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Ethernet over Power Devices and/or DIY Wiring [SOLVED]
FiggyFighter of the night manChampion of the sunRegistered Userregular
I need to get a wired internet connection down to my Xbox, but I don't want to drill through the walls/floor/ceiling. After extensive searching for clever ways to go through vents/outlets and whatnot, I've decided to try POE.
Is there a difference in the POE kits? Is this one going to work? The description mentions Internet Cameras as a common usage, so I'm thinking it might be a slightly different setup? Is it the same as this?
I'm imagining I can simply plug the one part up here into my router and into the wall. Then, I can plug the second part downstairs into my power bar and then into the Xbox. Is this how it works? No B&M stores around here carry these kits (or, really, have any idea what I'm talking about when I call) so I want to be sure before I order one online.
You don't need power over ethernet, you're not supplying the 360 with power via an ethernet cable. You need an ethernet-over-power setup, basically the opposite. The PoE system provides power and data through a cat5 wired connection (you'd still have to run a cat5 cable between the two units). The EoP system provides ethernet connectivity through your home's power outlets. Plug the base into an outlet and a cat5 cable running to your router, then plug the remote into an outlet near your 360, and a cat5 cable from it to your 360.
You don't need power over ethernet, you're not supplying the 360 with power via an ethernet cable. You need an ethernet-over-power setup, basically the opposite. The PoE system provides power and data through a cat5 wired connection (you'd still have to run a cat5 cable between the two units). The EoP system provides ethernet connectivity through your home's power outlets. Plug the base into an outlet and a cat5 cable running to your router, then plug the remote into an outlet near your 360, and a cat5 cable from it to your 360.
Ok perfect. I thought it was weird that the acronym was reversed. When I type "Ethernet over power" into google, the first result is for "Power over Ethernet," so I thought they did the same thing.
So where do I buy one of these kits then? All searches for "Ethernet over Power" give me the opposite.
You don't need power over ethernet, you're not supplying the 360 with power via an ethernet cable. You need an ethernet-over-power setup, basically the opposite. The PoE system provides power and data through a cat5 wired connection (you'd still have to run a cat5 cable between the two units). The EoP system provides ethernet connectivity through your home's power outlets. Plug the base into an outlet and a cat5 cable running to your router, then plug the remote into an outlet near your 360, and a cat5 cable from it to your 360.
Ok perfect. I thought it was weird that the acronym was reversed. When I type "Ethernet over power" into google, the first result is for "Power over Ethernet," so I thought they did the same thing.
So where do I buy one of these kits then? All searches for "Ethernet over Power" give me the opposite.
$100 seems to be about the right ballpark for powerline networking starter kits. Also let it be known that I hate powerline networking with the burning fury of a thousand suns.
Also, with new knowledge that you want Ethernet over Power, not Power over Ethernet, you may find a kit at a local B&M store.
PeregrineFalcon on
Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
0
FiggyFighter of the night manChampion of the sunRegistered Userregular
$100 seems to be about the right ballpark for powerline networking starter kits. Also let it be known that I hate powerline networking with the burning fury of a thousand suns.
Also, with new knowledge that you want Ethernet over Power, not Power over Ethernet, you may find a kit at a local B&M store.
Is there a better solution for me? I don't want to have my 360 wireless, with the main reason being I imagine media streaming over my network would be garbage. I also don't want to spend $100 on the 360 wireless adapter if I can spend it on the Powerline Adapter and get a faster connection.
I'm not as much against the running of the cable as I am about drilling holes everywhere or having cable showing running along the ceiling/walls/baseboards.
Unless there is a way to sneak one down there that I don't know of?
I'm not as much against the running of the cable as I am about drilling holes everywhere or having cable showing running along the ceiling/walls/baseboards.
Unless there is a way to sneak one down there that I don't know of?
You may be able to run it through your furnace return (I would not recommend running it in the heating ducts). Alternately, if you have a laptop or desktop with wireless capabilities you could use internet connection sharing. I'm working on getting this working with mine (or was until RROD two weeks ago). I've got the internet connection part okay but I'm still trying to get my pc to share media to the 360 via tversity.
I'm not as much against the running of the cable as I am about drilling holes everywhere or having cable showing running along the ceiling/walls/baseboards.
Unless there is a way to sneak one down there that I don't know of?
There's almost always a way to drill an inconspicuous hole. Find a cable that you can use to fish through - such as your TV cable - and use that one.
PeregrineFalcon on
Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
You may be able to run it through your furnace return (I would not recommend running it in the heating ducts). Alternately, if you have a laptop or desktop with wireless capabilities you could use internet connection sharing. I'm working on getting this working with mine (or was until RROD two weeks ago). I've got the internet connection part okay but I'm still trying to get my pc to share media to the 360 via tversity.
Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.
PeregrineFalcon on
Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.
Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.
underdonk on
Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.
Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.
If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)
Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.
Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.
If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)
Make sure you bring a coat. It's going to be breezy.
underdonk on
Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.
Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.
It's more a silly idea than anything - I'd probably get better results just putting an AP on the main floor and disabling the basement one's radio.
PeregrineFalcon on
Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.
Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.
If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)
Make sure you bring a coat. It's going to be breezy.
But at least I'll have plenty of airflow.
PeregrineFalcon on
Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.
Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.
If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)
Make sure you bring a coat. It's going to be breezy.
But at least I'll have plenty of airflow.
Ha! Good point - your APs will not overheat.
Which, BTW, holy WRT310N batman! I have dd-wrt running on one of these puppies and it's burning up!
underdonk on
Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
Which, BTW, holy WRT310N batman! I have dd-wrt running on one of these puppies and it's burning up!
Googling the image it looks like a shitty airflow design, built to look fancy rather than keep cool. Might do better vertically.
But yes, DD-WRT + overclocking the tits off a router + cranking up the wireless strength makes it nice and toasty.
What's crazy is that it's not overclocked nor is the wireless strength turned up, unless the default settings for this model in dd-wrt make the AP "more powerful" than the default firmware. This is also the same physical case design as the rest of their APs right now and the other's don't have this problem. I'm thinking there's a chip or chips that run hot in this model and they (Cisco) didn't compensate for that by providing any type of additional cooling (whether active or passive).
It's funny you mention mounting it vertically, as I've read elsewhere that mounting this model vertically helped cool the device. So I did. It's hanging on a wall, but it's still uncomfortably hot to the touch. Oh well, I guess I shouldn't worry about it unless I'm having problems with the thing (which I'm not), but it's rare to find a consumer electronics device that runs this hot that doesn't at some point fail early on in its life.
underdonk on
Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
0
FiggyFighter of the night manChampion of the sunRegistered Userregular
edited September 2009
In theory, if I put a new hole in the wall underneath/alongside an existing outlet (Let's say, a phone jack), would that provide me with a clear drop between the studs to the floor below, or is there some sort of barrier between floors?
The office (where the modem/router is) is one floor up and one room over from where the Xbox is. Eventually the Xbox will be going another floor down, to the finished basement, as soon as we buy a second HD TV and turn that into the "entertainment" area, so that would just mean running it down a little further.
I imagine myself fishing this thing down, but isn't there all sorts of shit that's going to be in the way? I've done wiring through air returns before, but there are no conveniently placed returns in the rooms involved here.
A few years ago, I tried using one of those phone line extenders that works over power lines. Sort of like ethernet over power, but for a phone jack? How well did it work? There was so much static on the line that two tin cans tied together with a piece of string might have been a more reliable option. If Powerline networking is anything like this, you want to avoid it like the plague.
Shadowrunner on
0
FiggyFighter of the night manChampion of the sunRegistered Userregular
edited September 2009
I was at Futureshop picking up a couple of surge protectors, and I decided to take a stroll through their networking aisle. Lo and behold, sitting alone at the end of the aisle on the bottom shelf, I see the D-Link Powerline HD Starter Kit, on "clearance" for $99.97.
I snatched it up, and so far it's working perfectly. I tried streaming a few videos from my PC to the 360, and it seems to work fine. One had a "loading" bar for about 4-5 seconds, which has never happened before, but other than that everything seems good.
In theory, if I put a new hole in the wall underneath/alongside an existing outlet (Let's say, a phone jack), would that provide me with a clear drop between the studs to the floor below, or is there some sort of barrier between floors?
The office (where the modem/router is) is one floor up and one room over from where the Xbox is. Eventually the Xbox will be going another floor down, to the finished basement, as soon as we buy a second HD TV and turn that into the "entertainment" area, so that would just mean running it down a little further.
I imagine myself fishing this thing down, but isn't there all sorts of shit that's going to be in the way? I've done wiring through air returns before, but there are no conveniently placed returns in the rooms involved here.
I know this is a solved problem, but for future information... there shouldn't be but I have run in to it. Your best bet dealing with that is to tie a looooong string (I've used cheap speaker wire) to the wire that is already run, and get a nice string-pull system happening.
Improvolone on
Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
Posts
No.
Ok perfect. I thought it was weird that the acronym was reversed. When I type "Ethernet over power" into google, the first result is for "Power over Ethernet," so I thought they did the same thing.
So where do I buy one of these kits then? All searches for "Ethernet over Power" give me the opposite.
HomePlug, or Powerline are some keywords to use.
http://accessories.dell.com/sna/products/Wireless_WiFi/productdetail.aspx?c=ca&l=en&s=dhs&cs=cadhs1&sku=A2793371
There's also this NETGEAR one at NCIX for $85:
http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=28386&vpn=XE102GNA&manufacture=Netgear
$100 seems to be about the right ballpark for powerline networking starter kits. Also let it be known that I hate powerline networking with the burning fury of a thousand suns.
Also, with new knowledge that you want Ethernet over Power, not Power over Ethernet, you may find a kit at a local B&M store.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
Is there a better solution for me? I don't want to have my 360 wireless, with the main reason being I imagine media streaming over my network would be garbage. I also don't want to spend $100 on the 360 wireless adapter if I can spend it on the Powerline Adapter and get a faster connection.
I'm not as much against the running of the cable as I am about drilling holes everywhere or having cable showing running along the ceiling/walls/baseboards.
Unless there is a way to sneak one down there that I don't know of?
You may be able to run it through your furnace return (I would not recommend running it in the heating ducts). Alternately, if you have a laptop or desktop with wireless capabilities you could use internet connection sharing. I'm working on getting this working with mine (or was until RROD two weeks ago). I've got the internet connection part okay but I'm still trying to get my pc to share media to the 360 via tversity.
There's almost always a way to drill an inconspicuous hole. Find a cable that you can use to fish through - such as your TV cable - and use that one.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
Wired from your router to an access point.
Wireless from the access point to the bridge (by your xbox).
Wired from the bridge to your xbox.
Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
I've heard mixed reviews for powerline ethernet, it really depends on how efficient the electrical wiring in your house is.
Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.
If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)
Make sure you bring a coat. It's going to be breezy.
It's more a silly idea than anything - I'd probably get better results just putting an AP on the main floor and disabling the basement one's radio.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
But at least I'll have plenty of airflow.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
Ha! Good point - your APs will not overheat.
Which, BTW, holy WRT310N batman! I have dd-wrt running on one of these puppies and it's burning up!
Googling the image it looks like a shitty airflow design, built to look fancy rather than keep cool. Might do better vertically.
But yes, DD-WRT + overclocking the tits off a router + cranking up the wireless strength makes it nice and toasty.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
What's crazy is that it's not overclocked nor is the wireless strength turned up, unless the default settings for this model in dd-wrt make the AP "more powerful" than the default firmware. This is also the same physical case design as the rest of their APs right now and the other's don't have this problem. I'm thinking there's a chip or chips that run hot in this model and they (Cisco) didn't compensate for that by providing any type of additional cooling (whether active or passive).
It's funny you mention mounting it vertically, as I've read elsewhere that mounting this model vertically helped cool the device. So I did. It's hanging on a wall, but it's still uncomfortably hot to the touch. Oh well, I guess I shouldn't worry about it unless I'm having problems with the thing (which I'm not), but it's rare to find a consumer electronics device that runs this hot that doesn't at some point fail early on in its life.
The office (where the modem/router is) is one floor up and one room over from where the Xbox is. Eventually the Xbox will be going another floor down, to the finished basement, as soon as we buy a second HD TV and turn that into the "entertainment" area, so that would just mean running it down a little further.
I imagine myself fishing this thing down, but isn't there all sorts of shit that's going to be in the way? I've done wiring through air returns before, but there are no conveniently placed returns in the rooms involved here.
I snatched it up, and so far it's working perfectly. I tried streaming a few videos from my PC to the 360, and it seems to work fine. One had a "loading" bar for about 4-5 seconds, which has never happened before, but other than that everything seems good.
Thanks for the advice guys.