Anycubic has some pretty good deals for Prime Day, picked up a Kobra Max for $150 off. Now to find space to actually set it up, it apparently needs a really big footprint. 3 feet wide once built! Really looking forward to being able to do larger models as a single print though.
With resin, you really need to learn rafting. The initial layers are overcooked to get them to lock to the plate.
Also, take some 220+ grit paper and scuff your build plate (then wash it with water then alcohol), it'll help tremendously when you get to large prints or full plates.
Finally, buffing your FEP every third or fourth print with a microfiber and IPA will extend it's life. The FEP your printer shipped with is likely low quality, so learn on it, but get a pack of backups (I swear by the Elegoo sheets, got like 100 hours out of one before it started to fog).
Just had a really weird print failure with my Mars 2 where roughly an entire 5mm set of layers just didn't print. The print across most of the middle of the plate just stops nice and clean. Supports and all. Stuff further out from the centre printed OK, although obviously everything is a write off.
Any idea what could cause that? My first thought was islands, although re-checking the sliced file there aren't enough islands to cause this, and my second thought was ambient temperature. It was in the low to mid 30s (celsius) today, so could that have done something to the resin?
Another thought is that this is the second print with a brand new bottle of resin, and the first that was almost purely from that bottle instead of the dregs of the last mixed with new. Maybe not shaken enough? Somehow too thick to flow back into the centre of the plate in time for the next curing?
Chrysis on
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
Kobra Max is a weird beast, it seems to want really low temps. Like I havent gotten a good print test for stringing until I went below 180 and that just seems crazy to me. It's monstrous though, I had gotten an Ender 5 for the larger build plate but this is almost double that.
Still terrible at estimating how much filament is left on a roll, but came down to the Ender this morning to find a print finished with literally an inch of filament left sticking out of the feed. Its minorly annoying how much filament is wasted by having a little left but not enough to actually do anything with; for one roll its not much but that adds up over time.
Still terrible at estimating how much filament is left on a roll, but came down to the Ender this morning to find a print finished with literally an inch of filament left sticking out of the feed. Its minorly annoying how much filament is wasted by having a little left but not enough to actually do anything with; for one roll its not much but that adds up over time.
Well I jinxed myself with that post, and on a 3 day print too. I think I can save the wings though... somehow. They're supposed to be pointy like the rest of him, and they print pointing upwards so thats why that flat cutoff on the ends; can see it clearly by the for-scale banana (professional grade). I thought I could pop the wings out of the joints and redo just them but I think it'd crack the body doing so. Maybe try heating it up just enough to be gooey enough to slide out, dunno.
Just had a really weird print failure with my Mars 2 where roughly an entire 5mm set of layers just didn't print. The print across most of the middle of the plate just stops nice and clean. Supports and all. Stuff further out from the centre printed OK, although obviously everything is a write off.
Any idea what could cause that? My first thought was islands, although re-checking the sliced file there aren't enough islands to cause this, and my second thought was ambient temperature. It was in the low to mid 30s (celsius) today, so could that have done something to the resin?
Another thought is that this is the second print with a brand new bottle of resin, and the first that was almost purely from that bottle instead of the dregs of the last mixed with new. Maybe not shaken enough? Somehow too thick to flow back into the centre of the plate in time for the next curing?
Take 2 done overnight with less aggressive timings seems to have come out fine, although I haven't had the chance for a good look yet
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
Still terrible at estimating how much filament is left on a roll, but came down to the Ender this morning to find a print finished with literally an inch of filament left sticking out of the feed. Its minorly annoying how much filament is wasted by having a little left but not enough to actually do anything with; for one roll its not much but that adds up over time.
Well I jinxed myself with that post, and on a 3 day print too. I think I can save the wings though... somehow. They're supposed to be pointy like the rest of him, and they print pointing upwards so thats why that flat cutoff on the ends; can see it clearly by the for-scale banana (professional grade). I thought I could pop the wings out of the joints and redo just them but I think it'd crack the body doing so. Maybe try heating it up just enough to be gooey enough to slide out, dunno.
On the other hand if you hadn't have said anything I'd have thought it was perfect.
+2
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
You could try printing just the wingtips and gluing the extra bits on? Less destructive for sure.
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
edited July 2022
Well, I got the $1.50 wifi card installed in my Prusa Mini, and one beta firmware update later, it’s working perfectly over the network. PrusaLink isn’t as fully featured as OctoPrint, but it’s functional, keeps the full functionality of the Mini’s built in display, and is way cheaper/easier to set up.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Well, I got the $1.50 wifi card installed in my Prusa Mini, and one beta firmware update later, it’s working perfectly over the network. PrusaLink isn’t as fully featured as OctoPrint, but it’s functional, keeps the full functionality of the Mini’s built in display, and is way cheaper/easier to set up.
Well, I got the $1.50 wifi card installed in my Prusa Mini, and one beta firmware update later, it’s working perfectly over the network. PrusaLink isn’t as fully featured as OctoPrint, but it’s functional, keeps the full functionality of the Mini’s built in display, and is way cheaper/easier to set up.
Where did you buy the wifi card?
This is the one that works with the Prusa Mini. I split it with two buddies, so I actually paid like $3, but I took two of them.
JESSINIE 5Pcs ESP8266 ESP-01S Serial Adapter Port to WiFi Wireless Module ESP Wireless Transceiver Development Board DC3.0-3.6V 3DBi PCB Antenna Support UART/GPIO/PWM Interface Smart Home for Arduino https://a.co/d/9Qwtlat
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Well, I got the $1.50 wifi card installed in my Prusa Mini, and one beta firmware update later, it’s working perfectly over the network. PrusaLink isn’t as fully featured as OctoPrint, but it’s functional, keeps the full functionality of the Mini’s built in display, and is way cheaper/easier to set up.
Where did you buy the wifi card?
This is the one that works with the Prusa Mini. I split it with two buddies, so we I actually paid like $3, but I took two of them.
JESSINIE 5Pcs ESP8266 ESP-01S Serial Adapter Port to WiFi Wireless Module ESP Wireless Transceiver Development Board DC3.0-3.6V 3DBi PCB Antenna Support UART/GPIO/PWM Interface Smart Home for Arduino https://a.co/d/9Qwtlat
Awesome, I am going to look into that! Also, can you provide a link to the firmware you mentioned? I want to make sure I grab the right one. Did you follow a guide for installing the chip? Thanks for the help!
Klein on
0
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Well, I got the $1.50 wifi card installed in my Prusa Mini, and one beta firmware update later, it’s working perfectly over the network. PrusaLink isn’t as fully featured as OctoPrint, but it’s functional, keeps the full functionality of the Mini’s built in display, and is way cheaper/easier to set up.
Where did you buy the wifi card?
This is the one that works with the Prusa Mini. I split it with two buddies, so we I actually paid like $3, but I took two of them.
JESSINIE 5Pcs ESP8266 ESP-01S Serial Adapter Port to WiFi Wireless Module ESP Wireless Transceiver Development Board DC3.0-3.6V 3DBi PCB Antenna Support UART/GPIO/PWM Interface Smart Home for Arduino https://a.co/d/9Qwtlat
Awesome, I am going to look into that! Also, can you provide a link to the firmware you mentioned? I want to make sure I grab the right one. Did you follow a guide for installing the chip? Thanks for the help!
The guide for the entire process is on the Prusa site. Super easy to follow and takes about 10 minutes to do the install, then another 5 minutes for the firmware to update.
...Now to find out how the eff I'm supposed to install it.
I picked up a Mars 2 Pro recently and things are going great so far. Did you figure out how to replace the screen? I'd like to hear how it went in case I need to do this myself.
Did the screen fail or is it just worn out?
0
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
...Now to find out how the eff I'm supposed to install it.
I picked up a Mars 2 Pro recently and things are going great so far. Did you figure out how to replace the screen? I'd like to hear how it went in case I need to do this myself.
Did the screen fail or is it just worn out?
Gonna do it later today, but judging by the video on the official Elegoo youtube channel it shouldn't be hard.
Screen failed I think. It was starting to produce holes and "clay cracks" in prints such as these:
EDIT: Added a second photo into the spoiler.
Ianator on
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
It's fairly easy to see screen issues on the Mars 2 Pro. Just take off the vat and throw a sheet of paper across it, then do a tank clean. You'll see any artifacts or issues pretty clearly. If the tank clean (and exposure test) are clear, the issue is likely in the STL. I had an issue I thought was the screen, but the testing showed it was fine. Ended up just flashing on firmware and that fixed it.
Anon the Felon on
+1
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Can confirm installing the new screen was super easy peasy! Took maybe ten minutes from screws out to screws in.
Now I'm wondering if I should be doing something different to level the print bed. Maybe instead of using one sheet of printer paper I should stack two to give a bit more distance from the screen?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
In return, here’s some of what I’ve been up to. Sorry about the shitty iPhone 8 camera but hey, I’m riding this phone until it dies.
+5
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Battletech, heck yeah!
---
So. Screen is replaced and I even updated the firmware. But what I put in is a 2k upgrade screen from Chitu and the printer's giving me sass about the slice resolution not matching the printer. Looks like I need to download a separate firmware from Chitusystems?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
0
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited August 2022
Drumroll please!
sad_trombone.wav
EDIT: What it was supposed to look like...
Perhaps I should not have selected the light supports in LycheeSlicer?
Ianator on
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
0
PiptheFairFrequently not in boats.Registered Userregular
Can confirm installing the new screen was super easy peasy! Took maybe ten minutes from screws out to screws in.
Now I'm wondering if I should be doing something different to level the print bed. Maybe instead of using one sheet of printer paper I should stack two to give a bit more distance from the screen?
you absolutely want a single piece of a4
+3
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Y'know, I think that was it. Redid the levelling with just one sheet and upped the supports to medium. Two thirds through and a lot more models are intact.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Third print, I dropped the supports back to small.
Only three models of seven survived, and even one of those had some major failures.
Advice from r/elegoomars says I should flash my printer to the Mars 2 Pro firmware to get the most out of this screen. Also I should not be "calibrating" my printer with actual prints, yeah?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
So, chatting with some other folks, I remembered that 3D printing exists and now I have the space and the budget to actually get into it, and holy crap things have come a long way since I last looked at it.
Because I am a huge nerd, my interest is naturally towards building miniatures to assemble and paint. Long term goal is to design and print my own, though I do fully realize that’s going to be a long road and a lot of skills for me to acquire.
It seems like resin printers are the way to go for miniatures. So, basically, assume that I am completely ignorant (because I am) what are some good resources for getting into this? Books, websites, YouTube channels, anything along those lines would be super rad.
Considering making mecha is near the top of my “to make” list, couldn’t have bat signaled a better person haha
0
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
OHHHH YEAAAAAAH! [/koolaidman]
(I mean, @Ianator is just as much a Robot Nerd as I and @AvalonGuard is right up the thread with 'Mechs aplenty, but here I am anyway!)
If you're halfway serious about getting into Printing Small Robots, you're absolutely wanting to go resin. I've seen plenty of FDM prints on my Facebook feed, and while I applaud the effort and rarely one rises above the average, they're all unilaterally ugly looking. A good resin print, for small detail prints, far an away blows FDM out of the water.
I'm busy right this second, but I can chime in more in depth and point you toward resources tonight after my spawnling goes to bed.
+3
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Third print, I dropped the supports back to small.
Only three models of seven survived, and even one of those had some major failures.
Advice from r/elegoomars says I should flash my printer to the Mars 2 Pro firmware to get the most out of this screen. Also I should not be "calibrating" my printer with actual prints, yeah?
Are you using Chitubox to generate the supports? FWIW, when I have Chitubox generate light supports, which is most of the supports I use, I also manually add a few medium supports to certain high-load bearing locations.
On 'Mechs, this tends to be the parts of the feet, torso underside, and arms closest to the build plate. I imagine for spaceships you'll want like two to four "load bearing" supports to make sure the rest of the build structure generates in place properly.
Also, if you're using Chitubox to generate the sliced file, you'll want to double check your settings there as well.
As for calibrations....I mean, yeah, you can calibrate a printer with any known good file you have. Yes, there's calibration prints you can do if you really want to fine tune it, but I find that most of the time sunk into that is Perfect being the Enemy of Good.
Ask me again how I feel after I replace my FEP though. :P
Posts
Also resin printers are part magic to me still. I know WHAT they do with what mechanics, but how it only cures resin so specifically is black magic.
Also, take some 220+ grit paper and scuff your build plate (then wash it with water then alcohol), it'll help tremendously when you get to large prints or full plates.
Finally, buffing your FEP every third or fourth print with a microfiber and IPA will extend it's life. The FEP your printer shipped with is likely low quality, so learn on it, but get a pack of backups (I swear by the Elegoo sheets, got like 100 hours out of one before it started to fog).
Thanks for the tips on resin. Edit: Finding a FEP film for the mono SQ seems to be harder than it should. Only one Anycubics site so far.
Any idea what could cause that? My first thought was islands, although re-checking the sliced file there aren't enough islands to cause this, and my second thought was ambient temperature. It was in the low to mid 30s (celsius) today, so could that have done something to the resin?
Another thought is that this is the second print with a brand new bottle of resin, and the first that was almost purely from that bottle instead of the dregs of the last mixed with new. Maybe not shaken enough? Somehow too thick to flow back into the centre of the plate in time for the next curing?
Well I jinxed myself with that post, and on a 3 day print too. I think I can save the wings though... somehow. They're supposed to be pointy like the rest of him, and they print pointing upwards so thats why that flat cutoff on the ends; can see it clearly by the for-scale banana (professional grade). I thought I could pop the wings out of the joints and redo just them but I think it'd crack the body doing so. Maybe try heating it up just enough to be gooey enough to slide out, dunno.
Take 2 done overnight with less aggressive timings seems to have come out fine, although I haven't had the chance for a good look yet
On the other hand if you hadn't have said anything I'd have thought it was perfect.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Where did you buy the wifi card?
This is the one that works with the Prusa Mini. I split it with two buddies, so I actually paid like $3, but I took two of them.
JESSINIE 5Pcs ESP8266 ESP-01S Serial Adapter Port to WiFi Wireless Module ESP Wireless Transceiver Development Board DC3.0-3.6V 3DBi PCB Antenna Support UART/GPIO/PWM Interface Smart Home for Arduino https://a.co/d/9Qwtlat
Awesome, I am going to look into that! Also, can you provide a link to the firmware you mentioned? I want to make sure I grab the right one. Did you follow a guide for installing the chip? Thanks for the help!
The guide for the entire process is on the Prusa site. Super easy to follow and takes about 10 minutes to do the install, then another 5 minutes for the firmware to update.
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-setup-wi-fi-mini-mini_316781
The firmware is linked in the comment on step 12, but here’s the direct link:
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v4.4.0-beta2
edit: yep, had that exact thing.
...Now to find out how the eff I'm supposed to install it.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
It's rad.
The leveling process in the manual is hot nonsense, if you ever buy one go watch Sovol's video instead.
I picked up a Mars 2 Pro recently and things are going great so far. Did you figure out how to replace the screen? I'd like to hear how it went in case I need to do this myself.
Did the screen fail or is it just worn out?
Gonna do it later today, but judging by the video on the official Elegoo youtube channel it shouldn't be hard.
Screen failed I think. It was starting to produce holes and "clay cracks" in prints such as these:
EDIT: Added a second photo into the spoiler.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Now I'm wondering if I should be doing something different to level the print bed. Maybe instead of using one sheet of printer paper I should stack two to give a bit more distance from the screen?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
In return, here’s some of what I’ve been up to. Sorry about the shitty iPhone 8 camera but hey, I’m riding this phone until it dies.
---
So. Screen is replaced and I even updated the firmware. But what I put in is a 2k upgrade screen from Chitu and the printer's giving me sass about the slice resolution not matching the printer. Looks like I need to download a separate firmware from Chitusystems?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
sad_trombone.wav
EDIT: What it was supposed to look like...
Perhaps I should not have selected the light supports in LycheeSlicer?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
you absolutely want a single piece of a4
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Heaven help me.
Only three models of seven survived, and even one of those had some major failures.
Advice from r/elegoomars says I should flash my printer to the Mars 2 Pro firmware to get the most out of this screen. Also I should not be "calibrating" my printer with actual prints, yeah?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
So, chatting with some other folks, I remembered that 3D printing exists and now I have the space and the budget to actually get into it, and holy crap things have come a long way since I last looked at it.
Because I am a huge nerd, my interest is naturally towards building miniatures to assemble and paint. Long term goal is to design and print my own, though I do fully realize that’s going to be a long road and a lot of skills for me to acquire.
It seems like resin printers are the way to go for miniatures. So, basically, assume that I am completely ignorant (because I am) what are some good resources for getting into this? Books, websites, YouTube channels, anything along those lines would be super rad.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
(I mean, @Ianator is just as much a Robot Nerd as I and @AvalonGuard is right up the thread with 'Mechs aplenty, but here I am anyway!)
If you're halfway serious about getting into Printing Small Robots, you're absolutely wanting to go resin. I've seen plenty of FDM prints on my Facebook feed, and while I applaud the effort and rarely one rises above the average, they're all unilaterally ugly looking. A good resin print, for small detail prints, far an away blows FDM out of the water.
I'm busy right this second, but I can chime in more in depth and point you toward resources tonight after my spawnling goes to bed.
Are you using Chitubox to generate the supports? FWIW, when I have Chitubox generate light supports, which is most of the supports I use, I also manually add a few medium supports to certain high-load bearing locations.
On 'Mechs, this tends to be the parts of the feet, torso underside, and arms closest to the build plate. I imagine for spaceships you'll want like two to four "load bearing" supports to make sure the rest of the build structure generates in place properly.
Also, if you're using Chitubox to generate the sliced file, you'll want to double check your settings there as well.
As for calibrations....I mean, yeah, you can calibrate a printer with any known good file you have. Yes, there's calibration prints you can do if you really want to fine tune it, but I find that most of the time sunk into that is Perfect being the Enemy of Good.
Ask me again how I feel after I replace my FEP though. :P
Don't let the resin handling intimidate you! It's very much worth.
A couple of items that made my life cleaner, quicker, and easier;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094JD7T7V?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
A silicone mat; you can get drips all over, leave it in the sun during the day when you're not printing, and you can easily get the drips off:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PQN18B6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
A cure machine! Technically, you can cure resin models by letting them hang in the sun for a day or town, but this guy does it in minutes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H8LPSN4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details