Uh, I'm just working with FFG Star Wars legion. I don't think it's resin? That's the Super expensive forge world shit right?
Not all resin is super expensive forge world stuff. GW used resin for a while for smaller stuff (their trade name was finecast). Other companies still use resin. GW is almost exclusively plastic now because their plastic molding is second to none. The plastic quality is also very high. GW can be accused of a lot of things, but not knowing how to cast incredible plastic is not on that list.
The Star Wars Legion stuff is plastic. It's not as good a plastic as GW's, bit softer, bit more oily. I would definitely wash it with soap and water before priming.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
So I want to paint my Grey Knight KT a very bright and probably obnoxious silver. I was going to use Stormhost Silver from GW but I'm not sure what color to prime with. I was thinking grey or whit might work.
Which would be better?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Purple
I primed my Grey Knights VSP gray and it was fine. Didn't mute the silver base at all. Though I used Leadbelcher as my base, not Stormhost.
I primed my Grey Knights VSP gray and it was fine. Didn't mute the silver base at all. Though I used Leadbelcher as my base, not Stormhost.
Would going Leadbelcher to Stormhost look better?
Maybe? Leadbelcher is darker, but if you based with Leadbelcher, slapped some Nuln Oil on them, and then did a heavy dry brush with stormhost silver, you'd probably get a richer color build up and still have a pretty bright silver.
Well I've started and finished my first project of the year, Aragorn and his ghosty bros.
painting ghosts is so easy and fun it feels like cheating.
Aragorn took more time than all 20 ghosts.
How did you do those ghosts? They look great!
Thanks! The full method is as follows:
Prime black
Zenithally spray light grey with airbrush
Spray from the top and to pick up raised areas with white.
At this point you will have a white ghost with darker grey and black in recesses.
Wash the mofo nihilakh oxide. Just go nuts.
To make it more interesting shade the recesses/folds in cloaks etc with red or purple or whatever floats your boat.
At this point the model had been significantly darkened and you're worried it doesn't look spooky enough.
Spray from the top with white, very gently, pick out raised surfaces.
Gently drybrush any detail thats still to dark with white. Geeeeently does it.
Alternative process that is way easier and does not use an airbrush and honestly still looks great:
Prime white
Wash nihilakh oxide.
Add other washes of your feeling fancy
Gentle drybrush model white.
Can also be used for holograms
Asher on
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Watching a tutorial on using tamiya clear paint for a metallic effect and it says to use a respirator. Should I use a full on respirator or will a mask over my nose and mouth work?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Watching a tutorial on using tamiya clear paint for a metallic effect and it says to use a respirator. Should I use a full on respirator or will a mask over my nose and mouth work?
Tamiya clears aren’t just regular bad-for-your-lungs acrylics, they’ve got some other weird shit in there. Be safe and wear a respirator when blowing that stuff in your vicinity.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I will go grab one tomorrow. It looks like they aren't that expensive so that is awesome.
Thank you for the advice. Definitely don't want my lungs up for a golden demon award.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Tamika clear has an almost gel like consistency compared to other paint. You do not want that in your lungs because I can’t imagine it ever coming out.
We ended up getting a respirator for our airbrush. Have a vent Hood thing to vent outside but internet expert opinions are highly mixed on the safety of a particle mask vs acrylic thinner or Vallejo primer. Funny how unclear it is.
What is this I don't even.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Purple
You always want something to catch the particulate paint and something to vent the fumes. Even a respirator won't help you much if you take it off in a room full of paint/solvent fumes.
@Norgoth is correct. Tamiya clears are basically tinted gloss varnish. You do not want that getting caught up in your sinuses. Trust me on this I have firsthand experience.
But without the extension hose. I also use a respirator. But now I'm wondering if I should be venting it out a window? Or if that's enough for my basic priming...Hmm.
Diagnosed with AML on 6/1/12. Read about it: www.effleukemia.com
For not getting my lungs full of paint, I use the same trick I use to not cry when peeling onions: Get someone else to do it.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Would doing the airbrush painting outside be a better/cheaper alternative? I'm gonna go buy a respirator mask today but I can't afford to buy much more.
I'm also kind of wondering if my airbrush is good enough or not.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
edited January 2019
Purple
WIP update for my UCM stuff. It's currently terrifying to think this is roughly 1/5th or 1/6th of everything I have, but technically I just have a ton of frigates which I would not build all of, so ... hurray for reduced scale? :P Anyway ...
I was slowed down a bit by not liking my initial choice for how I was going to do "exposed metals", so that lead me to some deep digging, reverse-engineering @Dr_Keenbean's reverse-engineering of Reaper<>GW paints, ordering my best guess, and then actually testing it out. So my recent work has really just been testing my new approach to see that it works. This photo doesn't really do it justice, but I'm stoked with the results~
I've been bogged down with indecision, having all my plastic spread from "still in box" all the way to "just needs highlights"... I sat down and decided to just catch everything up and started building it all. Once that's done I'll prime everything then I only need to pick what to paint.
Would doing the airbrush painting outside be a better/cheaper alternative? I'm gonna go buy a respirator mask today but I can't afford to buy much more.
I'm also kind of wondering if my airbrush is good enough or not.
My dude, I'm using a pocket compressor+gun I got for $30. What ever you're using is good enough. I got the spray booth JustTee mentioned for 50-60$ on ebay.
(I should upgrade my compress+airbrush but I need a job, which I don't care to get)
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
But without the extension hose. I also use a respirator. But now I'm wondering if I should be venting it out a window? Or if that's enough for my basic priming...Hmm.
I have the hose vent through a sock, into a trash bag loosely rubber banded around the hose end. Seems to work.
Trying to find a decent airbrush thinner on amazon, but a lot of products aren't listed specifically as thinners, and some search results are def not thinners. Almost pulled the trigger on one then found out it's super glossy.
What's everyone's favorite (available on prime in NA) airbrush thinner?
I used Vallejo airbrush thinner. Pretty great. The cleaner is really good too.
Mediums are just paint without pigment so it will still be thick, most likely.
I use vallejo airhbrush thinner as well. Though soon it will be the first time using it with GW paints. I've seen videos very successfully use airbrush thinner with GW paints and the paints used for Warmachine so I am pretty confident this wont be a nightmare.
Edit: Cross posting from the 40K thread because I am gonna start painting this soon.
Would it be easier to prime these grey or white and then do dry brushing to bring out the bones?
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Just to chime in on the respirator mask/dust mask thing. If you're using acrylics and water based products, anything with an N95 rating should keep you safe. A lot of people think that this is just a dust mask, but the n95 rating means that it'll pick up 95% of particulates at least .3 microns in diameter (the N means "not resistant to oil") A lot of youtubers treat acrylic paint like you need some full gasmask rig, but really anything n95 will do as long as they're water based products. When you get to anything oil you'd something higher end though.
(For context, am certified in everything from basic respirators up to SCBA respiration for emergency petrochemical spill rescue)
Just to chime in on the respirator mask/dust mask thing. If you're using acrylics and water based products, anything with an N95 rating should keep you safe. A lot of people think that this is just a dust mask, but the n95 rating means that it'll pick up 95% of particulates at least .3 microns in diameter. A lot of youtubers treat acrylic paint like you need some full gasmask rig, but really anything n95 will do as long as they're water based products. When you get to anything oil you'd something higher end though.
(For context, am certified in everything from basic respirators up to SCBA respiration for emergency petrochemical spill rescue)
The only paints I have right now are GW paints, some vallejo airbrush paints, vallejo primer, vallejo gloss primer, vallejo gloss varnish, tamiya clear coat, and tamiya panel line accent paint for pin washing and I think that one is enamel paint. At least that is what Google is telling me.
I'm also not airbrushing the tamiya panel line accent.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Purple
I'm trying to decide whether to paint my Reivers with yellow Imperial Fist armor, or try that cool looking black armor with yellow shoulder pads look for a more stealthy approach.
Posts
Not all resin is super expensive forge world stuff. GW used resin for a while for smaller stuff (their trade name was finecast). Other companies still use resin. GW is almost exclusively plastic now because their plastic molding is second to none. The plastic quality is also very high. GW can be accused of a lot of things, but not knowing how to cast incredible plastic is not on that list.
The Star Wars Legion stuff is plastic. It's not as good a plastic as GW's, bit softer, bit more oily. I would definitely wash it with soap and water before priming.
e: The Great Smurfening is complete!
Which would be better?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Would going Leadbelcher to Stormhost look better?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Maybe? Leadbelcher is darker, but if you based with Leadbelcher, slapped some Nuln Oil on them, and then did a heavy dry brush with stormhost silver, you'd probably get a richer color build up and still have a pretty bright silver.
That looks amazing.
Have you gotten a C&D from Troma yet?
painting ghosts is so easy and fun it feels like cheating.
Aragorn took more time than all 20 ghosts.
Oh man, I didn’t even think of him being the dang toxic avenger. Got another on the sprue, his hammer is getting replaced with a mop for sure.
How did you do those ghosts? They look great!
Thanks! The full method is as follows:
Prime black
Zenithally spray light grey with airbrush
Spray from the top and to pick up raised areas with white.
At this point you will have a white ghost with darker grey and black in recesses.
Wash the mofo nihilakh oxide. Just go nuts.
To make it more interesting shade the recesses/folds in cloaks etc with red or purple or whatever floats your boat.
At this point the model had been significantly darkened and you're worried it doesn't look spooky enough.
Spray from the top with white, very gently, pick out raised surfaces.
Gently drybrush any detail thats still to dark with white. Geeeeently does it.
Alternative process that is way easier and does not use an airbrush and honestly still looks great:
Prime white
Wash nihilakh oxide.
Add other washes of your feeling fancy
Gentle drybrush model white.
Can also be used for holograms
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Respirator.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Thank you for the advice. Definitely don't want my lungs up for a golden demon award.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
@Norgoth is correct. Tamiya clears are basically tinted gloss varnish. You do not want that getting caught up in your sinuses. Trust me on this I have firsthand experience.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
After i saw Gaslands in here last week i dove in.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I have this thing: Spray Booth
But without the extension hose. I also use a respirator. But now I'm wondering if I should be venting it out a window? Or if that's enough for my basic priming...Hmm.
I'm also kind of wondering if my airbrush is good enough or not.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Anyway ...
I was slowed down a bit by not liking my initial choice for how I was going to do "exposed metals", so that lead me to some deep digging, reverse-engineering @Dr_Keenbean's reverse-engineering of Reaper<>GW paints, ordering my best guess, and then actually testing it out. So my recent work has really just been testing my new approach to see that it works. This photo doesn't really do it justice, but I'm stoked with the results~
And the wider scope of progress~
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
It's working so far.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
My dude, I'm using a pocket compressor+gun I got for $30. What ever you're using is good enough. I got the spray booth JustTee mentioned for 50-60$ on ebay.
(I should upgrade my compress+airbrush but I need a job, which I don't care to get)
I have the hose vent through a sock, into a trash bag loosely rubber banded around the hose end. Seems to work.
I do not have expertise to justify why an answer is right, but after reading online a bit I guessed and bought this.
3M Dual Cartridge Respirator Assembly 3M 07193, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00079FOK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F7JsCbX3R4X7H
What's everyone's favorite (available on prime in NA) airbrush thinner?
Would this work well? Liquitex matte medium?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Mediums are just paint without pigment so it will still be thick, most likely.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I use vallejo airhbrush thinner as well. Though soon it will be the first time using it with GW paints. I've seen videos very successfully use airbrush thinner with GW paints and the paints used for Warmachine so I am pretty confident this wont be a nightmare.
Edit: Cross posting from the 40K thread because I am gonna start painting this soon.
Would it be easier to prime these grey or white and then do dry brushing to bring out the bones?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I can definitely do that. Thank you.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I just went to Lowe's and bought what was available in the woodworking isle. I think something like this. It was about $32~.
(For context, am certified in everything from basic respirators up to SCBA respiration for emergency petrochemical spill rescue)
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
The only paints I have right now are GW paints, some vallejo airbrush paints, vallejo primer, vallejo gloss primer, vallejo gloss varnish, tamiya clear coat, and tamiya panel line accent paint for pin washing and I think that one is enamel paint. At least that is what Google is telling me.
I'm also not airbrushing the tamiya panel line accent.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.