Anyone got recommendations for a clear PLA? Doesn't have to be like glass, it's to diffuse light for my Arc Reactor print, need to be able to see the infill through it and not having any success printing in ABS.
Hatchbox apparently has a "Transparent White" but it's outta stock everywhere!
Is this the cover? Could you cut an acrylic sheet instead of a 3d print?
Radiation on
PSN: jfrofl
0
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
It's a couple internal bits, a shell to hold the LEDs in a specific pattern and then the visible panel that lights up. It's supposed to show an infill pattern through it, lil' hexagons and triangles to mimic the movie prop;
That flexplate can't arrive soon enough. This is after I had to whack it with a wrench to knock the pieces off the buildplate.
In other news, those extensions are 40mm tall, but I have my Ender 3 on vibration-dampening feet (that I printed, of course) making it a bit taller, so I knocked out a quick 60mm tall version.
Fillet on the side that hopefully matches the table legs, and a slight chamber on the bottom edges, both to prevent elephant foot and hopefully make it easier to get it off the buildplate.
It's a couple internal bits, a shell to hold the LEDs in a specific pattern and then the visible panel that lights up. It's supposed to show an infill pattern through it, lil' hexagons and triangles to mimic the movie prop;
Fun with rapid prototyping: making a jig so I can line up the holes I need to drill on the top of the table. First stab, looks like 2mm off. *adjusts and prints again*
+4
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
I should print new feet for my Ender, one of em came shorter than the others...
Hello 3D Printer Thread. I have been sent here to ask you noble people of which 3D printer would currently be a good unit for a beginner in the home.
For home hobbying the gold standard is pretty much a Prusa MK3. You can get it either as a kit you (mostly) assemble yourself, or a pre-built unit (more expensive).
You can get quite excellent stuff for nearly half the price though - I've had my Creality Ender 3 Pro for nine months now. It's definitely more of a tinker project though. By now I wouldn't be surprised if other brands have caught up with that quality for a similar price, this one in particular seems very promising.
No real issues printing PLA so far on the same machine. Temperature tower, bridging, and fan tests with PETG puts my best settings at 240 extrusion, 85 bed, 0 fan first 3 layers, 50% fan for others. First layer adhesion and extrusion are good. Simple solid objects like a calibration cube print reasonably well, with just some minor pimples at the line seams (likely caused by the oozing issue), and slight over-extrusion on the corners (jerk related i think), but otherwise all sides are straight and smooth with no sagging, curling, ringing, gaps, delamination, or other artifacts. But anything complex, multiple parts, or basically most travel moves over about 10mm, leaves stringing and towers of blobs coming off the walls at ~30 degree angles. Retraction tests have been done all the way from 1mm to 10mm. Improvement there plateaus around 4mm, with the amount of stringing the same from 4mm to 10mm. Even doing a feed and then manual 10mm retraction from the panel, the nozzle just sitting there will ooze about 60mm of string before it stops. Various coasting, wiping, z-hop settings were also tried on the retraction tests with no noticeable change in stringing amount, but I wasn't going to extremes. At best I can go down maybe another 5 degrees in temp, but 10 or more starts causing print artifacts and complete failures. I believe I've got my travel speeds bumped up to 175mm/s, but I don't know how much more it'll handle before getting layer shifting.
I did run across the Linear Advance functionality in Marlin that claims to virtually eliminate oozing. However, I have a CR10s Pro, which uses TMC2208 stepper drivers. Linear Advance causes that driver chip to crash and extrusion to stop for the rest of the print. And from what I can tell so far, they didn't bother to hook up the UART ports on the drivers to the processor, so I can't software enable the secondary driver mode that is claimed to work fine with LA. The driver is surface mounted to the motherboard with a big blob of glue over it to hold on the heatsink, so it also looks like I'm SOL on access for manually programming it or even replacing it with a different driver.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Hello 3D Printer Thread. I have been sent here to ask you noble people of which 3D printer would currently be a good unit for a beginner in the home.
For home hobbying the gold standard is pretty much a Prusa MK3. You can get it either as a kit you (mostly) assemble yourself, or a pre-built unit (more expensive).
You can get quite excellent stuff for nearly half the price though - I've had my Creality Ender 3 Pro for nine months now. It's definitely more of a tinker project though. By now I wouldn't be surprised if other brands have caught up with that quality for a similar price, this one in particular seems very promising.
Hm. I have a surge protector that has two screw hole mounts on it's back. I'd like to print an adapter real quick that would plug said holes and have like, a loop or something similar, so I can hang it off the underside of a wireframe shelf. Like a gender changer for cables, only for, er, screw mount to zip tie mount or something.
I have strings. Lots of them. They've actually been getting worse the more I use that filiment... maybe there's less "tug" on the roll to spin now? Not sure.
I also have the back right corner of my prints that are, er, peeling up a bit. Not sure about that... could it be a temperature thing? Or maybe I need to go after the glass build plate with some windex and rubbing alcohol? Or is that corner just a little bit too low?
I got a cheap heat gun I use to fry the strings if I get them.
0
mightyjongyoSour CrrmEast Bay, CaliforniaRegistered Userregular
You might also try messing with the z-hop retraction settings, I think increasing the z-hop a little bit helps? I haven't done an extended print since I changed mine though.
So I've always had a problem with bed adhesion with my ender 3, in that the level of adhesion was too strong and it's always been a bitch getting stuff OFF the bed.
Just had a 60mm warhammer base peel off part of the black printer bed coating when I took the base off.
Guess it's time to upgrade to that glass print bed.
So I've always had a problem with bed adhesion with my ender 3, in that the level of adhesion was too strong and it's always been a bitch getting stuff OFF the bed.
Just had a 60mm warhammer base peel off part of the black printer bed coating when I took the base off.
Guess it's time to upgrade to that glass print bed.
Wow. Yeah, I was having issues with the default bed, I think I left some gouges in it. The glass is so nice, but remember you shouldn't even need to get it to let go -- once the glass cools it literally stops being adhesive and the items just kinda... detach. It's so nice.
So I've always had a problem with bed adhesion with my ender 3, in that the level of adhesion was too strong and it's always been a bitch getting stuff OFF the bed.
Just had a 60mm warhammer base peel off part of the black printer bed coating when I took the base off.
Guess it's time to upgrade to that glass print bed.
Wow. Yeah, I was having issues with the default bed, I think I left some gouges in it. The glass is so nice, but remember you shouldn't even need to get it to let go -- once the glass cools it literally stops being adhesive and the items just kinda... detach. It's so nice.
Other than adjusting for the new bed height, are there any changes you need to make when swapping to a glass bed? I've been running Esun PLA+ with the bed temp at sixty degrees
Other than adjusting for the new bed height, are there any changes you need to make when swapping to a glass bed? I've been running Esun PLA+ with the bed temp at sixty degrees
Shouldn't be, the filament still needs to reach reach the same glass transition temperature.
I think I might just start screaming. I haven't had a successful print since I got my Z-stabilization installed. Last night I finally got things really nice and dialed in on the leveling then this happened on the second layer.
I know it's the 3d printer thread, but figured you guys might have an interest.
There's a contest to win a really great CNC (and it's a neat looking one as well). Its one of the ones I own and is easy to use out of the box.
I think I might just start screaming. I haven't had a successful print since I got my Z-stabilization installed. Last night I finally got things really nice and dialed in on the leveling then this happened on the second layer.
Mine was doing that. I creased the bed temperature by 5 degrees, and it stopped.
After getting my ender 3 to a point where it printed quite well, I was hesitant to fiddle with it. After the print bed tore when removing a print I figured I might as well upgrade to a glass bed.
I should have done this much sooner... the prints just pop right off!
20mm cubed. 20% gyroid infil. It's more translucent from the sides. I imagine a lower infill -- 10 or even 5% would make it more translucent. Maybe swap the pattern for something else. Concentric?
I figure this PLA + a blue wash from Games Workshop's Citadel paint line will work pretty good when I print an Asheron's Call Lifestone.
20mm cubed. 20% gyroid infil. It's more translucent from the sides. I imagine a lower infill -- 10 or even 5% would make it more translucent. Maybe swap the pattern for something else. Concentric?
I figure this PLA + a blue wash from Games Workshop's Citadel paint line will work pretty good when I print an Asheron's Call Lifestone.
It's labelled as a 3d printer bed, but it's really just a piece of glass cut to size for an ender 3 print bed. It was cheap and seems to work very well though, so I'm not complaining.
It's labelled as a 3d printer bed, but it's really just a piece of glass cut to size for an ender 3 print bed. It was cheap and seems to work very well though, so I'm not complaining.
It's labelled as a 3d printer bed, but it's really just a piece of glass cut to size for an ender 3 print bed. It was cheap and seems to work very well though, so I'm not complaining.
Posts
Is this the cover? Could you cut an acrylic sheet instead of a 3d print?
https://www.thepachstore.com/products/avengers-infinity-war-iron-man-ark-reactor-mark-l-50-marvel-licensed-1-1-movie-prop-replica
It's a pretty clever design, I just can't figure out how to print ABS. ;P
In other news, those extensions are 40mm tall, but I have my Ender 3 on vibration-dampening feet (that I printed, of course) making it a bit taller, so I knocked out a quick 60mm tall version.
Fillet on the side that hopefully matches the table legs, and a slight chamber on the bottom edges, both to prevent elephant foot and hopefully make it easier to get it off the buildplate.
Punished Props built that one.
I'm using these, did wonders for reducing vibration noice.
For home hobbying the gold standard is pretty much a Prusa MK3. You can get it either as a kit you (mostly) assemble yourself, or a pre-built unit (more expensive).
You can get quite excellent stuff for nearly half the price though - I've had my Creality Ender 3 Pro for nine months now. It's definitely more of a tinker project though. By now I wouldn't be surprised if other brands have caught up with that quality for a similar price, this one in particular seems very promising.
No real issues printing PLA so far on the same machine. Temperature tower, bridging, and fan tests with PETG puts my best settings at 240 extrusion, 85 bed, 0 fan first 3 layers, 50% fan for others. First layer adhesion and extrusion are good. Simple solid objects like a calibration cube print reasonably well, with just some minor pimples at the line seams (likely caused by the oozing issue), and slight over-extrusion on the corners (jerk related i think), but otherwise all sides are straight and smooth with no sagging, curling, ringing, gaps, delamination, or other artifacts. But anything complex, multiple parts, or basically most travel moves over about 10mm, leaves stringing and towers of blobs coming off the walls at ~30 degree angles. Retraction tests have been done all the way from 1mm to 10mm. Improvement there plateaus around 4mm, with the amount of stringing the same from 4mm to 10mm. Even doing a feed and then manual 10mm retraction from the panel, the nozzle just sitting there will ooze about 60mm of string before it stops. Various coasting, wiping, z-hop settings were also tried on the retraction tests with no noticeable change in stringing amount, but I wasn't going to extremes. At best I can go down maybe another 5 degrees in temp, but 10 or more starts causing print artifacts and complete failures. I believe I've got my travel speeds bumped up to 175mm/s, but I don't know how much more it'll handle before getting layer shifting.
I did run across the Linear Advance functionality in Marlin that claims to virtually eliminate oozing. However, I have a CR10s Pro, which uses TMC2208 stepper drivers. Linear Advance causes that driver chip to crash and extrusion to stop for the rest of the print. And from what I can tell so far, they didn't bother to hook up the UART ports on the drivers to the processor, so I can't software enable the secondary driver mode that is claimed to work fine with LA. The driver is surface mounted to the motherboard with a big blob of glue over it to hold on the heatsink, so it also looks like I'm SOL on access for manually programming it or even replacing it with a different driver.
I picked up a used prusa 3 @timspork's ghost
I trusted the buyer and he has been a pretty solid resource.
I know there have also been sales on ender 5
Steam ID: Good Life
Something like... this? Only with a loop for zip ties? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:652459 Anyone know the name of what I'm looking for?
Or maybe something like this, with the keyhole (apparently that's the name) adapter? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3814514
Hey, this one's nice, might use it if I ever have to redo my Carnivorous Plant grow rack: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:710921
Guess maybe I need to learn how to remix stuff. That last one swapped out for a keyhole adapter would be perfect, methinks.
I have strings. Lots of them. They've actually been getting worse the more I use that filiment... maybe there's less "tug" on the roll to spin now? Not sure.
I also have the back right corner of my prints that are, er, peeling up a bit. Not sure about that... could it be a temperature thing? Or maybe I need to go after the glass build plate with some windex and rubbing alcohol? Or is that corner just a little bit too low?
I got a cheap heat gun I use to fry the strings if I get them.
Just had a 60mm warhammer base peel off part of the black printer bed coating when I took the base off.
Guess it's time to upgrade to that glass print bed.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Wow. Yeah, I was having issues with the default bed, I think I left some gouges in it. The glass is so nice, but remember you shouldn't even need to get it to let go -- once the glass cools it literally stops being adhesive and the items just kinda... detach. It's so nice.
Other than adjusting for the new bed height, are there any changes you need to make when swapping to a glass bed? I've been running Esun PLA+ with the bed temp at sixty degrees
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Shouldn't be, the filament still needs to reach reach the same glass transition temperature.
Steam ID: Good Life
There's a contest to win a really great CNC (and it's a neat looking one as well). Its one of the ones I own and is easy to use out of the box.
Mine was doing that. I creased the bed temperature by 5 degrees, and it stopped.
So I decided to use the last bit of my orange filiment to make sure my printer is leveled right. 196mm x 196mm x 1mm.
But Cura 4.2.1 tosses a ring around anything I print, and said ring is clear off the edge, heh.
On the other, it's making it hard to tell if this stupid thing is leveled right.
On the other, it doesn't matter nearly as much, does it? :P
I should have done this much sooner... the prints just pop right off!
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
20mm cubed. 20% gyroid infil. It's more translucent from the sides. I imagine a lower infill -- 10 or even 5% would make it more translucent. Maybe swap the pattern for something else. Concentric?
I figure this PLA + a blue wash from Games Workshop's Citadel paint line will work pretty good when I print an Asheron's Call Lifestone.
But also, crap, another failed print.
Steam ID: Good Life
What kinda PLA is that @KiTA ya got a link? ;D
3D Soultech Natural Clear
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/
Steam ID: Good Life
Got it on amazon.
It's labelled as a 3d printer bed, but it's really just a piece of glass cut to size for an ender 3 print bed. It was cheap and seems to work very well though, so I'm not complaining.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
For an additional dollar or two you can get the official one with the fancy black stuff on top: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F16WPR5/
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
No idea. Supposedly helps with adhesion? I don't have to use any hairspray, for example.
I have that one, and it's not perfectly flat.