I had to remove my Bowden cable yesterday because of a clog in the hot end and the damn clamp wouldn't move. I bought a pack of 10 from Amazon because they get frozen in place so often and i have to break them to get them off. Very annoying.
the mystery part that Anycubic sent me turned out to be a replacement cable for the hot end to main board cable. Which didnt fix the issue. It turns out one of the copper wires in the hot end itself was broken, just within the wire covering so I couldnt see the break. Found it out because I tried reseating it just in case and the wire came all the way out. So going to replace the hot end yet again. Which to me doesn't seem like it's going to fix the leveling issue which started this whole mess in the first place but who knows. Rather frustrating. It was working so great for a long time without this constant tinkering and now back to the same old bullshit.
Does Anycubic not sell replacement thermistor or heater elements, depending on which one's wire broke, without replacing the entire hot end?
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
the mystery part that Anycubic sent me turned out to be a replacement cable for the hot end to main board cable. Which didnt fix the issue. It turns out one of the copper wires in the hot end itself was broken, just within the wire covering so I couldnt see the break. Found it out because I tried reseating it just in case and the wire came all the way out. So going to replace the hot end yet again. Which to me doesn't seem like it's going to fix the leveling issue which started this whole mess in the first place but who knows. Rather frustrating. It was working so great for a long time without this constant tinkering and now back to the same old bullshit.
Does Anycubic not sell replacement thermistor or heater elements, depending on which one's wire broke, without replacing the entire hot end?
They do, but the whole assembly isn't that much more yet way easier to install IMO.
New one arrived today, along with a surprise 2nd package as they also sent a replacement board for the cable to plug into, so switched that out too. And now I still can't print anything because like furlion I couldn't get the old fitting off the old bowden tube without breaking it and I didn't realize I was out of spares. So FML lol also ordered a 10 pack
the mystery part that Anycubic sent me turned out to be a replacement cable for the hot end to main board cable. Which didnt fix the issue. It turns out one of the copper wires in the hot end itself was broken, just within the wire covering so I couldnt see the break. Found it out because I tried reseating it just in case and the wire came all the way out. So going to replace the hot end yet again. Which to me doesn't seem like it's going to fix the leveling issue which started this whole mess in the first place but who knows. Rather frustrating. It was working so great for a long time without this constant tinkering and now back to the same old bullshit.
Does Anycubic not sell replacement thermistor or heater elements, depending on which one's wire broke, without replacing the entire hot end?
They do, but the whole assembly isn't that much more yet way easier to install IMO.
New one arrived today, along with a surprise 2nd package as they also sent a replacement board for the cable to plug into, so switched that out too. And now I still can't print anything because like furlion I couldn't get the old fitting off the old bowden tube without breaking it and I didn't realize I was out of spares. So FML lol also ordered a 10 pack
As much as that sucks i am very relieved it is not just me that is fucking them up somehow.
the mystery part that Anycubic sent me turned out to be a replacement cable for the hot end to main board cable. Which didnt fix the issue. It turns out one of the copper wires in the hot end itself was broken, just within the wire covering so I couldnt see the break. Found it out because I tried reseating it just in case and the wire came all the way out. So going to replace the hot end yet again. Which to me doesn't seem like it's going to fix the leveling issue which started this whole mess in the first place but who knows. Rather frustrating. It was working so great for a long time without this constant tinkering and now back to the same old bullshit.
Does Anycubic not sell replacement thermistor or heater elements, depending on which one's wire broke, without replacing the entire hot end?
They do, but the whole assembly isn't that much more yet way easier to install IMO.
New one arrived today, along with a surprise 2nd package as they also sent a replacement board for the cable to plug into, so switched that out too. And now I still can't print anything because like furlion I couldn't get the old fitting off the old bowden tube without breaking it and I didn't realize I was out of spares. So FML lol also ordered a 10 pack
As much as that sucks i am very relieved it is not just me that is fucking them up somehow.
I find they're only really good for one use. Even if the button releases it properly, it will permanently distort the teeth so it's unlikely to hold right the second time.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
So. Finally got all the new parts I needed, hooked everything up. Did a big cleaning of everything since it was mostly disassembled anyways. Hooked everything back up and it works! Wait... it works for a minute. Now it's clogging up like never before. Undid everything, it all looks fine. Hooked back up. Still clogging. Undid everything again, I still see no issue. When retracting the filament, it seems stuck in the bowden tube more than normal for a clog so maybe they sent a slightly too narrow one or something, so I change that (and in a small miracle I don't break the fitting in doing so). Still clogging. So I get down to eye level to watch the print head to see if I can see anything weird going on and I notice something: the hot end light isn't coming on. Then I notice the fans arent on either. Apparently when I replaced the board that the fans and light plug into, I switched some plugs because they are labelled very similarly (FO and TO, and my vision sucks) and of course they all fit in each other's socket, filthy things that they are. Fixed that and I'm back in business.
This is probably the most insane mod i have seen. Ender 3 upgraded with 5 belts and a combined stepper motor output of 1.4 horsepower. The video is crazy but the comments are hilarious.
I have ye olde Ender 3 sitting gathering dust, but I'm considering it pretty out of commission. Been looking at Bambu stuff, actually. How are they on noise for running in an apartment?
0
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I have ye olde Ender 3 sitting gathering dust, but I'm considering it pretty out of commission. Been looking at Bambu stuff, actually. How are they on noise for running in an apartment?
I have a P1S. Originally it was LOUD as fuck. After they added noise cancellation in a firmware update earlier this year it’s basically right on par with my Prusa Mini.
My buddies with X1C’s report similar decreases in noise on theirs.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
My Aquila is an Ender 3V2 clone and it is very fiddly. Every new print just about has to have something adjusted and even then it is not a guarantee to finish a print. Definitely going to get a Bambu as my next printer. Just no other printer is worth it at that price.
Yeah my recent Anycubic woes have me looking really hard at Bambu. the multicolor stuff is made for me as I hate painting. The moment there's room in the budget, one will be on its way. Unlike my Ender(also gathering dust), the anycubic would still be in use for large prints.
I got my Flashforge Adv 3 fixed, I kept trying to use it as an excuse to throw it away but the bastard keeps printing with only clogging issues due to old filament.
I can't be mad it keeps working very well, but I'm a little sour I can't buy a new bigger more expensive printer justifiably.
Hello. I'm completely new to 3D printing. I was gifted an Ender-3 VE SE printer for Christmas and also a Photon Mono 4K I decided to get for myself a year or two back, but haven't yet set up. I decided now's the time, especially as I need to do some 3D printing for a project I'm working on. I know there's a lot to learn for both of these, so I'm just going to start with the Ender since that's what I'll be using for my project. I've got two places I could set up the printer, either in the garage or in my hobby room. The garage is completely un-insulated and gets very warm in the summer and very cold (for a Californian) in the winter, but it's very dark which I think is good for the resin printer. My hobby room has a giant sliding glass door, and I haven't bought blinds for it yet, and so gets a lot of sun, but since it's inside it's got much better temperature control. I know that resin is pretty toxic, and we do have pets, but I can lock up the hobby room so no one gets in and then air it out pretty easily with a fan and opening the door. Big questions I have are:
For the Ender, is the filament sensitive to direct sunlight, temperature, or both?
For the AnyCubic, does that plastic cover block UV or do I need to build a separate opaque covering for it? Do I need to block out all diffuse light whatsoever? Would printing at night solve that problem?
If I do keep the resin printer inside, how long do those fumes stick around? Is it something I can air out in a reasonable amount of time (like an hour or so), or do those fumes coat ceilings and drapes and contaminate an area for a long time?
I've seen some set ups where people put insulation around their AnyCubic, so I assume resin is somewhat sensitive to temperature. Can anyone explain further?
Hello. I'm completely new to 3D printing. I was gifted an Ender-3 VE SE printer for Christmas and also a Photon Mono 4K I decided to get for myself a year or two back, but haven't yet set up. I decided now's the time, especially as I need to do some 3D printing for a project I'm working on. I know there's a lot to learn for both of these, so I'm just going to start with the Ender since that's what I'll be using for my project. I've got two places I could set up the printer, either in the garage or in my hobby room. The garage is completely un-insulated and gets very warm in the summer and very cold (for a Californian) in the winter, but it's very dark which I think is good for the resin printer. My hobby room has a giant sliding glass door, and I haven't bought blinds for it yet, and so gets a lot of sun, but since it's inside it's got much better temperature control. I know that resin is pretty toxic, and we do have pets, but I can lock up the hobby room so no one gets in and then air it out pretty easily with a fan and opening the door. Big questions I have are:
For the Ender, is the filament sensitive to direct sunlight, temperature, or both?
For the AnyCubic, does that plastic cover block UV or do I need to build a separate opaque covering for it? Do I need to block out all diffuse light whatsoever? Would printing at night solve that problem?
If I do keep the resin printer inside, how long do those fumes stick around? Is it something I can air out in a reasonable amount of time (like an hour or so), or do those fumes coat ceilings and drapes and contaminate an area for a long time?
I've seen some set ups where people put insulation around their AnyCubic, so I assume resin is somewhat sensitive to temperature. Can anyone explain further?
I can’t speak to the resin printer stuff, but filament is primarily sensitive to moisture and it is a common printing issue aside from general printer issues. It’s common to dry the filament for a few hours before printing esp. for stuff that is sensitive to moisture like nylon. Repeated exposure to high humidity can degrade filament. Many filaments also degrade in sunlight, so direct exposure should be avoided. Most filaments get dried well above the temps you might see in garage but I’m not sure about long term exposure. Cold shouldn’t do much more than make filament brittle until it warms up.
Steam - Synthetic Violence | XBOX Live - Cannonfuse | PSN - CastleBravo | Twitch - SoggybiscuitPA
PLA filament could be affected by the heat of direct sunlight. UV will degrade it eventually but most people will use it up before that's an issue. It is also quickly affected by moisture in the air. Best option is to just keep it in a sealed container with desiccant when not actively printing to avoid the issues. Printing needs an even ambient temperature for consistent prints so an uninsulated garage isn't a good place for it.
The case of the resin printer already blocks UV light, so no real need to do anything there. Resin gets too viscous below about 65F for printing to work. It tends to work better at warmer than normal house temperatures but it's certainly not necessary. Otherwise, temperature changes won't hurt it. If the printer is in the house you don't need to do anything extra to it like adding insulation. If you are trying to use the printer in the house with standard resins, I'd recommend getting a vent setup for it. VOCs don't stick around long but you won't like the smell for even short periods. You can use the low odor plant-based resins instead.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
I got so fed up with playing "what's broken now" with my Ender 3 that I also just ordered a Bambu.
Christ, me too. My Adv 3 seems to have really shit the bed. It's printing nonsense, like the bed feed servo is dying, can't order parts, have to fully tear the thing apart to get to it...
So a P1S is in the mail. I'll fix the Adv 3 and have an extra printer and that'll be awesome.
Anon the Felon on
+2
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
yessss, welcome all to the dark side
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I'm probably about to pull the trigger on the A1. My Kobra Neo is still humming along nicely but it's slow and I want to print toys for my kid in more than 1 color.
So yeah, Prusa has some catching up to do, methinks.
+2
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Anycubic appears to be making a valiant effort with their Kobra 3. It retails for $10 cheaper and their filament holder handles drying, otherwise it seems like they're going feature-for-feature. Pity their slicing software is dogshit. Sure you can just create profiles in existing software but I'm done with that shit.
I want to buy a functioning appliance, not the parts to build one. I'm done tinkering.
Manual bed leveling is such a pain and the "use a post-it note and adjust the Z offset" method is just awful. I eventually got feeler gauges which was so much better, but half the time still forgot to adjust the offset. Stopped having adhesion problems after that.
(Current issue is it won't extrude when printing, but will if I manually force it. Tried a few things and the next step would be replacing the entire hot end but something else would just break in a couple of weeks...).
Manual bed leveling is such a pain and the "use a post-it note and adjust the Z offset" method is just awful. I eventually got feeler gauges which was so much better, but half the time still forgot to adjust the offset. Stopped having adhesion problems after that.
(Current issue is it won't extrude when printing, but will if I manually force it. Tried a few things and the next step would be replacing the entire hot end but something else would just break in a couple of weeks...).
I am so glad nozzles are cheap because if one gets clogged and i can't fix it quickly i just toss it.
My P1S came in yesterday but didn't get to do anything with it until today.
1) Much louder than my Ender 3. I had considered moving it from my craft/PC room to my office but no way could I work with it in there. Craft room is fine.
2) The packaging was superb. Setup was a piece of cake - biggest hiccup was connecting bluetooth but that was me not realizing I had to confirm on the machine.
3) Print quality is noticeably better. The Benchy had a few areas where my Ender benchy's were better but that's certainly just some small slicer tweaks. The next piece of the bigger project I was working on when my Ender 3 started having problems is night and day better.
Just started a poop chute and going to try ludicrous mode on it.
UPDATE: Turned ludicrous mode off very quickly, but sport (124% print speed) is working really nicely for this. Shaved a good hour+ off the 9.5 hour print time.
Tomanta on
+3
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Welp, no sooner had I mentioned my Kobra Neo working well than it up and decided to fuck up. Z-axis is slipping while printing. It's done this before but the usual methods of making sure the wheel screws are tight aren't working.
Basically, if I send a command to raise it it works fine. If I raise it manually it works fine but while printing it either barely moves or doesn't move on layer changes. There's a loud click and it just smashes the next layer into the previous one.
Whatever. Bambu A1 combo is in the mail. If I can fix the Neo then bully for me but I'm not gonna sweat it. Super excited for this A1.
Welp, no sooner had I mentioned my Kobra Neo working well than it up and decided to fuck up. Z-axis is slipping while printing. It's done this before but the usual methods of making sure the wheel screws are tight aren't working.
Basically, if I send a command to raise it it works fine. If I raise it manually it works fine but while printing it either barely moves or doesn't move on layer changes. There's a loud click and it just smashes the next layer into the previous one.
Whatever. Bambu A1 combo is in the mail. If I can fix the Neo then bully for me but I'm not gonna sweat it. Super excited for this A1.
I don't know your motor and lead screw specs to tell you the exact number, but could your layer height be set less than the minimum step size the motors are capable of? That would lead to the motors failing to change position when commanded. The fact you can successfully do a continuous raise with the motors without issue would lead me to think the problem is not slippage of the clamps.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
I think i found it by accident that my stepper motors were limited to .04mm. Which is plenty tiny but it is not mentioned anywhere as far as i can tell.
Posts
PSN:Furlion
Does Anycubic not sell replacement thermistor or heater elements, depending on which one's wire broke, without replacing the entire hot end?
They do, but the whole assembly isn't that much more yet way easier to install IMO.
New one arrived today, along with a surprise 2nd package as they also sent a replacement board for the cable to plug into, so switched that out too. And now I still can't print anything because like furlion I couldn't get the old fitting off the old bowden tube without breaking it and I didn't realize I was out of spares. So FML lol also ordered a 10 pack
As much as that sucks i am very relieved it is not just me that is fucking them up somehow.
PSN:Furlion
I find they're only really good for one use. Even if the button releases it properly, it will permanently distort the teeth so it's unlikely to hold right the second time.
I feel it struggles to keep the bed at 85C when printing PETG, should help a little.
Strong drink is in my near future.
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/iIJlLoVgeY
PSN:Furlion
Time to get a Bambu.
Yes, that’s the excuse I used.
I have a P1S. Originally it was LOUD as fuck. After they added noise cancellation in a firmware update earlier this year it’s basically right on par with my Prusa Mini.
My buddies with X1C’s report similar decreases in noise on theirs.
Why no other manufacturer tried to do what they did is a damn mystery to me.
And yeah, I'm over my tinkering phase now.
At least two of the four Enders were down the entire quarter on a rotating basis
PSN:Furlion
I can't be mad it keeps working very well, but I'm a little sour I can't buy a new bigger more expensive printer justifiably.
I can’t speak to the resin printer stuff, but filament is primarily sensitive to moisture and it is a common printing issue aside from general printer issues. It’s common to dry the filament for a few hours before printing esp. for stuff that is sensitive to moisture like nylon. Repeated exposure to high humidity can degrade filament. Many filaments also degrade in sunlight, so direct exposure should be avoided. Most filaments get dried well above the temps you might see in garage but I’m not sure about long term exposure. Cold shouldn’t do much more than make filament brittle until it warms up.
The case of the resin printer already blocks UV light, so no real need to do anything there. Resin gets too viscous below about 65F for printing to work. It tends to work better at warmer than normal house temperatures but it's certainly not necessary. Otherwise, temperature changes won't hurt it. If the printer is in the house you don't need to do anything extra to it like adding insulation. If you are trying to use the printer in the house with standard resins, I'd recommend getting a vent setup for it. VOCs don't stick around long but you won't like the smell for even short periods. You can use the low odor plant-based resins instead.
Great results on the test Benchy.
Great results on a functional doodad I'll need for a thing.
It sure does a whole song and dance and twerk routine before starting the print.
Not as loud as I expected, but I wouldn't want to sleep in the same room.
Christ, me too. My Adv 3 seems to have really shit the bed. It's printing nonsense, like the bed feed servo is dying, can't order parts, have to fully tear the thing apart to get to it...
So a P1S is in the mail. I'll fix the Adv 3 and have an extra printer and that'll be awesome.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I want to buy a functioning appliance, not the parts to build one. I'm done tinkering.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
(Current issue is it won't extrude when printing, but will if I manually force it. Tried a few things and the next step would be replacing the entire hot end but something else would just break in a couple of weeks...).
I am so glad nozzles are cheap because if one gets clogged and i can't fix it quickly i just toss it.
PSN:Furlion
1) Much louder than my Ender 3. I had considered moving it from my craft/PC room to my office but no way could I work with it in there. Craft room is fine.
2) The packaging was superb. Setup was a piece of cake - biggest hiccup was connecting bluetooth but that was me not realizing I had to confirm on the machine.
3) Print quality is noticeably better. The Benchy had a few areas where my Ender benchy's were better but that's certainly just some small slicer tweaks. The next piece of the bigger project I was working on when my Ender 3 started having problems is night and day better.
Just started a poop chute and going to try ludicrous mode on it.
UPDATE: Turned ludicrous mode off very quickly, but sport (124% print speed) is working really nicely for this. Shaved a good hour+ off the 9.5 hour print time.
Basically, if I send a command to raise it it works fine. If I raise it manually it works fine but while printing it either barely moves or doesn't move on layer changes. There's a loud click and it just smashes the next layer into the previous one.
Whatever. Bambu A1 combo is in the mail. If I can fix the Neo then bully for me but I'm not gonna sweat it. Super excited for this A1.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I don't know your motor and lead screw specs to tell you the exact number, but could your layer height be set less than the minimum step size the motors are capable of? That would lead to the motors failing to change position when commanded. The fact you can successfully do a continuous raise with the motors without issue would lead me to think the problem is not slippage of the clamps.
PSN:Furlion