So I need some help with a conversion I'm thinking about
I want to put an assault cannon on one of my Black Reach dreads. I have an extra metal assault cannon from a landspeeder and an assault cannon arm from a terminator to build from.
1- Which one do you think I should try to match to the Dread?
2- Should I just try to buy an assault cannon bit? they are $7 and out of stock at the warstore.
I am stuck out of town for work right now and don't have the pieces in hand so if anyone can let me know if there will be scale problems for either of the options I would appreciate it
I am leaning towards using the landspeeder one. It would be my first attempt at cutting metal and I would not have to spend any more money. Also, I want to hang onto the termie one to put on a terminator.
sk600; the terminator assault cannon is a lot smaller than the dreadnought one. If I were you, I'd prolly use a land speeder cannon. If you cut off the multi melta from the dreads arm, you should be able to glue the assault cannon to it. Maybe you'll need some extra parts to bulk it up, but it should be totally doable.
Niklas; Thanks, I was hoping that was the better option
From pictures I can find it looks like there are a couple 'power pack' type things on the back of the dread gun arm connected to the barrels by some tubes, but I shouldn't be too hard to take that off. I heard the plastic in the BR sprues was more brittle than normal and has a tendency to break. Does anyone know for sure?
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
edited October 2008
I've noticed nothing of the sort. Ask Ein, he's probably handled more of it than anyone else here. ^_^;
It is a bit of a different plastic formulation. Presumably it's cheaper. It's harder, though I haven't noticed any 'brittle' tendencies. Taking mold lines off in some places a pain.
I've trimmed up a bunch of marines in the last few days. The ones from the standalone box were more soft than those in the BR box, but i didnt snap or break any BR marines. I think you'd have to try pretty hard (or like, leave them on a radiator for a few days and heat/dry them).
Keep in mind that awesome is relative to my other paint jobs. There are some obvious mistakes on this, green in places it shouldn't be, but for the most part, I think it came out well.
I usually like the gun painted in boltgun with a wash of badab black, and the shielding (?) on top, where the skull is, painted the same colour as the armour or a non-metalic secondary colour if you're using one. You could give that a try.
Yeah, I plan on doing up the guns, but I have no idea how I want to do them yet.
I suggest doing the clip, the receiver, the bolt, the barrel, the back end etc in the metallic color you are currently using. I recommend painting everything else the green you are using or maybe just highlighting the black, depending. Then paint the scope to look something like glass or some kind of optic sight. Or you could paint those areas and the scope red to make them really pop and add some contrast.
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OtakuD00DCan I hit the exploding rocks?San DiegoRegistered Userregular
Metzger MeisterIt Gets Worsebefore it gets any better.Registered Userregular
edited October 2008
do any of you fellows buy supplies at miniwargaming.com? i notice they have great deals, and i'm a subscriber to their youtube channel, and i was wondering if they're a good company to order from and stuff.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Guys, I have an important question about the passage of time.
I noticed that dust starts to form in the little crooks and cranny's of models and it starts to spread.
How do I stop this? Some dust is too inaccessible to get off later (Or can you dunk them in water?)
Do they pretty much have to be in an airtight glass case?
Dust is a pain, but a large soft brush (eg a Tank Brush that's been sent on one too many drybrushing missions) should be able to get most of it.
If you wanted to dunk your minis in water, you should have sealed them with spray varnish when they were done, TBH. Otherwise you run an increased risk of paint damage and/or watermarks, depending on your local limestone/water purification rituals.
Guys, I have an important question about the passage of time.
I noticed that dust starts to form in the little crooks and cranny's of models and it starts to spread.
How do I stop this? Some dust is too inaccessible to get off later (Or can you dunk them in water?)
Do they pretty much have to be in an airtight glass case?
Dust is a pain, but a large soft brush (eg a Tank Brush that's been sent on one too many drybrushing missions) should be able to get most of it.
If you wanted to dunk your minis in water, you should have sealed them with spray varnish when they were done, TBH. Otherwise you run an increased risk of paint damage and/or watermarks, depending on your local limestone/water purification rituals.
Guys, I have an important question about the passage of time.
I noticed that dust starts to form in the little crooks and cranny's of models and it starts to spread.
How do I stop this? Some dust is too inaccessible to get off later (Or can you dunk them in water?)
Do they pretty much have to be in an airtight glass case?
I periodically fire up my airbrush and blast off my minis that are gathering dust with the compressor (no paint!). It's safer than using canned air, because canned air has a tendency to spray the occasional mist of superfreezing liquid which will screw your paint up.
Oh ok, so if its acrylic for the citadels then yeah, the ink washes should work fine. I use ink washes on wood for my drawings, so I have a bunch of colors. Thanks guys.
I found it pretty effective to just dunk the metal minis into a cup of undiluted Simple Green for a while.
I'm assuming one should detach their metal minis from their plastic bases before attempting such a thing? Because I've got some models in need of some paint stripping.
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OtakuD00DCan I hit the exploding rocks?San DiegoRegistered Userregular
edited October 2008
Uuuh.... Probably a good idea though I didn't need to so far. I poured in just neough so only the model went in.
No, wait. It was the entire thing. Simple Green shouldn't be able to melt plastic.
All-purpose cleaner found in the Automotive section, of all places. ...At least in Wal-Mart.
Yeah, I was getting pissed yesterday when I was at Wal-Mart looking for Simple Green, and I found it in the automotive section right next to all the other caustic, toxic chemicals. Whereas my local supermarket just keeps it in the cleaning aisle, where it belongs. -_-
Time for an Eldar megapost. Sorry for the poor quality lighting- I really need to get a real camera. Hopefully the quality is high enough to give an impression of some of these guys.
Scorpions!
Scorpion backs!
Scorpions and Banshees!
Farseer! Really washed out image on this one, sorry.
Wraithlord! I'm very happy with how his rifle turned out.
A segment of the army together. There are a few other units not shown- harlequins, dire avengers, a couple of falcons. Hopefully by the time it's all painted I'll have a camera that works.
How do you determine color schemes for your vehicles? I've got a fire prism, falcon, and a wave serpent that I need to paint and I can't decide what to go with for coloring. As you can see, I've already done a number of variations on the blue/khaki/yellow theme. I want something that's going to stand out from that but still fit, thematically.
Posts
I want to put an assault cannon on one of my Black Reach dreads. I have an extra metal assault cannon from a landspeeder and an assault cannon arm from a terminator to build from.
1- Which one do you think I should try to match to the Dread?
2- Should I just try to buy an assault cannon bit? they are $7 and out of stock at the warstore.
I am stuck out of town for work right now and don't have the pieces in hand so if anyone can let me know if there will be scale problems for either of the options I would appreciate it
I am leaning towards using the landspeeder one. It would be my first attempt at cutting metal and I would not have to spend any more money. Also, I want to hang onto the termie one to put on a terminator.
From pictures I can find it looks like there are a couple 'power pack' type things on the back of the dread gun arm connected to the barrels by some tubes, but I shouldn't be too hard to take that off. I heard the plastic in the BR sprues was more brittle than normal and has a tendency to break. Does anyone know for sure?
"EVEN IN DEATH I STILL COOK MOTHERFUCKERS".
i saw it in a book at the comic shop, and it is pretty fuckin big. so, yeah, i must have it!
Hopefully I can cut the melta off and not make a total wreck of the whole arm
Any advice on how to make an ammo belt connecting the base of the arm to the gun?
I don't know what I did wrong with the first wash I tried, because the marine I just finished looks awesome.
I am happy man right now.
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
Using my paintscheme as an example
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
I suggest doing the clip, the receiver, the bolt, the barrel, the back end etc in the metallic color you are currently using. I recommend painting everything else the green you are using or maybe just highlighting the black, depending. Then paint the scope to look something like glass or some kind of optic sight. Or you could paint those areas and the scope red to make them really pop and add some contrast.
Ol' Rowdy, Cygnar's first character 'Jack.
I noticed that dust starts to form in the little crooks and cranny's of models and it starts to spread.
How do I stop this? Some dust is too inaccessible to get off later (Or can you dunk them in water?)
Do they pretty much have to be in an airtight glass case?
I made a TD for iphone and windows phone!
If you wanted to dunk your minis in water, you should have sealed them with spray varnish when they were done, TBH. Otherwise you run an increased risk of paint damage and/or watermarks, depending on your local limestone/water purification rituals.
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You mean like 'Ardcoat?
I made a TD for iphone and windows phone!
I periodically fire up my airbrush and blast off my minis that are gathering dust with the compressor (no paint!). It's safer than using canned air, because canned air has a tendency to spray the occasional mist of superfreezing liquid which will screw your paint up.
How would acrylic ink behave on a model surface as a wash?
Can't help you with the wash, but Citadel Paints are water-based acrylic.
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yeah that was the idea
some models it seems if you paint over them instead you will lose some of the finer details
I'm assuming one should detach their metal minis from their plastic bases before attempting such a thing? Because I've got some models in need of some paint stripping.
No, wait. It was the entire thing. Simple Green shouldn't be able to melt plastic.
Good to know. :^:
Yeah, I was getting pissed yesterday when I was at Wal-Mart looking for Simple Green, and I found it in the automotive section right next to all the other caustic, toxic chemicals. Whereas my local supermarket just keeps it in the cleaning aisle, where it belongs. -_-
Time for an Eldar megapost. Sorry for the poor quality lighting- I really need to get a real camera. Hopefully the quality is high enough to give an impression of some of these guys.
Scorpion backs!
Scorpions and Banshees!
Farseer! Really washed out image on this one, sorry.
Wraithlord! I'm very happy with how his rifle turned out.
A segment of the army together. There are a few other units not shown- harlequins, dire avengers, a couple of falcons. Hopefully by the time it's all painted I'll have a camera that works.
How do you determine color schemes for your vehicles? I've got a fire prism, falcon, and a wave serpent that I need to paint and I can't decide what to go with for coloring. As you can see, I've already done a number of variations on the blue/khaki/yellow theme. I want something that's going to stand out from that but still fit, thematically.