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Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail me now [Cars]

matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off'Points to 'on'Registered User regular
We're gathered here today to witness the marriage of rubber and road.

Something old.





Something new.





Something B....orrowed.





Something blew... your doors off.





You may now kiss the asphalt.

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CasualjungleroomxRobonunHavelock2.0mRahmaniJazzemp123The DeliveratordavidsdurionsMyDcmbrL Ron HowardzepherinShadowfire
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Posts

  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    And to start it off right it's a VW with an oil leak!

    lx5SzP9.jpg?1

    Big surprise. I can't complain too much, it's at 180k miles and besides regular maintenance and wear parts this is the first real problem I've had. Started putting into service position last night. The guide had half a paragraph about how to remove the charge air tube, which consisted of one easily accessible clamp and an 8mm bolt. The 6th step was "remove bumper cover." That was the whole description.

    Removing the front bumper cover involves taking off both tires, removing both fender linings, turn signals, fog lights, disconnecting some other electrics, the windshield washer tank, and a couple dozen screws and bolts. It's literally the most complex part of putting the car in service position. ""Remove bumper cover". Indeed.

    nibXTE7.png
    AridholCommunistCowjimb213emp123McFodderBullheadL Ron Howardchrishallett83BouwsT
  • AngelHedgieAngelHedgie regular Registered User regular
    And to start it off right it's a VW with an oil leak!

    lx5SzP9.jpg?1

    Big surprise. I can't complain too much, it's at 180k miles and besides regular maintenance and wear parts this is the first real problem I've had. Started putting into service position last night. The guide had half a paragraph about how to remove the charge air tube, which consisted of one easily accessible clamp and an 8mm bolt. The 6th step was "remove bumper cover." That was the whole description.

    Removing the front bumper cover involves taking off both tires, removing both fender linings, turn signals, fog lights, disconnecting some other electrics, the windshield washer tank, and a couple dozen screws and bolts. It's literally the most complex part of putting the car in service position. ""Remove bumper cover". Indeed.

    Welcome to the joys of German engineering.

    XBL: Nox Aeternum / PSN: NoxAeternum / NN:NoxAeternum / Steam: noxaeternum
    matt has a problemTOGSolidCommunistCow
  • CasualCasual Wiggle Wiggle Wiggle Flap Flap Flap Registered User regular
    Ahhh new thread smell!

    You get an awesome for the thread title alone.

    i write amazing erotic fiction

    its all about anthropomorphic dicks doing everyday things like buying shoes for their scrotum-feet
    Winky wrote: »
    Corgis are totally the white people of dogs
    Havelock2.0JazzNitsua
  • NinjeffNinjeff regular Registered User regular
    Its a shame the thread has depreciated so much. We barely got it out of the lot.

    AridholjungleroomxtinwhiskersCommunistCowJazzjimb213CasualThe DeliveratordavidsdurionsHedgethornBullheadL Ron HowardTNTrooperitalianranmaJoolanderNitsua
  • AridholAridhol Daddliest Catch Registered User regular
    I am changing the clutch in my 4runner as well as new sway bar end links, new hatch struts, new fuel filter (Fuck you Toyota), new shifter bushings.

    Next work is new EGR system since I can't find the specific problem, maybe new cat, clean throttle body & injectors.

    Probably $1000 all in with my own labour so not bad.

    I bought this car almost 8 years ago for $4000 and spending $300 a year on general maintenance and fixes (oil, filters, plugs, fluids).

    I figure I have another 250,000km out of it before I need a full engine rebuild or new refurbished engine.

  • SurfpossumSurfpossum A nonentity trying to preserve the anonymity he so richly deserves.Registered User regular
    So the other day I was informed that the ball joint on the front passenger side of my 2001 Outback needed to be replaced. I was informed of this by the ball popping out as I turned into my driveway, causing the wheel to orient itself rather unusually. After some examination, I discovered that during this Something had happened to the CV axle, as the wheel was able to spin freely after jacking up the car. I wasn't sure what the Something was, exactly, and so resolved to replace the axle as well as the ball joint.

    Aside from removing the axle nut, things went pretty smoothly. Against my own better judgment I picked up a breaker bar from Harbor Freight along with this ball joint remover doodad, and the axle nut did not budge until my friend (with much less concern for his own bodily integrity) decided to ignore how much the breaker bar was flexing.

    I was following this video for the replacing of the CV axle, and had a suspicion that the bit where he removes the pin from the axle was going to be a hassle when he just put before and after photos instead of actually showing the removal. Finagling a punch in at the right angle was nearly impossible, and I didn't even manage to punch it all the way through and just ended up yanking out the drive shaft or whatever, which I think had been partially yanked out when the ball joint went (and was probably the reason for the spinning wheel).

    We also concluded that the guy in the video must have superhuman strength, since in his ball joint replacement video he simply presses the control arm down with his thumb. We ended up installing the new ball joint on the driver side by having my friend place the breaker bar over the control arm and press down with both hands while bracing his shoulders against the wheel well while I maneuvered the joint into place.

    We didn't have to deal with the control arm so much when replacing the passenger side ball joint, since we removed the bolts on the... thing that helps hold the hub in place, not realizing that because the ball joint was already... well, not removed, but no longer applicable, we could skip to removing the axle. Being able to move the hub around made installing the new ball joint much easier, tho.

    Neither of us really had any idea what we were doing (I'm still guessing about much of the terminology I just used, have learned most of it over the last couple of days), but it all seems to have been reassembled correctly and hopefully the dealership will catch anything horribly wrong when I take it in for a wheel alignment.

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    is this how nations are born
    matt has a problemmRahmaniAridholemp123
  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    Heh. I got a Harbor Freight breaker bar to do the rear hub bearings on the VW a few years ago. 24", 1/2" drive. The axle nut is tightened to 150 ft. lbs., so no telling how tight it actually was. Had the same reservations about it but it worked like a champ. Must've been manufactured when the Chinesium factory was having a good day.

    nibXTE7.png
    Surfpossum
  • mRahmanimRahmani regular DetroitRegistered User regular
    Impact guns are basically a must for suspension work. Find one, use it, cherish it.

    CommunistCowAridholMyDcmbrjmcdonald
  • CommunistCowCommunistCow regular Registered User regular
    @Surfpossum If I remember correctly you can disconnect the sway bar from the control arm and then you don't have to kill yourself trying to push it down. Don't worry I've spent a fair amount of time doing the same exact thing.

    No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
    SurfpossummRahmani
  • SurfpossumSurfpossum A nonentity trying to preserve the anonymity he so richly deserves.Registered User regular
    Surfpossum If I remember correctly you can disconnect the sway bar from the control arm and then you don't have to kill yourself trying to push it down. Don't worry I've spent a fair amount of time doing the same exact thing.
    This definitely was one of the possibilities we identified, but I was reluctant to mess around with it without doing some research first and since this was our second ball joint we were Professional Experts and thus above doing more research.

    I can also now report that the car seems to be driving nicely, and the mysterious loud pinging noise that would occasionally happen when the suspension system was stressed seems to be gone for now.

    icon.png facebookIcon.png tumblrIcon.png
    is this how nations are born
    mRahmaniAresProphet
  • jimb213jimb213 regular Registered User regular
    And to start it off right it's a VW with an oil leak!

    lx5SzP9.jpg?1

    Big surprise. I can't complain too much, it's at 180k miles and besides regular maintenance and wear parts this is the first real problem I've had. Started putting into service position last night. The guide had half a paragraph about how to remove the charge air tube, which consisted of one easily accessible clamp and an 8mm bolt. The 6th step was "remove bumper cover." That was the whole description.

    Removing the front bumper cover involves taking off both tires, removing both fender linings, turn signals, fog lights, disconnecting some other electrics, the windshield washer tank, and a couple dozen screws and bolts. It's literally the most complex part of putting the car in service position. ""Remove bumper cover". Indeed.

    awww... you're making me miss my 2007 GTI...

    I've actually been casually shopping GTI's and Golf R's recently... I'm a little torn between looking for a used Autobahn GTI for 25k or a used R for 30k...

  • RiusRius regular Registered User regular
    Can this be a thread about car recommendations as well? My current ride is a 2008 Charger SE with 90k miles that's starting to show some rust; too much outdoor winter parking in the Midwest. Anyway, we got a Prius for my wife a couple years ago and I'm jealous about the mileage.

    I'd definitely want to stick with a large sedan. I rented a hybrid Fusion last month for a day while in DC for work and that seemed pretty nice. Doesn't necessarily have to be a hybrid, either? Anything better than 30-35 mpg would be great, I usually get ~21.

  • iguanacusiguanacus regular Desert PlanetRegistered User regular
    I'd check https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.shtml to narrow down what you're looking for then compare the epa numbers to what people are getting irl at http://www.fuelly.com/

    Quick glance tells me that the Accord Hybrid gets 35-45 mpg real world

  • mRahmanimRahmani regular DetroitRegistered User regular
    If you want a full size sedan that's more efficient than the Charger, the 2014+ Chevy Impala is a solid pick. I would definitely opt for the V6 over the 4 cylinder, which is still good for 18 city/30 highway compared to the Charger's 17/24.

    The LT and LTZ models are nicely equipped and should be a nice upgrade over the Charger. Avoid the base LS, though.

  • NinjeffNinjeff regular Registered User regular
    If driving dynamics are a thing you enjoy, there is no substitute for the Mazda 6. Good milage too.

  • JazzJazz irregular Un-UKRegistered User regular
    A Mazda anything is usually a safe bet.

    Ninjeffchrishallett83
  • jungleroomxjungleroomx And I said, hol up Registered User regular
    Can I say I think the 2017 Mazda 6 front-end was better than the 2018?

    Make. Time.
    Ninjeff
  • RiusRius regular Registered User regular
    Thanks all; I'm running some errands after work today and I'll be going right past CAR DEALERSHIP NEIGHBORHOOD, so I can stop at several of them in a row and check out some of your recommendations.

  • CormacCormac regular Registered User regular
    edited April 2018
    Welp, I brought my GTI in for the usual Spring oil change, Winter to Summer wheel swap, state inspection, and also to fix an exhaust leak. I also had the shop check an oil leak I noticed was leaving a small spot on my garage floor. Come to find out it's time for some major engine gasket and seal maintenance. It's a quadruple whammy of timing cover, rear main seal, cam bridge, and oil pan plus gasket. They'll also checking the timing chain for it's condition but without that they're estimating around $2400. Expensive but I also just got my tax return back and I can dip into my savings to cover the rest. Not ideal by any means but nearing 90k miles it's time for the expensive stuff to need attention. Fingers crossed the timing chain is fine because that's really not something I want to deal with right now.

    In my 4 years of ownership I've only had four things actually break on my GTI: intake manifold which was replaced as part of a recall, the windshield wiper fluid sensor, right front side marker, and both rear brake dust shields (rotted out...thanks NE US salt). Everything else has been scheduled maintenance and par the course for car ownership.

    I did at least appreciate the shop guys asking what tune it has because they found it surprisingly quick.

    Edit: looking through my maintenance records I actually had the upper and lower timing cover gaskets replaced in January 2017. Odd that they'd need replacing again unless the dealership didn't do a good enough job resealing them or it's a sign of other problems. So make that five/six repairs in my time of ownership.

    Cormac on
    Steam: Gridlynk | PSN: Gridlynk | Destiny: Gridlynk
  • CommunistCowCommunistCow regular Registered User regular
    edited April 2018
    With regards to your edit, it is possible the person/shop doesn't know what their talking about or they are lying. I would guess that is more likely than 2 gaskets needing to be replaced again the following year.

    CommunistCow on
    No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
    QuarterMasterNinjeffAridholchrishallett83
  • QuarterMasterQuarterMaster regular Registered User regular
    How do people here feel about extended warranties? I picked up a '16 Jeep Renegade recently and got the Mopar extended warranty with it, which will cover it for 7 years/100k miles (starting at the factory date, so until 2023 or 100k), with a $200 deductible. However I was a silly goose and didn't research them beforehand and significantly overpaid for it, $4k total on top of the vehicle loan. It's a solid warranty that covers just about everything except for glass and trim, but it seems like too much money even for that.

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
  • CormacCormac regular Registered User regular
    edited April 2018
    I edited it because I went back through my maintenance records because I had a gasket replaced last year but couldn't remember which one. If the timing cover gasket needs replacing again that really sucks because it cost me $1000 a year ago (the lower gasket may have been the expensive part). The top gasket needing to be replaced again hopefully isn't a sign of worse problems or maybe the VW dealership did a bad job of replacing it. I should stop by and talk to them before I go through with anything.

    Edit: doing some searching I think I might have found what the issue with my top timing cover may be

    Cormac on
    Steam: Gridlynk | PSN: Gridlynk | Destiny: Gridlynk
  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    How do people here feel about extended warranties? I picked up a '16 Jeep Renegade recently and got the Mopar extended warranty with it, which will cover it for 7 years/100k miles (starting at the factory date, so until 2023 or 100k), with a $200 deductible. However I was a silly goose and didn't research them beforehand and significantly overpaid for it, $4k total on top of the vehicle loan. It's a solid warranty that covers just about everything except for glass and trim, but it seems like too much money even for that.

    They're expensive, sure, until something happens and you need to use it. And considering FIAT/Chrysler's track record, it's a safe bet you'll need to use it. $4k isn't that much when it comes to repairing a modern car. Sure, 5 years from now you might have gotten a unicorn and be driving a Jeep that never needed work done on it. But probably not. Is it transferable if you sell the Jeep? Because that's a good selling perk too.

    nibXTE7.png
    webguy20
  • NinjeffNinjeff regular Registered User regular
    edited April 2018
    How do people here feel about extended warranties? I picked up a '16 Jeep Renegade recently and got the Mopar extended warranty with it, which will cover it for 7 years/100k miles (starting at the factory date, so until 2023 or 100k), with a $200 deductible. However I was a silly goose and didn't research them beforehand and significantly overpaid for it, $4k total on top of the vehicle loan. It's a solid warranty that covers just about everything except for glass and trim, but it seems like too much money even for that.

    They're expensive, sure, until something happens and you need to use it. And considering FIAT/Chrysler's track record, it's a safe bet you'll need to use it. $4k isn't that much when it comes to repairing a modern car. Sure, 5 years from now you might have gotten a unicorn and be driving a Jeep that never needed work done on it. But probably not. Is it transferable if you sell the Jeep? Because that's a good selling perk too.

    I second that.
    We picked one up on the missus ' 13 Mazda 3 (it was $1500) and it was worth it just for the few oddities we've used it with. And Mazdas are (usually for me) super reliable.
    With a Jeep i'd absolutely pick it up. I can almost 100% promise you'll need it.


    *the extended warrenty was 1500

    Ninjeff on
  • mRahmanimRahmani regular DetroitRegistered User regular
    How do people here feel about extended warranties? I picked up a '16 Jeep Renegade recently and got the Mopar extended warranty with it, which will cover it for 7 years/100k miles (starting at the factory date, so until 2023 or 100k), with a $200 deductible. However I was a silly goose and didn't research them beforehand and significantly overpaid for it, $4k total on top of the vehicle loan. It's a solid warranty that covers just about everything except for glass and trim, but it seems like too much money even for that.

    I don't think there's a right answer to this.

    On some cars, such as Doug DeMuro's infamous Range Rover, it makes perfect sense. You know that European cars are going to be expensive headaches to maintain, so paying a little more up front for peace of mind is worth it.

    Even on reliable cars - a Toyota Camry, let's say - it could be worth it at the right price. People in the market for appliance cars probably aren't familiar with what repairs should cost and what symptoms signal impending failures on their vehicles, so it can help them. And if you are on a really tight budget, I can see a circumstance where financing an extended warranty could be a safe move; even if the warranty doesn't directly pay for itself in repair costs, at least the owner knows they can depend on the car for the next 3 or whatever years without surprise repairs.

    I don't buy them, and I'll probably never buy one, but I do all my own work and have the ability to get parts at dealer price. Not everybody has that luxury. That said, they wouldn't offer them if they lost money on average - most people will pay more for the warranty than they would have by repairs.

  • NinjeffNinjeff regular Registered User regular
    We used the one on the Mazda for two software issues (I cant fix those at home) and an electric window that broke this winter.

    The window almost paid for the warranty itself. Illinois roads are destroyed and it was -10 outside and something in the door just broke and the window slid into the door. I suspect it was due to cold fatigue and harsh bumpy roads.
    I probably could have fixed it, but hell if i'm getting outside to fix a door/window in January when its 10 below zero. LOL.

  • mRahmanimRahmani regular DetroitRegistered User regular
    edited April 2018
    I'm going to tie this back into my "cost per mile" mindset, since I've talked about it recently.

    A $4000 extended warranty effectively means that you're paying for $4,000 worth of repairs up front. You don't know how much repair your car will actually need, but you're assuming it will be more than $4,000. If the goal is to have a cost per mile of $0.15 or lower, you're looking at:
    Purchase price + $4,000 warranty + post-warranty repairs - resale value
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                      Miles driven
    

    A little algebra and goofing off with the KBB/NADA vehicle value guide will let you work out how many miles you need to drive the car to make the warranty worthwhile.

    EDIT: forum space formatting sucks ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
    EDIT2: fixed, thanks @L Ron Howard

    mRahmani on
    QuarterMaster
  • L Ron HowardL Ron Howard regular Registered User regular
    Use the code function, mRahmani.
    like     this      yes
    

    mRahmani
  • QuarterMasterQuarterMaster regular Registered User regular
    Thanks all! I am leaning towards keeping it at this point just because I have heard that in general FCA vehicles tend to need maintenance, especially down the line and I would like to keep this car for a few years at least. Especially since I have a 5500 mile road trip coming up in a couple months, which is really going to push it. To answer your question @matt has a problem , yes it is transferable if I do want to sell it before the warranty is up so like you said that is another plus.

    The biggest caveat is that it requires keeping up with the official maintenance schedule, and I generally prefer to do my own basic work (oil changes, etc), so I'll have to talk to the dealership to make sure that there's a way for me to do that and not void the warranty.

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    As long as you stay on the official maintenance schedule and keep all your receipts, the dealer can't deny a warranty claim. Thank you, Manguson-Moss Warranty Act.

    nibXTE7.png
    QuarterMasterschussemp123
  • MyDcmbrMyDcmbr regular Registered User regular
    Thanks all! I am leaning towards keeping it at this point just because I have heard that in general FCA vehicles tend to need maintenance, especially down the line and I would like to keep this car for a few years at least. Especially since I have a 5500 mile road trip coming up in a couple months, which is really going to push it. To answer your question @matt has a problem , yes it is transferable if I do want to sell it before the warranty is up so like you said that is another plus.

    The biggest caveat is that it requires keeping up with the official maintenance schedule, and I generally prefer to do my own basic work (oil changes, etc), so I'll have to talk to the dealership to make sure that there's a way for me to do that and not void the warranty.

    So when I bought my 2016 Ram 1500 I passed on the extended warranty, and I am glad I did. About two weeks after I bought the truck I get a phone call from FCA about buying a lifetime warranty on the truck. $4k, 0% interest, I put $400 and pay $150ish a month for two years to pay it off. It covers everything except wear items (wiper blade, filters, pads) and the front shocks. But it is unlimited mileage and unlimited time and has a $100 deductible. The best part, if the cost of the repairs is more than the value of the truck, they just cut me a check for the truck's value.

    I don't think they offer it anymore though.

    Steam
    So we get stiff once in a while. So we have a little fun. What’s wrong with that? This is a free country, isn’t it? I can take my panda any place I want to. And if I wanna buy it a drink, that’s my business.
  • QuarterMasterQuarterMaster regular Registered User regular
    MyDcmbr wrote: »
    Thanks all! I am leaning towards keeping it at this point just because I have heard that in general FCA vehicles tend to need maintenance, especially down the line and I would like to keep this car for a few years at least. Especially since I have a 5500 mile road trip coming up in a couple months, which is really going to push it. To answer your question @matt has a problem , yes it is transferable if I do want to sell it before the warranty is up so like you said that is another plus.

    The biggest caveat is that it requires keeping up with the official maintenance schedule, and I generally prefer to do my own basic work (oil changes, etc), so I'll have to talk to the dealership to make sure that there's a way for me to do that and not void the warranty.

    So when I bought my 2016 Ram 1500 I passed on the extended warranty, and I am glad I did. About two weeks after I bought the truck I get a phone call from FCA about buying a lifetime warranty on the truck. $4k, 0% interest, I put $400 and pay $150ish a month for two years to pay it off. It covers everything except wear items (wiper blade, filters, pads) and the front shocks. But it is unlimited mileage and unlimited time and has a $100 deductible. The best part, if the cost of the repairs is more than the value of the truck, they just cut me a check for the truck's value.

    I don't think they offer it anymore though.

    Yeah this is basically the same thing that I have, except it's only good for 7 years or 100k miles from the manufacture date (and with a higher deductible). After I had already purchased it I looked around online and found I could get the same plan from other dealerships for half the cost, but unfortunately Mopar recently made a deal with all plan resellers to not offer a plan if one has already been purchased. :-1: I think the biggest caveat to their lifetime plans is that you can't transfer them? But if you're keeping the truck forever then it's not a big deal.

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
  • mRahmanimRahmani regular DetroitRegistered User regular
    Any company that sold me a lifetime warranty on a car would be very sorry

    MeeqeThe DeliveratorAridholmatt has a problemchrishallett83Derrick
  • tinwhiskerstinwhiskers regular Registered User regular
    edited April 2018
    So my coworker just bought a used 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee. He's a bit younger and is super excited because its first non beater car. And it seems nice, and has low miles, but in the back of my head theres the fact that reliability for Jeep(and really everything Fiat-Chrysler related) is awful.

    I'm having to act happy for him and enthusiastic and my inner monolog is just "Enjoy your time bomb"

    also saw this today:

    https://techcrunch.com/2018/04/25/ford-to-stop-selling-every-car-in-north-america-but-the-mustang-and-focus-active/
    Ford today announced it will phase out most cars it sells in North America. According to its latest financial release, the auto giant “will transition to two vehicles” — the Mustang and an unannounced vehicle, the Focus Active, being the only traditional cars it sells in the region. Ford sees 90 percent of its North America portfolio in trucks, utilities and commercial vehicles. Citing a reduction in consumer demand and product profitability, Ford is in turn not investing in the next generation of sedans. The Taurus is no more.

    Not all that surprising given the emissions standards roll back, but its just kind of bonkers.

    tinwhiskers on
    How do you spell Justice?B D S Non-Violent Resistance to Israel Apartheid & Occupation.
  • NinjeffNinjeff regular Registered User regular
    So my coworker just bought a used 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee. He's a bit younger and is super excited because its first non beater car. And it seems nice, and has low miles, but in the back of my head theres the fact that reliability for Jeep(and really everything Fiat-Chrysler related) is awful.

    I'm having to act happy for him and enthusiastic and my inner monolog is just "Enjoy your time bomb"

    also saw this today:

    https://techcrunch.com/2018/04/25/ford-to-stop-selling-every-car-in-north-america-but-the-mustang-and-focus-active/
    Ford today announced it will phase out most cars it sells in North America. According to its latest financial release, the auto giant “will transition to two vehicles” — the Mustang and an unannounced vehicle, the Focus Active, being the only traditional cars it sells in the region. Ford sees 90 percent of its North America portfolio in trucks, utilities and commercial vehicles. Citing a reduction in consumer demand and product profitability, Ford is in turn not investing in the next generation of sedans. The Taurus is no more.

    Not all that surprising given the emissions standards roll back, but its just kind of bonkers.

    Ive read this like 5 times and every single time I'm convinced that its an April Fools joke some one ran away with.

    I guess it isnt though.

    It does seem like a hilarious mistake i think. Or, at least, a short sighted one.

    Also, i hate crossovers.

    BullheadNova_CAimemp123
  • mRahmanimRahmani regular DetroitRegistered User regular
    FCA gets a bad rap, but they're not really "awful" - just worse than the average. And "worse than average" in 2018 is generally still better than a great car from 1995 or even 2005.

    My in-laws have two Chryslers, a 200,000 mile Ram and a 160,000 mile Grand Cherokee. Both have been solid vehicles - the Jeep's even still running the original air suspension.

  • MyDcmbrMyDcmbr regular Registered User regular
    MyDcmbr wrote: »
    Thanks all! I am leaning towards keeping it at this point just because I have heard that in general FCA vehicles tend to need maintenance, especially down the line and I would like to keep this car for a few years at least. Especially since I have a 5500 mile road trip coming up in a couple months, which is really going to push it. To answer your question @matt has a problem , yes it is transferable if I do want to sell it before the warranty is up so like you said that is another plus.

    The biggest caveat is that it requires keeping up with the official maintenance schedule, and I generally prefer to do my own basic work (oil changes, etc), so I'll have to talk to the dealership to make sure that there's a way for me to do that and not void the warranty.

    So when I bought my 2016 Ram 1500 I passed on the extended warranty, and I am glad I did. About two weeks after I bought the truck I get a phone call from FCA about buying a lifetime warranty on the truck. $4k, 0% interest, I put $400 and pay $150ish a month for two years to pay it off. It covers everything except wear items (wiper blade, filters, pads) and the front shocks. But it is unlimited mileage and unlimited time and has a $100 deductible. The best part, if the cost of the repairs is more than the value of the truck, they just cut me a check for the truck's value.

    I don't think they offer it anymore though.

    Yeah this is basically the same thing that I have, except it's only good for 7 years or 100k miles from the manufacture date (and with a higher deductible). After I had already purchased it I looked around online and found I could get the same plan from other dealerships for half the cost, but unfortunately Mopar recently made a deal with all plan resellers to not offer a plan if one has already been purchased. :-1: I think the biggest caveat to their lifetime plans is that you can't transfer them? But if you're keeping the truck forever then it's not a big deal.

    Yeah, I am pretty sure it is not transferrable, but I plan on driving this truck until they stop fixing it and cut me a check lol.

    Steam
    So we get stiff once in a while. So we have a little fun. What’s wrong with that? This is a free country, isn’t it? I can take my panda any place I want to. And if I wanna buy it a drink, that’s my business.
  • L Ron HowardL Ron Howard regular Registered User regular
    mRahmani wrote: »
    FCA gets a bad rap, but they're not really "awful" - just worse than the average. And "worse than average" in 2018 is generally still better than a great car from 1995 or even 2005.

    My in-laws have two Chryslers, a 200,000 mile Ram and a 160,000 mile Grand Cherokee. Both have been solid vehicles - the Jeep's even still running the original air suspension.

    I doubt a newer Jeep or other FCA is going to be more reliable than my 1997 Civic.
    I would be suuuuuper impressed if they lasted 20 years, regularly, by just going regular maintenance.

    chrishallett83
  • The Raging PlatypusThe Raging Platypus regular Registered User regular
    I wouldn't say it's a mistake, Ford's decision is risky but defendable. Fusion and Focus are selling half of what they were a few years ago, and they are forced to give substantial discounts just to compete with the Toyotas and Honda's of the world. But the sedan market really stinks right now for everyone, so I can see why Ford decided to cut bait and cede the field to the Japanese giants.

    Quid wrote: »
    YOU'RE A GOD DAMN PLATYPUS.
    PSN Name: MusingPlatypus
    Doodmann
  • NinjeffNinjeff regular Registered User regular
    As a Mazda fan boy, thats great news for Mazda

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