much better.
Finally getting around to this. However might have an issue. You can see the back of my TV below. Not sure how to get the strips to cover the top and sides.
The horizontal width is about 1 meter. I'm thinking maybe just go with 2 meters (shortest they have) to run on top of one another and adjust brightness as needed.
I think it's discussed in one of the installation videos or guides here https://www.biaslighting.com/pages/medialight-mk2-installation, but you leave an air gap and span those gap with a 45° angle than to follow the contours of the display.
It looks like this on my TV
My gut says it's a handshaking issue. Try a different cable just for giggles, but dig into the console settings and make sure everything is set for your specific TVs specs. Don't rely on automatic for anything.
Restarting the console. It's just weird as it worked fine with the C9 without any issue but maybe it's something new in the C2.
I looked a little more at the xbox settings yesterday. Turns out when it happens, the xbox doesn't think the tv is 4k capable and sets the resolution to 640x480. I tried turning off hdmi-cec or whatever it is so we'll see if that helped. Changing the cord didn't do anything.
EDIT: It looks like the 77" is cheaper this year...hmmmm
Honestly haven't noticed much of a difference. Some of the options are simpler I guess but otherwise it's a beautiful tv other than my issue with the series x.
edit: I will be the first to admit I bought the tv for the picture more than anything and whatever extra features between the C9 and the C2 don't mean a ton. I will say the C2 was significantly lighter than the C9 which was actually quite helpful in setting it up.
Samsung's QD-OLEDs will probably be the next little jump forward but no pricing for those yet either.
PSN / Xbox / NNID: Fodder185
My preferences:
4x hdmi 2.1, free sync, 120fps
lots of Windows desktop and PC use and Gaming
Hassle free and responsive build-in streaming apps (Netflix, YouTube, Disney+, Amazon) - that’s the requirement of my flat mate, we are splitting the cost
Responsive UI and fast input / channel switching