Quick question:
How much does a long block LS1 weigh? Long block meaning fully assembled and ready to be dropped into the engine, because apparently nobody knows what the fuck it means on the googles.
I ask because if it weighs 800+ lbs, I need to buy me a Miata:
Just note that throwing some v8 into a miata totally ruins the weight distribution and usually ruins the handling. Unless you can find some super light tiny v8 that weights as much as the miata's stock 1.8L motor. The 1.8L is about 290lbs according to some quick google-fu.
During that search I ran across someone's site where they were shoving a hyabusa engine into a miata because it weighted 135lbs.
Hayabusa engine/gearbox is a popular kit car fitment in the UK, for exactly the reasons you'd think.
Also if you buy a donor bike you can very often make near enough your money back selling the bodywork, tank, contact points, etc. (aka "the bits you ruin in a crash").
Radical make a hayabusa-derived v8 that goes up to 3.2 litres that weighs 88kg (195lbs ish) but you probably wouldn't want to transplant it into an mx-5.
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TehSlothHit Or MissI Guess They Never Miss, HuhRegistered Userregular
Quick question:
How much does a long block LS1 weigh? Long block meaning fully assembled and ready to be dropped into the engine, because apparently nobody knows what the fuck it means on the googles.
I ask because if it weighs 800+ lbs, I need to buy me a Miata:
Just note that throwing some v8 into a miata totally ruins the weight distribution and usually ruins the handling. Unless you can find some super light tiny v8 that weights as much as the miata's stock 1.8L motor. The 1.8L is about 290lbs according to some quick google-fu.
During that search I ran across someone's site where they were shoving a hyabusa engine into a miata because it weighted 135lbs.
Hayabusa engine/gearbox is a popular kit car fitment in the UK, for exactly the reasons you'd think.
Also if you buy a donor bike you can very often make near enough your money back selling the bodywork, tank, contact points, etc. (aka "the bits you ruin in a crash").
Radical make a hayabusa-derived v8 that goes up to 3.2 litres that weighs 88kg (195lbs ish) but you probably wouldn't want to transplant it into an mx-5.
Doing the radiator, hoses, thermostat and housing this weekend on my Cherokee. Should be fun.
Those aren't too bad, I'd look at changing over to an open system though.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
this replacement is just to get this engine through until I can swap to the donor '91 engine that I have. Otherwise I would convert to the open system. I hope to god I can get that engine done this year. Just ordered my lift kit, so the engine is the next big project once the lifts done.
I've driven automatics all my life but lately I've had the urge to learn manual.
Problem is I don't know anybody that has a stick shift that I can ask for a lesson.
I've looked into getting a sub $1K beater on Autotrader or something to learn on but I don't have room for an extra car.
What do you guys suggest? Those of you that drive stick how did you learn?
Self taught. I bought a brand new 1999 Escort ZX2 with a 5 speed having never driven one before. So I taught myself over a weekend before driving to school on Monday.
So we get stiff once in a while. So we have a little fun. What’s wrong with that? This is a free country, isn’t it? I can take my panda any place I want to. And if I wanna buy it a drink, that’s my business.
I learned on country roads in the shittiest 70's truck ever at the age of 14. I taught my wife in a parking lot in less than an hour. It really isn't that difficult if you understand the theory and have a bit of time and space to learn. Got any buddies that work at a dealership?
Self taught. I bought a brand new 1999 Escort ZX2 with a 5 speed having never driven one before. So I taught myself over a weekend before driving to school on Monday.
That's interesting. So you bought the car without a test drive?
It would work if you had a friend who could test drive for you and drive it off the lot for you, then force that friend to ride while you learn the intricacies of clutch-accelator management.
It would work if you had a friend who could test drive for you and drive it off the lot for you, then force that friend to ride while you learn the intricacies of clutch-accelator management.
My dad test drove it with me in the car, and the salesman delivered it to my house.
So we get stiff once in a while. So we have a little fun. What’s wrong with that? This is a free country, isn’t it? I can take my panda any place I want to. And if I wanna buy it a drink, that’s my business.
Self taught. I bought a brand new 1999 Escort ZX2 with a 5 speed having never driven one before. So I taught myself over a weekend before driving to school on Monday.
That's interesting. So you bought the car without a test drive?
I test drove my Impreza by having the salesman teach me how to drive a stick. I'd driven automatics for 12 years. The Impreza was the first new car I had ever bought, so it was going to be a manual.
If you're comfortable with driving already (So you're not learning the other stuff while also learning to drive manual), it's really easy. Just go look at some cars, do some test drives and you can always let the salesman drive for a bit if you want to get a sense of the ride without being focused on working the transmission.
I've driven automatics all my life but lately I've had the urge to learn manual.
Problem is I don't know anybody that has a stick shift that I can ask for a lesson.
I've looked into getting a sub $1K beater on Autotrader or something to learn on but I don't have room for an extra car.
What do you guys suggest? Those of you that drive stick how did you learn?
So my basic teaching suggestion is to get one of the force feedback wheels with a set of pedals including a clutch and a racing game for the console of your choice. This isn't gonna every thing you need to drive stick but it will get you past the point where you're likely to do actual damage to a clutch. You'll still have to practice stuff like hill starts and things like that but that's something you practice in a car anyway.
I've driven automatics all my life but lately I've had the urge to learn manual.
Problem is I don't know anybody that has a stick shift that I can ask for a lesson.
I've looked into getting a sub $1K beater on Autotrader or something to learn on but I don't have room for an extra car.
What do you guys suggest? Those of you that drive stick how did you learn?
So my basic teaching suggestion is to get one of the force feedback wheels with a set of pedals including a clutch and a racing game for the console of your choice. This isn't gonna every thing you need to drive stick but it will get you past the point where you're likely to do actual damage to a clutch. You'll still have to practice stuff like hill starts and things like that but that's something you practice in a car anyway.
The Today's Deal on amazon is a Logitech G27 racing wheel with all that stuff. Do you, uh, work for amazon??
Hah! Anyways, there it is for I assume cheaper than usual for today if anyone is interested.
"I never knew my father. But my mom bought me my first muscle car when I was 14."
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L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
Alright car thread, I have a maintenance question for you.
My car has one of those plastic engine cover dealies on the bottom to protect it from random shit. On mine, it's warped and the back part is flexed forward, causing it to rub on shit. It's apparently been this way for a while but now is the first I've noticed it. I don't know if the protector is functional, though my initial thought is that it doesn't do anything but protect from road debris.
What's the general way to deal with it, short of actually ripping it out? Or, if it's non-functional, is it best to get rid of it and deal with road crap hitting the underside?
I guess I'm just not sure I want to pull it off and have the engine get wrecked, but if I can get away without replacing it altogether, which is going to be stupid expensive because Subaru, I'd like to just make it work.
My WRX has the same stuff on the bottom. I'd suggest keeping it there since it improves aerodynamics and protects your engine. Zip ties are your friend.
XBL: heavenkils
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited March 2014
If it's just a small bit rubbing you might be able to get some small snips and trim off the offending edge.
Eh, bellypans are irritating, and don't do much of anything to protect the engine, but they may have some function in channeling air. I would assume more for aerodynamic purposes rather than cooling though. My Audi is missing it's bellypan with no obvious issues, for many years.
Alright car thread, I have a maintenance question for you.
My car has one of those plastic engine cover dealies on the bottom to protect it from random shit. On mine, it's warped and the back part is flexed forward, causing it to rub on shit. It's apparently been this way for a while but now is the first I've noticed it. I don't know if the protector is functional, though my initial thought is that it doesn't do anything but protect from road debris.
What's the general way to deal with it, short of actually ripping it out? Or, if it's non-functional, is it best to get rid of it and deal with road crap hitting the underside?
I guess I'm just not sure I want to pull it off and have the engine get wrecked, but if I can get away without replacing it altogether, which is going to be stupid expensive because Subaru, I'd like to just make it work.
I'm a little late to the party but I'm going to agree with salti and suggest using some zip ties. If you have to cut/drill a hole in a few places of the bent part of the plastic and run a zip tie through it up to some non-heat conducting part.
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
If it's just a small bit rubbing you might be able to get some small snips and trim off the offending edge.
oh yea, my lift kit showed up! Exciting!
Should there be 4 springs there instead of 2?
There are 4 springs there.
(Cherokee is coil front, leaf rear)
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L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
I forgot to thank you guys. I knew there was some easy way of fixing it but I just couldn't figure it out. Once it gets reasonably warm I'll be zip tying the stupid thing back together. Although, that does give me an excuse to replace it with a metal one now...
Posts
Hayabusa engine/gearbox is a popular kit car fitment in the UK, for exactly the reasons you'd think.
Also if you buy a donor bike you can very often make near enough your money back selling the bodywork, tank, contact points, etc. (aka "the bits you ruin in a crash").
Radical make a hayabusa-derived v8 that goes up to 3.2 litres that weighs 88kg (195lbs ish) but you probably wouldn't want to transplant it into an mx-5.
that sounds absolutely terrifying
twitch.tv/tehsloth
http://www.radicalsportscars.com/uk/showroom/radical-sr8-rx.aspx
For the SR8LM they claim performance on a par with a Le Mans prototype.
Actually I think, for at least AutoX applications, miata people tend to prefer a supercharger over a turbo.
Whatever, Forced air? Forced Air.
http://jalopnik.com/how-jeff-gordon-scared-the-crap-out-of-me-1531016226
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Those aren't too bad, I'd look at changing over to an open system though.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I've driven automatics all my life but lately I've had the urge to learn manual.
Problem is I don't know anybody that has a stick shift that I can ask for a lesson.
I've looked into getting a sub $1K beater on Autotrader or something to learn on but I don't have room for an extra car.
What do you guys suggest? Those of you that drive stick how did you learn?
Self taught. I bought a brand new 1999 Escort ZX2 with a 5 speed having never driven one before. So I taught myself over a weekend before driving to school on Monday.
That's interesting. So you bought the car without a test drive?
My dad test drove it with me in the car, and the salesman delivered it to my house.
I test drove my Impreza by having the salesman teach me how to drive a stick. I'd driven automatics for 12 years. The Impreza was the first new car I had ever bought, so it was going to be a manual.
If you're comfortable with driving already (So you're not learning the other stuff while also learning to drive manual), it's really easy. Just go look at some cars, do some test drives and you can always let the salesman drive for a bit if you want to get a sense of the ride without being focused on working the transmission.
This car is one of my favorites, just fantastic.
So my basic teaching suggestion is to get one of the force feedback wheels with a set of pedals including a clutch and a racing game for the console of your choice. This isn't gonna every thing you need to drive stick but it will get you past the point where you're likely to do actual damage to a clutch. You'll still have to practice stuff like hill starts and things like that but that's something you practice in a car anyway.
Those interior walls are wasted space. I'm talking open concept here! Sleep in your car, microwave on the work bench, and shitter at work.
You mean the extra parking space the car elevator is used for.
I mean we're gonna have lifts there, so I assume that makes a second story difficult. And we'll need a place for parts storage. Maybe some CNC tools.
The Today's Deal on amazon is a Logitech G27 racing wheel with all that stuff. Do you, uh, work for amazon??
Hah! Anyways, there it is for I assume cheaper than usual for today if anyone is interested.
"I never knew my father. But my mom bought me my first muscle car when I was 14."
My car has one of those plastic engine cover dealies on the bottom to protect it from random shit. On mine, it's warped and the back part is flexed forward, causing it to rub on shit. It's apparently been this way for a while but now is the first I've noticed it. I don't know if the protector is functional, though my initial thought is that it doesn't do anything but protect from road debris.
What's the general way to deal with it, short of actually ripping it out? Or, if it's non-functional, is it best to get rid of it and deal with road crap hitting the underside?
I guess I'm just not sure I want to pull it off and have the engine get wrecked, but if I can get away without replacing it altogether, which is going to be stupid expensive because Subaru, I'd like to just make it work.
oh yea, my lift kit showed up! Exciting!
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Lift kit woooo!
I'm a little late to the party but I'm going to agree with salti and suggest using some zip ties. If you have to cut/drill a hole in a few places of the bent part of the plastic and run a zip tie through it up to some non-heat conducting part.
Should there be 4 springs there instead of 2?
There are 4 springs there.
(Cherokee is coil front, leaf rear)
Leaf springs don't count as real springs
>_>
<_<
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981