Club PA 2.0 has arrived! If you'd like to access some extra PA content and help support the forums, check it out at patreon.com/ClubPA
The image size limit has been raised to 1mb! Anything larger than that should be linked to. This is a HARD limit, please do not abuse it.
Our new Indie Games subforum is now open for business in G&T. Go and check it out, you might land a code for a free game. If you're developing an indie game and want to post about it, follow these directions. If you don't, he'll break your legs! Hahaha! Seriously though.
Our rules have been updated and given their own forum. Go and look at them! They are nice, and there may be new ones that you didn't know about! Hooray for rules! Hooray for The System! Hooray for Conforming!

Painting Thread a retrospective

BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにありますRegistered User regular
s1n0f3cge4wf.png
Yes we all know the horror of unpainted minis piling up
hcoq4cesq631.png
Sometimes you take a break and your skills come back to you overtime
9oceghvdi00o.png
A farseer I painted a long time ago with one I painted earlier this week {I am not fond of mephiston red. I painted the newer one with a bottle of ruby red I found was still good}

YouTube is a vast repository of tips and techniques. Sometimes you find hints and tips in people doing models to bring a certain look you want to your army

«13456

Posts

  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    This came up in the old thread:
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    What material should I use for a casting mold?

    What are you casting? Resin?

    Yea, I am gonna do clear resin.

    I’m gonna say, the best moulding/casting resource I ever found is the BITY channel on YouTube. Tons of well-produced videos about casting everything from foam knife props to life size mannequins.
    They also happen to sell everything they use in their videos but I’ve never actually looked into that so I don’t know how competitive/readily available they are. Techniques are all gold though.
    This one specifically is about miniatures:


    And this is about a clear resin solution:

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
    BrainleechDiannaoChong
  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks The Myth, the Legend, the Bowman, the Shambler FuckerRegistered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »
    I am not fond of mephiston red.

    I think we have to fight now.

    gRAhjXV.gif
    Khraul
  • KoregKoreg Registered User regular
    edited September 14
    I agree. Mephiston red is the perfect red to complement purples with.

    This is the mantra for my Blood Angels colors.

    Koreg on
    If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    In other news my Marauder Bomber B sprue was miscast(!):
    i7s7hr4q8u3t.jpeg
    4i3b1dy615m0.jpeg

    But it’s not all bad news: Blue Stuff to the rescue!
    elupwyrhs28u.jpeg
    Specifically I cast some press moulds in BS from the identical pair of parts on the same sprue (each makes two marauders) and moulded some epoxy putty around the busted bits using them.
    I’m getting legit replacements from the store but this makes a good stopgap and I can use it as battlefield debris on a Titan later.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
    BloodySlothNipsHermanoLord_AsmodeusElvenshaeElbasunu
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »
    I am not fond of mephiston red.

    I think we have to fight now.

    For that bright red I wanted for the saim hann long ago mephiston is a deeper red than I want
    I did not want to do the farseer's robes in it as ruby red had that pop I wanted just what I will paint the side of the robe is the question

  • Evil MultifariousEvil Multifarious Registered User regular
    I'm trying gorilla glue for the first time and having some issues with it just not curing enough to hold parts together, not even a small head inside a neck slot

    I left a piece undisturbed for 30 minutes and it wasn't dry the touch at all, just a bit tackier. Apartment is quite dry but a bit cool, with AC off and on. Not sure what else could be doing it.

    Inquisitor wrote: »
    I fucking hate you Canadians.
  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Krillin It Registered User regular
    Are you applying pressure when you first join the parts?

    04xkcuvaav19.png
  • Lord_AsmodeusLord_Asmodeus goeticSobriquet: Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered User regular
    Mr_Rose wrote: »
    In other news my Marauder Bomber B sprue was miscast(!):
    i7s7hr4q8u3t.jpeg
    4i3b1dy615m0.jpeg

    But it’s not all bad news: Blue Stuff to the rescue!
    elupwyrhs28u.jpeg
    Specifically I cast some press moulds in BS from the identical pair of parts on the same sprue (each makes two marauders) and moulded some epoxy putty around the busted bits using them.
    I’m getting legit replacements from the store but this makes a good stopgap and I can use it as battlefield debris on a Titan later.

    On my sprues the second Thunderbolt frame and part of the jet nozzles were miscast, so they didn't align properly. Had to do some cutting and apply some pressure to get it to fit properly.

    Lord_Asmodeus.gifLord_Asmodeus2.gifz1i30sg.png
  • Evil MultifariousEvil Multifarious Registered User regular
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    Are you applying pressure when you first join the parts?

    some, yes. should i not be?

    Inquisitor wrote: »
    I fucking hate you Canadians.
  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Krillin It Registered User regular
    I’ve always heard to push the two pieces together for at least thirty seconds

    04xkcuvaav19.png
    NipsArcticLancer
  • Evil MultifariousEvil Multifarious Registered User regular
    Hmm, I held it for about a minute then braced it steadily against a stable surface

    I've gotten lots of recommendations for this glue but it seems just awful — slower to cure, expands massively and needs to be cleaned when it does start to set, isn't stable after several hours...

    On the upside, it hasn't given me the respiratory issues that superglue does

    Inquisitor wrote: »
    I fucking hate you Canadians.
    Fuselage
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    When it comes to plastic glues I love the pro level German ones like the Revell Contacta professional
    bny30b58443s.png
    Because you have that tiny window of setting it up and it's together forever!
    My brother likes the testor's non toxic one as it has a orange smell to it and it takes about 4 hours to set up

    The weird thing is I found super glue will decay! as I left out [I had no way to store them} various things and now nearly 10 years later the glue rotted out
    Things I had put away the glue still holds up

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I think I'm going to abandon doing the casting molds on this 4 day weekend and focus on painting.

    I'm gonna buy casting stuff online and do it another time.

    I'm not sure how I want to paint my Necron HQs. I want to make them pretty distinct from each other.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Krillin It Registered User regular
    Getting into kitbashing and converting has killed plastic cement for me. Super glue bonds are just so much easier to break apart if I need to reposition something.

    04xkcuvaav19.png
    NipsBurnage
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    I think I'm going to abandon doing the casting molds on this 4 day weekend and focus on painting.

    I'm gonna buy casting stuff online and do it another time.

    I'm not sure how I want to paint my Necron HQs. I want to make them pretty distinct from each other.

    Bronze, gold that kind of difference

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I think I'm going to abandon doing the casting molds on this 4 day weekend and focus on painting.

    I'm gonna buy casting stuff online and do it another time.

    I'm not sure how I want to paint my Necron HQs. I want to make them pretty distinct from each other.

    Bronze, gold that kind of difference

    I'm going for a 3 to 5 color thing right now with my Necrons. I'm doing a primer coat of gloss black and then depending on the color I'm doing either vallejo metallic gold or vallejo metallic aluminium. After that I'm doing orange, blue, and green on the Immortals and Warriors, red for the melee models and I was thinking yellow for the vehicles.

    This is an example I did up when they did that contrast test stuff a week before they released contrast.

    I used contrast colors over the silver and gold where I wanted the armor plates to have color. Then I used gloss nuln oil on the silver and gloss agrax on the gold.

    uG63oQV.jpg

    For the named HQs I was thinking of doing their normal colors but with the metallic look.

    So with my color scheme bronze and gold might not really help me with making my unnamed HQs look unique.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    edited September 15
    Hmm, I held it for about a minute then braced it steadily against a stable surface

    I've gotten lots of recommendations for this glue but it seems just awful — slower to cure, expands massively and needs to be cleaned when it does start to set, isn't stable after several hours...

    On the upside, it hasn't given me the respiratory issues that superglue does
    I'm going to hazard a guess that you made a mistake that I made a decade ago. There are different types of gorilla glue. As best I can tell you, the superglue is really good, but regular gorilla glue is ... Very weird. Can you post a photo of the bottle?

    [Edit]
    Actually, home now. Google images to the rescue.
    THIS is what I bought when I was in university and had heard the marvels of Gorilla Glue:
    957985.jpg
    I wouldn't say it's white glue - something closer to a wood glue, probably. The bond was okay sometimes, so I could understand it from a home renovation standpoint, where you could clamp pieces together in some way.

    I'm pretty sure THIS is the thing most people talk about when referring to Gorilla Glue:
    450.jpg
    I've got some yellow-capped variant that can be brushed or nozzled based on how you unscrew the cap, but AFAICT it's the exact same product. The stuff fucking reeks like nothing else, but the bond is well-and-truly the best I know. Not the most graceful compound from my experience (it's way more gel and the applicators are not precise), but I love it for core structure stuff.

    ArcticLancer on
    NipsKhraulvalhalla130Evil MultifariousLord_AsmodeusKoreg
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Hmm, I held it for about a minute then braced it steadily against a stable surface

    I've gotten lots of recommendations for this glue but it seems just awful — slower to cure, expands massively and needs to be cleaned when it does start to set, isn't stable after several hours...

    On the upside, it hasn't given me the respiratory issues that superglue does
    I'm going to hazard a guess that you made a mistake that I made a decade ago. There are different types of gorilla glue. As best I can tell you, the superglue is really good, but regular gorilla glue is ... Very weird. Can you post a photo of the bottle?

    I'll double down on this by saying I used some Gorilla Glue Gel Superglue just today, and it worked like a charm.

    Regular ass Gorilla Glue is just a white Elmer's glue replacement, as far as I understand.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    ArcticLancerKhraul
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Since we're talking about glue, what's everyone's favorite plastic glue?

    I'm using army painter stuff right now and I don't really like the nozzle/applicator

    Thinking about finding some brush on glue to ease up over gluing... Glueing?.. gluing.. autocorrect is giving me nothing here.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • Lord_AsmodeusLord_Asmodeus goeticSobriquet: Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered User regular
    I, as a total amateur scrub, just use regular old super glue.

    Lord_Asmodeus.gifLord_Asmodeus2.gifz1i30sg.png
    DiannaoChong
  • BurnageBurnage irregular Registered User regular
    Hmm, I held it for about a minute then braced it steadily against a stable surface

    I've gotten lots of recommendations for this glue but it seems just awful — slower to cure, expands massively and needs to be cleaned when it does start to set, isn't stable after several hours...

    On the upside, it hasn't given me the respiratory issues that superglue does
    I'm going to hazard a guess that you made a mistake that I made a decade ago. There are different types of gorilla glue. As best I can tell you, the superglue is really good, but regular gorilla glue is ... Very weird. Can you post a photo of the bottle?

    [Edit]
    Actually, home now. Google images to the rescue.
    THIS is what I bought when I was in university and had heard the marvels of Gorilla Glue:
    https://i5.walmartimages.ca/images/Enlarge/957/985/957985.jpg
    I wouldn't say it's white glue - something closer to a wood glue, probably. The bond was okay sometimes, so I could understand it from a home renovation standpoint, where you could clamp pieces together in some way.

    I'm pretty sure THIS is the thing most people talk about when referring to Gorilla Glue:
    https://pics.drugstore.com/prodimg/435505/450.jpg
    I've got some yellow-capped variant that can be brushed or nozzled based on how you unscrew the cap, but AFAICT it's the exact same product. The stuff fucking reeks like nothing else, but the bond is well-and-truly the best I know. Not the most graceful compound from my experience (it's way more gel and the applicators are not precise), but I love it for core structure stuff.

    Another caveat to this as well; there's also a green-topped variant gel, and it's even better at sticking stuff together.

  • Evil MultifariousEvil Multifarious Registered User regular
    edited September 15
    y'all are totally right

    now I'm just impressed by the models that did stay together

    it does claim to hold metal but....

    Evil Multifarious on
    Inquisitor wrote: »
    I fucking hate you Canadians.
    ArcticLancerKhraul
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    As a side question I use double sided tape to prime my minis. but I was looking at getting one of the office tape dispenser, Since I can buy the rolls in bulk but I was also thinking about an airbrush as well.

    I just use Loctite which in itself I feel why it decays

  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    I use the same plastic glue as Brainleech, and whatever super glue they have at the store when I need it (scotch (supermarket) or loctite (hw store)). Cyanoacrylate is cyanoacrylate. I use whatever brand of white glue they sell at the hw store.

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    y'all are totally right

    now I'm just impressed by the models that did stay together

    it does claim to hold metal but....
    Exactly the same thing I thought back then. Honestly, I just put it out of mind for years and then only figured it out when I saw this stuff for sale at a Michael's. Unbelievably, the handful of models I got to stay together back then are still together now, so like ... yeah, it does work, but it's kind of impossible to realistically use when it has like a several-hour set time and expands, so ... Not recommended unless you wanted a [Hard Mode] for miniature assembly. ;P

    Evil Multifarious
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    Since we're talking about glue, what's everyone's favorite plastic glue?

    I'm using army painter stuff right now and I don't really like the nozzle/applicator

    Thinking about finding some brush on glue to ease up over gluing... Glueing?.. gluing.. autocorrect is giving me nothing here.
    Depends on the plastic. If it's something a more typical scale-model glue will actually work on, then I use Tamiya stuff because A+ applicators. If not, yeah, just more superglue.

  • Lord_AsmodeusLord_Asmodeus goeticSobriquet: Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered User regular
    edited September 15
    Hmm so, I'm trying to think of what paint schemes I want to use for my Aeronautica stuff, and I've run into a problem. for my Orks I was going to do a green camo pattern, but then later I was deciding what to do with my Imperials and I settled on a WW2 Japanese theme of green and red... but I don't know if I want both to be green? Or maybe I should just go with a more olive/drab green on the Imperial ones, and more vibrant greens with the Imperials? Or I could use a grey or lead belcher with red for the Imperials. Or possibly a blue-grey/blue-black with red?

    Edit: And if I go all in on a Blood Axes theme for my Orks I'd probably be doing red details for them too...

    Lord_Asmodeus on
    Lord_Asmodeus.gifLord_Asmodeus2.gifz1i30sg.png
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    My Pinterest folder for aeronautica is already much too big, too. For a moment I was even wondering if I should paint a marauder as an assembly ship.

    Speaking of bright colours, I airbrushed the base colour on my wood elf team. Finally finished (Vallejo white air always clogs everything up). I pack everything up. What's that, second thrower was hidden in a corner. Only eleven players painted. Facepalm.

  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    An assembly ship?

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    edited September 15
    Imagine the clown version of a ww2 bomber.

    They were used to help assemble large bomber formations.

    honovere on
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    So I'm gonna do the order from brick in the yard from that video where he casts that cowboy. Is $123 after shipping a good price for clear casting resin, silicone for the mold, and 4 different tint colors? I have to buy red and yellow so I can make orange.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    So I'm gonna do the order from brick in the yard from that video where he casts that cowboy. Is $123 after shipping a good price for clear casting resin, silicone for the mold, and 4 different tint colors? I have to buy red and yellow so I can make orange.

    I've forgotten: What are you casting, again?

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    So I'm gonna do the order from brick in the yard from that video where he casts that cowboy. Is $123 after shipping a good price for clear casting resin, silicone for the mold, and 4 different tint colors? I have to buy red and yellow so I can make orange.

    I've forgotten: What are you casting, again?

    Clear parts for his broken necrons to looks like they has phasing in or being put back together

  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    So I'm gonna do the order from brick in the yard from that video where he casts that cowboy. Is $123 after shipping a good price for clear casting resin, silicone for the mold, and 4 different tint colors? I have to buy red and yellow so I can make orange.

    I've forgotten: What are you casting, again?

    Clear parts for his broken necrons to looks like they has phasing in or being put back together

    Oh, yeah. That'll look cool! (Although, at that price, just buying new necrons might be cheaper…)

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
    ArcticLancer
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    So I'm gonna do the order from brick in the yard from that video where he casts that cowboy. Is $123 after shipping a good price for clear casting resin, silicone for the mold, and 4 different tint colors? I have to buy red and yellow so I can make orange.

    That seems wildly overpriced for what you're intending to do. How much resin and silicone are you looking at? And have you looked at Smooth-On's range of products? I've used them in the past, and had really good results.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    Khraul
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    Yeah, I recc’d their page for tutorials. They are a professional prop house and teaching studio and they carry the best stuff but you really don’t need that. I’d say start real small; pick up a pack of Blue Stuff for the moulds and a small pack of resin (I.E. clear two-part epoxy adhesive) to start with. Or some green stuff to practice with until you’re confident with the moulding process.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
    BrainleechNips
  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    edited September 15
    So there is this really good mold stuff called instant mold. You shove it in hot water and it becomes malleable, you put it around your object to mold it, then when it cools it stays hard(but a bit flexible). I use it to reproduce parts I've molded if I need an exact replica or other parts in general. Greenstuff does not bond to it so when you use it as an actual mold you can just shove green stuff in there and then trim when its set. For a low end solution this works great. It's all reuseable, just shove it back in hot water and its malleable again. I still have molds for old projects sitting around until I need to reuse the mold material.


    You cant use resin with it though. But the instant mold stuff is like 13$ and works with green stuff/clay. I went down your path of trying to figure out the cheapest way to get a resin molding system up and running for making a product, but that involved getting a vacuum chamber setup to stop bubbles and all that. It was around that price or more in the end, but that price in general seems a bit high for what you want to do.

    edit: sounds like you specifically want clear/tinted parts, so this isnt really an option for you, sorry!

    DiannaoChong on
    steam_sig.png
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I have about 28 broken Necron Warriors missing arms or parts of their legs so I don't need a massive amount but I want to make sure I have enough and if I have any extra I can work on some other side stuff I was considering.

    The amounts are about 2 pounds of clear resin and 2 pounds of silicone. It would be $36 cheaper but I want to tint the clear resin and they sell stuff for that so I bought that too.

    I also want to do a bunch at once to make things quicker.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    edited September 15
    Okay. Let me show what I've got and done, and you can use this as a point of reference.

    I needed to make a mold for a long-OOP figure for another miniatures game I have. I made a two piece mold, as such; note that I haven't cut gates on this mold yet, but I've used this method on other molds.
    QM26QdHh.jpg

    That two-part silicon mold weighs just over 5 ounces. Eyeballing it, a similar sized mold could probably get you enough arms and legs for 3-5 Necron Warriors. Also, it's a little over-large; I could have made it thinner, and saved some material.

    I used this kit:
    O4qlMAXh.jpg

    This kit has a net weight of 2.8 pounds, enough for around six or seven of a mold that size, eyeballing. Maybe more, if you're efficient and frugal, less as you experiment and figure out how to use it. That kit, from the manufacturer, costs $27.50 (excluding shipping).

    If you're making parts in this manner, you'll also want mold release. One can should last you a while. $14.28
    eEh1Eklh.jpg

    And for reference, I'm using this plastic resin. It's not what you need, but take it as a data/cost point. $27.78
    FOaeCqwh.jpg

    Of course, you'll need a clear-casting resin and colorants.

    If anything, I'd recommend starting small with the rubber kit; a little can go a long way. The resin you'll use and use and use, but unless you go crazy making molds you'll eventually run out of things to use the rubber for.

    Nips on
    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    BrainleechDiannaoChongElvenshae
  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against the Irish) Registered User regular
    "I feel like we're being narrated."

Sign In or Register to comment.