As was foretold, we've added advertisements to the forums! If you have questions, or if you encounter any bugs, please visit this thread: https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/240191/forum-advertisement-faq-and-reports-thread/

Various Stages of Making [Arts and Crafts]

1313234363740

Posts

  • minor incidentminor incident expert in a dying field njRegistered User regular
    Yeah, should be fine. You’d want to just choose a finish (glossy, satin, matte) that matched the rest of the piece. Honestly, if you want the easiest option, I’d go with a rattle can of spray lacquer. That stuff is super easy to apply, incredibly forgiving (as long as you do light coats), and dries nearly instantly. It’s not quite as durable as poly, but a handful of coats should still hold up real well.

    Otherwise on the higher end of finishes, there’s something like Total Boat Halcyon varnish. It’s more expensive, requires a little more finesse to apply (but still totally doable if you’re not a super pro), has to be applied with a brush or roller, and only comes in glossy and satin (may not be an issues for you since it doesn’t look like that piece is matte finished from the photos). It’s a great product, though. More durable and good for high traffic pieces. Water based, so it’s a little less gnarly to work with than some other finishes.

    Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
  • CambiataCambiata Commander Shepard The likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered User regular
    edited January 2023
    Yeah, should be fine. You’d want to just choose a finish (glossy, satin, matte) that matched the rest of the piece. Honestly, if you want the easiest option, I’d go with a rattle can of spray lacquer. That stuff is super easy to apply, incredibly forgiving (as long as you do light coats), and dries nearly instantly. It’s not quite as durable as poly, but a handful of coats should still hold up real well.

    Otherwise on the higher end of finishes, there’s something like Total Boat Halcyon varnish. It’s more expensive, requires a little more finesse to apply (but still totally doable if you’re not a super pro), has to be applied with a brush or roller, and only comes in glossy and satin (may not be an issues for you since it doesn’t look like that piece is matte finished from the photos). It’s a great product, though. More durable and good for high traffic pieces. Water based, so it’s a little less gnarly to work with than some other finishes.

    Oh yeah this furniture is super shiny, that boat varnish actually looks ideal.

    So the only other thing I need advice on, is how to choose stain to match what's there. Is a kit like this one OK for trying paint the sections that have lifted stain? Would you have a recommendation if that one is no good?

    Edit: I've actually never stripped furniture myself, although I do have chemical stripper; once I strip it, will all the stain go, too? So I need to find a stain that matches the look of the rest of it, which means some experimenting on scrap wood first?

    Cambiata on
    "If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
  • minor incidentminor incident expert in a dying field njRegistered User regular
    Stain usually won’t (fully) come off with a chemical stripper, but also, the wood on that probably isn’t stained anyway, just varnished with some type of finish. You would just need to stain (or paint) the wood filler that you apply to the missing chipped areas.

    That paint kit looks like it would probably work well for touching up/faking the coloring and grain lines on the wood filler.

    Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
  • CambiataCambiata Commander Shepard The likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered User regular
    edited January 2023
    The drawer slides on the dresser are all replaced! I know you can't tell from the photo but I took a picture anyway.

    xks276xuapu0.jpg

    I started with the middle drawer. It was easy to remove because the existing slides were bent and the screws were loose. I ran into an issue that I didn't figure out fully until I was working on the drawer after this one: there are these little pieces of wood put in as spacers between the runners and the mount on the dresser. Because they were present on every single drawer I assumed at first they were from the manufacturer and had to be there for the slides to be in the correct position. This caused a lot of pain on that middle drawer when I was trying to put it in and it just wouldn't fit until I removed half the spacers. The middle drawer was the absolute hardest to install because of that error, and there was much swearing.

    I did the bottom drawer next, and it was also pretty easy to remove. I again, for some reason, thought the spacers should be there, until again I couldn't make the drawer fit. That's when I realized that no, these didn't come from the manufacturer, this was a kluge "fix" performed by the previous owner after their drawer slides fell apart. The second drawer was slightly easier to install once I realized that. There was also less gravity working against me than there was for the middle drawer.

    The top drawer turned out to be a PITA to remove. See, something I found out when I went to the AICO website is they show exactly how to remove the drawers, and it's pretty simple because the slides have little plastic tabs you push either up or down on (Depending on the side of the drawer) and they easily come loose. The reason this didn't happen on this dresser is that there is a necessary part of the slide that goes between the drawer and the dresser that allows this tab to work. Even if the plastic got torn up from too much use, that piece of metal still should have been there, but it wasn't. This finally explained for me why the spacers were there - they had to make up for the space that extra piece of metal created. The problem was that without that piece, the slide was squashed together in a way that made it impossible to fully remove the drawer. I tried using pliers to pull the slide out, I tried using a screwdriver as leverage to flatten the metal, nothing worked. I unscrewed the visible screws on the drawer, but that left one that I couldn't reach. Zach managed to unscrew a couple of the screws on the dresser by reaching inside the drawer with the screwdriver, but that left one screw left on the dresser that we couldn't reach. Finally I just sorta brute forced it out. Meaning I popped the screws out of the wood using pressure and let them scratch the side of the drawer. I'm not sorry, TBH. The other drawers have deep grooves from the messed up slides, the top drawer still looks way better than that. And no one but me will know what's inside anyway.

    After all that work, once I had the slides installed the top drawer was the easiest one to install - probably because I didn't bother putting a single spacer in.

    Edit: I realized belatedly that I could at least show you a side view of the newly installed slides:

    f8x6oglcl3jn.jpg

    You can see the little plastic tabs from this picture - all of these drawers can now be removed easily and without damaging the wood. The extra piece of metal I was referring to you can actually see in these photos - it extends out from the dresser about a third of the way on to the drawer. None of these drawers had that piece when I started, but they should have.

    Oh, I almost forgot to mention, wile fumbling around behind that top drawer, I found this:

    3p68iptmxdd7.jpg
    jd6lqaiimzv1.jpg

    I was complaining previously about these pulls being too cheaply made, but once I saw this I realized I was too harsh. Because the metal isn't so weak that I can just push this back into position by hand - this took enormous pressure. I have a propane torch, I'm wondering if I can straighten it just by applying the torch and bending it with pliers?

    Cambiata on
    "If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
  • pimentopimento she/they/pim Registered User regular
    A few years ago I made a desk for my office, but I didn't join the two pieces so the longwise piece would warp to different degrees depending on the weather, and I did a pretty poor job of the stain and varnish. So, over the end of year break I took it all apart, stripped it back and started again. Now the pieces are joined and the stain/varnish job is.. well, it's not shit, so that's an improvement.

  • CambiataCambiata Commander Shepard The likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered User regular
    This here is what we call making extra work for myself just because I can.

    lirjed4g46zn.jpg

    But gosh, I do prefer copper to brass fittings. The main problem with getting the metal fittings this color is that the copper layer is so thin it's easy to polish all the way through it. I dunno, maybe after a few years I'll put together a copper electroplate bath, it doesn't seem like it's that hard to do. It'll cover up the "antiqued" look of the fitting but I could probably look up how to replicate that, too.

    "If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
  • CambiataCambiata Commander Shepard The likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered User regular
    I'm a glutton for punishment. I just ordered all the parts I'll need to electroplate copper. I understand that the stuff that makes it "antique" is called blacking, I'll worry about how to use that stuff later.

    "If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
  • Brovid HasselsmofBrovid Hasselsmof [Growling historic on the fury road] Registered User regular
    I'm having a ponder about the ethics of fandom based craft objects. Please excuse my mind vomit.

    It's very common to find people selling cross stitch patterns based on IP they don't own. A lot of videogame stuff, because pixels translate well, but also basically anything you could make fanart of. And I've not really thought about it much before but now I am. Is that cool? Is it bad?

    Like it's obviously fine to do a cross stitch of Link or whatever, because that is just fanart. But charting a pattern of Link and then selling that pattern on Etsy, that's copyright infringement, right? Like technically illegal probably? Assuming Nintendo ever cared enough to do anything about it.

    I don't really give a shit about people doing it with Zelda or Pokémon or other things owned by massive companies. But the one that got me thinking is noticing how many of these there are for Stardew Valley. Stardew is perfect for cross stitch because it's pixel art and it's cute and folksy, so there's a lot of people selling patterns based on it. And a lot of them are really nice. But is it bad? Also, that Outer Wilds thing I made last year which was nothing to do with Mobius Digital.

    I mean I guess it's not taking anything away from Mobius or the Concerned Ape guy, they aren't selling their own patterns. Maybe it's actually good for them because it helps promote their games?

    A similar thing to this is I decided I want to do something based on The Expanse. So I found a cool piece of art on Google of the Rocinante and put it through one of these websites that converts images to cross stitch patterns. And then thought would the person who made this art mind me doing this? The art they drew is of something they don't have the rights to either, but somehow them drawing the image feels more righteous than me processing that image into something I can use. Maybe because the thing I'm doing is a lot less creative.

    Can't settle on how I feel about it.

  • DoodmannDoodmann Registered User regular
    Just my .02

    To your first question:
    It depends on whether or not the work is transformative beyond the specifics of the copywrite as written.

    The real answer is that it's probably technically a copywrite violation but the quantity being produced and distributed is too low for the copywrite holder to justify engaging with it.

    Plus fan art is free advertising for the IP


    To your second question:
    reinterpreting somone's art into a different media is generally considered plenty transformative, but it would be good of you to credit the original artist as you art lifting their design.

    Whippy wrote: »
    nope nope nope nope abort abort talk about anime
    Sometimes I sell my stuff on Ebay
  • minor incidentminor incident expert in a dying field njRegistered User regular
    Fwiw, I had one of my Etsy listings taken down recently for copyright violation, and I personally think it’s a stretch, but it’s not like you can fight it.

    (I sell a bunch of Cricut/laser/CNC-ready vector artwork for a couple of bucks a file, and this was a design I drew—from scratch, mind you—with the phrase “See You, Space Cowboy” over a very loose interpretation of the Bebop in silhouette)

    Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
  • ChiselphaneChiselphane Registered User regular
    It used to be that most companies wouldn't bother with inspired works and even direct lifts because it's so small potatoes that its not worth the trouble. Some do though, a personal frustration is it's hard to find Discworld patterns because there are official ones and they're pretty heavy handed on anyone else putting stuff out. Frustrating because the official patterns are bigger works than I generally prefer, even for something I love as much as Pratchett's stuff. I do think overall its getting easier to 'crack down' though as automated searching improves etc etc

    If you do sell patterns that have been generated by conversion software, please please do a test stitch of them first. I've wasted a lot of time and money trying those to find out they're terrible.

  • Brovid HasselsmofBrovid Hasselsmof [Growling historic on the fury road] Registered User regular
    Oh I have no intention of selling anything, this is just a thing I want to make

  • RadiationRadiation Registered User regular
    Fwiw, I had one of my Etsy listings taken down recently for copyright violation, and I personally think it’s a stretch, but it’s not like you can fight it.

    (I sell a bunch of Cricut/laser/CNC-ready vector artwork for a couple of bucks a file, and this was a design I drew—from scratch, mind you—with the phrase “See You, Space Cowboy” over a very loose interpretation of the Bebop in silhouette)

    You do what now? I might have some vector requests for you

    PSN: jfrofl
  • knitdanknitdan In ur base Killin ur guysRegistered User regular
    I’ve bought patterns before ( or downloaded free ones) where the creator asks people not to sell work based on it but there’s no legal recourse if you do

    That’s different from copywrited material but it’s hard to know where the line is. Like I’ve done a commission of a copywrited character but the entire transaction was done through PMs and PayPal so who’s to know aside from me and the person who commissioned it?

    “I was quick when I came in here, I’m twice as quick now”
    -Indiana Solo, runner of blades
  • minor incidentminor incident expert in a dying field njRegistered User regular
    Radiation wrote: »
    Fwiw, I had one of my Etsy listings taken down recently for copyright violation, and I personally think it’s a stretch, but it’s not like you can fight it.

    (I sell a bunch of Cricut/laser/CNC-ready vector artwork for a couple of bucks a file, and this was a design I drew—from scratch, mind you—with the phrase “See You, Space Cowboy” over a very loose interpretation of the Bebop in silhouette)

    You do what now? I might have some vector requests for you

    Yeah man, hit me up if you need anything! I mostly churn out monograms for people who are ordering cutting boards from me, but sometimes I get to do some more fun stuff.

    Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    edited January 2023
    Doodmann wrote: »
    Just my .02

    To your first question:
    It depends on whether or not the work is transformative beyond the specifics of the copywrite as written.

    The real answer is that it's probably technically a copywrite violation but the quantity being produced and distributed is too low for the copywrite holder to justify engaging with it.

    Plus fan art is free advertising for the IP


    To your second question:
    reinterpreting somone's art into a different media is generally considered plenty transformative, but it would be good of you to credit the original artist as you art lifting their design.
    knitdan wrote: »
    I’ve bought patterns before ( or downloaded free ones) where the creator asks people not to sell work based on it but there’s no legal recourse if you do

    That’s different from copywrited material but it’s hard to know where the line is. Like I’ve done a commission of a copywrited character but the entire transaction was done through PMs and PayPal so who’s to know aside from me and the person who commissioned it?

    Point of order. There's no such thing as "copywrite". It's copyright. Because the copyright holder has the right to copy the work, and no one else does unless specifically granted permission.

    I see a lot of people talk about "copywrite" on the internet, and then spin off whole absurd legal theories based on the words "copy" and "write" and what they could mean. And it's all nonsense.

    It's a right. That the copyright holder has and you don't.

    [Expletive deleted] on
    Sic transit gloria mundi.
  • DidgeridooDidgeridoo Flighty Dame Registered User regular
    Oh I have no intention of selling anything, this is just a thing I want to make

    I think fanart is super dang cool and an expression of love. If I had made a game, and someone loved my game enough to use the designs to make a cross stitch (which is absolutely art), I would be thrilled. Doubly so if it’s done just to have and not to sell.

  • ChiselphaneChiselphane Registered User regular
    Thought this video was timely and interesting. The subject is AI art but he does discuss the specifics of what counts as transformative.

    https://youtu.be/G08hY8dSrUY

  • knitdanknitdan In ur base Killin ur guysRegistered User regular
    Doodmann wrote: »
    Just my .02

    To your first question:
    It depends on whether or not the work is transformative beyond the specifics of the copywrite as written.

    The real answer is that it's probably technically a copywrite violation but the quantity being produced and distributed is too low for the copywrite holder to justify engaging with it.

    Plus fan art is free advertising for the IP


    To your second question:
    reinterpreting somone's art into a different media is generally considered plenty transformative, but it would be good of you to credit the original artist as you art lifting their design.
    knitdan wrote: »
    I’ve bought patterns before ( or downloaded free ones) where the creator asks people not to sell work based on it but there’s no legal recourse if you do

    That’s different from copywrited material but it’s hard to know where the line is. Like I’ve done a commission of a copywrited character but the entire transaction was done through PMs and PayPal so who’s to know aside from me and the person who commissioned it?

    Point of order. There's no such thing as "copywrite". It's copyright. Because the copyright holder has the right to copy the work, and no one else does unless specifically granted permission.

    I see a lot of people talk about "copywrite" on the internet, and then spin off whole absurd legal theories based on the words "copy" and "write" and what they could mean. And it's all nonsense.

    It's a right. That the copyright holder has and you don't.

    Yes that’s the term I intended to use

    iOS Autocorrect is absolutes hit

    “I was quick when I came in here, I’m twice as quick now”
    -Indiana Solo, runner of blades
  • CambiataCambiata Commander Shepard The likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered User regular
    Most of my copper plating supplies arrived today, including my new special friend, cupric sulfate. The one thing that hasn't been delivered yet is the pieces of copper, so I still need to wait before this science experiment can start. Those are supposed to arrive on Sunday.

    It's probably for the best, because I still need to clean all the pieces I want to plate. I have a few of them soaking in vinegar right now for that purpose. The blacking comes off in long strips, it looks weird.

    "If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Proud Father House GardenerRegistered User regular
    edited January 2023
    I'm having a ponder about the ethics of fandom based craft objects. Please excuse my mind vomit.

    It's very common to find people selling cross stitch patterns based on IP they don't own. A lot of videogame stuff, because pixels translate well, but also basically anything you could make fanart of. And I've not really thought about it much before but now I am. Is that cool? Is it bad?

    Like it's obviously fine to do a cross stitch of Link or whatever, because that is just fanart. But charting a pattern of Link and then selling that pattern on Etsy, that's copyright infringement, right? Like technically illegal probably? Assuming Nintendo ever cared enough to do anything about it.

    I don't really give a shit about people doing it with Zelda or Pokémon or other things owned by massive companies. But the one that got me thinking is noticing how many of these there are for Stardew Valley. Stardew is perfect for cross stitch because it's pixel art and it's cute and folksy, so there's a lot of people selling patterns based on it. And a lot of them are really nice. But is it bad? Also, that Outer Wilds thing I made last year which was nothing to do with Mobius Digital.

    I mean I guess it's not taking anything away from Mobius or the Concerned Ape guy, they aren't selling their own patterns. Maybe it's actually good for them because it helps promote their games?

    A similar thing to this is I decided I want to do something based on The Expanse. So I found a cool piece of art on Google of the Rocinante and put it through one of these websites that converts images to cross stitch patterns. And then thought would the person who made this art mind me doing this? The art they drew is of something they don't have the rights to either, but somehow them drawing the image feels more righteous than me processing that image into something I can use. Maybe because the thing I'm doing is a lot less creative.

    Can't settle on how I feel about it.

    These are valid feelings on this stuff. Rocinante is the expanse spaceship right?
    The artist of that fanwork do have copyright on the art that they drew, regardless of a potential trademark by the expanse folk.

    A really useful thing to do in this situation is to just throw the artist an email, and see how they feel about the project.
    I bet they would be excited to see a created piece of embroidery that is an interpretation of their art.
    Might be less excited about hearing of plans to sell patterns, but would at least ease any ethical doubt on checking.

    Virgil_Leads_You on
    VayBJ4e.png
  • ChiselphaneChiselphane Registered User regular
    Made some paper torches for the youngest. Surprisingly difficult, hardest part was joining the flames to the wood. Ended up half-assing it since they're not going to last super long anyways,

    r6lp99odzu4o.jpg

  • CambiataCambiata Commander Shepard The likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered User regular
    edited January 2023
    My copper anodes were delayed again today, so I cancelled that order and ordered some from a different supplier. I ordered some copper pipe, too, just to make sure I'd have something if the second order fell through.

    I left the metal pieces I was cleaning in the vinegar just a bit too long, and some of them really got stripped down to the base metal. It has such a dull sheen that I honestly worried for a bit that this was plastic-covered metal and wondered what measures I'd have to take to make sure the plating worked on plastic. Then I remembered I've seen the inside of one of these pulls, on account of there having been a couple of snapped-in-half pulls that came with the furniture, and I realized why the metal looks so non-shiny: it's aluminum. This is fine, since aluminum is conductive! I don't think it will be an issue for plating, but anyone with a higher level of experience with metals can correct me if I'm wrong.

    I'm still annoyed that a) I let the plating strip off so much by not paying enough attention to all the pieces I was "pickling" b) that again I'm seeing evidence of how much this company cheaped out on what is really very expensive furniture, as I was right the first time this is not only aluminum but hollowed out aluminum, how cheap can you get!

    Anyway, I may or may not get my new order of copper tomorrow, we'll see.

    Edit: Forgot to mention, but I also cleaned a nickel from my wallet, to use for testing my electroplating once I have everything set up.

    Cambiata on
    "If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
  • TallahasseerielTallahasseeriel Registered User regular
    edited January 2023
    I have a query for anyone with experience with rattle can paints and 3d printed props

    My friend is printing me a hellraiser puzzle cube. It's dope.

    However the design is embossed in such a way that using the gold rattle can we have would pose the issue of masking the lower parts of the prop so they can remain brown.

    Is it safe or possible to use something like silly putty as a masking material? As in. Fill the gaps where I don't want paint with the putty spray the whole thing. Let it cure. Then remove the putty bits?

    Tallahasseeriel on
  • RadiationRadiation Registered User regular
    I'd use painters tape if possible, but I'd think the putty would perform the same function?

    PSN: jfrofl
  • TallahasseerielTallahasseeriel Registered User regular
    The problem with painters tape is they are pretty small debossed areas on the surface of the model and it would be pretty difficult to cut enough pieces of tape to exactly the right shapes for the gaps

    To be clear it looks like this
    tiofbkzy5c6f.png

    Printed in brown filament. Just need to spray the gold parts to save us from having to brush paint on.

  • CambiataCambiata Commander Shepard The likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered User regular
    The problem with painters tape is they are pretty small debossed areas on the surface of the model and it would be pretty difficult to cut enough pieces of tape to exactly the right shapes for the gaps

    To be clear it looks like this
    tiofbkzy5c6f.png

    Printed in brown filament. Just need to spray the gold parts to save us from having to brush paint on.

    I know you specifically asked for people with experience, and while I've spray painted some things I haven't really done it often enough to fall under that definition. That said, I think your putty idea could work, maybe just do a test run on something else to see what the pitfalls are? One probably with spray painting is that when you lift off what you're using for masking, you can actually pull up the paint you've sprayed, if it's completely dry - thus it can often be helpful to remove at least part of the masking while the paint is still wet, usually by having a final thin border of masking tape that you can remove without removing all of the masking you put up. Basically I don't see any way to do this with putty, so you might want to have an xacto knife ready when it comes time to remove the putty, to make sure you're not pulling up the painted areas when you remove the putty.

    An alternative method to putty is painted on liquid latex masking like this stuff. Now that product exists specifically for nail art, so I don't know how it would do on 3D printed plastic, but I assume it would work there as well. The problem of separating the masking from the paint remains, though, and will have to be thought through.

    "If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
  • ChiselphaneChiselphane Registered User regular
    Could he print the detail faces separately then glue them to the base cube after painting? Seems miles easier

  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    I'd paint it all gold, clear coat it, then use an oil wash to stain the recesses brown, then wipe it off the gold surface.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
  • TallahasseerielTallahasseeriel Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    I'd paint it all gold, clear coat it, then use an oil wash to stain the recesses brown, then wipe it off the gold surface.

    This might work

    Do you have a recommended oil wash product?

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    edited January 2023
    oil paint of your choice plus something like W&N Sansodor over a gloss clear coatactually to stain it a satin coat might be better.

    It will look different to the picture up there though. More like the whole cube is old metal with the raised areas polished.

    If you really want it like the picture Chiselphane's sdvice is probably the way to go.

    edit: Also for a really shiny gold, a gloss basecoat and then a gold spray over it should work best. the gloss undercoat helps to make metals look way more shiny and "real"

    honovere on
  • TallahasseerielTallahasseeriel Registered User regular
    edited January 2023
    Could he print the detail faces separately then glue them to the base cube after painting? Seems miles easier

    Unfortunately it is a working replica not a solid cube, otherwise yes.

    The cube is actually two interlocking pieces that has a puzzle dial mechanism in the center of the circle part. When you solve the puzzle it pops the halves apart so you can rotate them freely and lock them into the alternate "solved" position that in the movie summons the cenobites.

    I'm beginning to think just gloss coating it then painting a decent gold paint on with a brush might be the best bet it's just way more work.

    Tallahasseeriel on
  • DoodmannDoodmann Registered User regular
    are their multiple layers of emboss or is it just the face and behind the face? Because if it's the latter you might have luck with a thin layer of paint on plastic/glass and "stamping" the gold onto it.

    Whippy wrote: »
    nope nope nope nope abort abort talk about anime
    Sometimes I sell my stuff on Ebay
  • TallahasseerielTallahasseeriel Registered User regular
    Just two layers.

    The brown "wood" part and the golden "filigree design" raised off of that.

    I'm definitely leaning towards just doing it by hand

    I have cheap big flat brushes that should make it decently easy work to be honest. Just need to pick up a decent gold paint in a bigger than the tiny miniature paint droppers I've got. I'm still worried about adhesion though because it it isn't primed I'm not sure how acrylic will want to stick.

  • DoodmannDoodmann Registered User regular
    Just two layers.

    The brown "wood" part and the golden "filigree design" raised off of that.

    I'm definitely leaning towards just doing it by hand

    I have cheap big flat brushes that should make it decently easy work to be honest. Just need to pick up a decent gold paint in a bigger than the tiny miniature paint droppers I've got. I'm still worried about adhesion though because it it isn't primed I'm not sure how acrylic will want to stick.

    you should definitely try relief stamping it then, like I said just a super thin layer of gold paint on a piece of glass or plastic and push the box onto that.

    Whippy wrote: »
    nope nope nope nope abort abort talk about anime
    Sometimes I sell my stuff on Ebay
  • TallahasseerielTallahasseeriel Registered User regular
    Yeah that might work actually

    I'll just have to see how much relief is in the actual printed version first before I try it.

    Again I worry about getting good adhesion. I do have brown spray primer. Though it's a little light. I could always then stain over that manually with some cheap dark ink I can make with water black or brown acrylic paint and a tiny amount of dish soap.

  • Blake TBlake T Do you have enemies then? Good. That means you’ve stood up for something, sometime in your life.Registered User regular
    Dry brushing the gold on would also work, the cons are is that it is probably the worst looking technique. The upside is that it would probably be the fastest.

  • pookapooka Registered User regular
    edited February 2023
    Could equally go in the decor/declutter thread, but, meh.

    So I got what are technically kitchen utensil holders
    o8ozviecsn41.png
    and scrounged some tension rods so they could become window coverings.
    49i069rpkct8.jpg

    I am far too pleased with them and myself.
    If only because it's a significant aesthetic upgrade from the pleated offcuts there before. (Though the cat ADORES burrowing and pouncing into and out of them, doing so as soon as I dropped them in a heap on the floor. So now I have a literal pile of what is rightfully trash that I can never dispose of.)

    The inciting thought was craft storage, but! Next phase is making some nosegays from dried grasses, seedpods, and a few sprigs of flowers to tuck into the pockets. Got paper bags, kraft tape, & twine, might make little wrapped bouquets for a less hedgewitch vibe, but y'know, also gotta live my truth.

    Trying to figure out where my balance is for minimalist/maximalist in the various domains; the flowers might be too much there, but I can hang them elsewhere, if so.

    I keep procrastinating on practicing my spinning more because I don't want to "waste" my fiber, sigh. So I just need to stop overthinking. ... Even after years of intermittent interest, I also seem to have the opposite problem of most beginners, and I'm basically spinning laceweight, maybe fingerweight. I did (presumably) scare the squares when I busted out my spindle in the waiting room while my partner was having dental surgery, so that still counts.

    Also gathered some sashiko kit so I can mend my jeans with style. I feel clever as hell for picking up a bag of assorted wooden Easter eggs that I think will work perfectly for darning.

    pooka on
    lfchwLd.jpg
  • pookapooka Registered User regular
    I only just heard of this shop because of a thread mentioning it's closing. But if you've got yarn budget to spare and a fondness for tonal merino/blends, on a quick pass, the philosophy and person behind the brand seems lovely, and she's had a rough go of it since the pandemic -- to the point she's upending her career path to continue in recovering her mental health.

    https://o-wool.com

    lfchwLd.jpg
  • CambiataCambiata Commander Shepard The likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered User regular
    My copper was long delayed by weather, so last night was my first chance to try plating. I used a nickel coin as a tester and I'm glad I did because I failed miserably. The plating was spotty and fuzzy-looking. I don't know if the problem is the quality of the copper or the quality of the cupric sulfate. I do have the copper pipe to try so I'll use that for another attempt, but I'm assuming at this point that "lab quality" wasn't good enough for the sulfate and what I need is "reagent quality."

    "If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
Sign In or Register to comment.