Ok so finally I can get some pictures of my stuff up on here. I apologize for the shitty iphone pics. Just a few quick pics of the marines i'm working on atm.
Ok so finally I can get some pictures of my stuff up on here. I apologize for the shitty iphone pics. Just a few quick pics of the marines i'm working on atm.
Nice Space Shark!
As a pro tip from someone else who owns an iPhone, you are not going to be able to take close up pictures with the thing. Go farther back and just crop the picture afterward. It'll be a little bit better quality.
Ok so finally I can get some pictures of my stuff up on here. I apologize for the shitty iphone pics. Just a few quick pics of the marines i'm working on atm.
Those are some very sharp pictures of your keyboard.
You'll want to hold up a white sheet of paper immediately behind them as a backdrop, and probably stick a light in front of them.
Banged out a seventh biker this afternoon. I've been super busy with my new apartment recently, as well as a few other projects, which is why I've only managed to get one done today.
Only two pics for now - the lighting in my apartment is terrible and I am working on figuring out how to adapt to it, but you get the general idea. I had a pair of loose big shootas from an ork dreadnought that I got off of ebay that looked like they would fit the part, so with a little bit of hacking and styrene work I got it all to fit together. The two ammo feeds are hanging off the rear of the bike.
I am getting ready to start painting a Raven Guard army and was wondering if anyone had any tips for painting so much black. I am aiming for a flat black finish overall, with almost all of the color concentrated in the shoulder pads/trim and weapons.
Right now the plan is to do mostly scouts with assault marines. In my brain it is a forward recon force attached to a larger crusade, maybe an armor heavy guard army that I will work on later, but thats about as far as I got theme wise
Also, I was wondering about how the rules worked for modeling squad upgrades. Do I have to give a melta bomb to every person in an assault squad, or just a couple guys to show that they have them with. If I model a bomb on only one or two models, are they the only ones who can use them, or does the whole squad get them.
I hope my questions make sense and I don't sound too stupid
I am getting ready to start painting a Raven Guard army and was wondering if anyone had any tips for painting so much black. I am aiming for a flat black finish overall, with almost all of the color concentrated in the shoulder pads/trim and weapons.
Right now the plan is to do mostly scouts with assault marines. In my brain it is a forward recon force attached to a larger crusade, maybe an armor heavy guard army that I will work on later, but thats about as far as I got theme wise
Also, I was wondering about how the rules worked for modeling squad upgrades. Do I have to give a melta bomb to every person in an assault squad, or just a couple guys to show that they have them with. If I model a bomb on only one or two models, are they the only ones who can use them, or does the whole squad get them.
I hope my questions make sense and I don't sound too stupid
thanks
Great questions. I can suggest what I do for black models, I'm sure others will suggest things as well.
First, I'm assuming you'll prime your models black. After a good priming, you'll want to go over the models again in a 50/50 chaos black/water mix. This will even out the black on the models.
Now, I personally like to warm up models that color with some brown ink. If you don't have any brown ink, I suggest either Devlen Mud, or Sepia. Wash the whole model in a brown wash, and you'll notice that it warms up in the recesses of the model - remember, no model is gonna be a perfect black, light shades and such give it a dynamic look.
Personally, I find highlighting black to be tough - but there's the easier tried and true black templar method - drybrush some codex grey over each model. You'll notice that it picks out edges on the armor. If you don't like that effect, you can try some very careful highlighting with a fine detail brush, but i'm a fan of the drybrush method personally. After Codex Grey, you can bring up the individual highlights with lighter shades of gray on specific raised areas, not the whole model. For instance, the arms, or the legs, or the helmet - don't overshadow your dark gray with your drybrushing. Just pick out the prominent edges, like hands, or feet. Use your best judgment.
For your shoulder pads, you'll want to base with Astrnomicon gray before putting any white down. As always, be sure to mix in 50/50 water. Don't gob it on. After it dries, you can start layering on thin coats of skull white, or you can do what I do, which is to try a 80/20 mix of of Skull White/Astronomicon gray. Remember that true whites don't really exist, a slightly grayer white looks more natural to me. For your shoulder pads, you can also try the lining trick - as you got on with your second coat of white, leave a line of the foundation gray showing on the edge, a la black templar style. Personally, I like that effect, but YMMV.
Just remember, when you paint white, be patient. Let it dry completely before you do any other layers. If it looks chalky afterwards, you can try the old 'Ard Coat trick, and that can even your whites out. When you do a dull coat sealer at the end of the model, it'll get the shine off shoulder pads, but even out your whites still.
As for modelling squad upgrades, one or two should be fine.
Really though for stuff like bombs i'd be fine with just a "those dudes have melta bombs" before the game.
I am stuck 3 states away from home due to work right now, but I'm going to get started as soon as I get back
I also forgot to mention that this will be my first time painting any warhammer guys, with the only other thing I've done being a couple guys for a DnD game a few years ago.
From what I've read on here so far, I should use a Krylon black primer, not the GW one, right?
sk600 on
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited August 2008
Ah, that reminds me. Didn't someone (Ein?) say that Rustoleum Black Automobile Primer was awesome?
Ianator on
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
I'd be careful with that; first, beach sand is hardly clean and second, beach sand tends to be legally protected, so try not to get caught.
Yeah, I tried the beach sand today and it really just didn't look right. However, on the legality of it, I own the beach in question. Well, insofar that it is part of the property on which I live.
I figured that would happen, which is why I mentioned I seived through the gravel/sand I got to seperate it. Not just to get different sizes of rock, but to get rid of the dust that makes it muddy/dirty.
When I did it, I just waited for a really windy day, put 3 or 4 long containers in a row, and sifted it so the wind automatically blew the sand over the 3 containers. I also did this with a lot of sand, since not all of it is going to go exactly where you want, but it seperated out the dust, and I got 3 types of sand to use. 4 if you count the smaller pebbles in the seive.
Oh god someone wish me luck. Ive got a WHFB tournament at the end of this month and today is pretty much my only chance to finish my army, and like an idiot I've left it to last minuite. All ive got left is basing and some detailing but thank fuck for the new washes. Ok time to finish up. Hopefully I can get this finished.
I submit to the Warhammer Fantasy players out there.... The newest in my line of custom-made Unit Standards. Lady of the Lake beware!
-R
Rubberchrist on
"Nurgle has got to be my favorite chaos god, fluff wise...
He's portrayed as this sort of jovial, jolly old guy who thinks that rotting apocolyptic plague is funny as hell... So basically he's a big ole fat bastard who thinks giving you a scorching case of the herp is a big laugh." ---Erandus Gallery and Blog: http://brushandputty.blogspot.com/
Made one biker yesterday and one today in my free time, which makes eight and nine.
That second bike actually has a third barrel slung underneath the two middle ones, set slightly back so as not to interfere with the wheel. I copped out and used another of the biker front tire guards on him, which means there are two bikes that both have 'em, but I figure in two dozen-strong mobs you can space them out far enough that they'll still look unique anyway.
I'm going to dig for a burst cannon for number 10. I'm looking forward to the Nob at #12 a fair bit - I am picturing a grot in a sidecar with some heavy armaments.
Ein on
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OtakuD00DCan I hit the exploding rocks?San DiegoRegistered Userregular
edited August 2008
And now, my jacks. I know, the shading on the Ironclad and Cent in particular is horrible. I blame Morrow White. I tried mixing in some matte medium, but it doesn't seem to have any good effect. It's so... chalky and pasty and dries really fast. It's hard to highlight anything with it.
Haha! I want to keep them, there is a league at work... They are mostly assembled. I've never painted, well, anything before, and any guide I find via google turns out pretty weak. Any GOOD guides online?
Also, I want to paint my Death Jester like The Joker. Awesome y/n.
Best guide in my (limited so far) experience is painting some dudes. Beyond "painting a color that looks good on a surface," I just do washes, drybrushing, and highlighting, which are all pretty straightforward. All three of those techniques are explained pretty ably on brushthralls.com as well.
Mouschi on
Gamertag: Cunning Hekate // League of Legends: FeroxPA
Too true. Playing an Apocalypse game recently, with both guard players on the same side was pretty impressive. More than a dozen tanks, 12 sentinels, a Baneblade and 400 odd infantry surging forwards across the table was a sight to make you proud. What was even more impressive was that my platoon of Vostroyans held the central part of the city and didn't take a single casualty, mostly thanks to a combo of Defensive Lines and Camelioline.
-Akinos: Learning by doing is one of the best ways of improving. Wack some paint some minis and then ask for advice. GW did, ages ago, a series called "how to paint x". They were really basic tutorials, but they were what really helped me learn to paint properly.
Haha! I want to keep them, there is a league at work... They are mostly assembled. I've never painted, well, anything before, and any guide I find via google turns out pretty weak. Any GOOD guides online?
Also, I want to paint my Death Jester like The Joker. Awesome y/n.
http://www.minipainters.com/tutorials/ - Found this one bumming around Privateer Press painting forums, a lot of the stuff at least gives basic concepts. Hopefully it'll help.
One thing I knew will help is to keep coming back to this thread. Seriously, I come here to get inspired to try harder and do better while painting. Sure, it'll be a LONG time before you'll equal someone like Ein, Timspork, and others in this thread, but the pursuit is what matters.
Alazull on
User name Alazull on Steam, PSN, Nintenders, Epic, etc.
Haha! I want to keep them, there is a league at work... They are mostly assembled. I've never painted, well, anything before, and any guide I find via google turns out pretty weak. Any GOOD guides online?
Also, I want to paint my Death Jester like The Joker. Awesome y/n.
http://www.minipainters.com/tutorials/ - Found this one bumming around Privateer Press painting forums, a lot of the stuff at least gives basic concepts. Hopefully it'll help.
One thing I knew will help is to keep coming back to this thread. Seriously, I come here to get inspired to try harder and do better while painting. Sure, it'll be a LONG time before you'll equal someone like Ein, Timspork, and others in this thread, but the pursuit is what matters.
Might also want to check out the brushthralls. They do mostly work with Privateer Press minis, but painting technique is painting technique. What works for one game will work for others.
400 infantry? How many days did each movement phase last?
400 Infantry on our side. We started at about 9 in the morning and finished about 6. We got 3 turns a side in. I'll stick up some pics in the 40k thread.
Posts
Nice Space Shark!
As a pro tip from someone else who owns an iPhone, you are not going to be able to take close up pictures with the thing. Go farther back and just crop the picture afterward. It'll be a little bit better quality.
Those are some very sharp pictures of your keyboard.
You'll want to hold up a white sheet of paper immediately behind them as a backdrop, and probably stick a light in front of them.
Only two pics for now - the lighting in my apartment is terrible and I am working on figuring out how to adapt to it, but you get the general idea. I had a pair of loose big shootas from an ork dreadnought that I got off of ebay that looked like they would fit the part, so with a little bit of hacking and styrene work I got it all to fit together. The two ammo feeds are hanging off the rear of the bike.
I've sorta run out of ideas for things to stick on them. Do you think they need anything else, or should I just paint them up?
I am getting ready to start painting a Raven Guard army and was wondering if anyone had any tips for painting so much black. I am aiming for a flat black finish overall, with almost all of the color concentrated in the shoulder pads/trim and weapons.
Right now the plan is to do mostly scouts with assault marines. In my brain it is a forward recon force attached to a larger crusade, maybe an armor heavy guard army that I will work on later, but thats about as far as I got theme wise
Also, I was wondering about how the rules worked for modeling squad upgrades. Do I have to give a melta bomb to every person in an assault squad, or just a couple guys to show that they have them with. If I model a bomb on only one or two models, are they the only ones who can use them, or does the whole squad get them.
I hope my questions make sense and I don't sound too stupid
thanks
Great questions. I can suggest what I do for black models, I'm sure others will suggest things as well.
First, I'm assuming you'll prime your models black. After a good priming, you'll want to go over the models again in a 50/50 chaos black/water mix. This will even out the black on the models.
Now, I personally like to warm up models that color with some brown ink. If you don't have any brown ink, I suggest either Devlen Mud, or Sepia. Wash the whole model in a brown wash, and you'll notice that it warms up in the recesses of the model - remember, no model is gonna be a perfect black, light shades and such give it a dynamic look.
Personally, I find highlighting black to be tough - but there's the easier tried and true black templar method - drybrush some codex grey over each model. You'll notice that it picks out edges on the armor. If you don't like that effect, you can try some very careful highlighting with a fine detail brush, but i'm a fan of the drybrush method personally. After Codex Grey, you can bring up the individual highlights with lighter shades of gray on specific raised areas, not the whole model. For instance, the arms, or the legs, or the helmet - don't overshadow your dark gray with your drybrushing. Just pick out the prominent edges, like hands, or feet. Use your best judgment.
For your shoulder pads, you'll want to base with Astrnomicon gray before putting any white down. As always, be sure to mix in 50/50 water. Don't gob it on. After it dries, you can start layering on thin coats of skull white, or you can do what I do, which is to try a 80/20 mix of of Skull White/Astronomicon gray. Remember that true whites don't really exist, a slightly grayer white looks more natural to me. For your shoulder pads, you can also try the lining trick - as you got on with your second coat of white, leave a line of the foundation gray showing on the edge, a la black templar style. Personally, I like that effect, but YMMV.
Just remember, when you paint white, be patient. Let it dry completely before you do any other layers. If it looks chalky afterwards, you can try the old 'Ard Coat trick, and that can even your whites out. When you do a dull coat sealer at the end of the model, it'll get the shine off shoulder pads, but even out your whites still.
Really though for stuff like bombs i'd be fine with just a "those dudes have melta bombs" before the game.
this is the basing kit i got
http://www.skullcrafts.com/basing_kits.htm
1 $30 box has lasted me like 3 armies now lol.
I am stuck 3 states away from home due to work right now, but I'm going to get started as soon as I get back
I also forgot to mention that this will be my first time painting any warhammer guys, with the only other thing I've done being a couple guys for a DnD game a few years ago.
From what I've read on here so far, I should use a Krylon black primer, not the GW one, right?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
I figured that would happen, which is why I mentioned I seived through the gravel/sand I got to seperate it. Not just to get different sizes of rock, but to get rid of the dust that makes it muddy/dirty.
When I did it, I just waited for a really windy day, put 3 or 4 long containers in a row, and sifted it so the wind automatically blew the sand over the 3 containers. I also did this with a lot of sand, since not all of it is going to go exactly where you want, but it seperated out the dust, and I got 3 types of sand to use. 4 if you count the smaller pebbles in the seive.
-R
He's portrayed as this sort of jovial, jolly old guy who thinks that rotting apocolyptic plague is funny as hell... So basically he's a big ole fat bastard who thinks giving you a scorching case of the herp is a big laugh." ---Erandus
Gallery and Blog:
http://brushandputty.blogspot.com/
That second bike actually has a third barrel slung underneath the two middle ones, set slightly back so as not to interfere with the wheel. I copped out and used another of the biker front tire guards on him, which means there are two bikes that both have 'em, but I figure in two dozen-strong mobs you can space them out far enough that they'll still look unique anyway.
I'm going to dig for a burst cannon for number 10. I'm looking forward to the Nob at #12 a fair bit - I am picturing a grot in a sidecar with some heavy armaments.
Seriously though, what condition is it in?
Send the army to me.
Also, assemble and paint them, then wage war?
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
I made a TD for iphone and windows phone!
gimme gimme gimme
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
In fact, this idea's so good, I'm gonna steal it in true mek fashion for my Bikerz....
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Also, I want to paint my Death Jester like The Joker. Awesome y/n.
Gamertag: Cunning Hekate // League of Legends: FeroxPA
Ohh, nothing like that. I just don't have nearly enough points of guard, so I figured I'd use another army for legit larger battles.
No, there is no better feeling than placing down a half dozen vehicles with dozens of infantry behind them.
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
-Akinos: Learning by doing is one of the best ways of improving. Wack some paint some minis and then ask for advice. GW did, ages ago, a series called "how to paint x". They were really basic tutorials, but they were what really helped me learn to paint properly.
Love those bastards.
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
http://www.minipainters.com/tutorials/ - Found this one bumming around Privateer Press painting forums, a lot of the stuff at least gives basic concepts. Hopefully it'll help.
One thing I knew will help is to keep coming back to this thread. Seriously, I come here to get inspired to try harder and do better while painting. Sure, it'll be a LONG time before you'll equal someone like Ein, Timspork, and others in this thread, but the pursuit is what matters.
Yeah, I've been browsing the thread a bit. Most of it makes me go "OMGWTF I could never do that!"
400 Infantry on our side. We started at about 9 in the morning and finished about 6. We got 3 turns a side in. I'll stick up some pics in the 40k thread.