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Ethernet over Power Devices and/or DIY Wiring [SOLVED]

FiggyFiggy Fighter of the night manChampion of the sunRegistered User regular
edited September 2009 in Help / Advice Forum
I need to get a wired internet connection down to my Xbox, but I don't want to drill through the walls/floor/ceiling. After extensive searching for clever ways to go through vents/outlets and whatnot, I've decided to try POE.

Is there a difference in the POE kits? Is this one going to work? The description mentions Internet Cameras as a common usage, so I'm thinking it might be a slightly different setup? Is it the same as this?

I'm imagining I can simply plug the one part up here into my router and into the wall. Then, I can plug the second part downstairs into my power bar and then into the Xbox. Is this how it works? No B&M stores around here carry these kits (or, really, have any idea what I'm talking about when I call) so I want to be sure before I order one online.

XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment
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Posts

  • underdonkunderdonk __BANNED USERS regular
    edited September 2009
    What are you trying to provide power to?

    underdonk on
    Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    You don't need power over ethernet, you're not supplying the 360 with power via an ethernet cable. You need an ethernet-over-power setup, basically the opposite. The PoE system provides power and data through a cat5 wired connection (you'd still have to run a cat5 cable between the two units). The EoP system provides ethernet connectivity through your home's power outlets. Plug the base into an outlet and a cat5 cable running to your router, then plug the remote into an outlet near your 360, and a cat5 cable from it to your 360.

    matt has a problem on
    nibXTE7.png
  • PirateJonPirateJon Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    Is this how it works?

    No.

    PirateJon on
    all perfectionists are mediocre in their own eyes
  • FiggyFiggy Fighter of the night man Champion of the sunRegistered User regular
    edited September 2009
    You don't need power over ethernet, you're not supplying the 360 with power via an ethernet cable. You need an ethernet-over-power setup, basically the opposite. The PoE system provides power and data through a cat5 wired connection (you'd still have to run a cat5 cable between the two units). The EoP system provides ethernet connectivity through your home's power outlets. Plug the base into an outlet and a cat5 cable running to your router, then plug the remote into an outlet near your 360, and a cat5 cable from it to your 360.

    Ok perfect. I thought it was weird that the acronym was reversed. When I type "Ethernet over power" into google, the first result is for "Power over Ethernet," so I thought they did the same thing.

    So where do I buy one of these kits then? All searches for "Ethernet over Power" give me the opposite.

    Figgy on
    XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment
  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    Figgy wrote: »
    You don't need power over ethernet, you're not supplying the 360 with power via an ethernet cable. You need an ethernet-over-power setup, basically the opposite. The PoE system provides power and data through a cat5 wired connection (you'd still have to run a cat5 cable between the two units). The EoP system provides ethernet connectivity through your home's power outlets. Plug the base into an outlet and a cat5 cable running to your router, then plug the remote into an outlet near your 360, and a cat5 cable from it to your 360.

    Ok perfect. I thought it was weird that the acronym was reversed. When I type "Ethernet over power" into google, the first result is for "Power over Ethernet," so I thought they did the same thing.

    So where do I buy one of these kits then? All searches for "Ethernet over Power" give me the opposite.
    http://www.pcconnection.com/IPA/Shop/Product/Detail.htm?sku=6381051&oext=1038A&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=6381051

    matt has a problem on
    nibXTE7.png
  • DaenrisDaenris Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    http://www.homeplug.org/products

    HomePlug, or Powerline are some keywords to use.

    Daenris on
  • PeregrineFalconPeregrineFalcon Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    The buzzword you want is "Powerline Network" - you unfortunately just missed a deal on these guys for CDN$55 (my memory tells me you're a Canucklehead, correct me if it's wrong) which is now $100:
    http://accessories.dell.com/sna/products/Wireless_WiFi/productdetail.aspx?c=ca&l=en&s=dhs&cs=cadhs1&sku=A2793371

    There's also this NETGEAR one at NCIX for $85:
    http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=28386&vpn=XE102GNA&manufacture=Netgear

    $100 seems to be about the right ballpark for powerline networking starter kits. Also let it be known that I hate powerline networking with the burning fury of a thousand suns.

    Also, with new knowledge that you want Ethernet over Power, not Power over Ethernet, you may find a kit at a local B&M store.

    PeregrineFalcon on
    Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
    Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
  • FiggyFiggy Fighter of the night man Champion of the sunRegistered User regular
    edited September 2009
    The buzzword you want is "Powerline Network" - you unfortunately just missed a deal on these guys for CDN$55 (my memory tells me you're a Canucklehead, correct me if it's wrong) which is now $100:
    http://accessories.dell.com/sna/products/Wireless_WiFi/productdetail.aspx?c=ca&l=en&s=dhs&cs=cadhs1&sku=A2793371

    There's also this NETGEAR one at NCIX for $85:
    http://ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=28386&vpn=XE102GNA&manufacture=Netgear

    $100 seems to be about the right ballpark for powerline networking starter kits. Also let it be known that I hate powerline networking with the burning fury of a thousand suns.

    Also, with new knowledge that you want Ethernet over Power, not Power over Ethernet, you may find a kit at a local B&M store.

    Is there a better solution for me? I don't want to have my 360 wireless, with the main reason being I imagine media streaming over my network would be garbage. I also don't want to spend $100 on the 360 wireless adapter if I can spend it on the Powerline Adapter and get a faster connection.

    Figgy on
    XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment
  • ImprovoloneImprovolone Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    Why are you against running cable?

    Improvolone on
    Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
  • FiggyFiggy Fighter of the night man Champion of the sunRegistered User regular
    edited September 2009
    Why are you against running cable?

    I'm not as much against the running of the cable as I am about drilling holes everywhere or having cable showing running along the ceiling/walls/baseboards.

    Unless there is a way to sneak one down there that I don't know of?

    Figgy on
    XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment
  • edited September 2009
    Figgy wrote: »
    Why are you against running cable?

    I'm not as much against the running of the cable as I am about drilling holes everywhere or having cable showing running along the ceiling/walls/baseboards.

    Unless there is a way to sneak one down there that I don't know of?

    You may be able to run it through your furnace return (I would not recommend running it in the heating ducts). Alternately, if you have a laptop or desktop with wireless capabilities you could use internet connection sharing. I'm working on getting this working with mine (or was until RROD two weeks ago). I've got the internet connection part okay but I'm still trying to get my pc to share media to the 360 via tversity.

    Richard M. Nixon on
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  • PeregrineFalconPeregrineFalcon Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    Figgy wrote: »
    Why are you against running cable?

    I'm not as much against the running of the cable as I am about drilling holes everywhere or having cable showing running along the ceiling/walls/baseboards.

    Unless there is a way to sneak one down there that I don't know of?

    There's almost always a way to drill an inconspicuous hole. Find a cable that you can use to fish through - such as your TV cable - and use that one.

    PeregrineFalcon on
    Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
    Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
  • SeñorAmorSeñorAmor !!! Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    What about wireless?

    Wired from your router to an access point.
    Wireless from the access point to the bridge (by your xbox).
    Wired from the bridge to your xbox.

    SeñorAmor on
  • underdonkunderdonk __BANNED USERS regular
    edited September 2009
    underdonk on
    Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
  • PeregrineFalconPeregrineFalcon Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    You may be able to run it through your furnace return (I would not recommend running it in the heating ducts). Alternately, if you have a laptop or desktop with wireless capabilities you could use internet connection sharing. I'm working on getting this working with mine (or was until RROD two weeks ago). I've got the internet connection part okay but I'm still trying to get my pc to share media to the 360 via tversity.

    Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.

    PeregrineFalcon on
    Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
    Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
  • tofutofu Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    You could always buy a repeater.

    I've heard mixed reviews for powerline ethernet, it really depends on how efficient the electrical wiring in your house is.

    tofu on
  • underdonkunderdonk __BANNED USERS regular
    edited September 2009
    Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.

    Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.

    underdonk on
    Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
  • edited September 2009
    underdonk wrote: »
    Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.

    Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.

    If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)

    Richard M. Nixon on
    chevy.jpgsteve.jpgmartin.jpg
  • underdonkunderdonk __BANNED USERS regular
    edited September 2009
    underdonk wrote: »
    Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.

    Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.

    If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)

    Make sure you bring a coat. It's going to be breezy.

    underdonk on
    Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
  • PeregrineFalconPeregrineFalcon Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    underdonk wrote: »
    Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.

    Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.

    It's more a silly idea than anything - I'd probably get better results just putting an AP on the main floor and disabling the basement one's radio.

    PeregrineFalcon on
    Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
    Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
  • PeregrineFalconPeregrineFalcon Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    underdonk wrote: »
    underdonk wrote: »
    Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.

    Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.

    If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)

    Make sure you bring a coat. It's going to be breezy.

    But at least I'll have plenty of airflow. :D

    PeregrineFalcon on
    Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
    Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
  • underdonkunderdonk __BANNED USERS regular
    edited September 2009
    underdonk wrote: »
    underdonk wrote: »
    Amusingly enough given the path this thread took, I've considered using PoE and mounting APs just inside the return-air ducts for my house. Upstairs gets lousy signal, since my AP/router is currently located in the basement.

    Putting the APs inside of a metal box (return-air ducts) upstairs probably won't give you any better reception than having the device(s) located in the basement. YMMV, but this has certainly been my experience.

    If they're in the same metal box it may help to filter out some interference (poor man's faraday cage)

    Make sure you bring a coat. It's going to be breezy.

    But at least I'll have plenty of airflow. :D

    Ha! Good point - your APs will not overheat.

    Which, BTW, holy WRT310N batman! I have dd-wrt running on one of these puppies and it's burning up!

    underdonk on
    Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
  • PeregrineFalconPeregrineFalcon Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    underdonk wrote: »
    Ha! Good point - your APs will not overheat.

    Which, BTW, holy WRT310N batman! I have dd-wrt running on one of these puppies and it's burning up!

    Googling the image it looks like a shitty airflow design, built to look fancy rather than keep cool. Might do better vertically.

    But yes, DD-WRT + overclocking the tits off a router + cranking up the wireless strength makes it nice and toasty. :D

    PeregrineFalcon on
    Looking for a DX:HR OnLive code for my kid brother.
    Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
  • underdonkunderdonk __BANNED USERS regular
    edited September 2009
    underdonk wrote: »
    Ha! Good point - your APs will not overheat.

    Which, BTW, holy WRT310N batman! I have dd-wrt running on one of these puppies and it's burning up!

    Googling the image it looks like a shitty airflow design, built to look fancy rather than keep cool. Might do better vertically.

    But yes, DD-WRT + overclocking the tits off a router + cranking up the wireless strength makes it nice and toasty. :D

    What's crazy is that it's not overclocked nor is the wireless strength turned up, unless the default settings for this model in dd-wrt make the AP "more powerful" than the default firmware. This is also the same physical case design as the rest of their APs right now and the other's don't have this problem. I'm thinking there's a chip or chips that run hot in this model and they (Cisco) didn't compensate for that by providing any type of additional cooling (whether active or passive).

    It's funny you mention mounting it vertically, as I've read elsewhere that mounting this model vertically helped cool the device. So I did. It's hanging on a wall, but it's still uncomfortably hot to the touch. Oh well, I guess I shouldn't worry about it unless I'm having problems with the thing (which I'm not), but it's rare to find a consumer electronics device that runs this hot that doesn't at some point fail early on in its life.

    underdonk on
    Back in the day, bucko, we just had an A and a B button... and we liked it.
  • FiggyFiggy Fighter of the night man Champion of the sunRegistered User regular
    edited September 2009
    In theory, if I put a new hole in the wall underneath/alongside an existing outlet (Let's say, a phone jack), would that provide me with a clear drop between the studs to the floor below, or is there some sort of barrier between floors?

    The office (where the modem/router is) is one floor up and one room over from where the Xbox is. Eventually the Xbox will be going another floor down, to the finished basement, as soon as we buy a second HD TV and turn that into the "entertainment" area, so that would just mean running it down a little further.

    I imagine myself fishing this thing down, but isn't there all sorts of shit that's going to be in the way? I've done wiring through air returns before, but there are no conveniently placed returns in the rooms involved here.

    Figgy on
    XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment
  • ShadowrunnerShadowrunner Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    A few years ago, I tried using one of those phone line extenders that works over power lines. Sort of like ethernet over power, but for a phone jack? How well did it work? There was so much static on the line that two tin cans tied together with a piece of string might have been a more reliable option. If Powerline networking is anything like this, you want to avoid it like the plague.

    Shadowrunner on
  • FiggyFiggy Fighter of the night man Champion of the sunRegistered User regular
    edited September 2009
    I was at Futureshop picking up a couple of surge protectors, and I decided to take a stroll through their networking aisle. Lo and behold, sitting alone at the end of the aisle on the bottom shelf, I see the D-Link Powerline HD Starter Kit, on "clearance" for $99.97.

    I snatched it up, and so far it's working perfectly. I tried streaming a few videos from my PC to the 360, and it seems to work fine. One had a "loading" bar for about 4-5 seconds, which has never happened before, but other than that everything seems good.

    Thanks for the advice guys.

    Figgy on
    XBL : Figment3 · SteamID : Figment
  • ImprovoloneImprovolone Registered User regular
    edited September 2009
    Figgy wrote: »
    In theory, if I put a new hole in the wall underneath/alongside an existing outlet (Let's say, a phone jack), would that provide me with a clear drop between the studs to the floor below, or is there some sort of barrier between floors?

    The office (where the modem/router is) is one floor up and one room over from where the Xbox is. Eventually the Xbox will be going another floor down, to the finished basement, as soon as we buy a second HD TV and turn that into the "entertainment" area, so that would just mean running it down a little further.

    I imagine myself fishing this thing down, but isn't there all sorts of shit that's going to be in the way? I've done wiring through air returns before, but there are no conveniently placed returns in the rooms involved here.
    I know this is a solved problem, but for future information... there shouldn't be but I have run in to it. Your best bet dealing with that is to tie a looooong string (I've used cheap speaker wire) to the wire that is already run, and get a nice string-pull system happening.

    Improvolone on
    Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
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