I think I have the black Testor's bottle and I find that it's not easy to get the glue out and it seems to clog easily.
This thing, right?
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
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UtsanomikoBros before DoesRollin' in the thlayRegistered Userregular
Robotech's minis should most certainly be standard modeling plastic as mentioned, so you'll get more effective results with plastic cement over plain superglue.
The applicator is a thin metal tube and it comes with two cleaning pins to prevent clogs, which is perfect for cement as you don't need more than the thinnest coating on a surface to allow for bonding (the cement causes the plastic to partially melt, when the plastic solidifies it'll have bonded with the other plastic surface).
Wire clippers make for quick and easy removal of parts from their sprues, and an xacto is good for cleanup. I wouldn't recommend building more than a handful at a time if you want to get in the habit of painting them, it can get very daunting if you don't take a few at a time. Get a can of Krylon spray primer (white makes for good results but I find gray is a good basis for my needs) and prime the finished pieces from 3 different angles, about 8 inches from the models.
As for painting, I got my own experiences and preferences, but I will say for now thin your acrylics and don't keep the brush over-charged with paint.
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CorporateLogoThe toilet knowshow I feelRegistered Userregular
edited October 2014
Yeah that's the one
I find that if you leave it upside down for a few minutes before using it and while using it the glue comes out easier
I've never had issues with it clogging, though
Regardless of what plastic cement you go with, I just want to reiterate that you should not start with the red tube Testor's
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Do not have a cow, mortal.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
This stuff is amazing and I love it and use it with everything and it works just fine.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I've used a number of plastic cements, and the Tamiya brush applicator bottles were far and away my favourite. It's so hassle-free, clean, and easy to get exactly how much you want where you want. They offer a few consistencies as well, as Dayspring showed. If indeed they're ABS plastic models and are receptive to plastic cement, that's my vote as well.
Others have cleared up side cutters well. By "hobby knife", I mean a craft knife. AKA, one of these:
The notion of only cutting off a piece when you need it is a good one. That said, with my dry fitting suggestion, you'll probably wind up with one whole miniature off the sprue at a time, and that's fine. Just cut and clean each piece, one by one, and try fitting them together as you go. That way you know you're not missing anything. Also, use a small cup or something to put the pieces in as you finish them so you don't lose any.
I really, really like those loctite superglue bottles but in the case of these Robotech models @Xaviar has, apparently you really need the melting property of plastic cement to minimize any seams since each leg/arm/missilepod/etc./etc. is in two parts at the very least.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I always get confused when we talk glue. Plastic cement is cyanoacrylate-based, right?
I see a lot of cyanoacrylate-based glue labeled as "superglue" here.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
No. Cyanoacrylate-based glues ARE superglue.
Plastic cement / model glue is Butanone-based. It's not actually a glue so much as a solvent that allows you to weld plastic together. However, it only works on certain type of plastic, hence my original comment. For example, it has no effect whatsoever on PVC plastic, which is why you have to use superglue on PP kits.
One last thing: In my experience non-toxic plastic cement is useless.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
I normally use Revell Contacta Pro (the one with the 0.5mm needle tip) stepped down to 0.3mm for better control on small models and it's fine fir most styrenes, but if I need to join ABS or something equally weird, I have a dichloromethane based liquid called EMA Plastic Weld. It is ridiculously volatile as you'd expect from chlorinated methane but is great for really tiny gaps as it will penetrate the whole join even if you just dab a drop on the surface with a brush. Plus, since it doesn't hang around, you can use it to 'heal' tooling marks from files and mould line removal without worrying too much about getting fingerprints on your Wych's pants.
Ok. That's all confusing. Someone should authoritatively post an Amazon link and I'll just get that.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
edited October 2014
Contacta Pro Plastic Weld
You'll also want a natural fibre brush to apply the plastic weld.
E: try the Contacta Pro first; it's super easy to use: point the needle at the surfaces and DON'T squeeze – just let it flow out.
I love robotech! I put together a model car back in middle school in the 90s. My battle cry backer stuff just came.
Send help!
Seriously though. Somebody walk me through this step by step. I can probably figure it out but I'd like to avoid avoidable mistakes.
I'm putting together the Zentradi first, the battlepods and officer pods go together great. The recon pod on the other hand, I've got sprue shavings larger than some of the bits on that thing (it is easily the most frustrating so far). Last time I put any model together was when Ral Partha was making Battletech minis, I'll post my painting attempts once I get all this plastic in recognizable shapes.
I've been following your tips on thinning down the paints and applying layers with multiple coats. I think its working. Got a few work in progress will hopefully get some pics soon.
Welp, the gun arm fell off my Morat Engineer when it tipped over. So now I'm pinning that shit.
Also trying a different glue - mostly because my Loctite superglue bottle got all gummy. This one is ethylenediamine-based. Seems to try a bit gummier than cyanoacrylate, so it should be more shock-resistant.
That's my problem with cyanoacrylate glues - they dry completely solid, but brittle.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I find it funny that as soon as @Dayspring started posting pictures of painted minis again, I had to stop. We just can't occupy the same space, apparently. :P
It's actually that, while I really want to be painting recently, I've been having a friend stay with me for the last 2 weeks, and then I go away for a week next week, and then that friend comes back and stays with me another month, and I don't have room to set up my painting table while they're here. Sooooo ... fiddlesticks!
I thought a lot about SS but this Xmas I'll be back in the UK for a month, and together with moving I'm not sure I'll be in a position to either send or receive gifts, sadly
Define "Small brush".
I do basically all my painting with a 1 liner and a 0/5 round. I pulled out an old flat-brush for the Condor I had started, and that was a good idea. So yeah, don't be afraid to start with a big brush and use a smaller one once you get to detail work.
This is what I paint with. From top to bottom:
3/0
00
0
1
2
Base is 25mm for scale.
For average painting of a standard 30mm-scaled dude I typically use the size 1 to block out the big areas with the basecoat, then switch to the size 0 for nearly all of the work from there on, and the size 00 for finer details. It's pretty rare that I have to break out the 3/0.
The bottom four brushes are the G&G kickstarter brushes.
Yeah, haven't decided on them yet. I also need to find a decent off-white so I can get all bases uniform, I mixed something up for that light base. (Darker base is P3 Jack Bone.)
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I'm still having trouble finding Kolinsky sable in my area. Good thing my W&N 7 miniature 0 and 1 are lasting me forever. I also have two of the newer normal-sized Raphael 4404 1 and 2, and they're ok, but clearly inferior to their earlier counterparts.
I'm pretty happy because I think the highlight colors are brighter and the blending is smoother. I have a harder time picking the right way to paint the hoods though and I'm still working out the best color scheme for the parts of the models that will be uniform, i.e. everything but the cloaks.
Would anyone be interested in doing another charity army for Child's Play? Haven't got anything specific in mind, just putting out feelers. If there's enough interest I'd be willing to run it again (maybe knowing it's for charity will encourage people to not make me hate them so much).
Everyday I wake up is the worst day of my life.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I would love to, but then I wind up looking at the cost of buying models and paint, and the cost of shipping it soundly from Canada, I usually just want to donate that money to the root cause ...
<- The worst.
Would anyone be interested in doing another charity army for Child's Play? Haven't got anything specific in mind, just putting out feelers. If there's enough interest I'd be willing to run it again (maybe knowing it's for charity will encourage people to not make me hate them so much).
Do orks.
If ever there were a motley band of folk, it would be them. It would just be a few more models than last time...
Posts
This thing, right?
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
I've been using Model Masters for over a decade:
amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-For-Plastics-1-15oz/dp/B0006N6ODS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414772664&sr=8-1&keywords=model+masters+plastic+glue
The applicator is a thin metal tube and it comes with two cleaning pins to prevent clogs, which is perfect for cement as you don't need more than the thinnest coating on a surface to allow for bonding (the cement causes the plastic to partially melt, when the plastic solidifies it'll have bonded with the other plastic surface).
Wire clippers make for quick and easy removal of parts from their sprues, and an xacto is good for cleanup. I wouldn't recommend building more than a handful at a time if you want to get in the habit of painting them, it can get very daunting if you don't take a few at a time. Get a can of Krylon spray primer (white makes for good results but I find gray is a good basis for my needs) and prime the finished pieces from 3 different angles, about 8 inches from the models.
As for painting, I got my own experiences and preferences, but I will say for now thin your acrylics and don't keep the brush over-charged with paint.
I find that if you leave it upside down for a few minutes before using it and while using it the glue comes out easier
I've never had issues with it clogging, though
Regardless of what plastic cement you go with, I just want to reiterate that you should not start with the red tube Testor's
This stuff is amazing and I love it and use it with everything and it works just fine.
Others have cleared up side cutters well. By "hobby knife", I mean a craft knife. AKA, one of these:
The notion of only cutting off a piece when you need it is a good one. That said, with my dry fitting suggestion, you'll probably wind up with one whole miniature off the sprue at a time, and that's fine. Just cut and clean each piece, one by one, and try fitting them together as you go. That way you know you're not missing anything. Also, use a small cup or something to put the pieces in as you finish them so you don't lose any.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
Fuck those minis, then.
Being able to use plastic cement is the best part of plastic miniatures
I see a lot of cyanoacrylate-based glue labeled as "superglue" here.
Plastic cement / model glue is Butanone-based. It's not actually a glue so much as a solvent that allows you to weld plastic together. However, it only works on certain type of plastic, hence my original comment. For example, it has no effect whatsoever on PVC plastic, which is why you have to use superglue on PP kits.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Plastic Weld
You'll also want a natural fibre brush to apply the plastic weld.
E: try the Contacta Pro first; it's super easy to use: point the needle at the surfaces and DON'T squeeze – just let it flow out.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I'm putting together the Zentradi first, the battlepods and officer pods go together great. The recon pod on the other hand, I've got sprue shavings larger than some of the bits on that thing (it is easily the most frustrating so far). Last time I put any model together was when Ral Partha was making Battletech minis, I'll post my painting attempts once I get all this plastic in recognizable shapes.
edit: also, poor pic.
Moving to a new apartment but got my first Deva Functionary done. Better pics in the new place I hope.
Bad news is my brush slipped and my Sophotect's white coat is now white and silver
Also trying a different glue - mostly because my Loctite superglue bottle got all gummy. This one is ethylenediamine-based. Seems to try a bit gummier than cyanoacrylate, so it should be more shock-resistant.
That's my problem with cyanoacrylate glues - they dry completely solid, but brittle.
It's actually that, while I really want to be painting recently, I've been having a friend stay with me for the last 2 weeks, and then I go away for a week next week, and then that friend comes back and stays with me another month, and I don't have room to set up my painting table while they're here. Sooooo ... fiddlesticks!
Also, you sign up for CF SS yet? Hmmm? HMMMMMM?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Ok it's good to know you found a photo of me but what do you think about the deva
This is what I paint with. From top to bottom:
Base is 25mm for scale.
For average painting of a standard 30mm-scaled dude I typically use the size 1 to block out the big areas with the basecoat, then switch to the size 0 for nearly all of the work from there on, and the size 00 for finer details. It's pretty rare that I have to break out the 3/0.
The bottom four brushes are the G&G kickstarter brushes.
Wait, that's not a photo of you?
I'm pretty happy because I think the highlight colors are brighter and the blending is smoother. I have a harder time picking the right way to paint the hoods though and I'm still working out the best color scheme for the parts of the models that will be uniform, i.e. everything but the cloaks.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
Would anyone be interested in doing another charity army for Child's Play? Haven't got anything specific in mind, just putting out feelers. If there's enough interest I'd be willing to run it again (maybe knowing it's for charity will encourage people to not make me hate them so much).
<- The worst.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Stopping point for today:
Do orks.
If ever there were a motley band of folk, it would be them. It would just be a few more models than last time...