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First car- cash for beater vs financing a recent year vehicle

OrganichuOrganichu poopspeesRegistered User, Moderator mod
Hi,

I'm moving to a location where driving is almost certainly a necessity. I'll be a 26 year old first time driver. Cash in hand is $3,000 max, preferably no more than $2,500 (to account for registration, first month's insurance etc)

I'm having a hard time deciding between buying a 15-20 year old in cash vs financing a recent year used car. Essentially:

Older vehicle: no car payments, liability insurance- if things go reasonably well, much cheaper in the long run. However, the risk of mechanical failures is dramatically higher and I have no mechanical aptitude. I also don't know any mechanics in the area where I'll be moving.

Newer vehicle: in addition to a more comfortable ride (which I don't care about too much), I'll have peace of mind that my vehicle has been constructed more recently and has been (in most cases) abused less. This is very reassuring, since it'd suck to have a car break down a short time after moving cross country, leaving me with depleted savings and no car. Also if I financed it would be a helpful item on my credit profile, which I'm always looking to improve. However, with a down payment + payments + first time driver comprehensive insurance... this is a way more guaranteed-expensive option.

Thoughts? Pretty stressful decision. Also would love recommendation on particular cars (the only thing that's especially caught my eye has been a 2001 Civic, though it usually seems to go for more like 4k than 3k).

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    QuidQuid Definitely not a banana Registered User regular
    If it was me I'd finance for a used car around 6k. You can get used civics/yarises/whatever from just a few years ago for that amount and they're undying beasts. I got my base model '06 Yaris for 6,500 in '09 and have only just now had to replace anything on it.

    That said I don't know your exact income and living situation and that can change things quite a bit.

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    DaenrisDaenris Registered User regular
    Yeah, if you're not mechanically inclined, you probably shouldn't buy a 15-20 year old car, because there are likely going to be a lot of maintenance issues over time. If it were me (and really it is, because I'm looking to replace a car fairly soon) I'd look for a certified used car in the 10-14k range.

    At least near me there are a lot of decent options in that range (Focus, Fusion, Versa, Corolla, Civic, a Jetta or two). Obviously the payment is going to be higher than buying an older, cheaper car, but you'll have at least some sort of warranty on it for a while in case anything major goes wrong with the drivetrain. And with $2500 down, you're looking at probably around $200/month for a 60 month loan, or $250/month for a 48 month.

    Obviously this depends entirely on how much you want to spend on the car on a per-month basis. If that's out of your comfort range financially, then I'd agree with Quid and get something a couple years older. If you can, you should get it checked out by an independent mechanic before buying, don't trust the dealership because of course they're going to say it's in great shape.

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    JasconiusJasconius sword criminal mad onlineRegistered User regular
    if you don't have a mechanical background you're going to have a hard time identifying which beater has the most life in it, and which one will break down on the lot

    If you can finance your way to 10k, the market really opens up for you

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    illigillig Registered User regular
    Jasconius wrote: »
    if you don't have a mechanical background you're going to have a hard time identifying which beater has the most life in it, and which one will break down on the lot

    This - buying a beater is great (that's what i do), but you need to have some mechanical aptitude to keep the thing running to keep it low cost. Paying a mechanic to fix all of the things that will naturally come up on a 15-20 year old car, will drain you pretty quickly AND will be difficult to budget for (you can't know what will break down next).

    If you're stuck on getting a beater, certainly look for one of the commuting appliance ones - nothing performance/sporty as it will have been beaten on for most if its life. So go for a Civic/Accord, Corolla/Camry, Altima, etc. The newest you can afford, with the lowest miles you can find. These cars pretty much run forever.

    Another option is leasing - you have a set payment (and leases are very cheap - you're basically paying for the depreciation on the vehicle only). There are lots of deals out there for $2.5-3K down and $99/month leases on civics/jettas, etc.

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    DasUberEdwardDasUberEdward Registered User regular
    Hello Chubert.

    You want to finance a used vehicle. With 3K down you will have plenty of options and most likely end up in something 2010 and newer. There's even a darn good chance that you'll be able to get a certified pre-owned vehicle that will still have a limited factory warranty.

    The really important part is that you go to a large reputable dealer. Also i'm not sure which state you will be in but in Ohio we require folks to have insurance first before they can drive anything off of the lot. Well my dealership does anyway.

    As a first time buyer you'll be looking at somewhere between 10%-20% on your financing unless you have excellent credit. You should be paying between $200-$250 monthly. The most important thing is that you do have a considerable amount to put down toward your vehicle and that will give you a lot of leeway with lenders.

    Honestly do not waste your time and money with an older vehicle. It will eat into your pocket faster than you'd realize.

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    bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    Chu, do you have a job lined up ATM? That'll be critical to if you can finance. I'd say if you have a job and make a decent income finance something in the 10kish range if you can swing it, you can put the money down or keep it for an emergency and eat the extra $50 a month.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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    DasUberEdwardDasUberEdward Registered User regular
    edited June 2014
    bowen wrote: »
    Chu, do you have a job lined up ATM? That'll be critical to if you can finance. I'd say if you have a job and make a decent income finance something in the 10kish range if you can swing it, you can put the money down or keep it for an emergency and eat the extra $50 a month.

    Oh! Right. Sorry I assumed that he had the employment going on still.

    Yikes. That's going to be critical otherwise you won't be able to find financing without exponentially bad rates. So bad you're better off walking or biking or busing or anything but agreeing rates.

    DasUberEdward on
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    mcdermottmcdermott Registered User regular
    Yeah, current employment is going to be critical to getting a loan, and even with a job you've just recently started you may be looking at shit APRs.

    Philosophically, I've come to the point where I've decided that, like many things in life, the choices in buying a car are largely an illusion, and you'll pay the same regardless (at the low end, at least). You either pay $150 a month in payment, or you pay $2000 here and $2000 there for repairs. You either pay the extra $100 a month in insurance, or you wind up taking the total loss when it gets wrecked or stolen in five years. And if you're in a position where you're trying to weigh these relatively moderate costs against each other, it's likely you're not in a position where eating the cost of a car or coughing up $2000 for a repair is going to be easy.

    I may be exaggerating just a bit, but not as much as you might think. I kept records on my last couple older used cars, and when you start averaging maintenance out over months driven you basically wound up with a low but significant "car payment." That was entirely unpredictable.

    Whereas I drove my recent-model used car (a Chevy Cobalt, 35K miles or so on it) for three years and spent a grand total of maybe $300 on "maintenance" (nothing but oil changes). Had zero problems with it, ever. Then I traded it in for a significant portion of what I paid for it. Then, once you've done one or two auto loans (and assuming you're taking other steps to maintain/build credit) eventually you can get in on the ridiculous financing options out there...at the time I purchased, had I qualified, I could have bought a new Cobalt for the same price as that used one, which is to say for about the same payment over the same period, because 0.9% financing changes everything.

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    bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    Same thing I noticed. I had a later model car that I was putting maybe about $350 a month here and there, but in much larger lump sums all at once, and sometimes somewhat sporadically. Maybe I'd get hit with a $2000 repair, but maybe in the next year I'd get hit with little $400 items every other month

    It was easier just to get a used vehicle with a warranty. Brand new just is too expensive and you take a huge hit on your car's value.

    I'd definitely try to get financing and go newer if you can swing it (and have a job lined up).

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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    JasconiusJasconius sword criminal mad onlineRegistered User regular
    financing 7k at 20% might suck balls, but it's still better than spending your entire savings on a 1999 honda civic and having it fall to pieces in your driveway

    but you do need at least some employment ideally.

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    OrganichuOrganichu poops peesRegistered User, Moderator mod
    thanks for the input.

    i don't have a job secured in my new location yet, and i won't be purchasing until i've found work (as even with an old beater i'd rather not have insurance payments eat into my savings).

    i forgot to mention this dimension in the OP- it is i guess another reason to consider a cash-only vehicle. if i do finance something i was basically looking for a healthy down payment to establish a little leeway. not sure how realistic that is.

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    mcdermottmcdermott Registered User regular
    edited June 2014
    Organichu wrote: »
    thanks for the input.

    i don't have a job secured in my new location yet, and i won't be purchasing until i've found work (as even with an old beater i'd rather not have insurance payments eat into my savings).

    i forgot to mention this dimension in the OP- it is i guess another reason to consider a cash-only vehicle. if i do finance something i was basically looking for a healthy down payment to establish a little leeway. not sure how realistic that is.

    When I moved out here I was able to finance a car despite having less than a month in my job, at an interest rate that wasn't low but also wasn't extortionate (maybe 7%, if I recall? 8%?). It's doable.

    bowen wrote: »
    Same thing I noticed. I had a later model car that I was putting maybe about $350 a month here and there, but in much larger lump sums all at once, and sometimes somewhat sporadically. Maybe I'd get hit with a $2000 repair, but maybe in the next year I'd get hit with little $400 items every other month

    It was easier just to get a used vehicle with a warranty. Brand new just is too expensive and you take a huge hit on your car's value.

    I'd definitely try to get financing and go newer if you can swing it (and have a job lined up).

    If you're a savvy shopper you can sometimes (arguably) come out ahead on new over recent-used. Like I said, my payment and terms would have been roughly the same between new and used when I purchased (had I qualified for the sweetheart financing), but now I've got a new car. Which means if it does break down (which it won't) they'll probably tow the damn thing and throw me a rental/loaner on the spot, all without a dime out-of-pocket. It means everything is covered bumper-to-bumper for some reasonable number of years, and everything that determines whether it gets me to work and back is covered for a couple more beyond that. Plus, now when the time comes I'm selling a one-owner car with complete maintenance records, which can slightly bump the resale value (to offset the "driving it off the lot" hit). Additionally, if you wait until late in the model year when they're looking to clear out inventory, you can often minimize that "driving it off the lot" hit to boot.

    In many or most cases sure, it's a worse value. But once your credit is such that you can qualify for those sub-1% financing options? It's one worth at least looking at. I just try to avoid the general stigma of "never ever ever buy new."

    mcdermott on
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    DasUberEdwardDasUberEdward Registered User regular
    Organichu wrote: »
    thanks for the input.

    i don't have a job secured in my new location yet, and i won't be purchasing until i've found work (as even with an old beater i'd rather not have insurance payments eat into my savings).

    i forgot to mention this dimension in the OP- it is i guess another reason to consider a cash-only vehicle. if i do finance something i was basically looking for a healthy down payment to establish a little leeway. not sure how realistic that is.

    The biggest hurdle I can see is that a lot of financiers are going to want some time of employment.

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    bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    Yeah he'll probably need at least 6 months for financing. If chu can hold out that long before he breaks from bumming off people/using public transport then I'd look into it (and maybe through a 20% down payment at it)

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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    DasUberEdwardDasUberEdward Registered User regular
    He should be approved with 3 and a nice down payment if there isn't too much of a gap in employment.

    Honestly if purchasing the car before moving is an option I don't think it'd be the worst idea. You'd just want to make a much smaller down payment. Obviously job security is a concern here too. Did you have something lined up already or will you be on a fresh job search?

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    OrganichuOrganichu poops peesRegistered User, Moderator mod
    bumming/transit isn't an option. buying in advance also isn't an option, as i can't predict the length of unemployment once i move and my savings are modest. if i won't be able to finance while just beginning employment then i'll have to buy cash.

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    bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    edited June 2014
    Bummer.

    My plan at this point would be a junker after you secure your employment (so you're not paying insurance without a job). Then after a few years (maybe 3?) save up and get financing on a certified used car. That really seems to be your only option, or rather, the best option. You don't want to get financing at this point.

    bowen on
    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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    DasUberEdwardDasUberEdward Registered User regular
    Yeah you'll have to get a junker. Trade it in once you save about 1.5K. That would give you enough time of employment and enough of a down payment for financing.

    Bummer though. sorry Chu. :(

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    Reverend_ChaosReverend_Chaos Suit Up! Spokane WARegistered User regular
    If you are going to get a "junker" I would advise buying privately, and I personally would be looking for a car where the owner recently purchased a car or the children moved away or whatnot. I would also line up a mechanic to take it to and have them take a look at it. I would rather pay a mechanic $50-100 and know I am not buying several thousands of dollars in repairs.

    “Think of me like Yoda, but instead of being little and green I wear suits and I'm awesome. I'm your bro—I'm Broda!”
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    OrganichuOrganichu poops peesRegistered User, Moderator mod
    right, currently my idea is to look for a late 90s honda or toyota for ~2,500 (leaving me a couple hundred dollars for multiple mechanic consultations if the first car doesn't look good... and a couple hundred bucks for registration and so on)

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    DevoutlyApatheticDevoutlyApathetic Registered User regular
    If going junker then don't forget about sales tax which will probably be a couple hundred more. Hmm...maybe a little less since CO seems to have a base 2.9% rate.

    Nod. Get treat. PSN: Quippish
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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    To be frightfully honest with you, get yourself a job at your new location, then finance the newest, lowest mileage Corolla you can afford to make payments on.

    They don't break.

    A $2500 beater is going to end in heartbreak if you're not a gearhead yourself.

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    OrganichuOrganichu poops peesRegistered User, Moderator mod
    edited June 2014
    yeah. i dunno it's a lot to think about. i honestly hadn't considered the fact that i'd be asked for paystubs- i've never made a purchase this large. i figured a big down payment would sort of speak for itself.

    at this point i guess financing would only be an option if i went with a sort of crummy dealership- high rates and so on? i guess that wouldn't be the world's worst thing since it's a fairly small loan after the down payment. maybe worth it? unsure.

    i can definitely 'afford' modest payments once i find work, since my expenses are very minimal at my new location.

    Organichu on
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    PedroAsaniPedroAsani Brotherhood of the Squirrel [Prime]Registered User regular
    Organichu wrote: »
    thanks for the input.

    i don't have a job secured in my new location yet, and i won't be purchasing until i've found work (as even with an old beater i'd rather not have insurance payments eat into my savings).

    i forgot to mention this dimension in the OP- it is i guess another reason to consider a cash-only vehicle. if i do finance something i was basically looking for a healthy down payment to establish a little leeway. not sure how realistic that is.

    I bought a Camry 2010 with 14k miles, I had been in the country for two weeks. Financing was found through a credit union, which will be more likely than a bank to lend to you. The rate is about 8.4%, which is higher than I would like, but given I had 0 credit history I'm not complaining. Downpayment was $5000. I will refinance it shortly, so the payments will be reduced.

    I went through Toyota of Seattle, and they were familiar with new foreigners on work visas and so dealt with the credit union for me. I would imagine that a similar dealership could do something for you.

    Unless you want to fix up the car pretty frequently, I would go for something 5 years old or less. The benefit of a newer car is that you can get any issues with it fixed at the dealer, and an older one is more frequently covered by caveat emptor.

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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    Refinancing is really only a good idea when the original payments are totally screwing you over.

    Because the interest from the first loan that you had not yet paid off gets rolled into the second loan, and then you end up paying interest on the old interest.

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    bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    And plus you have to pay a fee for the transfer, something like 5% of the loan's value isn't unheard of.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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    PedroAsaniPedroAsani Brotherhood of the Squirrel [Prime]Registered User regular
    Refinancing is really only a good idea when the original payments are totally screwing you over.

    Because the interest from the first loan that you had not yet paid off gets rolled into the second loan, and then you end up paying interest on the old interest.

    Not with mine. I can settle the original balance at any time and the interest is only for the time I borrowed. Your way sounds horrendous.

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    Eat it You Nasty Pig.Eat it You Nasty Pig. tell homeland security 'we are the bomb'Registered User regular
    the kind of 'beater' you want to buy is one that's old but in good shape and/or hasn't actually been driven that much, and is a good make/model

    you know what doesn't show up on used car lots that often? Those. The people who own them either love them and drive them to death, or pass them to their nephew or whatever.

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    tinwhiskerstinwhiskers Registered User regular
    Okay, people are giving you tons of crappy advice here.

    1) Go buy an early 90s Oldsmobile or Buick. This should cost you like 1000 tops.
    2) Go take your remaining 2000, and get 20'' or larger rims.

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    TPSouTPSou Mr Registered User regular
    Just as an anecdote, I ran a five year old car for seven years (so it ended up as twelve years old) and in all that time I spent about £500 on repairs(then some consumables like oil and some tires). I bought a new car (a Kia C'eed) in 2009 and since then I've had to pay £300-400 a year on their stupid services (or I lose the warranty) and then about £200 on repairs.

    If you find a good semi-old car you might be able to get the best of both worlds and finance is never a great option in my opinion. You don't know what the future will bring and being tied to payments can be scary/restrictive.

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    GaslightGaslight Registered User regular
    edited June 2014
    TPSou wrote: »
    Just as an anecdote, I ran a five year old car for seven years (so it ended up as twelve years old) and in all that time I spent about £500 on repairs(then some consumables like oil and some tires). I bought a new car (a Kia C'eed) in 2009 and since then I've had to pay £300-400 a year on their stupid services (or I lose the warranty) and then about £200 on repairs.

    You really lose the warranty if you go to someone else for your regular service? In the US there is a federal law which actually prohibits dealers and car manufacturers from trying to pull that kind of bullshit. Don't know what the laws are where you are. Of course, even in the US, some dealers will still try to tell people going to Valvoline for an oil change instead of the dealership voids their warranty, and some people still believe them.

    Gaslight on
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    bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    Yeah if I do my own oil change or my own brakes how are they going to know? Shouldn't matter if my transmission goes, that's a warranty item, not my oil changes.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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    DjeetDjeet Registered User regular
    bowen wrote: »
    Yeah if I do my own oil change or my own brakes how are they going to know? Shouldn't matter if my transmission goes, that's a warranty item, not my oil changes.

    Since the faulting piece is unrelated to the self-done service I don't think they'd try to get away with that. Though they'd probably want to see evidence that the tranny was properly maintained (e.g. some record that the fluid was flushed or filter changed if the maintenance schedule had required such before it failed).

    A friend of mine had an engine go while it was under warranty, and the dealership wanted proof that all the oil changes had been done in a timely fashion. Since he didn't always get dealer services he had to go track down all his receipts from 3rd party shops he had oil changes done before dealer would honor. Turns out that during the last service (done by dealership) some hose/line wasn't reattached causing either an oil-starved or an overheat situation.

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    Donkey KongDonkey Kong Putting Nintendo out of business with AI nips Registered User regular
    I bought my first car from a family friend for about $2000, saved up over a summer of working tech support. It needed about $1000 of work in the first year (tires, brakes, wheel bearings) and then just standard maintenance after that. It served me very well for about 6 years before I gave it up.

    I recommend something like that. It's an option in between a complete beater (low cost, high risk) and something off a used car lot (moderate cost, moderate risk). It can take some time for something ok to come up though, and you definitely don't get to pick from a variety of cars. You just take what you can get.

    Thousands of hot, local singles are waiting to play at bubbulon.com.
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    Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    Djeet wrote: »
    bowen wrote: »
    Yeah if I do my own oil change or my own brakes how are they going to know? Shouldn't matter if my transmission goes, that's a warranty item, not my oil changes.

    Since the faulting piece is unrelated to the self-done service I don't think they'd try to get away with that. Though they'd probably want to see evidence that the tranny was properly maintained (e.g. some record that the fluid was flushed or filter changed if the maintenance schedule had required such before it failed).

    A friend of mine had an engine go while it was under warranty, and the dealership wanted proof that all the oil changes had been done in a timely fashion. Since he didn't always get dealer services he had to go track down all his receipts from 3rd party shops he had oil changes done before dealer would honor. Turns out that during the last service (done by dealership) some hose/line wasn't reattached causing either an oil-starved or an overheat situation.

    The thing with oil starvation is you get very severe localised overheating, generally around crankshaft and big-end bearings. Metal melts and welds to other metal, then conrods break and punch holes in the sides of engine blocks and everyone has a bad day.

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    OrganichuOrganichu poops peesRegistered User, Moderator mod
    ok so either

    'spend a couple grand on a 15 year old car just don't buy anything that looks super shitty and you'll probably get a reasonable value once you put some money into it'

    or

    'finance a more recent year car, old cars are pieces of shit that will drain you of every last dollar'

    i am glad we have achieved consensus, friends

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    admanbadmanb unionize your workplace Seattle, WARegistered User regular
    Organichu wrote: »
    ok so either

    'spend a couple grand on a 15 year old car just don't buy anything that looks super shitty and you'll probably get a reasonable value once you put some money into it'

    or

    'finance a more recent year car, old cars are pieces of shit that will drain you of every last dollar'

    i am glad we have achieved consensus, friends

    Cars: you're fucked either way.

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    AiouaAioua Ora Occidens Ora OptimaRegistered User regular
    Cars are large, complicated machines with a zillion moving parts that have to operate at a wide range of temperatures, be left out in the elements, be subject to bumps and rattling at 80 miles an hour, and--lest we forget--contain 100 explosions a second.

    Its a miracle they work at all.

    life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
    fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
    that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
    bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
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    OrganichuOrganichu poops peesRegistered User, Moderator mod
    edited June 2015
    I like when people update these things so here goes: I got a job within walking distance so I had a chance to save up/establish job history. I finally needed a car and I ended up financing. 2008 Altima with 64k miles. I think I got a decent purchase price and managed to get right around 5% which I thought was ok with no co signer as a first time buyer. Even insurance was cheaper than I feared given I'm a brand new driver (comprehensive coverage worked out to about 110 a month).

    In actuarial terms I probably would have been better off financially if I'd bought a clunker- but I'm happy with my choice. The peace of mind is super nice.

    Organichu on
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    CabezoneCabezone Registered User regular
    Buying a clunker is more of a gamble. I'm a fan of buying mid mileage used.

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