Thanks. It wasn't in the plan to upgrade but fuck it, 4 X 1GB isn't enough now, is it?
edit: FFS, how do I get the least popular form factor for RAMM?
4GB is what most would consider bare minimum these days, if that's all you can do, than you can live with it for a bit.
it isn't really that DDR2 is less popular but that it's old and not used anymore. Like anything old as time goes on it is harder to find the parts for it. I haven't used/seen a DDR2 computer in maybe 5 years, and that was when I replaced a 6-7 year old computer for my dad.
You're also not running Windows on a Raspberry Pi. At least not a version of windows that you can actually do anything with.
well yeah, by "windows OS" I figure he means an OS with a friendly GUI. If you mean Windows™, Raspberry uses ARM CPUs so no version of x86-based Windows will run on it without costly emulation.
You're also not running Windows on a Raspberry Pi. At least not a version of windows that you can actually do anything with.
well yeah, by "windows OS" I figure he means an OS with a friendly GUI. If you mean Windows™, Raspberry uses ARM CPUs so no version of x86-based Windows will run on it without costly emulation.
There's actually a Windows IOT version, but as of right now it consists of not much more than a Windows 10 kernel that you can push specifically built apps to. The principle is pretty cool, and if you're someone already familiar with Visual Studio it could be a lot of fun.
Hmm...looks like Amazon got a shipment of Zotac 1070 AMP!s in (they were shown as being in-stock last night and they're still listed as in-stock this morning). I'm a bit torn, though: a 1070 would be a bit of an upgrade over my current 980...but I've got a 1080-sized hole burning in my pocket (mostly after watching that Jackfrags impressions video).
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
Hmm...looks like Amazon got a shipment of Zotac 1070 AMP!s in (they were shown as being in-stock last night and they're still listed as in-stock this morning). I'm a bit torn, though: a 1070 would be a bit of an upgrade over my current 980...but I've got a 1080-sized hole burning in my pocket (mostly after watching that Jackfrags impressions video).
I seem to remember reading a PC Gamer comparison on mid-range cards, and Zotac scoring fairly high. They tend to not have quite the same aggressive overclock options as Gigabyte, ASUS, or some of the EVGAs, but they do have a decent cooler that will allow the user to OC the card themselves.
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
Finally gotten my MoBo back from RMA and my 5820k system BREATHES ONCE AGAIN!!!!!
Though sadly my damn sound card isn't detected correctly and I'm just about to buy a fucking Schitt Stack.
An external DAC/Amp solves a lot of other issues too. I got a magni/modi setup for my laptop ages ago and use it with my desktop now, I have no complaints at all. Just take a second before you plug in your headphones after you turn on the amp, it has a click a couple seconds after it turns on. I don't know anything about the new magni/modi but imagine they are just as good if not better.
I've placed a pre-order for a STRIX 1070 on Amazon. Estimated delivery date: July 25 - August 9.
:bigfrown:
Yeah, me too. Currently wondering if backordering from Newegg would be any faster.
I've been thinking the same thing. I'm worried about them, magically, both becoming available before I can cancel the other pre-order. That's the only thing stopping me.
I didn't even get a delivery estimate for the 1070 I ordered through Amazon.
Doubt I'll manage to track down an Asus or Gigabyte board in the next month anyway since I'm just not very good at babysitting nowinstock, so July 25-August 9 sounds alright to me.
Any ~$20-30 FPS-friendly wired mouse recommendations?
I've gotten heavily into Overwatch and am finding that my shitty old 400 DPI (iirc) Logitech MX310 just isn't cutting it, I feel like.
Razer Naga Hex is my recommendation. You can program the 6 buttons, too. If you don't like that many thumb buttons, I think there's a wires version of their wireless mouse.
Any ~$20-30 FPS-friendly wired mouse recommendations?
I've gotten heavily into Overwatch and am finding that my shitty old 400 DPI (iirc) Logitech MX310 just isn't cutting it, I feel like.
Razer Naga Hex is my recommendation. You can program the 6 buttons, too. If you don't like that many thumb buttons, I think there's a wires version of their wireless mouse.
EDIT - otherwise, I would highly recommend Razer's Deathadder. That thing is my go-to FPS mouse (especially the older version of the Mamba, which was just a wireless version of the Deathadder).
Erlkönig on
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
Any ~$20-30 FPS-friendly wired mouse recommendations?
I've gotten heavily into Overwatch and am finding that my shitty old 400 DPI (iirc) Logitech MX310 just isn't cutting it, I feel like.
Razer Naga Hex is my recommendation. You can program the 6 buttons, too. If you don't like that many thumb buttons, I think there's a wires version of their wireless mouse.
EDIT - otherwise, I would highly recommend Razer's Deathadder. That thing is my go-to FPS mouse (especially the older version of the Mamba, which was just a wireless version of the Deathadder).
If you can stretchyour budget to $50-60, the Razer Deathadder RGB Chroma is a solid mouse, feels great in the hand, works with most hand styles, and doesn't go fluffy with a ton of excess buttons which aren't necessary for FPS.
Zotac is basically the sister company of Sapphire. Sapphire does the AMD cards while Zotac does the Nvidia cards.
Hello! My name is Inigo Montoya! You killed my father prepare to die!
Looking for a Hardcore Fantasy Extraction Shooter? - Dark and Darker
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Tynnanseldom correct, never unsureRegistered Userregular
Hm. So after my build booted just fine, I installed Windows and was downloading drivers when the OS froze. It happened right as I was in the hard drive manager assigning a letter to my secondary storage drive (SSD with the OS was detected just fine, but my HDD wasn't showing up so I went to assign it), but I have no way of knowing if that affected anything. On restart it now has no video output. Clearing CMOS hasn't resolved the issue. Neither has playing around with which DIMM slots are populated with RAM.
Should I look into RMAing or replacing my motherboard? Or is there anything else I should try?
Before doing anything, ensure that everything is properly connected/seated.
Wherever you may have used some sort of stand off, either for the MB in the case or for some sort of CPU cooler, check to ensure you didn't accidentally short any of the traces that may run nearby.
Remove all but the bare minimum needed to boot. As in, a single stick of RAM, one hard drive, etc. And ensure that they are all properly seated.
DuriniaEvolved from Space PotatoesRegistered Userregular
edited June 2016
For those following my case questions from a few pages back:
I got HAF 912. I got it because 1) I have a 932 and love it, and 2) I discovered my Noctua mega-cooler (DH-14) fits in it, so when I transplanted my old build, I didn't have to remove it.
Transplant complete. Plenty of room!
Rest of my new stuff arrives tomorrow, so I'm going to try to rope my daughter into helping me install it all in my 932.
Durinia on
For business reasons, I must preserve the outward sign of sanity.
--Mark Twain
I have managed to get the 1080 I ordered from Best Buy, despite shipping it to the wrong address and Best Buy customer service doing literally nothing to help.
(Pro tip: you can ask UPS to not deliver a package, and hold it for pickup instead. You can accept delivery of a package as long as you have a government-issued ID that matches the name OR the address. So, I mean, don't ship expensive hardware to the wrong place, but if you do, UPS can probably help you out.)
For similar or better results and much more pleasing to the eye I go for Be quiet!
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Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
edited June 2016
I fuckin love lolhueg, impractical-looking heatsinks. I will never not find them hilarious.
I won this stupid thing at a LAN party many years back. I'm sure it wasn't even all that effective, but you bet your ass I stuffed it into the case somehow, regardless.
And to go off what DisruptedCapitalist up there said, the Noctua's and Be Quiets! are generally for people who don't want to use an AIO or custom loop because of added complexity and/or sound. Big low rpm fans make less noise then the pumps and fans that are normally used in watercooling.
iguanacus on
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Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
And in the case of the heatsink I pictured above, that cooler actually was intended to run passively without a fan as an option, which was why it was so ginormous. Gotta get all that surface area. I question the fanless efficacy, but there's a rationale to the madness.
You haven't lived until you've used an NH-D14. I've had mine for... years now and it's dead silent sitting right next to my computer desk even under 100% load. I use Thermalright TY-140s on it and it's basically the best heatsink ever.
Closed loop is more complicated, louder, and less effective than super high end air, so the few knuckle cuts you get on the fins during installation is worth it to me.
Impatience overcame me. Bought a Gigabyte GTX 1080 FE.
Good lord. 1440p / Ultra providing 90-120fps on Doom, Witcher III and Overwatch. Just got Far Cry 4 on the Steam Sale and am looking forward to seeing the results there too.
It is beautiful.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I was considering this one from Scythe or this one from Reeven. But then I saved about $100 on my MB/CPU combo and coupled with the fact that I new I'd be moving the case around I didn't want to risk the weight of the heatsink to cause the MB to flex or some other unwanted damage. Plus, I'd been more-or-less wanting to do liquid cooling ever since the first time I'd heard about it over twenty years ago.
Those lolhueg coolers have their place, but you need to be prepared for just how big they really are. Not every case will fit them and RAM height can be an issue.
I would worry about the damage/potential for motherboard cracking from an lolhueg heatsink like that, over time.
I don't think it would crack but the constant heating and cooling cycles from use would probably cause a lot of flex that doesn't seem like it would be a good thing over time.
They usually have quite a backplate. My NH-D14 was in use on an Ivy Bridge machine that ran pretty hot under load because Ivy was a painful chip to overclock and I never had any problems with it for 3 years. Motherboard did eventually die, but due to user inflicted water damage.
RAM height is an issue though, yea. You can't use anything with huge heat spreaders, pretty much locked into standard profile or lower. Still, that's not really a big deal since huge finned heatspreaders on RAM are silly.
They're certainly not for everyone, but if you're a fanatic about PC noise (I own 3 SSDs and a NAS because HDD spinup is annoying) while also wanting excellent performance under overclocked load, I think they have a nice spot.
Posts
4GB is what most would consider bare minimum these days, if that's all you can do, than you can live with it for a bit.
it isn't really that DDR2 is less popular but that it's old and not used anymore. Like anything old as time goes on it is harder to find the parts for it. I haven't used/seen a DDR2 computer in maybe 5 years, and that was when I replaced a 6-7 year old computer for my dad.
well yeah, by "windows OS" I figure he means an OS with a friendly GUI. If you mean Windows™, Raspberry uses ARM CPUs so no version of x86-based Windows will run on it without costly emulation.
There's actually a Windows IOT version, but as of right now it consists of not much more than a Windows 10 kernel that you can push specifically built apps to. The principle is pretty cool, and if you're someone already familiar with Visual Studio it could be a lot of fun.
Though sadly my damn sound card isn't detected correctly and I'm just about to buy a fucking Schitt Stack.
Hold the line!
I seem to remember reading a PC Gamer comparison on mid-range cards, and Zotac scoring fairly high. They tend to not have quite the same aggressive overclock options as Gigabyte, ASUS, or some of the EVGAs, but they do have a decent cooler that will allow the user to OC the card themselves.
:bigfrown:
Steam Me
An external DAC/Amp solves a lot of other issues too. I got a magni/modi setup for my laptop ages ago and use it with my desktop now, I have no complaints at all. Just take a second before you plug in your headphones after you turn on the amp, it has a click a couple seconds after it turns on. I don't know anything about the new magni/modi but imagine they are just as good if not better.
Yeah, me too. Currently wondering if backordering from Newegg would be any faster.
I've been thinking the same thing. I'm worried about them, magically, both becoming available before I can cancel the other pre-order. That's the only thing stopping me.
Steam Me
I've gotten heavily into Overwatch and am finding that my shitty old 400 DPI (iirc) Logitech MX310 just isn't cutting it, I feel like.
Doubt I'll manage to track down an Asus or Gigabyte board in the next month anyway since I'm just not very good at babysitting nowinstock, so July 25-August 9 sounds alright to me.
Razer Naga Hex is my recommendation. You can program the 6 buttons, too. If you don't like that many thumb buttons, I think there's a wires version of their wireless mouse.
....Mamba(?)
Both of those are well over the $30 upper limit, though. The best I could find was a $29.99 Logitech G300S on Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826197034
EDIT - otherwise, I would highly recommend Razer's Deathadder. That thing is my go-to FPS mouse (especially the older version of the Mamba, which was just a wireless version of the Deathadder).
Very Good.
― John Quincy Adams
If you can stretchyour budget to $50-60, the Razer Deathadder RGB Chroma is a solid mouse, feels great in the hand, works with most hand styles, and doesn't go fluffy with a ton of excess buttons which aren't necessary for FPS.
Zotac is basically the sister company of Sapphire. Sapphire does the AMD cards while Zotac does the Nvidia cards.
Looking for a Hardcore Fantasy Extraction Shooter? - Dark and Darker
Should I look into RMAing or replacing my motherboard? Or is there anything else I should try?
Wherever you may have used some sort of stand off, either for the MB in the case or for some sort of CPU cooler, check to ensure you didn't accidentally short any of the traces that may run nearby.
Remove all but the bare minimum needed to boot. As in, a single stick of RAM, one hard drive, etc. And ensure that they are all properly seated.
I got HAF 912. I got it because 1) I have a 932 and love it, and 2) I discovered my Noctua mega-cooler (DH-14) fits in it, so when I transplanted my old build, I didn't have to remove it.
Transplant complete. Plenty of room!
Rest of my new stuff arrives tomorrow, so I'm going to try to rope my daughter into helping me install it all in my 932.
--Mark Twain
(Pro tip: you can ask UPS to not deliver a package, and hold it for pickup instead. You can accept delivery of a package as long as you have a government-issued ID that matches the name OR the address. So, I mean, don't ship expensive hardware to the wrong place, but if you do, UPS can probably help you out.)
Next: let's see if my rig can do VR.
Penny Arcade Rockstar Social Club / This is why I despise cyclists
Ah, Noctua. So ugly, so blessedly quiet.
3DS: 0447-9966-6178
For similar or better results and much more pleasing to the eye I go for Be quiet!
I won this stupid thing at a LAN party many years back. I'm sure it wasn't even all that effective, but you bet your ass I stuffed it into the case somehow, regardless.
When the fuck do you need one of those?
Ghosted!
Really only if you're overclocking.
*EDIT*
And to go off what DisruptedCapitalist up there said, the Noctua's and Be Quiets! are generally for people who don't want to use an AIO or custom loop because of added complexity and/or sound. Big low rpm fans make less noise then the pumps and fans that are normally used in watercooling.
Closed loop is more complicated, louder, and less effective than super high end air, so the few knuckle cuts you get on the fins during installation is worth it to me.
Good lord. 1440p / Ultra providing 90-120fps on Doom, Witcher III and Overwatch. Just got Far Cry 4 on the Steam Sale and am looking forward to seeing the results there too.
It is beautiful.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Those lolhueg coolers have their place, but you need to be prepared for just how big they really are. Not every case will fit them and RAM height can be an issue.
I don't think it would crack but the constant heating and cooling cycles from use would probably cause a lot of flex that doesn't seem like it would be a good thing over time.
RAM height is an issue though, yea. You can't use anything with huge heat spreaders, pretty much locked into standard profile or lower. Still, that's not really a big deal since huge finned heatspreaders on RAM are silly.
They're certainly not for everyone, but if you're a fanatic about PC noise (I own 3 SSDs and a NAS because HDD spinup is annoying) while also wanting excellent performance under overclocked load, I think they have a nice spot.