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Painting Thread a retrospective
Brainleech
機知に富んだコメントはここにありますRegistered User regular
機知に富んだコメントはここにありますRegistered User regular
Yes we all know the horror of unpainted minis piling up
Sometimes you take a break and your skills come back to you overtime
A farseer I painted a long time ago with one I painted earlier this week {I am not fond of mephiston red. I painted the newer one with a bottle of ruby red I found was still good}
YouTube is a vast repository of tips and techniques. Sometimes you find hints and tips in people doing models to bring a certain look you want to your army
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fXGHx3yZcU 0
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I’m gonna say, the best moulding/casting resource I ever found is the BITY channel on YouTube. Tons of well-produced videos about casting everything from foam knife props to life size mannequins.
They also happen to sell everything they use in their videos but I’ve never actually looked into that so I don’t know how competitive/readily available they are. Techniques are all gold though.
This one specifically is about miniatures:
And this is about a clear resin solution:
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I think we have to fight now.
This is the mantra for my Blood Angels colors.
But it’s not all bad news: Blue Stuff to the rescue!
Specifically I cast some press moulds in BS from the identical pair of parts on the same sprue (each makes two marauders) and moulded some epoxy putty around the busted bits using them.
I’m getting legit replacements from the store but this makes a good stopgap and I can use it as battlefield debris on a Titan later.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
For that bright red I wanted for the saim hann long ago mephiston is a deeper red than I want
I did not want to do the farseer's robes in it as ruby red had that pop I wanted just what I will paint the side of the robe is the question
I left a piece undisturbed for 30 minutes and it wasn't dry the touch at all, just a bit tackier. Apartment is quite dry but a bit cool, with AC off and on. Not sure what else could be doing it.
On my sprues the second Thunderbolt frame and part of the jet nozzles were miscast, so they didn't align properly. Had to do some cutting and apply some pressure to get it to fit properly.
some, yes. should i not be?
I've gotten lots of recommendations for this glue but it seems just awful — slower to cure, expands massively and needs to be cleaned when it does start to set, isn't stable after several hours...
On the upside, it hasn't given me the respiratory issues that superglue does
Because you have that tiny window of setting it up and it's together forever!
My brother likes the testor's non toxic one as it has a orange smell to it and it takes about 4 hours to set up
The weird thing is I found super glue will decay! as I left out [I had no way to store them} various things and now nearly 10 years later the glue rotted out
Things I had put away the glue still holds up
I'm gonna buy casting stuff online and do it another time.
I'm not sure how I want to paint my Necron HQs. I want to make them pretty distinct from each other.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Bronze, gold that kind of difference
I'm going for a 3 to 5 color thing right now with my Necrons. I'm doing a primer coat of gloss black and then depending on the color I'm doing either vallejo metallic gold or vallejo metallic aluminium. After that I'm doing orange, blue, and green on the Immortals and Warriors, red for the melee models and I was thinking yellow for the vehicles.
This is an example I did up when they did that contrast test stuff a week before they released contrast.
I used contrast colors over the silver and gold where I wanted the armor plates to have color. Then I used gloss nuln oil on the silver and gloss agrax on the gold.
For the named HQs I was thinking of doing their normal colors but with the metallic look.
So with my color scheme bronze and gold might not really help me with making my unnamed HQs look unique.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
[Edit]
Actually, home now. Google images to the rescue.
THIS is what I bought when I was in university and had heard the marvels of Gorilla Glue:
I wouldn't say it's white glue - something closer to a wood glue, probably. The bond was okay sometimes, so I could understand it from a home renovation standpoint, where you could clamp pieces together in some way.
I'm pretty sure THIS is the thing most people talk about when referring to Gorilla Glue:
I've got some yellow-capped variant that can be brushed or nozzled based on how you unscrew the cap, but AFAICT it's the exact same product. The stuff fucking reeks like nothing else, but the bond is well-and-truly the best I know. Not the most graceful compound from my experience (it's way more gel and the applicators are not precise), but I love it for core structure stuff.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I'll double down on this by saying I used some Gorilla Glue Gel Superglue just today, and it worked like a charm.
Regular ass Gorilla Glue is just a white Elmer's glue replacement, as far as I understand.
I'm using army painter stuff right now and I don't really like the nozzle/applicator
Thinking about finding some brush on glue to ease up over gluing... Glueing?.. gluing.. autocorrect is giving me nothing here.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Another caveat to this as well; there's also a green-topped variant gel, and it's even better at sticking stuff together.
now I'm just impressed by the models that did stay together
it does claim to hold metal but....
I just use Loctite which in itself I feel why it decays
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Edit: And if I go all in on a Blood Axes theme for my Orks I'd probably be doing red details for them too...
Speaking of bright colours, I airbrushed the base colour on my wood elf team. Finally finished (Vallejo white air always clogs everything up). I pack everything up. What's that, second thrower was hidden in a corner. Only eleven players painted. Facepalm.
They were used to help assemble large bomber formations.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I've forgotten: What are you casting, again?
Clear parts for his broken necrons to looks like they has phasing in or being put back together
Oh, yeah. That'll look cool! (Although, at that price, just buying new necrons might be cheaper…)
That seems wildly overpriced for what you're intending to do. How much resin and silicone are you looking at? And have you looked at Smooth-On's range of products? I've used them in the past, and had really good results.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
You cant use resin with it though. But the instant mold stuff is like 13$ and works with green stuff/clay. I went down your path of trying to figure out the cheapest way to get a resin molding system up and running for making a product, but that involved getting a vacuum chamber setup to stop bubbles and all that. It was around that price or more in the end, but that price in general seems a bit high for what you want to do.
edit: sounds like you specifically want clear/tinted parts, so this isnt really an option for you, sorry!
The amounts are about 2 pounds of clear resin and 2 pounds of silicone. It would be $36 cheaper but I want to tint the clear resin and they sell stuff for that so I bought that too.
I also want to do a bunch at once to make things quicker.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I needed to make a mold for a long-OOP figure for another miniatures game I have. I made a two piece mold, as such; note that I haven't cut gates on this mold yet, but I've used this method on other molds.
That two-part silicon mold weighs just over 5 ounces. Eyeballing it, a similar sized mold could probably get you enough arms and legs for 3-5 Necron Warriors. Also, it's a little over-large; I could have made it thinner, and saved some material.
I used this kit:
This kit has a net weight of 2.8 pounds, enough for around six or seven of a mold that size, eyeballing. Maybe more, if you're efficient and frugal, less as you experiment and figure out how to use it. That kit, from the manufacturer, costs $27.50 (excluding shipping).
If you're making parts in this manner, you'll also want mold release. One can should last you a while. $14.28
And for reference, I'm using this plastic resin. It's not what you need, but take it as a data/cost point. $27.78
Of course, you'll need a clear-casting resin and colorants.
If anything, I'd recommend starting small with the rubber kit; a little can go a long way. The resin you'll use and use and use, but unless you go crazy making molds you'll eventually run out of things to use the rubber for.