Ohh, I'd never heard of slipping a stitch - looks like its just putting one stitch from one needle to the other, thats easy enough! Wish I'd realised curling was a thing that happened, but oh well! Its my first go - I'm sure it'll be fine!
A picked-up edging can be used to knock out the curling in an otherwise flat piece of stockinette, that's often used for button bands of cardigans and so on.
lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
i am getting so very tired of this blanket.
I'm on the last bit of the basketweave repeat. But.... UGH. Want to finish this so I can start on the NEXT baby blanket that's waiting for me.
Which is gonna be FUN! My coworker's having a little girl and naming her Olivia. So I'm making her a circle blanket. Because, you know, "O" for Olivia. It's going to be a repeat of electric pink, white, grey, black starting from the middle with 1 row of each and then going out from there, 2 rows, 3 rows, 4 rows, etc. Either until ti's a length that I love, or I run out of wool.
Has anyone here done resin impregnation on wood before?
I've been planning on making a wooden ring from a hardwood and I'm curious about resin impregnation on wood to give it greater stability.
If you're curious I've had ambitions of making a Lookouts ring for the past two year since Gabe put this in a news post
I also have a quick favor to ask of you readers. I’m looking for someone who can make me a really nice wood ring with the inscription “May we die in the forest” on it. Ideally I’d like two, one for myself and one for Child’s Play. If this is a skill you possess please shoot me a mail.
-Gabe out
I'm going out tomorrow to get a billet of exotic hardwood to work on. If it works out I plan to give a pair to Child's Play or a Child's Play adjacent fundraiser (like Dessert Bus).
epoxy coating is one solution; there are also some automotive polyurethanes worth a look. depends on the kind of resin work you want to do though.
like if you want resin-filled details, epoxy is preferable, if you just want a tough waterproof gloss coat I'd probably go with the poly.
I was hoping there was a way of forcing the resin into the wood grain to increase the hardness. The only resins I know of for that are the kind used with fiberglass under vacuum and they're also ridiculously toxic and not something I'd want making prolonged skin contact with.
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knitdanIn ur baseKillin ur guysRegistered Userregular
Assuming it's possible, wouldn't hardening the wood make it more difficult to work with? Or would this be after it was finished?
“I was quick when I came in here, I’m twice as quick now”
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
Assuming it's possible, wouldn't hardening the wood make it more difficult to work with? Or would this be after it was finished?
I'm assuming after most of the work has been done, but before doing the finishing.
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lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
12 more rows. that's it. I only have to basket weave 12 more rows.
and then do an edging.
and then block it.
And then realize that it's god ugly and awful and I wouldn't give it to another living soul and then panic because now I need to figure out another present for this person who is just so much better at every craft thing than I am.
she spins her own wool, for heaven's sake. How can I possibly hope to gift her a blanket that i made that has mistakes, inconsistencies and looks so atrocious. I should just give up now and change tracks and figure out something else to make for her.
You could possibly try sanding it in, if you have a particularly runny epoxy, but you'd have to be really careful not to gum up your sander. That's the only way I know of getting liquid deep into the wood grain like that.
epoxy coating is one solution; there are also some automotive polyurethanes worth a look. depends on the kind of resin work you want to do though.
like if you want resin-filled details, epoxy is preferable, if you just want a tough waterproof gloss coat I'd probably go with the poly.
I was hoping there was a way of forcing the resin into the wood grain to increase the hardness. The only resins I know of for that are the kind used with fiberglass under vacuum and they're also ridiculously toxic and not something I'd want making prolonged skin contact with.
Have you looked at the Cactus Juice from TurnTex? You need a vacuum chamber setup to use it, but from what I've seen it works pretty well. And it's much easier to use on smaller blanks like pens.
ceresWhen the last moon is cast over the last star of morningAnd the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderatormod
If she's really giving it to a newborn it's essentially a giant spit rag anyway
And it seems like all is dying, and would leave the world to mourn
epoxy coating is one solution; there are also some automotive polyurethanes worth a look. depends on the kind of resin work you want to do though.
like if you want resin-filled details, epoxy is preferable, if you just want a tough waterproof gloss coat I'd probably go with the poly.
I was hoping there was a way of forcing the resin into the wood grain to increase the hardness. The only resins I know of for that are the kind used with fiberglass under vacuum and they're also ridiculously toxic and not something I'd want making prolonged skin contact with.
The poly I'm talking about is probably your best bet then, it's inert once it's cured
epoxy coating is one solution; there are also some automotive polyurethanes worth a look. depends on the kind of resin work you want to do though.
like if you want resin-filled details, epoxy is preferable, if you just want a tough waterproof gloss coat I'd probably go with the poly.
I was hoping there was a way of forcing the resin into the wood grain to increase the hardness. The only resins I know of for that are the kind used with fiberglass under vacuum and they're also ridiculously toxic and not something I'd want making prolonged skin contact with.
The poly I'm talking about is probably your best bet then, it's inert once it's cured
epoxy coating is one solution; there are also some automotive polyurethanes worth a look. depends on the kind of resin work you want to do though.
like if you want resin-filled details, epoxy is preferable, if you just want a tough waterproof gloss coat I'd probably go with the poly.
I was hoping there was a way of forcing the resin into the wood grain to increase the hardness. The only resins I know of for that are the kind used with fiberglass under vacuum and they're also ridiculously toxic and not something I'd want making prolonged skin contact with.
Have you looked at the Cactus Juice from TurnTex? You need a vacuum chamber setup to use it, but from what I've seen it works pretty well. And it's much easier to use on smaller blanks like pens.
Went to Rockler woodworking a few hours ago and picked up two strips of Padouk (1/4" thick for practice and 3/4" thick for making the final blanks) and a block of Redheart. I looked at the other hardwoods available (Zebra Wood, Wenge, Mahogany, Oak, and Ironwood) but the patterns and colors just didn't look good to me.
First practice blank on Padouk finished with tung oil
I still haven't found anywhere else to post about our pumpkins and I'm super excited about them so I'll post here. I can stop with the pumpkin talk though if y'all don't want it here or don't care. They're still really growing and taking over our yard! Now there's a lot more flowers on them and this morning on our way back from picking up some breakfast I saw a cicada shell on one and then noticed a shitload of bees buzzing around the flowers and pollinating like whoa. That's a good thing because pollinated flowers means pumpkins eventually!
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SheriResident FlufferMy Living RoomRegistered Userregular
Went to Rockler woodworking a few hours ago and picked up two strips of Padouk (1/4" thick for practice and 3/4" thick for making the final blanks) and a block of Redheart. I looked at the other hardwoods available (Zebra Wood, Wenge, Mahogany, Oak, and Ironwood) but the patterns and colors just didn't look good to me.
First practice blank on Padouk finished with tung oil
I've been working with different woods the last week and when I get back home I'll post some pictures. What's caught my mind lately though is the idea of making a companion piece to the Lookouts ring to go with the Daughters of the Eyrewood. I've been brainstorming some ideas, but so far all I've come up with is a flowering vine design. I figured there are some more artsy people than me on here who will have better ideas.
Practiced burning in some lettering, but I'm not quite dextrous enough yet to make the lettering much smaller.
This is just a wider version
The ring on the right is Bocote, a Mexican hardwood. I'm starting to get that each hardwood has it's own distinct smell. Bocote is very spicy and strong, while Padouk is very sweet almost like bubblegum. It's hard to tell whether the smell when working with purpleheart is due to the wood or my tools, steel is easier to cut than this.
This is something I was working on for practice. A purpleheart bloom with a birch flower bud.
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knitdanIn ur baseKillin ur guysRegistered Userregular
edited July 2015
Not to second guess you but aren't a lot of those hardwoods kind of toxic? Like maybe you shouldn't be breathing them in?
Also those are beautiful.
How do you do the rings? Do you use a lathe?
knitdan on
“I was quick when I came in here, I’m twice as quick now”
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
Not to second guess you but aren't a lot of those hardwoods kind of toxic? Like maybe you shouldn't be breathing them in?
Also those are beautiful.
How do you do the rings? Do you use a lathe?
Hey, no problem. The ones I'm working with are sensitizers but not toxic unless you are already allergic to certain types of woods. I'm not going to say it's a great idea, though. I keep everything clean and work in an open environment to keep the dust from accumulating too much and only work with it for about an hour or two a day. That last part is more due to the heat than anything else.
As far as the process, I'm stuck with what I've got for the moment, so I've been using a spade bit to cut the inside hole, a router to cut the outside diameter out of the plank, and working both with a dremel, sandpaper, and rasps to get the right size and thickness I want. This is probably going to change when I can get access to the lathe at the makerspace, but I'm still learning the basics with making wooden rings and I've had better luck learning with hand tools and working my way up from there. That said I've also turned the rubber drum from a cheap drum sanding kit into a ring holder so I can try and even out the shape, and trust me that if I could get my hands on a laser etcher I'd be using that rather than trying to burn in letters with woodburning tools (not keen on paying the prices for laser etching either).
Right now most of the rings I've made for practice were made to my size (about a 11 3/4 ring size) but I've made a couple of blanks to smaller sizes for practice and checked the sizes with a ring size dowel.
Dedwrekka on
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#pipeCocky Stride, Musky odoursPope of Chili TownRegistered Userregular
Not to second guess you but aren't a lot of those hardwoods kind of toxic? Like maybe you shouldn't be breathing them in?
You shouldn't really be breathing in any wood dust. Particulate matter that fine can cause a lot of lung irritation or damage. Luckily a regular disposable surgical mask works just fine if you're just working as a hobby. If you spend all day in a shop it's a good idea (and required by many employers) to get one of these:
with the added bonus that they keep your face nice and cool
I don't know for sure if this is the right spot but radroadkill has taken to coloring for stress relief and I am p proud.
Also, I didn't know adult coloring books existed but they are amazing.
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ceresWhen the last moon is cast over the last star of morningAnd the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderatormod
I absolutely love them. I had one that kept me calm during a very stressful time.
And it seems like all is dying, and would leave the world to mourn
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knitdanIn ur baseKillin ur guysRegistered Userregular
I've been working on one, when I get a picture done I'll post it. So relaxing, except for when I'm trying to do fine work (my hands have a bit of a tremble).
“I was quick when I came in here, I’m twice as quick now”
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
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lonelyahavaCall me Ahava ~~She/Her~~Move to New ZealandRegistered Userregular
huzzah huzzah. baby blanket number two is done!
now to start on the third one. and once that is done... well, who knows!
Posts
If you slip the first stitch of every row you can help reduce the curl, or you can do a set of two or three garter stitches at each edge
Even in the round stockinette is curly as heck!
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
Uncanny Magazine!
The Mad Writers Union
fifty finished cymbal picks. making them went pretty quick once i got the process down
hitting hot metal with hammers
I'm on the last bit of the basketweave repeat. But.... UGH. Want to finish this so I can start on the NEXT baby blanket that's waiting for me.
Which is gonna be FUN! My coworker's having a little girl and naming her Olivia. So I'm making her a circle blanket. Because, you know, "O" for Olivia. It's going to be a repeat of electric pink, white, grey, black starting from the middle with 1 row of each and then going out from there, 2 rows, 3 rows, 4 rows, etc. Either until ti's a length that I love, or I run out of wool.
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
I've been planning on making a wooden ring from a hardwood and I'm curious about resin impregnation on wood to give it greater stability.
If you're curious I've had ambitions of making a Lookouts ring for the past two year since Gabe put this in a news post
I'm going out tomorrow to get a billet of exotic hardwood to work on. If it works out I plan to give a pair to Child's Play or a Child's Play adjacent fundraiser (like Dessert Bus).
like if you want resin-filled details, epoxy is preferable, if you just want a tough waterproof gloss coat I'd probably go with the poly.
Uncanny Magazine!
The Mad Writers Union
I was hoping there was a way of forcing the resin into the wood grain to increase the hardness. The only resins I know of for that are the kind used with fiberglass under vacuum and they're also ridiculously toxic and not something I'd want making prolonged skin contact with.
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
I'm assuming after most of the work has been done, but before doing the finishing.
and then do an edging.
and then block it.
And then realize that it's god ugly and awful and I wouldn't give it to another living soul and then panic because now I need to figure out another present for this person who is just so much better at every craft thing than I am.
she spins her own wool, for heaven's sake. How can I possibly hope to gift her a blanket that i made that has mistakes, inconsistencies and looks so atrocious. I should just give up now and change tracks and figure out something else to make for her.
after i do these 12 rows....
Democrats Abroad! || Vote From Abroad
Stop that.
It will be nice and good and if she doesn't like it she can pound sand.
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
Have you looked at the Cactus Juice from TurnTex? You need a vacuum chamber setup to use it, but from what I've seen it works pretty well. And it's much easier to use on smaller blanks like pens.
http://www.turntex.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=121
The poly I'm talking about is probably your best bet then, it's inert once it's cured
Uncanny Magazine!
The Mad Writers Union
Cool! Is there a specific type to look out for?
Thanks! I'll check it out and see about the reviews.
First practice blank on Padouk finished with tung oil
I want one!
Sheri Baldwin Photography | Facebook | Twitter | Etsy Shop | BUY ME STUFF (updated for 2014!)
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also getting jobs, possibly.
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
Where's the snap button when you need it
:snap:
Practiced burning in some lettering, but I'm not quite dextrous enough yet to make the lettering much smaller.
This is just a wider version
The ring on the right is Bocote, a Mexican hardwood. I'm starting to get that each hardwood has it's own distinct smell. Bocote is very spicy and strong, while Padouk is very sweet almost like bubblegum. It's hard to tell whether the smell when working with purpleheart is due to the wood or my tools, steel is easier to cut than this.
This is something I was working on for practice. A purpleheart bloom with a birch flower bud.
Also those are beautiful.
How do you do the rings? Do you use a lathe?
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
Hey, no problem. The ones I'm working with are sensitizers but not toxic unless you are already allergic to certain types of woods. I'm not going to say it's a great idea, though. I keep everything clean and work in an open environment to keep the dust from accumulating too much and only work with it for about an hour or two a day. That last part is more due to the heat than anything else.
As far as the process, I'm stuck with what I've got for the moment, so I've been using a spade bit to cut the inside hole, a router to cut the outside diameter out of the plank, and working both with a dremel, sandpaper, and rasps to get the right size and thickness I want. This is probably going to change when I can get access to the lathe at the makerspace, but I'm still learning the basics with making wooden rings and I've had better luck learning with hand tools and working my way up from there. That said I've also turned the rubber drum from a cheap drum sanding kit into a ring holder so I can try and even out the shape, and trust me that if I could get my hands on a laser etcher I'd be using that rather than trying to burn in letters with woodburning tools (not keen on paying the prices for laser etching either).
Right now most of the rings I've made for practice were made to my size (about a 11 3/4 ring size) but I've made a couple of blanks to smaller sizes for practice and checked the sizes with a ring size dowel.
You shouldn't really be breathing in any wood dust. Particulate matter that fine can cause a lot of lung irritation or damage. Luckily a regular disposable surgical mask works just fine if you're just working as a hobby. If you spend all day in a shop it's a good idea (and required by many employers) to get one of these:
with the added bonus that they keep your face nice and cool
Need some stuff designed or printed? I can help with that.
Also, I didn't know adult coloring books existed but they are amazing.
-Indiana Solo, runner of blades
now to start on the third one. and once that is done... well, who knows!
perhaps some knitting practice
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