So it seems the traffic is end to end encrypted over TLS to the Amazon servers. But if you are wanting something that is encrypted in a way the provider can't listen to traffic that is another thing. But to say it's not encrypted isn't accurate.
Both APs up and working. Comment from my wife: "You don't need to give me a new (longer) ethernet cable because I don't drop out of Teams calls anymore"
So I got that going for me. Which is nice.
I'm really happy with these bad boys. Ended up going with AP-AC-Pro for both. Hella overkill but now all devices that matter show max bars, and the hardware is less obtrusive.
Big thanks to I think @Shadowfire for pointing out the Unifi app for setting up the APs. It was super easy; no CloudKey or Cloud Machine needed
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
Has anyone here tried the Verizon 5G home internet service? We have Spectrum/cable right now and I'm happy with it but it does look like this might be cheaper... I'd worry about bandwidth and latency with working from home these days and am prejudiced against going wireless but willing to entertain the idea that I'm being old fashioned wanting a wire.
Hey, I just had a quick question about something that Is baffling me, I have a standard linksys router, and bought a netgear mesh extender/access point. Sometimes now I get a problem with IE saying that the connection is not private or an SSL error that I suspect is from my computer losing signal from the main router and switching to the mesh access point. Is this normal or is there anything I can do?
Hey, I just had a quick question about something that Is baffling me, I have a standard linksys router, and bought a netgear mesh extender/access point. Sometimes now I get a problem with IE saying that the connection is not private or an SSL error that I suspect is from my computer losing signal from the main router and switching to the mesh access point. Is this normal or is there anything I can do?
Try disabling Access Control on the Netgear device. Even if there are no devices in the block list to indicate blocking you. The Netgear is redirecting blocked traffic to its own login page that has an untrusted self-signed certificate, hence the SSL warning.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
So I've just realized that even though I have a 2Gpbs internet connection and a 16Gpbs switch, most of my cables are CAT5 or CAT5e. I'm seeing we're all the way up to CAT8 now which seems like way too much, but also weirdly not that expensive? Should I just go CAT8 for future proofing? And is there a recommended brand out there or should I just grab whatever has good user reviews?
Some backstory, we have 7-8 drops that were installed in our house along with 1 UniFi6 Long-Range on the 2nd floor. We had them pre-wire for another ceiling drop on the 4th floor in case we needed another UniFi6 (wasn't sure how the signal would work in a townhome). However the company only used a 8 port switch, so some of our drops are inactive right now and my dream of a neat organized in-wall network box is a nightmare of tangled cords haha.
The first steps I'm looking at is to replace the router with a 16 port model. However, I'm running into the age old technology problem of what seems like multiple standards. Our current UniFi6 LR has a PoE injector with it, which I was confused by since the switch has PoE. But reading up, there appears to be 24v, 48v, active, passive, ieee802.3af/at, etc.
I was looking at the NETGEAR 16-Port PoE Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS316EPP) - Managed, with 15 x PoE+ @ 231W, 1 x 1G SFP Port, but reviews and questions have left me a bit unsure if it'll fully support the 2 UniFi6 Long-Range we'd have without needing injectors.
Could someone help me understand what I need to be looking for or point me to a 16 port PoE switch that would work with the UniFi6 LR's?
Some backstory, we have 7-8 drops that were installed in our house along with 1 UniFi6 Long-Range on the 2nd floor. We had them pre-wire for another ceiling drop on the 4th floor in case we needed another UniFi6 (wasn't sure how the signal would work in a townhome). However the company only used a 8 port switch, so some of our drops are inactive right now and my dream of a neat organized in-wall network box is a nightmare of tangled cords haha.
The first steps I'm looking at is to replace the router with a 16 port model. However, I'm running into the age old technology problem of what seems like multiple standards. Our current UniFi6 LR has a PoE injector with it, which I was confused by since the switch has PoE. But reading up, there appears to be 24v, 48v, active, passive, ieee802.3af/at, etc.
I was looking at the NETGEAR 16-Port PoE Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS316EPP) - Managed, with 15 x PoE+ @ 231W, 1 x 1G SFP Port, but reviews and questions have left me a bit unsure if it'll fully support the 2 UniFi6 Long-Range we'd have without needing injectors.
Could someone help me understand what I need to be looking for or point me to a 16 port PoE switch that would work with the UniFi6 LR's?
POE+ is 48V and up to 25W max. POE+ is also called 802.3at. There is an older standard POE called 802.3af, this is 48V at 15W max. Some of Ubiqiti's lineup annoyingly uses 24V POE. These either require a Ubiqiti switch that can be set down to 24V, a Ubiquiti 24V power injector, or a Ubiquiti "Instant POE Adapter" to drop a standard 48V POE/POE+ switch port's voltage down to 24V.
The UniFi6 LR uses POE+. The Netgear switch you listed will work just fine to power them without any separate power injectors or adapters.
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Some backstory, we have 7-8 drops that were installed in our house along with 1 UniFi6 Long-Range on the 2nd floor. We had them pre-wire for another ceiling drop on the 4th floor in case we needed another UniFi6 (wasn't sure how the signal would work in a townhome). However the company only used a 8 port switch, so some of our drops are inactive right now and my dream of a neat organized in-wall network box is a nightmare of tangled cords haha.
The first steps I'm looking at is to replace the router with a 16 port model. However, I'm running into the age old technology problem of what seems like multiple standards. Our current UniFi6 LR has a PoE injector with it, which I was confused by since the switch has PoE. But reading up, there appears to be 24v, 48v, active, passive, ieee802.3af/at, etc.
I was looking at the NETGEAR 16-Port PoE Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS316EPP) - Managed, with 15 x PoE+ @ 231W, 1 x 1G SFP Port, but reviews and questions have left me a bit unsure if it'll fully support the 2 UniFi6 Long-Range we'd have without needing injectors.
Could someone help me understand what I need to be looking for or point me to a 16 port PoE switch that would work with the UniFi6 LR's?
POE+ is 48V and up to 25W max. POE+ is also called 802.3at. There is an older standard POE called 802.3af, this is 48V at 15W max. Some of Ubiqiti's lineup annoyingly uses 24V POE. These either require a Ubiqiti switch that can be set down to 24V, a Ubiquiti 24V power injector, or a Ubiquiti "Instant POE Adapter" to drop a standard 48V POE/POE+ switch port's voltage down to 24V.
The UniFi6 LR uses POE+. The Netgear switch you listed will work just fine to power them without any separate power injectors or adapters.
Awesome thanks! It's been a decade since I've messed with this stuff.
EDIT: Is netgear still a decent brand? I see Amazon seems to be flooded with brands I've never heard of.
Thanks. I was debating on the unmanaged vs Plus stuff. I'm not sure I really need all the extra features/complexity.
Seems there is a bit of a supply chain issue with network stuff now? Or maybe on going? The networking company said they are backordered on UniFi stuff. The unmanaged Netgear is back-ordered as well.
Fwiw I bought my two AC Pros second hand via eBay and they are running just fine.
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SixCaches Tweets in the mainframe cyberhexRegistered Userregular
edited July 2022
I'm looking at a 6E mesh setup to replace my aging Netgear R7000P. The geography of my condo means that the ISP connection is in a cabinet at one end of a long, narrow home in an old warehouse building, so by the time I get to the other end where my bedroom and living room are, the signal goes from 900mbps to 25.
I'm looking at 6E wifi mesh setups. I think I can make do just fine with 2 APs--one at the ISP connection point and another at the other end in my entertainment center. This would also allow me to put a switch there for all the consoles and the TV so that they're not all trying to connect to Wifi.
I have gig internet and realistically won't be getting faster than that for the foreseeable future. Would something like this suit me well? What else should I be considering?
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
That’s exactly what I just picked up a few weeks ago, and it’s been fantastic. Great speeds, great coverage, the app that controls it all is excellent and easy to use. Plus they’re small and look nice, which helps a lot when you’re setting them up in various spots in the house. For the price, I’d strongly recommend them.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Do some experimentation. The satellite device may give better bitrate if you find a spot half way across the home instead of all the way on the other end.
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SixCaches Tweets in the mainframe cyberhexRegistered Userregular
Do some experimentation. The satellite device may give better bitrate if you find a spot half way across the home instead of all the way on the other end.
You might be better with something like this just Wifi 6 Mesh from Asus if you need to use wireless backhaul. From what I understand they do better than the 6E versions because they use the third band just to do the wireless backhaul between the two units.
I have them and get 450Mbps from the computer connected to the unit in the backroom using the wireless backhaul.
Incindium on
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
edited July 2022
The Tp-Link Deco 6E one also reserves the 6ghz band for the wireless backhaul, but you have the option to enable it for client access if you want.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Yeah seems the Deco 6e will use the 5ghz for wireless backhaul if needed (which is a good thing since the 6ghz doesn't have a good range).
Seems like it might be the budget choice for Wifi 6e.
Incindium on
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
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SixCaches Tweets in the mainframe cyberhexRegistered Userregular
The asus was my other choice but I'm not sure exactly what I'll get for the extra $100+. Help me out here
can you feel the struggle within?
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SixCaches Tweets in the mainframe cyberhexRegistered Userregular
I'm not very confident that I'll be able to use the 6ghz band as a dedicated backhaul. The distance is probably too far and there's at least one wall it'll have to go through.
SixCaches Tweets in the mainframe cyberhexRegistered Userregular
edited August 2022
I will be passing through whatever is being sent over that line to a cable box. I get it for free but rarely use it.
I may give that a try. Actually if I just do that it will solve a few of my problems since the consoles can suddenly have a wired connection to the existing router.
So it looks like my wireless router's wan port and one of the lan ports is dead. Get a network cable unplugged error in the router settings page. No light activity on the front leds or the leds on the Ethernet ports.
Pretty much confirmed it's the router because I can get internet when plugging my modem directly to my desktop pc. Tried several Ethernet cables as well.
Network ports can just fail like that? My router modem and pc are all on the same surge protected UPS power supply. It sucks because my router is out of warranty so I have to dig out an old slower router from my closet to tide me over while I shop for a new one.
So it looks like my wireless router's wan port and one of the lan ports is dead. Get a network cable unplugged error in the router settings page. No light activity on the front leds or the leds on the Ethernet ports.
Pretty much confirmed it's the router because I can get internet when plugging my modem directly to my desktop pc. Tried several Ethernet cables as well.
Network ports can just fail like that? My router modem and pc are all on the same surge protected UPS power supply. It sucks because my router is out of warranty so I have to dig out an old slower router from my closet to tide me over while I shop for a new one.
sadly yes; anything can just fail like that. I put my routers through very heavy (for consumer use) load; like 15+ TB a month and I typically need to replace every 6 months or so due to ports; or just the entire device dying.
While my frequency is an extreme case tbh most home networking equipment is made to last 2-4 years at most to save costs.
Yeah I unplugged the router from everything to let it sit and discharge overnight hoping that might help. Also I read online I can try setting it to dual WAN mode and just use one of the LANs. But I'm using 3 of the 4 lans and one of them is dead.
I can probably shuffle stuff around to the small network switch I have my tv and game console hooked up to in my living room if that works.
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
If both a LAN and WAN port died, it sounds like a surge. Just because your devices are on a surge protector doesn't mean they're fully protected. Your cable line isn't going through your UPS, for instance.
Posts
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
This made me curious so I was looking around and I found this
https://arxiv.org/pdf/2105.13500.pdf
So it seems the traffic is end to end encrypted over TLS to the Amazon servers. But if you are wanting something that is encrypted in a way the provider can't listen to traffic that is another thing. But to say it's not encrypted isn't accurate.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Planning to mount the second downstairs once I find my other PoE injector
So I got that going for me. Which is nice.
I'm really happy with these bad boys. Ended up going with AP-AC-Pro for both. Hella overkill but now all devices that matter show max bars, and the hardware is less obtrusive.
Big thanks to I think @Shadowfire for pointing out the Unifi app for setting up the APs. It was super easy; no CloudKey or Cloud Machine needed
Try disabling Access Control on the Netgear device. Even if there are no devices in the block list to indicate blocking you. The Netgear is redirecting blocked traffic to its own login page that has an untrusted self-signed certificate, hence the SSL warning.
The first steps I'm looking at is to replace the router with a 16 port model. However, I'm running into the age old technology problem of what seems like multiple standards. Our current UniFi6 LR has a PoE injector with it, which I was confused by since the switch has PoE. But reading up, there appears to be 24v, 48v, active, passive, ieee802.3af/at, etc.
I was looking at the NETGEAR 16-Port PoE Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS316EPP) - Managed, with 15 x PoE+ @ 231W, 1 x 1G SFP Port, but reviews and questions have left me a bit unsure if it'll fully support the 2 UniFi6 Long-Range we'd have without needing injectors.
Could someone help me understand what I need to be looking for or point me to a 16 port PoE switch that would work with the UniFi6 LR's?
POE+ is 48V and up to 25W max. POE+ is also called 802.3at. There is an older standard POE called 802.3af, this is 48V at 15W max. Some of Ubiqiti's lineup annoyingly uses 24V POE. These either require a Ubiqiti switch that can be set down to 24V, a Ubiquiti 24V power injector, or a Ubiquiti "Instant POE Adapter" to drop a standard 48V POE/POE+ switch port's voltage down to 24V.
The UniFi6 LR uses POE+. The Netgear switch you listed will work just fine to power them without any separate power injectors or adapters.
Awesome thanks! It's been a decade since I've messed with this stuff.
EDIT: Is netgear still a decent brand? I see Amazon seems to be flooded with brands I've never heard of.
Many people flame on their software but I don't need my gear to do backflips. It's been more solid for me than DLink or TPLink.
Seems there is a bit of a supply chain issue with network stuff now? Or maybe on going? The networking company said they are backordered on UniFi stuff. The unmanaged Netgear is back-ordered as well.
I'm looking at 6E wifi mesh setups. I think I can make do just fine with 2 APs--one at the ISP connection point and another at the other end in my entertainment center. This would also allow me to put a switch there for all the consoles and the TV so that they're not all trying to connect to Wifi.
I have gig internet and realistically won't be getting faster than that for the foreseeable future. Would something like this suit me well? What else should I be considering?
https://a.co/d/gx2jt4P
I don’t have that option.
You might be better with something like this just Wifi 6 Mesh from Asus if you need to use wireless backhaul. From what I understand they do better than the 6E versions because they use the third band just to do the wireless backhaul between the two units.
I have them and get 450Mbps from the computer connected to the unit in the backroom using the wireless backhaul.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Yeah seems the Deco 6e will use the 5ghz for wireless backhaul if needed (which is a good thing since the 6ghz doesn't have a good range).
Seems like it might be the budget choice for Wifi 6e.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
A wired backhaul won't be easy, either.
Hm.
I've only used powerline and regular Ethernet myself.
I may give that a try. Actually if I just do that it will solve a few of my problems since the consoles can suddenly have a wired connection to the existing router.
Pretty much confirmed it's the router because I can get internet when plugging my modem directly to my desktop pc. Tried several Ethernet cables as well.
Network ports can just fail like that? My router modem and pc are all on the same surge protected UPS power supply. It sucks because my router is out of warranty so I have to dig out an old slower router from my closet to tide me over while I shop for a new one.
sadly yes; anything can just fail like that. I put my routers through very heavy (for consumer use) load; like 15+ TB a month and I typically need to replace every 6 months or so due to ports; or just the entire device dying.
While my frequency is an extreme case tbh most home networking equipment is made to last 2-4 years at most to save costs.
I can probably shuffle stuff around to the small network switch I have my tv and game console hooked up to in my living room if that works.
Sucks, but it does happen.