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So I think the battery in my Minolta srT 101 is dieing cause the meter isnt reading light correctly. Is it possible to use my Canon Rebel G camera as a light meter if I match up the ISO, or would the differing lenses fuck it up royally? I'd use the Canon to shoot but I actually have a roll in there already.
Do a barrel roll.
Tini on
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MustangArbiter of Unpopular OpinionsRegistered Userregular
edited March 2010
You would've been better asking this in the photo or Q&D thread. New threads are for art only.
EDIT: Also it would work to an extent, but not exceptionally well. You'd be better off buying a dedicated handheld light meter.
You should have a very reasonable approximation if you match your exposure settings and ISO.
I doubt the light transmissive properties of your lenses will be wildly different. What will affect the reading is how open the lenses are. If you're using a f/2.8 lens on one camera you won't have the same amount of light available on your f/3.5 lens on the other camera. You'll be restricted by the most open f/stop on the metering camera, but you can compensate with shutter speed if you're keen on the math.
If your exposure is off within one stop it's most likely not going to ruin the shot. Film has a broad / wide / large dynamic range. Be aware of how the metering is weighted on the Canon and what you want to meter for, however.
Averaging an entire frame when really all you needed was a spot metering for a highlight won't give you the best results. Turning your Canon into a spot meter and learning to expose from a single reading, whether in the highlights, shadow or mid-tones, is a good exercise.
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EDIT: Also it would work to an extent, but not exceptionally well. You'd be better off buying a dedicated handheld light meter.
I doubt the light transmissive properties of your lenses will be wildly different. What will affect the reading is how open the lenses are. If you're using a f/2.8 lens on one camera you won't have the same amount of light available on your f/3.5 lens on the other camera. You'll be restricted by the most open f/stop on the metering camera, but you can compensate with shutter speed if you're keen on the math.
If your exposure is off within one stop it's most likely not going to ruin the shot. Film has a broad / wide / large dynamic range. Be aware of how the metering is weighted on the Canon and what you want to meter for, however.
Averaging an entire frame when really all you needed was a spot metering for a highlight won't give you the best results. Turning your Canon into a spot meter and learning to expose from a single reading, whether in the highlights, shadow or mid-tones, is a good exercise.