Best starter DSLR?

mooshoeporkmooshoepork Registered User regular
edited October 2008 in Help / Advice Forum
So! I want to take up photography as a hobby. I've always wanted to, but figured it was just a phase. I'm going to do it anyway though.

Where do I start? I figure I want to get a starter DSLR camera. A post I made in the photo thread suggested the Nikon D40 or the Canon EOS 400D.

What exactly should I be looking for? How many mega pixels/zoom and all that.

In terms of budget, I just want to see how much it will cost me. I don't really want to spend any more than $1000 AUS.

edit: Mad. There's a thread which is eerily similar to this one. It's pretty helpful, but more current suggestions are welcome :)

mooshoepork on

Posts

  • Q_PrimeQ_Prime Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    last i checked canon higher end lenses were more expensive than nikon, but nikon cheap lenses were more expensive than canon. that being said canon released a new low end slr.

    the canon rebel xs
    http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&sku_id=0665000FS10109189&catid=22553

    depending on your budget and how much you are willing to spend on lenses in the future. someone with a nikon should correct me if i'm wrong.

    i would recommend looking at lenses and reviews for the types of lenses you'd like to buy then compare prices. macro, telephoto or wide angle (landscape) type photos.

    i personally have a canon rebel xt and i like it, but i also considered a nikon when i bought my camera. i went with canon because two friends of mine also had canon slrs and my friend said i could try his lenses which was a bonus.

    Q_Prime on
  • Dark MoonDark Moon Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    First off, some basics of DSLR shopping: Bodies don't mean shit compared to lenses. A shitty lens on a Canon 1DsMkIII (~$8k) will produce significantly worse images relative to a high quality prime on a Canon XT ($300). A digital body will rarely stay with you for more than 5 years or so, while the lenses you buy now will very likely service you damn near forever. Look at the lenses you want now, any lens you may ever want, then get a body.

    A scenario to consider: Say you want to shoot really, really badly want to eventually be a birder, because you absolutely love staring at a 20g bag of feathers from 2km away for 5 goddamn hours until it finally turns around so you can capture three frames of it. To do this Seriously, you'll want a high MP count APS-C sensor body with fast AF and really long glass - minimum of 300mm, ideally with 400 and 500mm options and good 1.7x and 2x teleconverter options that let you keep AF. The former body can be found in Canon, Nikon, Sony and Fuji body lineups, but the latter lenses and associated gobbledegook are only found in their entirety and within a reasonable budget under Canon and Nikon. So, as I said, look at lenses first.

    You have two tiers of DSLR manufacturers: Canon/Nikon and Everybody Else (Pentax, Sony, Fuji, Other Guys). If you go with Canon or Nikon, it's rather difficult to lose. They have a pretty solid selection of bodies, a clear upgrade path if your future plans will require a high speed sports body or a full frame portrait body or anything in between, and a massive array of lenses. The only place you can miss with them is with their entry-level offerings, which I feel are lacking in certain respects relative to the alternatives available from other manufacturers.

    First up, the Nikon D40/D40x/D60. Do not buy. In a fit of poorly planned cost-cutting, Nikon did not include an in-body AF motor in these cameras, rendering them unable to focus with any but a select few, primarily zoom, AF-S lenses. All their AF line, including pretty much all of their prime lenses, will not autofocus on these bodies. Some fans of these bodies will suggest that you can just manually focus the incompatible lenses. They will then go on to tout all MF as superior to "AF or MF at your discretion." This is, of course, hogwash being spouted by folks trying to justify their own purchases of inferior goods. MF is great in some situations, but blows massive donkeys if you're interested in photographing moving subjects, which many people seem to be fond of. Of course if a D40 falls from the sky you can still take plenty of wonderful photographs with it - I'm just saying that, for the money, it's not ideal. If you want to go Nikon, get an old used D50 or D70 or spring for a new D80/D90 - go as high as your budget allows. Just be sure to leave ample room for lenses, as you'll ideally want to spend roughly equal amounts on the body and a starting set of lenses (kit zoom, 50mm fast prime, something wide or something long depending on what you're into).

    Canon has some pretty tasty beginner offerings at the moment. Their XT/XTi/XSi line is a great value for the money and should be seriously considered, especially if your budget only allows a D40 in the competing Nikon lineup. They have a vastly inferior flash system to Nikon, though, so if you're the strobist type give the D80 another look. My only qualm that stands true for both Canon and Nikon is that their beginner bodies feel like tiny toys made of plastic and glue. They're extremely light, made primarily of plastic and offer nothing in regards to weather sealing.

    Which brings me to my third brand, Pentax, or more specifically, their beginner offering in the form of the K200D. This camera is a K10D with one finger-wheel missing, and as I've been shooting with a K10D for about a year I feel fairly confident in touting some of its benefits over the competition (which I've also shot with). One word to describe this body: Solid. It's significantly heavier than the XSi and the D40 and fits my larger hands far better than either of the alternatives. It's got a stainless steel chassis and boasts full weather and dust sealing. I feel confident in saying that I could kill several men with this camera before I'd even begin to worry about its well being, and then only due to all the congealed blood on the front element of the mounted lens. It's also got in-body image stabilization and supports every lens Pentax made from the 1970s onward. Canon and Nikon both use in-lens stabilization, which is arguably better (~0.5-1 f-stop gain) but significantly more expensive as every lens you buy needs to have the IS mechanism built into it. Now, if you want to shoot sports you can go ahead and go back to Canon or Nikon, as Pentax lacks affordable long glass and isn't known for particularly fast AF speed or high FPS. If you want to do anything else, give the K200D a try. I do primarily landscapes and controlled portraits, and I couldn't be happier with my purchase. I have a huge selection of cheap, old glass that's wonderfully well built and offers image stabilization despite its age, and lots of high quality new stuff if I can spend a bit more.

    Sony has some decent offerings but a poorly fleshed out lens lineup as it stands. I'd keep an eye on them, but would give their lenses a good hard look (for both available focal lengths and their astronomical prices) before buying into their system.

    Fuji is great if you want a tiny DSLR like their E-420. The thing can almost fit in your pocket. However, everything costs a lot, they can't make super-wide-angle lenses for 4/3rd sensors like on the Fujis, and the tiny sensors have noise problems. I would never buy a non-E420 Fuji, but some people do, so I suppose they must offer some benefit I'm just not seeing.

    Before you buy a body, go to a camera store and try it out. Hold it in your hand, see how it feels. If you buy a body that you don't like the feel of, you'll be less likely to want to shoot with it, and that is Bad. A comfortable body is extremely important and should be one of your primary considerations behind available lenses and cost (assuming cost is an issue).

    Whatever you do, DPReview.com is a great resource for camera body reviews and Photozone is a great source for lens reviews.

    Edit: Canon and Nikon lenses are pretty similarly priced throughout their lineups. By the time you get to focal lengths and speeds where there's any appreciable difference, you're talking "You don't buy these lenses without being a working pro who can write it off" money.

    You should consider available lenses for borrowing, though. If you've got a buddy who happens to be a pro and shoots Canon, buy a bloody Canon and leech off his L-rich goodness!

    Dark Moon on
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  • burntheladleburntheladle Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Also, seriously consider getting a second hand body (or even lenses, although they're a bit harder to find). People often upgrade the bodies, and the old body is generally in pretty good nick. I manager to pick up a starter dslr (I'm using an Olympus e300) for $400AU second hand, in great condition and does pretty much everything I want (although I need to buy some more lenses for it, and they're pricey).

    My advice is to find a good independant camera store, or possibly a Ted's Camera store (they're generally pretty good, hire people with actual photography experience, etc.), and go an talk to them about what you want. They'll generally give you a chance to test the camera, make sure you're comfortable with it, and most devoted camera stores have some sort of second hand range.

    Avoid buying "starter lens kits" (a body packaged with 1 or 2 lenses) unless you know the lenses are good quality. A lot of the time these lenses will be bottom of the range, and as someone said above, you're much better going with good lenses + medicore body than the other way around.

    burntheladle on
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  • mooshoeporkmooshoepork Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Thanks a lot guys! I can see your replies must have taken a long time to type out, and I appreciate the help.

    I'll head over to Ted's and check out those cameras. I can see what you mean by the lenses being important.

    I'm not really sure what I want to shoot at the moment. Mostly just landscapes, maybe some moving things. Scenery mostly. So I'm not sure what kind of lenses I will need. I'll have a look via google of what lenses do what so I understand a little more.

    I know what macro lenses are for and the very basic ones, but as I said, not an expert.

    Thank you! :)

    edit: I seem to think I need a fast lens so I can use natural light. How fast should it be? I read below 1.8?

    mooshoepork on
  • CodeCode Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    a "fast" lens is good for low light settings where you can't add more light yourself, or where you want a really shallow depth of focus (where only a very small part of your image is sharp, and everything around it is blurry) usually for a very fast lens, you want a prime, which means it has no zoom. I have been very happy with my Canon 50mm 1.4, it takes amazingly crisp images.
    Natural light shooting though, depending on what you are shooting, you can compensate in a number of ways, one is by having a "fast" lens, like you mentioned, you can also increase your exposure, which is great for landscapes, and other non moving targets (but will cause moving things to be blurred, and usually requires a tripod) or by increasing the ISO (which will cause more grain in the final image) essentially, depending on what you are willing to sacrifice, there are a number of ways to achieve your goal.

    Code on
  • Q_PrimeQ_Prime Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    1.8 is good but on some lenses if you dont have a large budget you'll need to shoot at f8 just to get sharp pictures. i have a 50 prime 1.8 i use for everything... it's my sharpest lens... if you want a macro lens my friend got the 100mm macro and he loves it, if your budget is smaller the 60mm macro is nice... for landscape the lens you want is 10-22mm and for telephoto it'd be 24-105mm (these are all canon lenses) if you can't afford the 24-105, there is a cheaper 28-105 f3.6 - 4.5 lens that's really nice for the price.

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/

    that's a site where you can get sample pictures and review lenses for the different manufacturers

    Q_Prime on
  • Dark MoonDark Moon Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Thanks a lot guys! I can see your replies must have taken a long time to type out, and I appreciate the help.

    I'll head over to Ted's and check out those cameras. I can see what you mean by the lenses being important.

    I'm not really sure what I want to shoot at the moment. Mostly just landscapes, maybe some moving things. Scenery mostly. So I'm not sure what kind of lenses I will need. I'll have a look via google of what lenses do what so I understand a little more.

    I know what macro lenses are for and the very basic ones, but as I said, not an expert.

    Thank you! :)

    edit: I seem to think I need a fast lens so I can use natural light. How fast should it be? I read below 1.8?

    For landscapes, your shutter speed doesn't really matter all that much as you'll be shooting everything from a tripod and nothing will be moving all that much. You also tend to shoot landscapes stopped way down (f/16-f/22) for the increased depth of field this gives you. In short, you don't need a fast lens to shoot landscapes. You might consider just getting the kit lens (18-55mm f/3.5-55 in most case) with your body and seeing which end you find yourself at - if you're always shooting at 18mm and wanting wider, look into a super-wide angle (Sigma 10-20mm or Pentax 12-24mm for Pentax, Canon 10-22mm if you do Canon, Nikon 12-24mm if you do Nikon). Alternately, if you find yourself wanting longer, pick up something longer (50-200mm zooms are very cheap, if slow).

    Oh, and you won't need to stop down to f/8 with cheaper lenses to get sharp images. Granted, they won't be amazingly sharp wide open, but nothing unusable will be produced if you shoot a kit lens wide open. A lot of this can be handled with clever sharpening in PP anyways.

    Dark Moon on
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  • mooshoeporkmooshoepork Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Cheers guys. It seems Canon is the way to go because of the versatility of the lenses as you mentioned. Most of these lenses are as expensive as the camera! I'm scouting a couple of used bodies on ebay. Some even have different lenses packaged too. I assume they build quality is good enough for me to buy second hand, so that should be alright :)

    Cheers guys, anymore suggestions are welcome :)

    mooshoepork on
  • Dark_SideDark_Side Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Dark Moon is no fan of the D40, but as a D40 user I feel it's worthwhile to point out that it is a great camera and if you purchase one you won't be let down. He's right though in that you really want to look at the lens family more than the body because once you choose, it's real hard to switch paths. The D40 is essentially Nikon taking a great camera and cutting out a lot of stuff to make it cheaper. No, there is no internal AF which is a problem, especially with primes, which are what I like to shoot. But, to be honest there are only a few lenses you're going to need, and Nikon's AF-S is on all of their popular models, in fact they just came out with a 50mm AF-S for a fairly significant increase in the price over the MF. Honestly between Canon and Nikon, in the cheap bodies at least, it's a crap shoot, you have to decide if you want the in body AF, otherwise they are very similar. But I would say the Canon is probably the better entry level DSLR.

    Dark_Side on
  • RenegadeSilenceRenegadeSilence Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Cheers guys. It seems Canon is the way to go because of the versatility of the lenses as you mentioned. Most of these lenses are as expensive as the camera! I'm scouting a couple of used bodies on ebay. Some even have different lenses packaged too. I assume they build quality is good enough for me to buy second hand, so that should be alright :)

    Cheers guys, anymore suggestions are welcome :)

    Watch out on ebay, especially with specialty shops sometimes they will package a crappy lens/lenses with the body, they will even go as far as lying about the brand of lens they will send you. Scouring the sellers bad feedback is a good indicator if they will try to pull this on you.
    Darkmoon's advice is solid especially the bit about the d40's etc.

    RenegadeSilence on
  • Dark_SideDark_Side Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Good point about ebay, also be especially careful about some sites that have prices that seem too good to be true. Sites like THIS look legit and have an amazing price compared to Amazon's and more reputable vendors. This is because they are running a bait and switch operation, with high pressure sales calls hawking cheap 3rd party accessories for highly inflated prices. And if you want out, or won't buy their crap, they charge exorbitant restocking fees. Just google search the site's name and you'll see what I mean, and there are a lot of nefarious types running this scheme on the internet.

    I only put the link in there so you can see what I'm referring to in the wild, do not purchase anything from them, it's a complete scam operation.

    Dark_Side on
  • BasarBasar IstanbulRegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    FredMiranda.com is another good site for lens reviews. I have been a member for 5+ years and they have excellent forums (+weekly contests to motivate you).

    Basar on
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  • RenegadeSilenceRenegadeSilence Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Oh yeah I also forgot to add, some of the vendors on ebay will get their cameras from out of your region. Some manufacturers will then refuse to service them even if your willing to pay, I believe Nikon has a policy similar to this.

    RenegadeSilence on
  • Dark MoonDark Moon Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    I would advise against buying used if you can't test out the camera before buying (ie. buy only local used). You need to be able to take a few test shots, check how dirty the sensor is and that it's functioning properly (view the test shots on a monitor), that the mirror apparatus and shutter assembly is working properly, that there isn't any corrosion on the electrical contacts on the lens mount, and see how many shutter actuations the shutter has, for starters.

    There are also big warranty issues. Buying a camera body outside of your country, especially used but sometimes also new, may create big warranty issues should you need service from your country's camera manufacturer's service centre. This will be different for every manufacturer, but in general your country's service centre will only honour warranties on cameras purchased in the same country.

    Check any site you may want to buy a camera from on resellerratings.com. There are a ridiculous number of scam sites that will offer cheap camera bodies either lacking critical components (pentaprism assemblies, lens mounts, etc.) or just never ship the bodies.

    Dark Moon on
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  • mooshoeporkmooshoepork Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Thanks for all the advice. I'll definitely either buy from a retailer here in Melbourne (after having a feel of the camera) or maybe...maybe a store on ebay. It's hard to resist how much cheaper they are (even with 100% positive). If you guys really advise against it though, I'll give it a miss.

    It seems like I want a: canon EOS 450D , which I think is the same as the rebel...Xsi?

    So it comes with a standard (35mm?) lens? Should I really look into getting another lens straight away?

    Any suggestions for books to get me started (so I don't have to ask noob questions here) would also be appreciated, if there are any must have books :)

    edit: for instance. The canon comes with:

    EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 IS

    I have no idea what the hell that means, other than it is a lens. Can someone break it down for me :P

    I heard 50 mm lenses are good.

    edit: and these ones on ebay that list it as a "body" but have a picture of one with a lens...I'm assuming they don't actually come with a lens unless explicitly stated?

    mooshoepork on
  • TrekkieTrekkie Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    EF-S is the mount type. This only works on sub-35mm frame cameras such as the 30D, 40D, and I assume the new 50D. It does not work on the 'bigger' cameras such as the 1D, 5D, 1Ds.

    18-55mm is the focal length, it's a zoom so you get anywhere from 18 to 55mm.

    I personally never owned an EF-S lens as I despise them on principle, so i don't understand exactly what the 18-55 'means' other than it's a wide to telephoto lens. Personally when one of my previous cameras came with the 20D I used to own I put it on ebay and got maybe $90 for it.

    On a regular EF lens you can take the focal length times 1.6 to get the 'what it is on a 35mm SLR' number, but again teh numbers are pretty subjective you have to know how to translate it.

    Here's a nice primer on how to understand what focal length means:

    http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/focal-length.html


    the 50mm f/1.8 lens from canon is one of the most under-rated lenses on the planet. It's at most US$90 at least in the states, cheap, durable, and produces some of the sharpest images around.

    One thing I highly recommend is quickly learning how to shoot in full manual mode. One of my favorite books as far as teaching how to use all the function/ability your nice DSLR lets you do was 'Understanding Exposure' by Bryan Peterson (think that was the name). It's a very nice short book that even has some little 'here try this to see how it works' things and covers basic exposure, f-stop, etc. It's not too artsy, and it's not too dry. Worked for me.

    Trekkie on
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  • saltinesssaltiness Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Trekkie wrote: »
    I personally never owned an EF-S lens as I despise them on principle, so i don't understand exactly what the 18-55 'means' other than it's a wide to telephoto lens. Personally when one of my previous cameras came with the 20D I used to own I put it on ebay and got maybe $90 for it.

    On a regular EF lens you can take the focal length times 1.6 to get the 'what it is on a 35mm SLR' number, but again teh numbers are pretty subjective you have to know how to translate it.

    Focal length is focal length. There's no difference between an 18-55 on a crop camera and one on a full frame. There's absolutely nothing wrong with EF-S lenses in fact one of the best lenses available is EF-S - the 17-55mm f/2.8 IS which I own is an essential lens for me. Unless you plan on buying an expensive full frame camera in the near future EF-S lenses are the way to go.

    saltiness on
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  • DjeetDjeet Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Focal length is indeed focal length, but when you project an image meant to be projected upon a 35mm frame onto a sensor that is APS-C-sized (about 2/3rds the size) you only get the center of the image.

    The image appears to be blown up, magnified, whatever you want to call it. So an EF mount 50mm prime, installed on a Rebel (or 10D) which has a 1.6x focal length multiplier (crop factor) gives an effective image through the viewfinder (and onto the sensor) of looking through a 35mm frame camera with an 80mm lens.

    I have seen this by comparing the VF and pictures shot through my 50mm prime installed on my 10D vs. my friends 1Ds.

    A 50mm lens on a 1.6 crop factor sensor does not exactly yield the FOV of an 80mm lens on a full frame sensor, but it's a good enough estimate.

    Also an 18-55 is more wide to normal, than wide to tele.

    Djeet on
  • saltinesssaltiness Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Yeah I worded that second sentence wrong. What I meant is there's no difference in the focal length designations on EF-S and EF lenses, crop specific lenses aren't marked with the equivalent field of view focal lengths like point-and-shoot cameras are. They will yield different results on crop vs. full frame.

    saltiness on
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  • mooshoeporkmooshoepork Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Thanks for clearing that up, I had a bit of a look around today. A salesperson recommended me the EOS 1000D rather than the EOS 450D, stating the only difference was a smaller screen and less mega pixels.

    Is he right? Would I be better off with the 1000D? It's a lot cheaper...probably about 800-900 AUS dollars new.

    Most of the ones I saw today were bundled with lenses. I was unsure of their quality though.

    I saw this lens, which seemed to be the one you guys spoke of ( a 50 mm one)
    25802ev.jpg

    So, what do you guys think?
    dokio1.jpg
    or
    xlbhpk.jpg


    edit: Am I better off getting just the body first then buying a lens? or getting the lens that comes with the 450D already packaged in. If the former, any specific lenses you'd recommend for an all rounder/sharp image? I'm checking out that review site for reference.

    edit 2: Okay, I realised that lens has no zoom. Which is probably a no go at the moment! I think I'll survive with the bundled lens.

    I also found a really good deal via a reputable store.

    1000 AUD (700 US) (at least good for Australia, we usually get reamed, this camera is sometimes 2000 at some stores) for the camera, the stock lens, a crumpler bag and a 75 dollar visa prepaid card, which would come in handy. Seems like a great deal.

    mooshoepork on
  • DjeetDjeet Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Another difference is the 1000D lacks spot metering. I wish I had it on my 10D, but not enough to upgrade at this time. If I were buying new and didn't already have a camera body, I'd try to get one that had spot metering.

    As for first lens,

    When I picked up my camera I got something like this although if I were getting a starter zoom I'd get something like this so I could have some useable wide end.

    The idea is that when you're starting out and you're just walking around shooting stuff trying to figure out how to get shots properly focussed and exposed, get a zoom that goes wide to normal/slightly tele so you have a lot of useable range around normal perspective. This is why the kit lens is often a zoom in that range. I'd avoid bundles that include real telephoto length unless you're sure the kind of photography you're interested in needs that.

    Those links aren't lens recommendations or anything, for that you can check out sites like fredmiranda or photozone. It could be the kit lens included would do you fine until you figure out what primes you want (or zooms, but I'm biased towards primes).


    On a 1.6 crop camera, normal perspective is exactly halfway between this and this (I have the latter and it's the lens I use the most). An alternative to getting a normal zoom as your first lens would be to get a normal lens and just zoom with your feet. This would be how I'd start out to save money on glass and not be left with lenses that I no longer use, but I also know how to use the gear and have some idea how to compose a shot.

    Do I recommend the Tamron I linked? I guess. I learned a lot shooting with it, but I've loaned it to a friend and I'm not in any hurry to get it back. I might've learned just as much with the kit lens, which adds like $100 to the bundled price. The canon standard zoom I linked costs 2-3X as much as the Tamron (and significantly more than the Rebel body) and I'm comfortable dropping that on glass now.

    I'd say invest in the best glass you can afford, because you'll still have it 5-10-15 years later, eventhough you've upgraded the body several times since. Either that, or get the cheapest standard zoom so it hurts less when you eventually put it down in favor of better glass.


    Edit: In the last bit above, I may have implied you'll be upgrading your camera body multiple times, this is not necessarily the case. I've had my 10D for 5 years and I feel no urgency to upgrade. I'd like spot metering, but in all other picture-taking capacities my current camera is fine. The only feature that would make me jump out and upgrade right now would be an affordable Canon body that had a full frame sensor (or a significantly shorter focal length multiplier).

    Djeet on
  • Dark_SideDark_Side Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    You should be fine with your kit lens, the 50mm is always a great first choice, but you may in fact want to spend that money on a flash instead, or something else down the road. An 18-55 zoom is a great walking around lens, it's great for shooting portraits and group shots, and does marginally well with landscapes. The big drawbacks are usually max f stop and depth of field. For instance my Nikon 18-55 kits lens is awesome as a standard lens but is really poor in low light and hard to achieve dramatic depth of field effects with. My 50mm on the other hand is not only sharp as hell and has a great depth of field, but also is fast as hell (great in low light) with its 1.8 f stop. Unfortunately I find it can be hard to use at places like a party or other close environs, a problem exacerbated by the crop factor. These are all things that you will learn as you progress in photography, but for starting out a DSLR and kit lens is really all you need. (Assuming you know to buy a good flash card for it too)

    Dark_Side on
  • mooshoeporkmooshoepork Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Thanks for the reply :) Some people were telling me these entry level cannons weren't worth it, as I was most likely to upgrade in a year or so. How true is that? I know it depends on my needs, but the 450D seems to get really good reviews.

    Also, I fail, but the dark_side, how did you get that sig? I had a look on flickerbadge, but couldn't figure it out.

    mooshoepork on
  • PheezerPheezer Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited October 2008
    Unlike the entry level Nikons, the entry level Canons don't have any truly massive failings feature-wise. You'll very likely spend a few years collecting lenses before you see any reason to upgrade the body. The next time anyone tells you that, ask them why and what's missing on them. If you can't get a specific reply, it's because you're not talking to someone who's actually all that familiar with them.

    Head over to dpreview.com if you want to see good, detailed reviews of the different bodies. You can also compare specs between them there, too.

    Pheezer on
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  • BasarBasar IstanbulRegistered User regular
    edited October 2008
    Thanks for the reply :) Some people were telling me these entry level cannons weren't worth it, as I was most likely to upgrade in a year or so. How true is that? I know it depends on my needs, but the 450D seems to get really good reviews.

    Also, I fail, but the dark_side, how did you get that sig? I had a look on flickerbadge, but couldn't figure it out.

    450D will treat you just fine for a few years. Remember, it is the lens that makes the most difference. There are numerous 3rd party firmwares that will let you extend your camera's capabilities. So no need to overspend on the body. This is of course my opinion, don't know what others think.

    Basar on
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  • FallingmanFallingman Registered User regular
    edited October 2008
    The thing with these cameras is that you will always find there's a newer model, but once you start looking at the cameras you're interested in - they are pretty much all "good" and in 10 years time, that camera will still take "good" pictures. And the lenses will be what you upgrade mostly.

    I wouldnt worry too much about it.

    Fallingman on
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