GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I can't tell about that resolution, or a 980 Ti specifically, but I can tell you that at 1440p, my regular 980 (which is OC'ed) can barely push FFXIV at 60 frames in DirectX 11. It's not a particularly well optimized game, and it's pretty CPU bound. I actually back off the max settings slightly to maintain ~60 FPS in 8 and 24 man content, and it's not a huge back off, but my single 980 certainly can't push FFXIV at 1440p full max in large group environments at 60 frames.
I can run GTA V at that resolution with a much lower quality card. Unless FFXIV was optimised by morons, it'll be fine on a 980ti
You play GTA V at 3440 x 1440 with a much lower powered card than that?
It depends on your personal definition of "runs fine".
That's the main problem with all of these types of recommendations. It's easy with processor because it's hard to saturate a regular i5 and they don't cost that much, so it's the default recommendation. With video cards and resolution there's so many variables it depends on your goals and what you think of as running fine. I'm generally not satisfied if I can't set everything close to max and maintain above 45fps.
Cabezone on
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
I can run GTA V at that resolution with a much lower quality card. Unless FFXIV was optimised by morons, it'll be fine on a 980ti
You play GTA V at 3440 x 1440 with a much lower powered card than that?
1440P is 2,560 x 1,440. I think there's been some confusion regarding what resolution you were looking to drive, since it was only stated in the link you posted.
980ti is just on the cusp of reliably running 4K resolution (30-50 FPS, mostly higher settings), so it would stand to reason you'd be able to run a 5 year old title on mostly high settings at the desired 3440x1440, though it is a bit of an oddball resolution. I've heard 21:9 is a pretty sweet aspect ratio for gaming, however.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
So I'm looking into a new router and I'm currently thinking about getting this one.
I'd also be looking at upgrading my wireless card on my desktop. I'm not really in a spot to run a cable from the router across the house to it so wireless is the way to go for me. http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-pce-ac68-dual-band-802-11ac-fe-91046.htm. I'm curious what the point of having the dual band 1900mbps on the card is. It would be useful on the router so I can do the Steam Stream while my room mates play smash online. But I have no idea why I would want my desktop connected to AC and N at the same time. Is there a practical advantage I'm missing here?
In order to use AC you have to have an adapter that supports AC... Just getting a new router and using an existing N adapter won't get you the new speeds that 5ghz and AC provide.
I'm aware that I would need an AC wireless adapter for it to use the 5ghz band. I also have a Wii U (wireless N), and I like to stream from my desktop (currently wireless N) to Surface Pro 3 (wireless AC). I Run into a lot of network slowdown on my single band N wireless network when all these devices are used. I live with 3 other people who all use the wireless network heavily.
I can run GTA V at that resolution with a much lower quality card. Unless FFXIV was optimised by morons, it'll be fine on a 980ti
You play GTA V at 3440 x 1440 with a much lower powered card than that?
It depends on your personal definition of "runs fine".
That's the main problem with all of these types of recommendations. It's easy with processor because it's hard to saturate a regular i5 and they don't cost that much, so it's the default recommendation. With video cards and resolution there's so many variables it depends on your goals and what you think of as running fine. I'm generally not satisfied if I can't set everything close to max and maintain above 45fps.
I've seen Tube attempt to play Payday 2 on his Surface, to hilarious results, so his idea of "runs fine" might be skewed
Come home to find that Windows is now BSODing two seconds after getting to the desktop, like clockwork. It seems to be a hardware issue, since I'm getting a 0x124 code.
Come home to find that Windows is now BSODing two seconds after getting to the desktop, like clockwork. It seems to be a hardware issue, since I'm getting a 0x124 code.
ONE OF US
ONE OF US
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mojojoeoA block off the park, living the dream.Registered Userregular
budget 600-800
already have everything and a 780ti- just need mobo, processor and rams. Whats the best in that budget?
4970k?
Chief Wiggum: "Ladies, please. All our founding fathers, astronauts, and World Series heroes have been either drunk or on cocaine."
if you're going to overclock, sure. If you're not a 4790 sans k will be fine.
Since this is a rig you're probably going to have for a while I'd also look at getting a motherboard with a couple USB 3.1 ports. Not super useful/needed now but in a couple years when you at least have two ports without needing an addin card you'll appreciate it, and you have the budget for it.
My last build was just before USB 3.0 started to hit mainstream so I ran with 2.0 only for a long while before chucking a PCI-e x1 card in with a couple USB 3 ports. Would have been really nice to have had even just a couple on board.
Come home to find that Windows is now BSODing two seconds after getting to the desktop, like clockwork. It seems to be a hardware issue, since I'm getting a 0x124 code.
ONE OF US
ONE OF US
I'll try reseating the graphics cards, since after looking online I see that that's a common culprit.
It boots into and runs in Safe Mode just fine, though.
Failing that, I'll just reinstall Windows 7. I've been meaning to for some time now anyway; I was scrounging around for places to trim the fat on the SSD, and had the ingenious idea of deleting my entire .MSI installer folder. Of course, I didn't realize that apparently nowadays you need the original .MSI to actually uninstall something.
As a result, I've been unable to update .NET for like a year now. Windows Update tries to do it every time I shut down the PC, but it just fails the install and my PC eventually shuts itself off as normal.
In any case, all this will have to wait: my girlfriend gets back into town this afternoon. I've already taken tomorrow off of work.
Hm. You can't find a copy of the .NET msi file and add that back to your system?
I tried this a number of times. Apparently it has to be that specific version of the .MSI installer.
I thought I'd fixed it by finding an older .NET installer on like oldversion.com, but no dice. It looks like, even if I don't necessarily have to for this current BSOD problem, that a Windows reinstall is in my immediate future.
Yeah, I'll prolly end up just going back in in Safe Mode to make sure there's nothing critical that I wanna get off my current Windows install SSD -- and maybe put my game installs in a to-go box through Steam and put them on my external HDD -- and just reinstall Windows.
Thank gof that that's not an all-day project the way it used to be.
yea I mean with 8.x and 10 and almost everything being cloud based I can basically be back up an running in half an hour or so, except for some of the bigger software packages that need to download, photoshop/lightroom CC, Office, etc. And copying my Steam folder around. Last time I did a clean install of windows I think I had everything installed and up to date except moving the steam folder to the SSD in about an hour and a half.
The part of reinstalling windows that takes the majority of the time now is trying to relocate my windows key. Just like my car keys, I always think I've found a place I won't forget that I left it this time.
i actually keep the OEM install DVD on a shelf on my computer desk. I always install from USB but having the optical media there with the key on it within arms reach just seems....safe.
It's just weird, 'cause literally all I did when I first turned it on last night was update Flash Player and then try to watch a YouTube video.
Guess I'll also try going into Safe Mode and uninstalling Flash to see if it's not some weird fuckup with that.
You can take the dump file that was generated and use WinDBG to look at it and see what dll or exe was running when it crashed. I did that to figure out issues on my new work laptop the other day.
Incindium on
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
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Zen VulgarityWhat a lovely day for teaSecret British ThreadRegistered Userregular
I'm guessing if I want to sell off some old parts I should just look to ebay?
I'm guessing if I want to sell off some old parts I should just look to ebay?
I've had very good luck with craigslist -- but I assume its effectiveness varies wildly with your location. Here in Boston I've sold my old GTX 770, had a serious offer for the leavings of my old build (PSU + motherboard + H60 + case) before I sold it to a friend instead, and just got two offers for one of my GTX 970's.
But even back when I was leaving Miami, I was able to sell my full PC build for $800.
You'd think intuitively that people would be too wary of buying expensive PC stuff used -- and especially used off of craigslist -- but I would say most people aren't as serious/careful about their PCs as, say, the very skewed sample of people who post regularly in/follow this thread.
Alright, so the time has come for me to put together a gaming PC, something I have zero experience with
I'm looking to keep the budget around $1200 all told, including an OS, peripherals, and possibly a monitor (which would probably entail increasing the budget). I say possibly because if I can, I'd like to use a 40" Samsung LCD as my display, and do my gaming with wireless peripherals and/or an xbox controller while sitting on a sofa. Is this realistic, or should I be thinking about just buying a decent monitor and setting up a computer desk? (part of the reason I'd prefer the former is because setting up a computer desk/area might be harder, as space is kind of at a premium where I'm living)
I am also confused as to what motherboard model I should get. I'd like to keep costs down on this, and other, part(s) but at the same time I don't want to just get the cheapest one I can find. I'd like this rig to last me for the next few years, at least, in terms of being able to upgrade to a new GPU and generally run recent games at max settings, and also I'll probably want to try overclocking once I feel more familiar with everything.
To provide some more info, I'm looking to get an i5-4690K CPU and a 970 GPU, as from what I've read it sounds like these two are at the balance between price and capability (& how true is that?). A full list of components is under the spoiler (the tally comes to $1250 according to pcpartspicker)
Any recommendations are much appreciated (actually, thanks to everyone here for the helpful guides and information I've already read) partspicker link
You can link us to the PCPartsPicker page by hitting the little "Get a permalink" button and then we'd be able to mess with stuff directly and give you new lists to look at.
I'm just at work and I'm not going to type all those into PCPP individually, =P
Using the TV as your monitor should be fine. You'll want to have some sort of setup such that you can get a flat surface available (like a TV dinner tray) to place your keyboard/mouse on for those times when you need to do something unwieldy with a controller. Can't really comment on the specs, last time I built a new PC was 2011.
You've put yourself together a pretty good rig there. A couple of our kind of standard questions: are you planning on overclocking the CPU at some point? if not you can drop the 4690k to just a 4690 (sans k) and save a few dollars. If you do that you can also probably drop the motherboard down to say a Z87 chipset and again save yourself a few dollars.
I think you'll find most of us here would recommend the Samsung 850 Evo for the SSD. the Crucials aren't bad parts but the 850 Evo is the best SSD on the market. I personally would also get at least 500GB if you can swing it. 250GB is fine in a lot of cases but the extra headroom is always nice. I have 350GB used storage on my SSD now, because it's so bloody fast I actually want to store things on it!
You don't need a Zseries mobo at all if you're not overclocking. The K-Series CPU and Z-series mobos are just for overclocking. Get an H97 or something if you're staying stock.
Alright, so the time has come for me to put together a gaming PC, something I have zero experience with
I'm looking to keep the budget around $1200 all told, including an OS, peripherals, and possibly a monitor (which would probably entail increasing the budget). I say possibly because if I can, I'd like to use a 40" Samsung LCD as my display, and do my gaming with wireless peripherals and/or an xbox controller while sitting on a sofa. Is this realistic, or should I be thinking about just buying a decent monitor and setting up a computer desk? (part of the reason I'd prefer the former is because setting up a computer desk/area might be harder, as space is kind of at a premium where I'm living)
I am also confused as to what motherboard model I should get. I'd like to keep costs down on this, and other, part(s) but at the same time I don't want to just get the cheapest one I can find. I'd like this rig to last me for the next few years, at least, in terms of being able to upgrade to a new GPU and generally run recent games at max settings, and also I'll probably want to try overclocking once I feel more familiar with everything.
To provide some more info, I'm looking to get an i5-4690K CPU and a 970 GPU, as from what I've read it sounds like these two are at the balance between price and capability (& how true is that?). A full list of components is under the spoiler (the tally comes to $1250 according to pcpartspicker)
Any recommendations are much appreciated (actually, thanks to everyone here for the helpful guides and information I've already read)
i5-4690K
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB
Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX
Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower
SeaSonic 620W
Windows 8 (or 7?)
Logitech MK520 Wireless Keyboard
Logitech G602
I have a very similar setup including using the TV so I'll offer my input. I got a cheap bluetooth dongle so I can use my PS3 controller wirelessly but I also have this keyboard which isn't ideal for gaming but works when you are navigating your computer from the couch. When KBAM is necessary for gaming, I'll pull out some wired options.
You don't need the third-party cooler right away unless you want to overclock right away. I'm running that processor with stock cooler right now and an R9 280 and I'm really happy. Seems to run everything except the newest games on max and the 970 should be a solid improvement over my setup.
If you have a Windows 7 or 8 key, I would say re-use it and you can upgrade to 10 for free starting at the end of July.
The other thing I've done is actually put a monitor next to the TV so I can game while someone else wants to watch TV. If you are the only other person in the house, this is a non-issue but it's an easy setup and you just put your display settings to "clone".
I'll add to the chorus of getting the overclockable stuff if it's in the budget but you can hold off on actually doing so. You don't need the aftermarket till you want to overclock.
Posts
It depends on your personal definition of "runs fine".
That's the main problem with all of these types of recommendations. It's easy with processor because it's hard to saturate a regular i5 and they don't cost that much, so it's the default recommendation. With video cards and resolution there's so many variables it depends on your goals and what you think of as running fine. I'm generally not satisfied if I can't set everything close to max and maintain above 45fps.
1440P is 2,560 x 1,440. I think there's been some confusion regarding what resolution you were looking to drive, since it was only stated in the link you posted.
980ti is just on the cusp of reliably running 4K resolution (30-50 FPS, mostly higher settings), so it would stand to reason you'd be able to run a 5 year old title on mostly high settings at the desired 3440x1440, though it is a bit of an oddball resolution. I've heard 21:9 is a pretty sweet aspect ratio for gaming, however.
I'm aware that I would need an AC wireless adapter for it to use the 5ghz band. I also have a Wii U (wireless N), and I like to stream from my desktop (currently wireless N) to Surface Pro 3 (wireless AC). I Run into a lot of network slowdown on my single band N wireless network when all these devices are used. I live with 3 other people who all use the wireless network heavily.
I've seen Tube attempt to play Payday 2 on his Surface, to hilarious results, so his idea of "runs fine" might be skewed
Come home to find that Windows is now BSODing two seconds after getting to the desktop, like clockwork. It seems to be a hardware issue, since I'm getting a 0x124 code.
ONE OF US
ONE OF US
already have everything and a 780ti- just need mobo, processor and rams. Whats the best in that budget?
4970k?
Since this is a rig you're probably going to have for a while I'd also look at getting a motherboard with a couple USB 3.1 ports. Not super useful/needed now but in a couple years when you at least have two ports without needing an addin card you'll appreciate it, and you have the budget for it.
My last build was just before USB 3.0 started to hit mainstream so I ran with 2.0 only for a long while before chucking a PCI-e x1 card in with a couple USB 3 ports. Would have been really nice to have had even just a couple on board.
I'll try reseating the graphics cards, since after looking online I see that that's a common culprit.
It boots into and runs in Safe Mode just fine, though.
Failing that, I'll just reinstall Windows 7. I've been meaning to for some time now anyway; I was scrounging around for places to trim the fat on the SSD, and had the ingenious idea of deleting my entire .MSI installer folder. Of course, I didn't realize that apparently nowadays you need the original .MSI to actually uninstall something.
As a result, I've been unable to update .NET for like a year now. Windows Update tries to do it every time I shut down the PC, but it just fails the install and my PC eventually shuts itself off as normal.
In any case, all this will have to wait: my girlfriend gets back into town this afternoon. I've already taken tomorrow off of work.
For Priorities™.
I tried this a number of times. Apparently it has to be that specific version of the .MSI installer.
I thought I'd fixed it by finding an older .NET installer on like oldversion.com, but no dice. It looks like, even if I don't necessarily have to for this current BSOD problem, that a Windows reinstall is in my immediate future.
It's just weird, 'cause literally all I did when I first turned it on last night was update Flash Player and then try to watch a YouTube video.
Guess I'll also try going into Safe Mode and uninstalling Flash to see if it's not some weird fuckup with that.
This. Probably a bad driver loading, which it doesn't do in safe mode.
Literally the only change between when it was running fine yesterday morning and last night was turning it on in the evening and updating Flash.
EDIT: Is there a utility to basically 'check' my drivers for a bad egg?
EDIT: Okay, apparently there's a Windows Driver Verifier utility, so that should be a good start.
Thank gof that that's not an all-day project the way it used to be.
Yeah, I usually take the OEM sticker and put it on the side of my case somewhere.
You can take the dump file that was generated and use WinDBG to look at it and see what dll or exe was running when it crashed. I did that to figure out issues on my new work laptop the other day.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
I actually have two or three old video cards to sell of minor quality but I haven't tested
What would be a good way to test them without ripping everything out of my mini itx
I've had very good luck with craigslist -- but I assume its effectiveness varies wildly with your location. Here in Boston I've sold my old GTX 770, had a serious offer for the leavings of my old build (PSU + motherboard + H60 + case) before I sold it to a friend instead, and just got two offers for one of my GTX 970's.
But even back when I was leaving Miami, I was able to sell my full PC build for $800.
You'd think intuitively that people would be too wary of buying expensive PC stuff used -- and especially used off of craigslist -- but I would say most people aren't as serious/careful about their PCs as, say, the very skewed sample of people who post regularly in/follow this thread.
I'm looking to keep the budget around $1200 all told, including an OS, peripherals, and possibly a monitor (which would probably entail increasing the budget). I say possibly because if I can, I'd like to use a 40" Samsung LCD as my display, and do my gaming with wireless peripherals and/or an xbox controller while sitting on a sofa. Is this realistic, or should I be thinking about just buying a decent monitor and setting up a computer desk? (part of the reason I'd prefer the former is because setting up a computer desk/area might be harder, as space is kind of at a premium where I'm living)
I am also confused as to what motherboard model I should get. I'd like to keep costs down on this, and other, part(s) but at the same time I don't want to just get the cheapest one I can find. I'd like this rig to last me for the next few years, at least, in terms of being able to upgrade to a new GPU and generally run recent games at max settings, and also I'll probably want to try overclocking once I feel more familiar with everything.
To provide some more info, I'm looking to get an i5-4690K CPU and a 970 GPU, as from what I've read it sounds like these two are at the balance between price and capability (& how true is that?). A full list of components is under the spoiler (the tally comes to $1250 according to pcpartspicker)
Any recommendations are much appreciated (actually, thanks to everyone here for the helpful guides and information I've already read)
partspicker link
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX
G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB
Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX
Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower
SeaSonic 620W
Windows 8 (or 7?)
Logitech MK520 Wireless Keyboard
Logitech G602
I'm just at work and I'm not going to type all those into PCPP individually, =P
Everything else looks fine.
You could use your TV, sure. Just need an HDMI cable probably. Check monoprice for one if you need to.
E: though he editted, so maybe he added that later
I think you'll find most of us here would recommend the Samsung 850 Evo for the SSD. the Crucials aren't bad parts but the 850 Evo is the best SSD on the market. I personally would also get at least 500GB if you can swing it. 250GB is fine in a lot of cases but the extra headroom is always nice. I have 350GB used storage on my SSD now, because it's so bloody fast I actually want to store things on it!
But I assumed he was. And no reason not to, really. DO IT! :P
I have a very similar setup including using the TV so I'll offer my input. I got a cheap bluetooth dongle so I can use my PS3 controller wirelessly but I also have this keyboard which isn't ideal for gaming but works when you are navigating your computer from the couch. When KBAM is necessary for gaming, I'll pull out some wired options.
You don't need the third-party cooler right away unless you want to overclock right away. I'm running that processor with stock cooler right now and an R9 280 and I'm really happy. Seems to run everything except the newest games on max and the 970 should be a solid improvement over my setup.
If you have a Windows 7 or 8 key, I would say re-use it and you can upgrade to 10 for free starting at the end of July.
The other thing I've done is actually put a monitor next to the TV so I can game while someone else wants to watch TV. If you are the only other person in the house, this is a non-issue but it's an easy setup and you just put your display settings to "clone".
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman