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I should have been more clear, it was 1080p versus non 1080p content side by side at CES. Even in the store I work at, we have a specific Sony Hard drive loaded with content in 1080p and its not worth it to spend the extra cash for 1080p.
That might partially be because you prefer plasma as a display tech. The premium for a 1080p plasma is a great deal higher than the price difference on LCD or DLP going to 1080p.
As to whether it's worth it, I've looked at two 46" Samsung LCDs next to each other, one 720p and one 1080p (both using 1080p source), and I could tell the difference with the naked eye out to about six feet. There was visible "screen door". Obviously I couldn't truly blind test, but I feel pretty confident that I could've looked at either one in isolation and accurately determined which resolution it was.
Of course, very, very few people watch TV from that distance. I do (very small living room), so for me 1080p matters a bit. For most people, it probably doesn't.
Just be careful where you and and what youre watching. Its not uncommon for co-workers of mine to put composite cables on one tv and HDMI on another to show a picture difference that has nothing to do with resolution. Personally, Ive worked with flat panels for 4 years now full time, and I cant tell the difference. The only 1080p stuff out there is Blu-Ray and PS3 anyways, and side by side, i would say the only difference I can see is in some text and the aliasing that goes with it.
Rear Projection DLP Best Overall: Toshiba
Best RP for avoiding Rainbow: Sony
Toshiba 56HM66 DLP at $1800 was the CR Best Buy
Lemme know if you want models.
That Toshiba, is it 1080p?
1 - Toshiba 62HM196 $2500 - 1080p
2 - Toshiba Cinema Series 62MX196 $2900 - 1080p
3 - Toshiba 56HMX96 $2300 - NO 1080p
4 - Toshiba 56HM66 $1800 - NO 1080p - CR BEST BUY
Thanks for the info. I think I'm probably going to go with the JVC at Costco, given it's the best deal I can find on that size TV, with 1080p, and their return policy is pretty much second-to-none, as best I can tell...so even if the JVC sucks, I can just return it.
Rear Projection DLP Best Overall: Toshiba
Best RP for avoiding Rainbow: Sony
Toshiba 56HM66 DLP at $1800 was the CR Best Buy
Lemme know if you want models.
That Toshiba, is it 1080p?
1 - Toshiba 62HM196 $2500 - 1080p
2 - Toshiba Cinema Series 62MX196 $2900 - 1080p
3 - Toshiba 56HMX96 $2300 - NO 1080p
4 - Toshiba 56HM66 $1800 - NO 1080p - CR BEST BUY
I personally find Samsung to be the better DLP. But then Samsung has been very good to me in the past so I may be a bit biased.
That and I tend to disagree with CR for some reason. I don't know why, but I tend to get angry every time I try to read it when its talking about something I actually know about.
Personally, Ive worked with flat panels for 4 years now full time, and I cant tell the difference. The only 1080p stuff out there is Blu-Ray and PS3 anyways, and side by side, i would say the only difference I can see is in some text and the aliasing that goes with it.
Except there's plenty of 1080i stuff out there too, and if you don't have 1080p you have 720p (if you're talking digital sets, not CRT).
NBC, CBS, Discovery, HBO, Showtime, Cinemax, and others.... all broadcast in 1080i. If you only have a 720p set you're missing over half the resolution.
Rear Projection DLP Best Overall: Toshiba
Best RP for avoiding Rainbow: Sony
Toshiba 56HM66 DLP at $1800 was the CR Best Buy
Lemme know if you want models.
That Toshiba, is it 1080p?
1 - Toshiba 62HM196 $2500 - 1080p
2 - Toshiba Cinema Series 62MX196 $2900 - 1080p
3 - Toshiba 56HMX96 $2300 - NO 1080p
4 - Toshiba 56HM66 $1800 - NO 1080p - CR BEST BUY
Thanks for the info. I think I'm probably going to go with the JVC at Costco, given it's the best deal I can find on that size TV, with 1080p, and their return policy is pretty much second-to-none, as best I can tell...so even if the JVC sucks, I can just return it.
#5 - JVC HD-56FN97 $2500 - 1080p
Picture Quality: Standard Def and HD not as good as Toshiba. DVD (1080p) equal. Better sound quality on JVC. Remote control is not easy to use.
...
#12 - JVC HD-56G787 $2000 - NO 1080p, LCoS not DLP
Personally, Ive worked with flat panels for 4 years now full time, and I cant tell the difference. The only 1080p stuff out there is Blu-Ray and PS3 anyways, and side by side, i would say the only difference I can see is in some text and the aliasing that goes with it.
Except there's plenty of 1080i stuff out there too, and if you don't have 1080p you have 720p (if you're talking digital sets, not CRT).
NBC, CBS, Discovery, HBO, Showtime, Cinemax, and others.... all broadcast in 1080i. If you only have a 720p set you're missing over half the resolution.
From what I have seen DLP looks the best quality to me, at least in 1080p. Also, it is generally somewhat inexpensive relative to its size...because you cant hang it on your wall.
Just be careful where you and and what youre watching. Its not uncommon for co-workers of mine to put composite cables on one tv and HDMI on another to show a picture difference that has nothing to do with resolution. Personally, Ive worked with flat panels for 4 years now full time, and I cant tell the difference. The only 1080p stuff out there is Blu-Ray and PS3 anyways, and side by side, i would say the only difference I can see is in some text and the aliasing that goes with it.
Both displays were hooked up with HDMI. If the only difference you can see is in some aliasing on text, then you aren't close enough. I could see the spaces between pixels out to at least four feet, and in some conditions (e.g. the dark display area of the store), out further. At "standard" viewing distances (8 feet and more), the difference would be negligible on anything smaller than 60" or so. But when displays occupy a lot of your visual field, the difference between 720p and 1080p is very visible.
As I said, most folks don't do that, so for them it doesn't matter.
Liabe Brave on
My name is Christian Smith.
"I just want people to see my action heart."
NBC, CBS, Discovery, HBO, Showtime, Cinemax, and others.... all broadcast in 1080i. If you only have a 720p set you're missing over half the resolution.
720x1280=921600
1080i is 1920x1080 (2073600 pixels) at 30 frames/sec (actually, 60 fields/sec, interlaced).
1080p is the same thing, only 60 full frames/sec, progressive-scan.
SXRD is Sony's brand name for LCoS - "Liquid Crystal on Silicon". It's a 3-chip projection design, sort of a hybrid between LCD and DLP.
I'd like to get an HDTV used mainly for video games. I'd like a smaller widescreen tv, from 20" to 30". If it's 720p instead of 1080i/1080p that's cool. I'm looking for something that's on the cheaper side.
Anyone have any suggestions, price range ideas, or place to look?
If you happen to own the world's best DLP then more power to you, but I've seen MANY, and I mean MANY DLP sets that start to look like crap when I take a step or two to the side. Obviously it varies a lot depending on brand and model, but from the consumer grade ones I've seen, at least 90% of them start to look bad when even just a little off center.
Maybe if you look at shitty TVs, they might have a problem, but DLP offers of a viewing range of roughly 100 degrees before there's a noticeable drop in brightness. This is standard, not something you find in "the world's best DLP". Either you're exaggerating a whole lot with your "step to the side" schtick, you weren't looking at DLPs, or you managed to find a special brand of DLP that was able to somehow fuck up the technology.
ElJeffe on
I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
DLP viewing angles aren't that bad. You must be thinking of the old RPTV (CRT) sets. Even then, the side-to-side angles are decent enough to allow a few people in a normal sized room to watch TV. It's the up-down angle that is more critical. You pretty much have to be sitting at the proper height, but who the hells gets up and wanders around the room while watching TV anyway? If you need to do that (or maybe you're installing a HDTV in a bar or airport lobby or something...) then yeah, get a plasma.
With my discount and a gift card i can get this TV for about 1400$
Is this TV worth it?anyone know how its 1080p compares to the Sony and Sharp LCDs?
Samsungs generally have very good video quality. There may be reliability issues, so you'd want to check around on the net to see what people are saying about it.
ElJeffe on
I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
I've been to Best Buy just to stare at this TV I don't know how many times, and the only thing that even comes close to touching it is the XBR2/3 Series from Sony. At the ridiculous price difference, (can almost be 2K for the larger models) I couldn't justify the XBR TVs.
For all the info you could ever want on the 4095D or its big brother, the 4096, check out Audio Video Science Forums: Samsung LN-S4696D/LN-S4096D. The 4095 and the 4096 are nearly identical except for a few features. (CableCARD, etc.)
I'd definitely go LCD over the Plasma and DLPs. Though the contrast ratios are better on plasma, 6000 and 7000:1 is nothing to cringe at. Additionally, the glare on Plasmas can be a showstopper when playing games, and the viewing angles on DLPs along with bulb issues etc. can create issues for some.
Anyhow, give the AVS Forums a look and see what you think. Hope this helps, good luck!
I've been to Best Buy just to stare at this TV I don't know how many times, and the only thing that even comes close to touching it is the XBR2/3 Series from Sony. At the ridiculous price difference, (can almost be 2K for the larger models) I couldn't justify the XBR TVs.
For all the info you could ever want on the 4095D or its big brother, the 4096, check out Audio Video Science Forums: Samsung LN-S4696D/LN-S4096D. The 4095 and the 4096 are nearly identical except for a few features. (CableCARD, etc.)
I'd definitely go LCD over the Plasma and DLPs. Though the contrast ratios are better on plasma, 6000 and 7000:1 is nothing to cringe at. Additionally, the glare on Plasmas can be a showstopper when playing games, and the viewing angles on DLPs along with bulb issues etc. can create issues for some.
Anyhow, give the AVS Forums a look and see what you think. Hope this helps, good luck!
Seriously, if it hasn't been mentioned now, it should be mentioned again. AVSForums are THE place for information. So many video/audiophiles on there that are very helpful.
precisionk on
0
VariableMouth CongressStroke Me Lady FameRegistered Userregular
edited February 2007
Of all the research I've done, both through checking things out myself and reading AVS, I decided when the time comes we are definitely getting a Samsung DLP... and for my room, when I can afford it, I'm getting a 32 inch Samsung LCD. They get the most universally high ratings for quality, and while budget shopping is necessary sometimes, I don't feel a desire to get a lower quality tv no matter the price.
Seriously, if it hasn't been mentioned now, it should be mentioned again. AVSForums are THE place for information. So many video/audiophiles on there that are very helpful.
Just make sure you take note of the post dates.
When they say "It's not in stores yet, till the end of the summer" and the post is from June 2006, you should disregard the poster.
So I'm in the minority when I ask this question: I'm looking for a 20"-32" HDTV to play 360 on. I don't know much about viewing options and what's available at this size, but I do know that I'm constrained by price.
Is it worth dropping $400-800 on a 32" to play 360? Or should I just stick to my old CRT?
breakz on
Now Playing - GRAW, FFIII DS, Ninja Gaiden Black, Phoenix Wright
Most buyers REGRET not buying the larger TV, so buy the largest you can afford; keep in mind most places have a 0% card to distribute the cost. If you're really restrained, get the 32-inch Olevia, but I'd find a way to splurge.
By the way, gang - you can always go to the magazine rack at B&N or your local supermarket and just look at a Consumer Reports for free (they aren't shrink-wrapped), though they do appreciate your $$$upport.
So I'm in the minority when I ask this question: I'm looking for a 20"-32" HDTV to play 360 on. I don't know much about viewing options and what's available at this size, but I do know that I'm constrained by price.
Is it worth dropping $400-800 on a 32" to play 360? Or should I just stick to my old CRT?
My understanding (mind you, I haven't seen the 360 on anything but in-store displays and a friend's CRT) is that it looks a *LOT* better on an HDTV, even a smallish one, than it will on a CRT.
Posts
Just be careful where you and and what youre watching. Its not uncommon for co-workers of mine to put composite cables on one tv and HDMI on another to show a picture difference that has nothing to do with resolution. Personally, Ive worked with flat panels for 4 years now full time, and I cant tell the difference. The only 1080p stuff out there is Blu-Ray and PS3 anyways, and side by side, i would say the only difference I can see is in some text and the aliasing that goes with it.
1 - Toshiba 62HM196 $2500 - 1080p
2 - Toshiba Cinema Series 62MX196 $2900 - 1080p
3 - Toshiba 56HMX96 $2300 - NO 1080p
4 - Toshiba 56HM66 $1800 - NO 1080p - CR BEST BUY
Thanks for the info. I think I'm probably going to go with the JVC at Costco, given it's the best deal I can find on that size TV, with 1080p, and their return policy is pretty much second-to-none, as best I can tell...so even if the JVC sucks, I can just return it.
I personally find Samsung to be the better DLP. But then Samsung has been very good to me in the past so I may be a bit biased.
That and I tend to disagree with CR for some reason. I don't know why, but I tend to get angry every time I try to read it when its talking about something I actually know about.
NBC, CBS, Discovery, HBO, Showtime, Cinemax, and others.... all broadcast in 1080i. If you only have a 720p set you're missing over half the resolution.
#5 - JVC HD-56FN97 $2500 - 1080p
Picture Quality: Standard Def and HD not as good as Toshiba. DVD (1080p) equal. Better sound quality on JVC. Remote control is not easy to use.
...
#12 - JVC HD-56G787 $2000 - NO 1080p, LCoS not DLP
No Samsungs were listed/tested.
I know Toshiba fixed the problem (kind of), but when I was shopping a year ago for the plasma, I would have these comments on each of thsoe 4 tvs
1. Clay Face/Game Lag
2. Clay Face/Game Lag
3. Clay Face/Game Lag
4. Clay Face/Game Lag
wut?
540x1920=1036800
720x1280=921600
O_o ????? o_O
Batman?
its so pretty!
Both displays were hooked up with HDMI. If the only difference you can see is in some aliasing on text, then you aren't close enough. I could see the spaces between pixels out to at least four feet, and in some conditions (e.g. the dark display area of the store), out further. At "standard" viewing distances (8 feet and more), the difference would be negligible on anything smaller than 60" or so. But when displays occupy a lot of your visual field, the difference between 720p and 1080p is very visible.
As I said, most folks don't do that, so for them it doesn't matter.
"I just want people to see my action heart."
The SXRD is a higher end version of the 3LCD. Higher contrast, 1080p support, etc.
1080p is the same thing, only 60 full frames/sec, progressive-scan.
SXRD is Sony's brand name for LCoS - "Liquid Crystal on Silicon". It's a 3-chip projection design, sort of a hybrid between LCD and DLP.
JVC calls it "HD-ILA". Same thing.
I'd like to get an HDTV used mainly for video games. I'd like a smaller widescreen tv, from 20" to 30". If it's 720p instead of 1080i/1080p that's cool. I'm looking for something that's on the cheaper side.
Anyone have any suggestions, price range ideas, or place to look?
Maybe if you look at shitty TVs, they might have a problem, but DLP offers of a viewing range of roughly 100 degrees before there's a noticeable drop in brightness. This is standard, not something you find in "the world's best DLP". Either you're exaggerating a whole lot with your "step to the side" schtick, you weren't looking at DLPs, or you managed to find a special brand of DLP that was able to somehow fuck up the technology.
Is this TV worth it?anyone know how its 1080p compares to the Sony and Sharp LCDs?
Samsungs generally have very good video quality. There may be reliability issues, so you'd want to check around on the net to see what people are saying about it.
The Samsung LN-S4095D is an EXCELLENT CHOICE.
I've been to Best Buy just to stare at this TV I don't know how many times, and the only thing that even comes close to touching it is the XBR2/3 Series from Sony. At the ridiculous price difference, (can almost be 2K for the larger models) I couldn't justify the XBR TVs.
For all the info you could ever want on the 4095D or its big brother, the 4096, check out Audio Video Science Forums: Samsung LN-S4696D/LN-S4096D. The 4095 and the 4096 are nearly identical except for a few features. (CableCARD, etc.)
I'd definitely go LCD over the Plasma and DLPs. Though the contrast ratios are better on plasma, 6000 and 7000:1 is nothing to cringe at. Additionally, the glare on Plasmas can be a showstopper when playing games, and the viewing angles on DLPs along with bulb issues etc. can create issues for some.
Anyhow, give the AVS Forums a look and see what you think. Hope this helps, good luck!
Seriously, if it hasn't been mentioned now, it should be mentioned again. AVSForums are THE place for information. So many video/audiophiles on there that are very helpful.
Just make sure you take note of the post dates.
When they say "It's not in stores yet, till the end of the summer" and the post is from June 2006, you should disregard the poster.
Is it worth dropping $400-800 on a 32" to play 360? Or should I just stick to my old CRT?
Now Playing - GRAW, FFIII DS, Ninja Gaiden Black, Phoenix Wright
26-inch LCD
Toshiba 26HL66 for $800
32-inch LCD
Olevia 532H for $900
37-inch LCD
Magnavox 37MF231D/37 for $1200
42-inch LCD
Olevia 542i for $1300
42-inch PLASMA
HP PL4260N for $1500
56-inch DLP
Toshiba 56HM66 for $1800
Most buyers REGRET not buying the larger TV, so buy the largest you can afford; keep in mind most places have a 0% card to distribute the cost. If you're really restrained, get the 32-inch Olevia, but I'd find a way to splurge.
By the way, gang - you can always go to the magazine rack at B&N or your local supermarket and just look at a Consumer Reports for free (they aren't shrink-wrapped), though they do appreciate your $$$upport.
My understanding (mind you, I haven't seen the 360 on anything but in-store displays and a friend's CRT) is that it looks a *LOT* better on an HDTV, even a smallish one, than it will on a CRT.
OT: Squashua that little dog in your sig, is it a "kaninchen dackel"? At least my little doggie is, and looks alot like yours ^^
Yeah, he's a tad bigger than a Tekel. Your standard "Tweenie House Dachshund". Comes in Red.
Same one as in my avatar.
Avataaaaaar! Aaaaaaaaaaaavaaaaataaaaarrrr!
Sorry, gotta do the Ultima thing every time I say/type/write Avatar.