The new forums will be named Coin Return (based on the most recent vote)! You can check on the status and timeline of the transition to the new forums here.
The Guiding Principles and New Rules document is now in effect.
I need to get higher! [Rock Climbing]
Kyougu
Registered User regular
Registered User regular
I started doing indoor rock climbing about a month and a half ago and have gotten incredibly hooked to it. As someone that's working on losing weight and going to the gym 6-7 days a week I found it added a nice break from the gym while also just being fun. Being able to see improvements week to week is a fantastic feeling.
So far I just been going once a week with a friend on their 2 for 1 nights. Right now though I'm seriously considering getting my own equipment and a year membership, which in the long run ends up cheaper (as long as I continued to go at least once a week). The gym has a package that includes a year membership and
Mad Rock Flash climbing shoes
Mad Rock Mars Harness
ABC Black Hole chalk bag
for 495 which seems fair. Have no idea bout the quality of the shoes and harness though. Anyone familiar with that brand? Or can throw any recommendations?
Also, I want to keep hitting the gym and running, so are there any specific excercises that I could add to my gym days that would benefit me on rock climbing?
Finally any general tips and advice. Thanks!
So far I just been going once a week with a friend on their 2 for 1 nights. Right now though I'm seriously considering getting my own equipment and a year membership, which in the long run ends up cheaper (as long as I continued to go at least once a week). The gym has a package that includes a year membership and
Mad Rock Flash climbing shoes
Mad Rock Mars Harness
ABC Black Hole chalk bag
for 495 which seems fair. Have no idea bout the quality of the shoes and harness though. Anyone familiar with that brand? Or can throw any recommendations?
Also, I want to keep hitting the gym and running, so are there any specific excercises that I could add to my gym days that would benefit me on rock climbing?
Finally any general tips and advice. Thanks!
Kyougu on
0
Posts
As for the shoes, be very careful here. Shoes make such a huge difference in climbing it's absurd. To start out, you definitely want shoes that are tight and firm. As you get better, you're going to want shoes that feel almost small on your feet. The tighter the shoes are, the better they will respond to you on the wall.
And remember: climb with your legs.
This. You're not pulling yourself up with your arms...you're pushing yourself up with your feet.
Can't say I like mad rocks, as I blew up a pair in a week (while still a newb). Do they have a discounted membership without the equipment? It's also important to get a comfy harness, as you won't mind being in it for extended lengths of time.
As far as workouts go - Planks, pullups+lockoffs, ab work and just lots of climbing is good. Try using the hangboard they have there (assuming they have one) every time you go for at least 10-15 minutes. It will help immensely in the long run.
Also: It takes A WHILE sometimes to develop the muscles and tendon strength for climbing. Don't push yourself too hard, as if you blow a tendon in your hand you can't climb for months.
Shoes are very personal, and it's best to try on as many as you can with a knowledgable person helping you out. Madrock are cheaper than most other shoes, but are not very durable. The rubber they use tends to wear out. As a new person with imprecise footwork, you can wear out rubber very quickly. If you know that you're interested in rock climbing and want to pursue it, I'd recommend getting shoes that you're happy with. If you're already going to the wall you should talk to the people there and ask about shoes. Most people will go through a pair a year, and can give you opinions on what they like and don't.
My opinion is to look at non-aggressive (meaning flat-soled and non-pointed toes) lace-ups for a first pair. I had La Sportiva Mythos that I really liked, and lasted me a year and a half when I started.
Normal gym membership runs 385 for a year. Their starter package (the mad rock shoes, harness and chalk bag) is 109 by itself. I guess they knock off 5 bucks if you get them at the same time.
I love climbing and will be picking it up again in two weeks after a 6 months hiatus but I've been looking forward to it for a long time
Unfortunately, aside from just that sort of exercise, very little of what you can do in a traditional gym is going to benefit you much. Straight arm hangs are good, pullups are better, lockoffs are good, general core work and a good general fitness level is key. Just focus on keeping yourself generally fit in the gym and be sure to hit the antagonist muscle groups that climbing doesn't work--chest and shoulders mostly, although reverse wrist curls and pronators would be good as well and they're quick.
If you're really serious about improving quickly find a copy of Eric Horst's Training for Climbing, but you may not get all that much out of it at this stage. He'll tell you exactly what I'm telling you: at this stage your best bet is to just climb as many different sorts of things as you can to get broad exposure to different movements and improve your efficiency on the rock. Focus on climbing a lot of routes at the gym, even if they seem easy, rather than projecting single hard routes (unless you've already done all the easy ones!).
That said, if you're getting the package for 109, that sounds pretty good - even though it was the President's Day sale, my buddy's total still came out to about $150, although this was including an ATC and a $10 caribiner. Then again, he did get some pretty nice La Sportiva's.
From my friends who work in climbing gyms, Mad Rock Flash generally get a pretty good response for beginner/intermediate climbing; I'm sure there are pros who rock them too.
Saying that what will help you along are high volume bodyweight (or just over bodyweight) exercises being able single leg squat your body weight a bunch of times is far more useful than being able to traditionally squat twice your body weight on the bar.
As Munkus correctly stated climbing is rarely about pure arm strength. It looks cool to bust out a one arm chinup but it takes a lot of energy. It's far more efficient to lock up your body with your abs, hips and stabilizers in your shoulders and push with your legs. You can walk up a ladder easier than you can campus up one.
WORK ON YOUR FORM.
WORK ON YOUR FORM.
Moving efficiently always trumps big gut busting moves. I see friends pump out after three climbs because grab, scramble then pull. Thinking about how best to move will increase your technique. There are two key ways of doing this.
When you climb indoors try to only put one hand on one hold, try not to swap hands or feet. This helps both planning and efficiency of movement.
The second is watch other good climbers and mimic them. It sounds a bit asinine but make your moves look as cool as possible 90% of the cool moves are really efficient.
If you concentrate on your technique and continue to lose weight you will improve a ridiculous amount.
In regards to the deal you need to ask yourself, do I really want to save five dollars? If you do sure, go for it. If not then spend your money somewhere else and buy some gear that you honestly like. Different shoes are good for different things so I would recommend to try a few different styles.
Satans..... hints.....
That set of equipment looks fine - there is really not much difference with harnesses and often your "beginner" kit will actually last you a few years. Shoes are good too (my wife has those, and finds them comfy). Sizing wise, I would recommend going for as tight a fit as you can without drastically affecting your comfort - in my opinion, the small advantage gained from super tight shoes is not worth compromising your comfort levels for, at least initially. You want to enjoy your climbing!
As others have mentioned, initially the greatest gains are going to be in improving basic technique. When you've reached a certain level you can worry about specific grip strength training, etc. For other activities, running is good, as is anything which builds core strength.
If your climbing wall has a bouldering section, then I'd recommend warming up and down by climbing the easy/fun bouldering problems. The first time you try bouldering, you will think "Holy shit, I am weak and terribad at this." but then once you understand the moves required for each problem then it will 'click' and your technique will really start improving, which will also help your route climbing.
I hope you continue to enjoy it, it's a great sport!
unless its changed mad rocks tend to be cheaply made.
if you want cheap but good, check out evolve shoes.
I'd like to take it up but have no idea where to start at.
I'd just do a google search in your area, there may be some outdoor 'facilities' set up that would be a good place to start.
Also, hangboarding is good for building up arm/finger strength. To echo the advice given above by Dance Commander, start off slow. Hangboarding is a good way to hurt yourself if you aren't careful. Just stick with hanging for about 10-12 seconds at a time for about 30 minutes, and if you can do pull-ups then toss a couple in. Don't go crazy with the different holds, just stick with the real juggy ones. One other thing you can do is "run" laps up the wall. Pick an easy route and climb it 4 or 5 times. Or if you want an even harder lap, pick an easy route and down climb it instead of getting belayed down. Do that 2 or 3 times without stopping and that will help build up your endurance.
If you do any outdoor climbing I suggest just going somewhere that has decent sport climbing until you build up your strength and confidence to do bouldering. My first outdoor climbing experience was bouldering at Pine Mountain in CA and on my first climb I ate shit from about 15 feet up and busted open my elbow pretty good. Sport climbing outside will let you experience what outdoor climbing is like without much risk of hurting yourself.
Other general advice - buy some athletic tape so when you get flappers/blisters you can tape over them and keep climbing. You probably want to go multiple times a week once you get your membership, that will really help to improve your strength if you stick with it. I started out going 2 days a week, now I go about 3-4, just be sure to give yourself a rest day after you had a good session of hard climbing.
Also, for people looking to get into climbing I found this to be a good website to locate climbing gyms near where you live.
Satans..... hints.....
you don't need to join a club. are you at UW? I am sure they have an outdoor club that leads trips or at the very least a mail server.
Depending on where you are: Mountainproject.com