The official Forge World and Games Workshop painting galleries are up. My Stone Crusher Carnifex and Dimachaeron made it onto the former, while the Heldrake is on the latter.
Geedubs have made me very happy.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Holy crap, congrats! Thats some nice company you're sharing those pages with, you deserve it!
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited October 2016
Awesome. I was wondering what their plan was for those. I think like 4 or 5 of my photos had GW asking permission to use them but they never really said what for.
Hopefully this stuff starts showing up in White Dwarf. It's a great way to get community engagement.
Out of curiosity, why shouldn't you use a toothpick for fine details?
You can get a sharper point with a brush and you don't risk damaging the paint job.
It's a static contact point, so you don't have to worry about accidentally hitting a nearby surface. You aren't jabbing the model, so you aren't going to damage the paint job. You don't really drag it across the model so much as just lightly touch it to apply the paint, or kind of hover it over just barely letting the paint touch.
Like hono's link, its useful for hitting small spots / making uniform lines.
e:
If you have a really good thin/small brush it's probably not an issue.
e2:
Personally it gives me a lot more control over really fine detail, since I have much greater control over the amount of paint being applied. The toothpick isn't soaking up extra.
Morkath on
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Which is precisely the problem. Goopy half-dry paint or a bead of appropriately wet paint are both bad. The brush doesn't need to be small. It just needs a good point.
I'm not opposed to improvisation in creating art, art bell used a pallet knife for his signature style all the time for example. But when learning it's better to just try to do better with the brushes at first so you can improve those skills. Painting mini's can be a really long road, I would think pointy sticks of wood make poor building blocks outside of super specified reasons, or wanting to learn a specific style that utilized them.
From the description of implementation, it sounds like a toothpick is getting used in place of a brush where a it would be practice in the realm of brush control. And that a brush pretty much has advantage in every way. It's hard, and you might mess up, if you mess up, you get to learn how to fix mistakes
Maybe it works super well and I'm an idiot, I'd just hate to see someone learn to use a shortcut that dead ends while with a brush you could probably do better, eventually.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I used a toothpick for eye lenses once. It just didn't work and a brush worked wonders once I learned a little control. I'm not saying that a toothpick doesn't have uses in painting miniatures, but you're going to get better results in the long run with a good brush.
Hell, I refused to thin my paints for years, and when I finally did it was like I opened a door to a whole new building of techniques I couldn't have done otherwise and my painting has only improved because of it.
Speaking of refusing to thin paints, does anyone still have those civil war signature pictures about thinning paints vs. not thinning?
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Nova_CI have the needThe need for speedRegistered Userregular
The two brushes I bought were Escoda Kalinsky 0 and 1, which came pretty highly recommended and weren't expensive. The 0 has a pretty good point, but I found it super easy for a stray strand of the brush to pop out and leave a tiny mark where you don't want it.
I hope I'm not ruining the brushes with bad technique.
So with the advice of the thread I started figuring out what I want to do with my plague drones. spoilered is the prototype that I want to use with all of them.
Narratively, the venomlord sent 100 clan rats down into the burrows, and 9 returned with 3 plague drones. 2 dragging and 1 riding each.
So I'm using floral wire to mount, which seems pretty steady without actually attaching it to the clanrats. I'm going to greenstuff it so it looks like rope(hopefully), and have it going over their shoulders and into their hands. I think I want the wire to be attached to the base thoug hand not have an expensive model dependant on 2 glue points on clanrats. I need to straighten the floral wire so it looks taught on the lines between the minis after securing.
Bought some black oil paint, mineral spirits, and a bottle of that Vallejo metal medium. After I finish my chick's face and touch everything up I think I'll be done with #1. I need to see where the cheapest 28MM bases are unless I get a wild hair and try to bake my own.
The two brushes I bought were Escoda Kalinsky 0 and 1, which came pretty highly recommended and weren't expensive. The 0 has a pretty good point, but I found it super easy for a stray strand of the brush to pop out and leave a tiny mark where you don't want it.
I hope I'm not ruining the brushes with bad technique.
If you got from amazon, there's some contention that they are selling mistake/reject brushes apparently? I don't know if thats bullshit or what. Brush soap can work wonders on keeping brushes in shape though. 5-8$ will easily save you multiple brushes before you have to buy more, well worth the cost if you paint more than occasionally.
So with the advice of the thread I started figuring out what I want to do with my plague drones. spoilered is the prototype that I want to use with all of them.
Narratively, the venomlord sent 100 clan rats down into the burrows, and 9 returned with 3 plague drones. 2 dragging and 1 riding each.
So I'm using floral wire to mount, which seems pretty steady without actually attaching it to the clanrats. I'm going to greenstuff it so it looks like rope(hopefully), and have it going over their shoulders and into their hands. I think I want the wire to be attached to the base thoug hand not have an expensive model dependant on 2 glue points on clanrats. I need to straighten the floral wire so it looks taught on the lines between the minis after securing.
Yesssss, ratsgiving day parade floats!
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Nova_CI have the needThe need for speedRegistered Userregular
The two brushes I bought were Escoda Kalinsky 0 and 1, which came pretty highly recommended and weren't expensive. The 0 has a pretty good point, but I found it super easy for a stray strand of the brush to pop out and leave a tiny mark where you don't want it.
I hope I'm not ruining the brushes with bad technique.
If you got from amazon, there's some contention that they are selling mistake/reject brushes apparently? I don't know if thats bullshit or what. Brush soap can work wonders on keeping brushes in shape though. 5-8$ will easily save you multiple brushes before you have to buy more, well worth the cost if you paint more than occasionally.
Found a bunch of old models, that I had in a bin to use as monsters, when playing rpgs. Thought I should pull some of them out to put in my paint queue.
You know what, nevermind, let's just put these back and never look at them again...
I've only ever seen their "ultra detail plastic." There are definite artifacts from their printing process with that material. It's easy to see on large surfaces like that cloak above. However, it's not all that bad and it's something I'd be willing to live with because the minis are pretty nice.
They have several other materials that I think they might cast traditionally? Those would probably be better but are also more expensive.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
I've got the "durable" plastic (SLS print) and it's much less clear on detail, more useful for simple models with simple schemes that will see a lot of use.
I'm curious as to how their "gray plastic" option is. It looks a lot like the kind of plastic that goes into Warhammer models?
I don't think Hero Forge does traditional casts, seeing as their entire deal is designing one-off minis and 3d printing them via Shapeways.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
I'm considering doing shoulder/kneepads in black because I'm not really a fan of monochromatic Space Marine schemes, so I'm trying some streaking/weathering on the kneepads before I cover that up.
I support the black/shoulders and knees! Death to the monochrome!
In my own painting news, man I decided on way too complicated of a scheme for my battlemech starter miniatures. Honestly the casting quality of the miniatures aren't good enough to support a detailed paint scheme. It's really hard to say, pick out the panels on the legs in a different color when the panels aren't even consistently shaped on the two legs of the same mech.
I'm definitely painting up the other half in a much more simplified scheme.
Three weeks after having our first kid I'm getting a little free time again. Having some project ADD, but I've had Daemon Princes on the mind (Infernal Tetrad is really cool) so I started throwing this Khorne Prince together last night.
Still a lot to do obviously, but I'm happy in how it's coming together so far!
My monster mash obsession approves.
I was never a fan of that khorne head though, I can't unsee it's derpy little smile.
yeah I'm not sold on that head either. But it's the best I have and I kinda like how small it is on the body.
I was going to do a bitz order on eBay for some parts for a couple princes, but $20 of bitz cost almost $30 to ship. No way. My many spawn sprues will have to do for now.
If you have something cool in your bitz box I'm open to taking donations
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I'm still working through these Beastclaw Raiders, big models take a long time to paint! Also these photos aren't very good...
The two monsters I already painted for my Ogres needed new round bases:
The Yhetee sculpts are a little old and doofy, but they're not too bad.
Hunters and stuff:
And some Mournfang, which I am very pleased with, but it did take my, like, two months to get through four of them, so...
I still have four more Mournfang and two monster kits to assemble, and I'll probably want a third to round out the options. But I'm going to the Grand Tournament in January, so that gives me some incentive to get things done.
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Nova_CI have the needThe need for speedRegistered Userregular
So, I tried the spiders, and they turned out all right, but I'm having a lot of trouble making anything that's not already defined on the mini clean.
You mean on the yellow stripes?
It looks like you have too much paint on the brush, and you may want to learn to thin it when you are using it. The rest is brush control, which will come in time if that doesnt clear up/isnt the issue.
If you have something major mess up, dont be afraid to go back and fix it (in this case, the brown over the yellow overrun).Also the next step would be to wash the model, which can fix minor blemishes like overruns. Washes are basically cheating. It's amazing.
Posts
Geedubs have made me very happy.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Hopefully this stuff starts showing up in White Dwarf. It's a great way to get community engagement.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Out of curiosity, why shouldn't you use a toothpick for fine details?
You can get a sharper point with a brush and you don't risk damaging the paint job.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
fake edit - Cocktail sticks:
https://sproketsmallworld.blogspot.de/2011/11/dark-eldar-diorama-scourge-wings-step.html
It's a static contact point, so you don't have to worry about accidentally hitting a nearby surface. You aren't jabbing the model, so you aren't going to damage the paint job. You don't really drag it across the model so much as just lightly touch it to apply the paint, or kind of hover it over just barely letting the paint touch.
Like hono's link, its useful for hitting small spots / making uniform lines.
e:
If you have a really good thin/small brush it's probably not an issue.
e2:
Personally it gives me a lot more control over really fine detail, since I have much greater control over the amount of paint being applied. The toothpick isn't soaking up extra.
Which is precisely the problem. Goopy half-dry paint or a bead of appropriately wet paint are both bad. The brush doesn't need to be small. It just needs a good point.
But, hey, do what works for you.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
From the description of implementation, it sounds like a toothpick is getting used in place of a brush where a it would be practice in the realm of brush control. And that a brush pretty much has advantage in every way. It's hard, and you might mess up, if you mess up, you get to learn how to fix mistakes
Maybe it works super well and I'm an idiot, I'd just hate to see someone learn to use a shortcut that dead ends while with a brush you could probably do better, eventually.
Hell, I refused to thin my paints for years, and when I finally did it was like I opened a door to a whole new building of techniques I couldn't have done otherwise and my painting has only improved because of it.
Speaking of refusing to thin paints, does anyone still have those civil war signature pictures about thinning paints vs. not thinning?
I hope I'm not ruining the brushes with bad technique.
Narratively, the venomlord sent 100 clan rats down into the burrows, and 9 returned with 3 plague drones. 2 dragging and 1 riding each.
So I'm using floral wire to mount, which seems pretty steady without actually attaching it to the clanrats. I'm going to greenstuff it so it looks like rope(hopefully), and have it going over their shoulders and into their hands. I think I want the wire to be attached to the base thoug hand not have an expensive model dependant on 2 glue points on clanrats. I need to straighten the floral wire so it looks taught on the lines between the minis after securing.
If you got from amazon, there's some contention that they are selling mistake/reject brushes apparently? I don't know if thats bullshit or what. Brush soap can work wonders on keeping brushes in shape though. 5-8$ will easily save you multiple brushes before you have to buy more, well worth the cost if you paint more than occasionally.
edit: this is the stuff, this much will last you near forever: https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475780837&sr=8-1&keywords=brush+soap
Yesssss, ratsgiving day parade floats!
I bought my brushes and brush soap from a Canadian hobby shop website, although the name already escapes me.
That is the brush soap I bought, though.
You know what, nevermind, let's just put these back and never look at them again...
Nightshade, Kraken and Cataphract
Voodoo, Gnomic and Reaper (Gnomic's window will get a wash momentarily)
All together!
Think I might redo the glass on the Nightshade so it matches the rest.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
They have several other materials that I think they might cast traditionally? Those would probably be better but are also more expensive.
I'm curious as to how their "gray plastic" option is. It looks a lot like the kind of plastic that goes into Warhammer models?
I don't think Hero Forge does traditional casts, seeing as their entire deal is designing one-off minis and 3d printing them via Shapeways.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
I'm considering doing shoulder/kneepads in black because I'm not really a fan of monochromatic Space Marine schemes, so I'm trying some streaking/weathering on the kneepads before I cover that up.
In my own painting news, man I decided on way too complicated of a scheme for my battlemech starter miniatures. Honestly the casting quality of the miniatures aren't good enough to support a detailed paint scheme. It's really hard to say, pick out the panels on the legs in a different color when the panels aren't even consistently shaped on the two legs of the same mech.
I'm definitely painting up the other half in a much more simplified scheme.
Still a lot to do obviously, but I'm happy in how it's coming together so far!
I was never a fan of that khorne head though, I can't unsee it's derpy little smile.
yeah I'm not sold on that head either. But it's the best I have and I kinda like how small it is on the body.
I was going to do a bitz order on eBay for some parts for a couple princes, but $20 of bitz cost almost $30 to ship. No way. My many spawn sprues will have to do for now.
If you have something cool in your bitz box I'm open to taking donations
The two monsters I already painted for my Ogres needed new round bases:
The Yhetee sculpts are a little old and doofy, but they're not too bad.
Hunters and stuff:
And some Mournfang, which I am very pleased with, but it did take my, like, two months to get through four of them, so...
I still have four more Mournfang and two monster kits to assemble, and I'll probably want a third to round out the options. But I'm going to the Grand Tournament in January, so that gives me some incentive to get things done.
It looks like you have too much paint on the brush, and you may want to learn to thin it when you are using it. The rest is brush control, which will come in time if that doesnt clear up/isnt the issue.
If you have something major mess up, dont be afraid to go back and fix it (in this case, the brown over the yellow overrun).Also the next step would be to wash the model, which can fix minor blemishes like overruns. Washes are basically cheating. It's amazing.