Anyone have ideas about how to get a face into fusion or another cad program?
My son wants to give his classmates an end of school gift and wants to change the face on the rocktopus into his own face.
Probably use something like Polycam with an iPhone that has the LIDAR stuff built in. Pretty sure it can export to an STL file, which you could stitch onto the model. You could also use a photogrammetry program and a bunch of headshots to do the same thing, but that needs some horsepower PC wise.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
And as far as resin goes, it's ideal for things that have lots of fine details, like miniatures or sculptural objects.
Just a game tray for a board game. Wanted to make sure I understood all the set up and cura stuff and flat object seemed like a good place to start. One of the lab techs helped me level it which feels like a mix of vibes and just getting used to noticing how the first passes are laying down.
Damn accurate description of bed leveling (or, really, bed tramming).
After several months of regular printing, I invested in an auto-bed leveling system. Way, way better.
Custom board game stuff is one of my favorite print categories - I’ve got a bunch of stuff for X wing and Armada, in addition to generic tubs, bits boxes, etc.
Edit: oh - best part of resin printing is that print time is 100% about print height, and not at all to do with footprint like FDM. So, like, it takes basically the same time to print 10 minis as it does to print one.
that was kinda my big question on the resin side, like should i just jam every mini i want to print that fit in the print space and it sounds like the answer is yes?
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
that was kinda my big question on the resin side, like should i just jam every mini i want to print that fit in the print space and it sounds like the answer is yes?
Yep. Every layer on a resin print takes the same amount of time no matter how much is printing, so it’s best to pack a plate full because 12 minis (of the same height) will print in the same time as 1 mini.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
follow up question and this is just me messing around with the software the lab uses at home, but pictured here is 3 versions of a file i have. the left is loading up the unsupported version and having the software generate the supports and messing around to see where it does/doesn't put them and how to add my own/change settings etc. the middle is the 32mm file with supports. the right does not have a size in the filename with supports.
so my questions atm are
1) it feels like the already presupported files being stood straight up is inefficient if print height is the main factor here?
2) IDK which one is the normal mini size? the 32mm or the bigger one?
Edit: ok I have realized that 32mm is the size I want for gaming. I guess the big version is like “I want a desk statue”
3) looking at the left one I'm playing around with, from the demo we got they seemed to prefer tilting prints to give them a larger base to connect to since I know it starts from the raft here. And my thought was going from the back would reduce any potential issues with marks from removing supports. Does that feel like the right way to go about it? is it better than the presupported files or am i giving myself extra work for little to no gain?
also this particular mini has a separate base file but i kinda feel like i can just fdm print the bases way easier?
initiatefailure on
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Yeah, you’re spot on. The ideal way to print minis is at an angle (anywhere from like 30 to 60 degrees), leaning back, so the supports all attach to the backside. It’ll create a better raft and any blemishes from supports will be on the rear. A LOT of presupported files are done really badly, to be honest. It’s more work, but with some practice you’ll be doing your own supports on a model in a matter of minutes and the results will be better.
And also, yes, I use my FDM printer for bases. It’s much faster, and with my textured plate they’re basically indistinguishable from a store bought one.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
My buddy bought one of the $400 Bambu's, not sure which one, and i am struggling not to do the same. The degree of just hit print and watch good looking prints take shape compared to my old Aquila is just so enticing. I just can't seem to get my printer setup where it will just print. Doesn't have to be perfect, but decent and reliable would be so nice, which is what the Bambu is offering. Just hard to justify the price for something i only use to make stupid little models and toys.
i've stumbled onto the fancy pants premium side of things and ran into a question. I've seen some models being shown like this:
a larger scale labeled for FDM and a smaller scale for the resin. and I'm kinda confused by them.
I didn't think FDM really did that kind of detail well?
also from the other pictures it's broken up into pieces that you'd assemble after, so wouldn't that still be a job you'd want to do in resin to look good since the piece separations would stop it from getting too heavy to print?
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
i've stumbled onto the fancy pants premium side of things and ran into a question. I've seen some models being shown like this:
Snip
a larger scale labeled for FDM and a smaller scale for the resin. and I'm kinda confused by them.
I didn't think FDM really did that kind of detail well?
also from the other pictures it's broken up into pieces that you'd assemble after, so wouldn't that still be a job you'd want to do in resin to look good since the piece separations would stop it from getting too heavy to print?
No, you’re right. FDM isn’t ideal for this. At the larger size and with an ultra fine setting like 0.05 layer height, it will look passable, but not great.
It’s more of a “here’s a halfway decent option if you don’t have a resin printer.” But yeah, if you do have a resin printer, that will 100% be the way to go.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
An FDM printer with a small layer height (or variable layer height) running a 0.2mm nozzle will get pretty nice details, but it still won't compare to a resin printer.
My guess for why the model is larger for fdm is because that is the only way you will get a comparable level of detail. They are just going ahead and showing you what size you will need to print at to get the same level as the resin.
Out of curiosity I tried that once. I think this was with a standard 0.4mm nozzle. Can't remember the layer height, but it might have been 0.04mm, which is the smallest step those stepper motors could do.
The rails on the gun are supposed to look like that, but on the arm you see the layer lines.
Out of curiosity I tried that once. I think this was with a standard 0.4mm nozzle. Can't remember the layer height, but it might have been 0.04mm, which is the smallest step those stepper motors could do.
The rails on the gun are supposed to look like that, but on the arm you see the layer lines.
That's still not that bad. Hit it with some filler primer and i bet the layer lines would be pretty hard to see. Of course, you lose other fine details at the same time so it is still a trade off.
A while ago I did the "how much detail can I get" tests as well; here's a lego minifig/skeleton hybrid, 0.25mm nozzle, 0.07mm layer height, Prusa MK3S. There's some stringing, but the details otherwise are pretty reasonable. _But_, looking at filenames on the SD card, this took 3 hours and 37 minutes to print, which is not super practical if you wanted to make a lot of them. (finger for scale)
Support material also tends to be a nightmare, figures can end up pretty much cocooned in it, rather than having nice pre-made supports like you get with a lot of resin models.
After messing around with my printer profile for hours and hours i finally got it dialed in pretty well i think. Did a 14 hour print yesterday and while i did get a bit of spaghetti at one of the overhangs the rest of the model finished fine and i already reprinted that part of the model to just glue in place. Still not perfect, but definitely good enough for what i need it for.
I got a Stream Deck XL recently, and I had An Idea.
Prototype fits nicely, now I'll make it look a bit fancier. This'll be a generic base plate to mount to the joystick mount, then I'll design something else to fit the Stream Deck on top of that.
my Kobra Max has broken in a way I don't know how to fix. It wont autolevel correctly anymore and the hot end itself is kaput. Changing the hot end didn't work, I believe it's a problem with the board itself. Out of warranty of course, but I contacted anycubic's customer service anyways as they've been pretty good albeit a bit slow in the past. They are sending me.... something lol they labelled it as 'accessories supplementary' so I guess I'll see what actually shows up. It's bizarre, they list those as $1 and are sending $18 worth.
Still it's a bummer, not only do I really like this printer but I just can't afford a new one; been eyeing the Bambu multicolor stuff but alas.
Why does printing TPU have to be such an exercise in frustration? I have everything needed, properly tensioned direct drive extruder, minimal filament path, etc. and it just fails 90% of the time. I think it’s my roll of filament, it seems like not only is it very tightly wound it appears to have some twist in the windings. It keeps pulling out of the hotend and then when I go check my print there is 5 meters of unspooled filament hanging out of the extruder.
Anyone used the Polymaker TPU? Is it any good?
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
And my print failed again, pretty much at the same place as before. It's not the file, its not the printer, its not the extruder, or the hotend, its the filament. That stuff is so tightly wound and requires a significant amount of tension to despool. Pretty sure the extruder gears slip at some point when the tension gets high enough and the filament diameter decreases (its TPU after all) and all of that built up tension releases and pulls the filament right out of the hotend, at least until the gears catch again. Then the gears start feeding it in a random direction, in a direction not down the feedtube to the hotend.
What a pain in the ass. I'm going to have to respool 200 meters of filament if I want to use this stuff. It's Novamaker TPU 95A in black. I would not recommend it to anyone.
Soggybiscuit on
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
Just for fun/curiosity I'm getting some quotes on having my stuff professionally printed or CNC'd.
From $9 for standard materials like PLA/PETG, and up.
If I ever need something that will take a real beating I might consider paying for having it printed in polycarbonate, or some laser-sintering process.
My last 3d printer was an ender 3 which I eventually gave up on as I got tired of having to spend hours every week fiddling with things to have my prints come out well, I just had a bambu a1 delivered and out of the box it's self calibrating has it printing perfectly, better than my ender ever did. If it kee9s this up my mind is officially blown and I will be a bambu convert for life. This feels genuinely game changing for hobbyist 3d printers
My last 3d printer was an ender 3 which I eventually gave up on as I got tired of having to spend hours every week fiddling with things to have my prints come out well, I just had a bambu a1 delivered and out of the box it's self calibrating has it printing perfectly, better than my ender ever did. If it kee9s this up my mind is officially blown and I will be a bambu convert for life. This feels genuinely game changing for hobbyist 3d printers
The bambu stuff, for its price point, is just nuts. I am saving up to buy one now. And they are all on sale for this entire month!
So somewhere in the course of printing something four times across three different lab printers I corrupted my base stl file.
I don’t really understand where it happened. Like I had to reslice it for each printer but that should have just been saving gcodes and not saving over the base file
Right now I'm only printing stuff small enough to fit on my Prusa Mini, but if I ever need something bigger I'm considering a Bambu Lab one.
How are they sound-wise? Seen some people say they can get loud.
The entry level A1 (not a1 mini) I have is loud but significantly quieter than my ender 3 v2 is. I'm not sure how that compares to the prusa mini though. I have it in my home office room and while I can hear it it's not loud enough to disturb meetings , or even really affect my tv watching. I've heard the higher end p1 and x1 are noiser though.
Slightly related I ordered the AMS combo and it's even flawlessly doing multicolor prints without any tinkering from me. I love this thing.
the mystery part that Anycubic sent me turned out to be a replacement cable for the hot end to main board cable. Which didnt fix the issue. It turns out one of the copper wires in the hot end itself was broken, just within the wire covering so I couldnt see the break. Found it out because I tried reseating it just in case and the wire came all the way out. So going to replace the hot end yet again. Which to me doesn't seem like it's going to fix the leveling issue which started this whole mess in the first place but who knows. Rather frustrating. It was working so great for a long time without this constant tinkering and now back to the same old bullshit.
Posts
My son wants to give his classmates an end of school gift and wants to change the face on the rocktopus into his own face.
Probably use something like Polycam with an iPhone that has the LIDAR stuff built in. Pretty sure it can export to an STL file, which you could stitch onto the model. You could also use a photogrammetry program and a bunch of headshots to do the same thing, but that needs some horsepower PC wise.
Just a game tray for a board game. Wanted to make sure I understood all the set up and cura stuff and flat object seemed like a good place to start. One of the lab techs helped me level it which feels like a mix of vibes and just getting used to noticing how the first passes are laying down.
After several months of regular printing, I invested in an auto-bed leveling system. Way, way better.
Custom board game stuff is one of my favorite print categories - I’ve got a bunch of stuff for X wing and Armada, in addition to generic tubs, bits boxes, etc.
Edit: oh - best part of resin printing is that print time is 100% about print height, and not at all to do with footprint like FDM. So, like, it takes basically the same time to print 10 minis as it does to print one.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Someday maybe
Yep. Every layer on a resin print takes the same amount of time no matter how much is printing, so it’s best to pack a plate full because 12 minis (of the same height) will print in the same time as 1 mini.
so my questions atm are
1) it feels like the already presupported files being stood straight up is inefficient if print height is the main factor here?
2) IDK which one is the normal mini size? the 32mm or the bigger one?
Edit: ok I have realized that 32mm is the size I want for gaming. I guess the big version is like “I want a desk statue”
3) looking at the left one I'm playing around with, from the demo we got they seemed to prefer tilting prints to give them a larger base to connect to since I know it starts from the raft here. And my thought was going from the back would reduce any potential issues with marks from removing supports. Does that feel like the right way to go about it? is it better than the presupported files or am i giving myself extra work for little to no gain?
also this particular mini has a separate base file but i kinda feel like i can just fdm print the bases way easier?
And also, yes, I use my FDM printer for bases. It’s much faster, and with my textured plate they’re basically indistinguishable from a store bought one.
PSN:Furlion
a larger scale labeled for FDM and a smaller scale for the resin. and I'm kinda confused by them.
I didn't think FDM really did that kind of detail well?
also from the other pictures it's broken up into pieces that you'd assemble after, so wouldn't that still be a job you'd want to do in resin to look good since the piece separations would stop it from getting too heavy to print?
No, you’re right. FDM isn’t ideal for this. At the larger size and with an ultra fine setting like 0.05 layer height, it will look passable, but not great.
It’s more of a “here’s a halfway decent option if you don’t have a resin printer.” But yeah, if you do have a resin printer, that will 100% be the way to go.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
PSN:Furlion
The rails on the gun are supposed to look like that, but on the arm you see the layer lines.
That's still not that bad. Hit it with some filler primer and i bet the layer lines would be pretty hard to see. Of course, you lose other fine details at the same time so it is still a trade off.
PSN:Furlion
Because sometimes you just want to know how a mechanical watch works.
Now I just need them in 5 more colors for game authenticity.
I was planning on painting the tops to let the runes shine through but even without painting this already looks quite nice
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
PSN:Furlion
Yeah I did another tray in blue with ironing on and I think it looks worse because it’s just not remotely consistent
Prototype fits nicely, now I'll make it look a bit fancier. This'll be a generic base plate to mount to the joystick mount, then I'll design something else to fit the Stream Deck on top of that.
Still it's a bummer, not only do I really like this printer but I just can't afford a new one; been eyeing the Bambu multicolor stuff but alas.
Now I gotta condition the spool and disassemble the infeed motor!
Tomorrow I'll google up how to place components on a sketch in Fusion 360 and start making the actual holder.
The lines with a 0.8mm nozzle are heckin' chonkers.
Anyone used the Polymaker TPU? Is it any good?
What a pain in the ass. I'm going to have to respool 200 meters of filament if I want to use this stuff. It's Novamaker TPU 95A in black. I would not recommend it to anyone.
From $9 for standard materials like PLA/PETG, and up.
If I ever need something that will take a real beating I might consider paying for having it printed in polycarbonate, or some laser-sintering process.
The bambu stuff, for its price point, is just nuts. I am saving up to buy one now. And they are all on sale for this entire month!
PSN:Furlion
I don’t really understand where it happened. Like I had to reslice it for each printer but that should have just been saving gcodes and not saving over the base file
How are they sound-wise? Seen some people say they can get loud.
The entry level A1 (not a1 mini) I have is loud but significantly quieter than my ender 3 v2 is. I'm not sure how that compares to the prusa mini though. I have it in my home office room and while I can hear it it's not loud enough to disturb meetings , or even really affect my tv watching. I've heard the higher end p1 and x1 are noiser though.
Slightly related I ordered the AMS combo and it's even flawlessly doing multicolor prints without any tinkering from me. I love this thing.