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Dealing with debt collection agency

HighPoweredMutantHighPoweredMutant Registered User regular
edited June 2010 in Help / Advice Forum
I have an unpaid credit card that went to a debt collection agency. The agency sent me a letter stating that i could settle in full all at once for 40% off the full amount, with 6 payments for a total of 25% off, or 12 payments for a total of 10% off.

They want me to decide how I am going to do it by July 07. I am going to be moving into a place where my rent will be considerably cheaper, I also filled out and sent the forms so that taxes will stop being withheld from my checks in order to have greater liquidity now. One of my student loans will also be paid off within 3-4 months from now, so that will free up funds.

If everything goes ok I should be able to afford the 25% off plan. However, my car is not in the greatest shape and if I need to fix it within the first couple months of moving this would be disastrous, since I will now be commuting from my new home. After that I will have gotten enough ahead to be able to deal with everything.

How important is it that I decide and begin paying by the 7th? Is there any room to negotiate on the amount paid, and the timeframe in which it is paid? Will they withdraw the offers and make me pay the full amount if I don't pay by the 7th.

I am trying to get my finances and my life on track and will appreciate any insight that can be offered, as I have never dealt with anything like this before.

Thank you.

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  • Eat it You Nasty Pig.Eat it You Nasty Pig. tell homeland security 'we are the bomb'Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    It's pretty important that you come to some agreement with the agency and get this resolved as soon as possible, yes. Did you talk with the agency rep about your specific situation, or just read the form letter?

    Basically, what has happened is that the agency bought your debt, and their goal now is to collect enough of it to make money while spending as little time mucking around with you as possible (which is why they will eat 40% of it if you pay right now.) If you call the agency and explain your situation and that you want to settle the debt as soon as possible, they will probably work with you on a payment plan that works for your finances.

    Eat it You Nasty Pig. on
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  • HighPoweredMutantHighPoweredMutant Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I called and spoke briefly with a guy that said you basically decide which one you are going to pay and do it by the 7th. He was fairly curt and did not seem open for any discussion at all. Did I just get the wrong person?

    I am not sure what the type of things that I can ask for and expect to get are. Is a time extension possible in these circumstances? Can I pay what I can now and make smaller payments over the months for some amount between the 40 and 25%? He did not seem willing to discuss anything of the sort.

    HighPoweredMutant on
  • 3lwap03lwap0 Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    It would behoove you to read this:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_Debt_Collection_Practices_Act


    Also, no matter what shit they talk, you have the right to negotiate. You can't pay what you don't have. They take a hard line on folks because they don't trust you any further than they can throw you (rightly so in many cases).

    The real downside to this is your credit rating - it's going to take a heckuva hit on this.

    3lwap0 on
  • GenlyAiGenlyAi Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    The reason they are willing to knock 15% off the price if you pay it now is that they think there's a decent chance you'll never pay it if they give you six months. This is what they fear the most. So put the fear of God into them.

    Tell them you have 40% of the amount owed right now, and you could give it to them, or you could always just bring it down to the racetrack and maybe you'll have good news for them tomorrow. Seem like a deadbeat. Do NOT tell them you're trying to get your finances in order.

    If the debt is small enough, they have very little leverage except your credit rating. Make them think that doesn't matter to you. (If the debt's big enough, then it might be worth it to them to go after your paycheck.)

    Note that paying this off probably won't help your credit score, BUT if you're thinking of getting any big loans soon, you'll probably have to pay it at some point.

    GenlyAi on
  • HighPoweredMutantHighPoweredMutant Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Well the debt is 2800 dollars, is this considered big? So the 40% off comes off to them wanting 1700 dollars. I could probably pay between 600 to 1000 depending on how my move goes by the 7th. Maybe if I give them that then pay a couple hundred for say 5 more months they would square it away? From the responses it seems that such negotiations are possible, I just got a bad operator.

    I read somewhere that you should try to negotiate at the end of the month because they go off of commission and are more likely to deal then. Anyone know of this? If this is true then if i call at the end of June I'll have a better idea of what my move is going to cost me and how much money I will have available, and then negotiate.

    I will also read about the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act, thank you for the link.

    HighPoweredMutant on
  • GenlyAiGenlyAi Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Not sure if that's big or not. I would have thought so, but I've had an $8000 collection against me for 3 years and they've never come after me (not even by phone), so what do I know.

    Anyway, you should definitely negotiate. Dude on the phone was just being a hardass, but you have to make it seem like what you can pay right now (say $800, 29%) is all you'll ever be able to pay. They may well have paid only 5,10,20% for this account. Even if they paid 30%, they're still better off taking 29% than nothing. Your job is to convince them those are the only choices.

    GenlyAi on
  • FeralFeral MEMETICHARIZARD interior crocodile alligator ⇔ ǝɹʇɐǝɥʇ ǝᴉʌoɯ ʇǝloɹʌǝɥɔ ɐ ǝʌᴉɹp ᴉRegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    $2800 is not huge. The average credit card balance is around $3000-4000, depending on what stats you're looking at. (That's not taking $0 balances into account.)

    What the above posters are saying is true. They're being hard because they think they can scare you. At this point, you've already defaulted on the credit card - your credit rating is already fucked. So at this point, they shouldn't be able to threaten you with more credit damage as the damage has already been done. Just stick to your guns, they'll negotiate.

    Feral on
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  • Reverend_ChaosReverend_Chaos Suit Up! Spokane WARegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I recently did quite a bit of research on this recently.

    First, they may not be able to legally go after you for the money - different states have different statutes - in Washington state where I live - you have 3 years to start collection, or they can't go after you for it, i.e. sue you, or garnish your paycheck - so check your state statutes before you do ANYTHING.

    Next if you want to buy yourself some time past their "deadline" then send them a letter disputing the charges - they have to prove that you legally owe the debt, AND that they are legally able to pursue you for it.

    Here is a sample of a letter that I use.
    Your Name
    Your Address

    Their name and addressed

    Date:

    CRRR #

    Re: Acct #

    To Whom It May Concern:

    Please be advised that this letter is not only a formal dispute, but a request that you cease and desist any and all phone calls to me, my relatives, my employer, my friends, and my neighbors.

    If you need to contact me, I am hereby requesting that you do so only through the mail at:

    Your Address Here

    This letter is being sent to you in response to your attached letter.

    This is not a refusal to pay, but a notice that your claim is disputed.

    Under the Fair Debt Collections Practices Act (FDCPA), I have the right to request validation of the debt you say I owe you. I am requesting proof that I am indeed the party you are asking to pay this debt, and there is some contractual obligation which is binding on me to pay this debt.

    Your legal staff will agree that compliance with this request is required under the laws of Washington state and Federal Statutes.

    In addition to the questionnaire below, please attach copies of:

    Agreement with your client that grants you the authority to collect on this alleged debt, or proof of acquisition by purchase or assignment.

    Agreement that bears the signature of the alleged debtor wherein he or she agreed to pay the creditor.

    I require compliance with the terms and conditions of this letter within 30 days or a complete withdrawal, in writing, of any claim.

    In the event of noncompliance, I reserve the right to file charges and/or complaints with appropriate County, State & Federal authorities ,the BBB and State Bar associations for violations of the FDCPA, FCRA, and Federal and State statutes on fraudulent extortion .

    I also hereby reserve my right to take private civil action against you to recover damages.

    Sincerely,





    Your Name Here (sign above)
    And I include this Debt Validation letter
    Debt Validation Form

    Questionnaire to be returned :

    Account #: ____________________


    Original Creditor's Name:______________________________


    Name of Debtor:___________________________


    Address of Debtor:________________________


    Balance of Account:____________________________


    Date you acquired this debt:_____________________________


    This Debt was: assigned ___purchased___

    Please indicated any credit bureaus to which
    you have reported on this account:

    Experian ______

    Equifax ______

    TransUnion _____

    Next - don't negotiate with them over the phone - the guys on the phone are paid to get as much money from you as fast as possible, and their job sucks and they don't care about you or your situation. If you send them the above letters and they respond and you want to get this taken care of - send them a wrtitten counter offer and you can offer your own terms, such as taking the 40% off, but taking the payment plan of the 10% off. They will generally work with you as long as you are going to pay them. And finally, remember that these guys bought your debt for pennies on the dollar, so chances are, even with the 40% off, they are obviously making money off you, so I would even counter with paying half of what you owe. Get the terms in writing and make sure that it concludes the debt, so that they can't just sell off the unpaid portion!!

    Good luck.

    Reverend_Chaos on
    “Think of me like Yoda, but instead of being little and green I wear suits and I'm awesome. I'm your bro—I'm Broda!”
  • GenlyAiGenlyAi Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Get the terms in writing and make sure that it concludes the debt, so that they can't just sell off the unpaid portion!!

    Good luck.

    GenlyAi on
  • Reverend_ChaosReverend_Chaos Suit Up! Spokane WARegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    GenlyAi wrote: »
    Get the terms in writing and make sure that it concludes the debt, so that they can't just sell off the unpaid portion!!

    Good luck.

    Yeah, isn't that some sneaky shit.

    Reverend_Chaos on
    “Think of me like Yoda, but instead of being little and green I wear suits and I'm awesome. I'm your bro—I'm Broda!”
  • krushkrush Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I recently did quite a bit of research on this recently.

    First, they may not be able to legally go after you for the money - different states have different statutes - in Washington state where I live - you have 3 years to start collection, or they can't go after you for it, i.e. sue you, or garnish your paycheck - so check your state statutes before you do ANYTHING.

    Next if you want to buy yourself some time past their "deadline" then send them a letter disputing the charges - they have to prove that you legally owe the debt, AND that they are legally able to pursue you for it.

    Here is a sample of a letter that I use.
    Your Name
    Your Address

    Their name and addressed

    Date:

    CRRR #

    Re: Acct #

    To Whom It May Concern:

    Please be advised that this letter is not only a formal dispute, but a request that you cease and desist any and all phone calls to me, my relatives, my employer, my friends, and my neighbors.

    If you need to contact me, I am hereby requesting that you do so only through the mail at:

    Your Address Here

    This letter is being sent to you in response to your attached letter.

    This is not a refusal to pay, but a notice that your claim is disputed.

    Under the Fair Debt Collections Practices Act (FDCPA), I have the right to request validation of the debt you say I owe you. I am requesting proof that I am indeed the party you are asking to pay this debt, and there is some contractual obligation which is binding on me to pay this debt.

    Your legal staff will agree that compliance with this request is required under the laws of Washington state and Federal Statutes.

    In addition to the questionnaire below, please attach copies of:

    Agreement with your client that grants you the authority to collect on this alleged debt, or proof of acquisition by purchase or assignment.

    Agreement that bears the signature of the alleged debtor wherein he or she agreed to pay the creditor.

    I require compliance with the terms and conditions of this letter within 30 days or a complete withdrawal, in writing, of any claim.

    In the event of noncompliance, I reserve the right to file charges and/or complaints with appropriate County, State & Federal authorities ,the BBB and State Bar associations for violations of the FDCPA, FCRA, and Federal and State statutes on fraudulent extortion .

    I also hereby reserve my right to take private civil action against you to recover damages.

    Sincerely,





    Your Name Here (sign above)
    And I include this Debt Validation letter
    Debt Validation Form

    Questionnaire to be returned :

    Account #: ____________________


    Original Creditor's Name:______________________________


    Name of Debtor:___________________________


    Address of Debtor:________________________


    Balance of Account:____________________________


    Date you acquired this debt:_____________________________


    This Debt was: assigned ___purchased___

    Please indicated any credit bureaus to which
    you have reported on this account:

    Experian ______

    Equifax ______

    TransUnion _____

    Next - don't negotiate with them over the phone - the guys on the phone are paid to get as much money from you as fast as possible, and their job sucks and they don't care about you or your situation. If you send them the above letters and they respond and you want to get this taken care of - send them a wrtitten counter offer and you can offer your own terms, such as taking the 40% off, but taking the payment plan of the 10% off. They will generally work with you as long as you are going to pay them. And finally, remember that these guys bought your debt for pennies on the dollar, so chances are, even with the 40% off, they are obviously making money off you, so I would even counter with paying half of what you owe. Get the terms in writing and make sure that it concludes the debt, so that they can't just sell off the unpaid portion!!

    Good luck.


    I was going to post something similar to this myself.

    krush on
  • KakodaimonosKakodaimonos Code fondler Helping the 1% get richerRegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I'm not going to add anything to what people have said about dealing with the collection agencies, but I do want to mention that this
    I also filled out and sent the forms so that taxes will stop being withheld from my checks in order to have greater liquidity now.

    is not a great idea. You are still going to owe taxes, but now that they're not getting withheld, you'll be paying a large chunk sometime next year. And unlike consumer debt which is just a civil case, not paying state and federal taxes can have nasty consequences. Unless you're really, really good at saving money to cover your taxes or you're absolutely, totally 100% sure you're going to get enough credits and rebates to not have to pay any taxes, I'd reconsider lowering your withholdings.

    Kakodaimonos on
  • KathrisKathris __BANNED USERS regular
    edited June 2010
    Or instead of looking for legal loopholes, you could just pay the amount with 40% off now, thank your lucky stars you didnt have to pay all of it, and start living well beneath your means.

    Kathris on
    673478-1.png
  • HighPoweredMutantHighPoweredMutant Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    If I had the 1700 available I would pay it, but I don't. I just basically don't want to pay in July because I have so much going on. I think that I am just going to call and negotiate toward the end of the month, see if they'll let me pay what i can, and if not ill just pick the 12 month/ 10% plan which while making me pay a larger amount, the monthly payment is easily affordable while keeping funds liquid for possible car repair.

    With regards to the tax withholdings, I've already paid 6 months worth of taxes. If I need to pay any more I'll have it by tax time next year. I don't spend my money frivolously, the unpaid debt was charged up by my mother, and by the time I realized what had happened, I had no money and it went to collections shortly after. The debt is still my responsibility and I intend to pay something, I just need to know what my options are.

    HighPoweredMutant on
  • mrt144mrt144 King of the Numbernames Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I'm not going to add anything to what people have said about dealing with the collection agencies, but I do want to mention that this
    I also filled out and sent the forms so that taxes will stop being withheld from my checks in order to have greater liquidity now.

    is not a great idea. You are still going to owe taxes, but now that they're not getting withheld, you'll be paying a large chunk sometime next year. And unlike consumer debt which is just a civil case, not paying state and federal taxes can have nasty consequences. Unless you're really, really good at saving money to cover your taxes or you're absolutely, totally 100% sure you're going to get enough credits and rebates to not have to pay any taxes, I'd reconsider lowering your withholdings.

    This will have an even greater impact in 2011 when tax rates go back to pre bush levels.

    mrt144 on
  • edited June 2010
    This content has been removed.

  • FeatherBladeFeatherBlade Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I think that I am just going to call and negotiate toward the end of the month,

    Okay...First, it would be a better idea to follow Reverend_Chase's advice and negotiate by mail, that is, in writing.

    Collection agents will not feel themselves bound to honor mere verbal agreements.

    Second, if you do negotiate payment for less than what you owe do not pay them with a personal check or via electronic transfer. Heck, don't do this no matter what you negotiate.

    Pay them with a cashiers check or money order. If you give them access to your account routing information, they will take every penny you owe, regardless of the payment agreement you've made with them.

    FeatherBlade on
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  • JasconiusJasconius sword criminal mad onlineRegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    You can always go with the 10% of 25% plan and then when you think you have enough, negotiate a final payoff for a reduced sum.

    The important thing to understand, as revealed by the fact that they are allowing you already to take 40% off the top, is that they are still making money with 40% off the top. Maybe not immediately, but what they do is they say "well, if we had 60% of 3000 now, we could invest it and make 3000 in the time it will take this dude to actually pay us 3000".

    The second important thing to understand is that debt collection agencies JUST. WANT. ANYTHING. they can get their hands on.

    If you called them tomorrow and said "I have the checkbook in my hands right now, I am prepared to write you a check today for 50% off to close the account, if you can't do that, then I'll have to alter my budget and go with monthly installments of [insert some low amount here] over [some big number] of months.", I guarantee you they will at least consider it.


    Debt collectors talk a big game, but the reality is that if you have any sort of real money to leverage in negotiation you have them by the balls, and not the other way around.

    Also, when they say that you have to decide by July 7th, what they mean is the offer they have made is only valid until the 7th, at which point it will be recalculated and the exact amounts will change slightly (read: get higher) to compensate for the delay in actually getting any return.

    If you want my advice, if you can't actually go with the big money payoff, what I would do is just give them something piddly, like 50 or 100 bucks a month, and take all the money you would have been paying them in the 12 or 6 month plan, put in a savings account, and in 12 months when it has accrued to a real sum, then ask for the big payoff. That way you can still take a big chunk off of the principal in the final payoff without crippling yourself short term. The catch is you have to be disciplined and not dip into it for other reasons.

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  • Reverend_ChaosReverend_Chaos Suit Up! Spokane WARegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I think that I am just going to call and negotiate toward the end of the month,

    Okay...First, it would be a better idea to follow Reverend_Chase's advice and negotiate by mail, that is, in writing.

    Collection agents will not feel themselves bound to honor mere verbal agreements.

    Second, if you do negotiate payment for less than what you owe do not pay them with a personal check or via electronic transfer. Heck, don't do this no matter what you negotiate.

    Pay them with a cashiers check or money order. If you give them access to your account routing information, they will take every penny you owe, regardless of the payment agreement you've made with them.

    I forgot to mention that. Limed for TRUTH.

    Seriously, don't negotiate over the phone. Those are the guys that they pay to strong arm you. They are legalized mafia arm-breakers. Seriously, write your terms down and mail them to them.

    Reverend_Chaos on
    “Think of me like Yoda, but instead of being little and green I wear suits and I'm awesome. I'm your bro—I'm Broda!”
  • George Fornby GrillGeorge Fornby Grill ...Like Clockwork Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3234974
    That SA thread is 12 kinds of informative. You're not in the position the OP was in, obviously, but the first page confirms some of the things people have said already, and adds other things.

    George Fornby Grill on
  • VisionOfClarityVisionOfClarity Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Did this company buy the debt or are they collecting on behalf of the current company and getting a cut of what they collect?

    If it's the latter they most likely won't and can't negotiate further as they are bound to settlement terms determined by the company who you owe the debt to. I worked for a company that did collections for other companies and each company had a percentage you couldn't settle below without the company's approval, and that rarely happened.

    VisionOfClarity on
  • bowenbowen Sup? Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I think that I am just going to call and negotiate toward the end of the month,

    Okay...First, it would be a better idea to follow Reverend_Chase's advice and negotiate by mail, that is, in writing.

    Collection agents will not feel themselves bound to honor mere verbal agreements.

    Second, if you do negotiate payment for less than what you owe do not pay them with a personal check or via electronic transfer. Heck, don't do this no matter what you negotiate.

    Pay them with a cashiers check or money order. If you give them access to your account routing information, they will take every penny you owe, regardless of the payment agreement you've made with them.

    I forgot to mention that. Limed for TRUTH.

    Seriously, don't negotiate over the phone. Those are the guys that they pay to strong arm you. They are legalized mafia arm-breakers. Seriously, write your terms down and mail them to them.

    It's also highly illegal and, if you wrote a check and they took out anything more than the cleared check, they can be into a large amount of legal trouble. Like, enough that you never have to worry about debt again.

    bowen on
    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
  • badpoetbadpoet Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Also, just to be aware, in some states they can be put in jail for failure to show up to court dates or not following through on a court mandated payment plan regarding debt (not for the debt itself, simply for missing the court date or missing payments). So, if they do take you to court, make sure you show up.

    badpoet on
  • amateurhouramateurhour One day I'll be professionalhour The woods somewhere in TennesseeRegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    bowen wrote: »
    I think that I am just going to call and negotiate toward the end of the month,

    Okay...First, it would be a better idea to follow Reverend_Chase's advice and negotiate by mail, that is, in writing.

    Collection agents will not feel themselves bound to honor mere verbal agreements.

    Second, if you do negotiate payment for less than what you owe do not pay them with a personal check or via electronic transfer. Heck, don't do this no matter what you negotiate.

    Pay them with a cashiers check or money order. If you give them access to your account routing information, they will take every penny you owe, regardless of the payment agreement you've made with them.

    I forgot to mention that. Limed for TRUTH.

    Seriously, don't negotiate over the phone. Those are the guys that they pay to strong arm you. They are legalized mafia arm-breakers. Seriously, write your terms down and mail them to them.

    It's also highly illegal and, if you wrote a check and they took out anything more than the cleared check, they can be into a large amount of legal trouble. Like, enough that you never have to worry about debt again.

    It's actually not. It's shady as hell, but not illegal (yet, at least)

    You give them your bank account info, and they run through some big long winded fast spoken terms of service agreement over the phone and get you to say okay, while recording it obviously. They'll play ball as long as the money is there, but if they ever try to withdraw the amount they were allowed and it's not there, they can withdraw the entire amount, late fees, whatever they want really. It's all in the terms of service you were read over the phone. Gyms do this all the time.

    edit: To the OP: Is this the only debt you currently have against you, or is this just the one card that's gotten this far? Are there others trailing behind it?

    If this is the only card, just find out what you can pay them, and make that offer. They're going to be more likely to take whatever you offer if it's a one time payment. When you start offering them scheduled payments they stop caring, because you've already told them once you can't do that.

    amateurhour on
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  • Jason00Jason00 Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I think that I am just going to call and negotiate toward the end of the month,
    Pay them with a cashiers check or money order. If you give them access to your account routing information, they will take every penny you owe, regardless of the payment agreement you've made with them.

    I have heard this a lot from people, and I know that Clark Howard says this all the time, but I'm not sure it's true. When I first graduated from college, I worked as a trainer for a debt collection place (which was not the most reputable place in the world) and this was 100% not something that anyone was allowed to do/told to do. In fact, to make sure it didn't happen, supervisors had to get on the phone to confirm the amount and date of payment on every transaction.

    Also, most collection agencies do not actually buy the debt from the companies. They service a number of accounts and then once they hit a certain age with no payments -- say 6 to 9 months -- the company sends that account to another agency. That's why you can dispute with one company and another one will start calling you a few months later. If a company has purchased the debt, they become the first party collector, and they are way more hardcore than any third party agency. For example, third parties can only call you once per day but first party can call over and over again if they want.

    If you have a way to record the calls, call them again. If they lie to you/threaten you, then they have broken the law and you have the right to sue them. In fact, you can collect twice since you can sue the agency and the individual.

    Jason00 on
  • bowenbowen Sup? Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Ah, well, if someone was stupid enough to agree to let them do that, then yes, that's going to happen. But, most of the time it's applied to "this payment only" at least when dealing with reputable sources.

    bowen on
    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
  • AiouaAioua Ora Occidens Ora OptimaRegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I work in customer service for a bank, and collection companies absolutely will make withdrawals without your permission if they have your account info. I see it all the time.

    Aioua on
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  • Farout FoolioFarout Foolio Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Forgive me if this is naive, but how is that legal?

    Also, really solid advice in this thread. The 'communicate only in writing' one is especially helpful.

    Farout Foolio on
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  • bowenbowen Sup? Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    It's not. But if you agree to let them take out money whenever, there's not much you can do.

    bowen on
    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
  • dispatch.odispatch.o Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I think it's important to remember you're not breaking a law by owing someone money.

    dispatch.o on
  • DeebaserDeebaser on my way to work in a suit and a tie Ahhhh...come on fucking guyRegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Forgive me if this is naive, but how is that legal?

    Also, really solid advice in this thread. The 'communicate only in writing' one is especially helpful.

    Sometimes there's a wide gulf between what is illegal, and what you can get an ADA to give a shit about.

    Deebaser on
  • HighPoweredMutantHighPoweredMutant Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Thank you for all the replies it really means alot to me.

    To the person asking if this is my only debt, I have a student loan for about 3k, and one with about 400 left that I am about to pay off.

    So if I am correct, the plan is to dispute the debt in writing in order to buy more time, then figure out what lump sum I can pay in a month or two once things have settled down, then write a letter stating that this is what I can pay, but with an undertone that if they don't accept it I'm not sure that I will be able to pay at all?

    Will the fact that I called an inquired about the payment plans count as proof to them that i accept the debt, thus making the debt dispute plan impossible?

    Also thank you for the something awful forum post, seems like a gold mine.

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  • HighPoweredMutantHighPoweredMutant Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    mcdermott wrote: »
    I'm not going to add anything to what people have said about dealing with the collection agencies, but I do want to mention that this
    I also filled out and sent the forms so that taxes will stop being withheld from my checks in order to have greater liquidity now.

    is not a great idea. You are still going to owe taxes, but now that they're not getting withheld, you'll be paying a large chunk sometime next year. And unlike consumer debt which is just a civil case, not paying state and federal taxes can have nasty consequences. Unless you're really, really good at saving money to cover your taxes or you're absolutely, totally 100% sure you're going to get enough credits and rebates to not have to pay any taxes, I'd reconsider lowering your withholdings.

    On a side note, some people don't realize that there is a cutoff after which you are penalized for underwithholding. I believe it's $1000...so if your tax return says you owe over $1000, then you can just add the penalty right on top of that. I only know this because I ran into that this year (luckily it was offset by the homebuyer's credit, or we'd have been fucked...I had some taxable income that wasn't withheld on, and forgot about it). Simply being able to pay what you owe come tax time isn't good enough.

    So just use the IRS calculator (on their site somewhere) to make sure you won't put yourself in this situation.


    On the debt, plenty of good advice here. Negotiate, get it in writing, make sure it discharges the debt, and remember that they bought your debt cheap. They'll probably take the 60% when you can afford to pay it, if you offer it at that time, and subtly imply that if they don't take it at that time they may never see anything.

    I am going to make total maybe 22k-23k this year. I have already paid taxes thus far- almost into July. I am single. I really shouldnt have to worry about underwithholding right? And how the fuck can they add a penalty for under withholding if you pay your taxes at the end of the year. I am not interested in giving the government my money at no interest all year, especially when I am in such a low income bracket.

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  • Death of RatsDeath of Rats Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I make maybe 10k a year, and I am barely under the cut off for taxes. 22k-23k for a single person? That's actually very close to the "lower middle class" instead of "destitute".

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    No I don't.
  • KakodaimonosKakodaimonos Code fondler Helping the 1% get richerRegistered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Federal taxes are a pay as you go system. You'll be looking at anywhere from 3-5K in taxes on 22-32K. You can get a pretty good estimate using the tax tables if you know what your total taxable income is going to be for the year. If you don't pay during the year, the IRS will charge you interest on everything you underwithheld and possibly a penalty. You're still going to have FICA and SS withheld anyways. You can't opt out of those.

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  • HighPoweredMutantHighPoweredMutant Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Appreciate the advice, I did not know there were penalties, frickin ridiculous. Punish me if I don't pay but if Ihold on to my own money and then pay at the end of the year I don't see the problem. I am going to make sure before I go through with it, the forms probably won't go through with my employer without me following up some more.

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  • HighPoweredMutantHighPoweredMutant Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    Fair enough, it seems that the government could afford to keep things going by taking taxes from everyone and allowing the small minority of people like me who would rather take care of it themselves, without the penalties, but perhaps not. I appreciate your point.

    I see your edit now, how do you manually set your withholdings? It seems that you are saying you can adjust what they take out. I thought it was an all or nothing thing.

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  • jungleroomxjungleroomx It's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovels Registered User regular
    edited June 2010
    I'm having an issue with a collection company (Stafford Loans).

    I got on a "credit rehabilitation program" where I'd pay $100 a month for a certain amount of time. They agreed to contact me a month before to renegotiate the terms and get me on a regular payment plan. What they did instead was drop me from the program at the end of the term and only contacted me when the account was 30 days past due. By mail. 15 days after it was actually past due.

    I'm also having another problem with another creditor, but that's because every single person I talk to has been giving me different answers. I got in the Army and paid off a fuckton of debt, but both of my student loan companies are being highly damn unreasonable, and at this point its almost like I just can't work anything out with them.

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