It's still humming along fine, but the volume knob has gotten pretty noisy/scratchy; it thankfully only acts up when I'm turning it. Is there a recommended way to remedy this? Open it up and use contact cleaner?
I sure would be tempted to give contact cleaner a go, especially since once that type issue pops up it tends to only get worse. However I do think two years is early for the problem to arise, so while no idea on their level of service it may be worth considering sending a mail to Monoprice as they might have tips on what to do or some other relevant thing to say.
Bones heal, glory is forever.
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
I'm not sure what contacts you would clean on a volume-knob which is likely a digital encoder rather than a potentiometer.
It's once again that time where I start wondering if I should replace my onboard audio with some form of dedicated audio stuff for my headphones.
Realistically, I know my only meaningful gain will be tinnitus and/or a ruptured eardrum from the added power I don't need but won't be able to resist abusing.
But like, what if it's awesome and I can get that high of a solid upgrade without dropping like $400+?
I'm super happy with my iFi Zen stack with the v2 DAC. You don't need the separate headphone amp so long as your headphones don't require a ton of power to work. I actually find the stack pairs much better with my Mr. Speakers Aeon Flow Closed headphones better than my Gustard A20H amp/DAC that cost close to three times as much.
I'm not sure what contacts you would clean on a volume-knob which is likely a digital encoder rather than a potentiometer.
Since it is reported as being "noisy/scratchy" would that not indicate the volume knob is a potentiometer?
If it is not and it is instead something digital, then of course the "noisy/scratchy" can be something very different and maybe hard to fix.
I wondered that, but it's a DAC and as I understand it pots haven't been used on digital systems for volume control in a very long time. My guess is something internal to the encoder is deteriorating and interfering the plate and/or capture window.
I would try to power down and then turn the knob back and forth between 0 and 100 a few times to see if that can clear something? But I have my doubts there's access to the internals of an encoder that small for cleaning.
I'm not sure what contacts you would clean on a volume-knob which is likely a digital encoder rather than a potentiometer.
Since it is reported as being "noisy/scratchy" would that not indicate the volume knob is a potentiometer?
If it is not and it is instead something digital, then of course the "noisy/scratchy" can be something very different and maybe hard to fix.
I wondered that, but it's a DAC and as I understand it pots haven't been used on digital systems for volume control in a very long time. My guess is something internal to the encoder is deteriorating and interfering the plate and/or capture window.
I would try to power down and then turn the knob back and forth between 0 and 100 a few times to see if that can clear something? But I have my doubts there's access to the internals of an encoder that small for cleaning.
It's not a DAC. The 887 is an analog headphone amp, and it does indeed have an analog potentiometer.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I need to pick up a stereo (the red and white guys) switch for my dad's stereo setup.
Anything to watch out for? I'm looking at this on Amazon. https://tinyurl.com/SyrousStarr
I understand there isn't much to them, but everything just seems like a random Chinese brand.
I need to pick up a stereo (the red and white guys) switch for my dad's stereo setup.
Anything to watch out for? I'm looking at this on Amazon. https://tinyurl.com/SyrousStarr
I understand there isn't much to them, but everything just seems like a random Chinese brand.
As a general rule, don't buy something that lets you do more than needed, like the one you linked lets you not only switch input but also switch between outputs. If you don't need that functionality then I suggest going for something simpler, there will be less to go wrong and less to pay for.
If you go look you should be able to find similar switches made by classic brands, is one QED, but depending what is called for it may not really add value apart from perhaps fitting in better looks wise. In fact you can even use some control amps as switches, like for example I have an older Rotel one which I by accident discovered it would just that (I moved it around and forgot to plug it in).
It's still humming along fine, but the volume knob has gotten pretty noisy/scratchy; it thankfully only acts up when I'm turning it. Is there a recommended way to remedy this? Open it up and use contact cleaner?
Update on this:
I did contact Monoprice. Their reply was basically try cleaning the volume dial with canned air/a brush, make sure all the connections are secure, adjust the volume knob slowly, or barring all that send it in.
I picked up some contact cleaner today with the intention of disassembling it and doing a proper cleaning inside the unit. However, the way it is constructed made it so I could not slide the board out (or if I could then I did not see how to do so); the back plate came off but the potentiometer was all the way in the front. So I used the contact cleaner along the outside of the volume knob on the front of the unit, making sure to twist it a few times to make sure the cleaner would coat evenly. For good measure, after dabbing off what I could of the contact cleaner after a few minutes, I gave everything a quick blast of compressed air (both along the front and from the rear of the unit where I had removed that back plate).
I just hooked it up and everything seems to be working hunky-dory! No noise whatsoever when turning that dial. In hindsight I probably should have started with just the compressed air first.
In trying to track down better information on the issue, I came across this thread in the Audio Science Review forums about a similar issue on the Drop THX-789 (which is effectively the same headphone amp) and someone noted that they're using a pretty cheap pot in that unit. Based on the picture there and what I could see inside the unit, that might just be the same issue. Some people in that thread mentioned that their issues came back after a time, so I'll have to see if I experience the same. If it's just as simple as dust getting in there then I don't think it's too hard a fix to administer (although still annoying).
I guess this is as good a thread as any on these forums for this? I just need to talk about this while I take a break.
I bought a fancy new surround sound system! Fancy amplifier that can spit out all various video stuff a PS5 can do. And 5.1 speakers too. I've never owned a sound system more advanced than 2! I'm very excited!
Just... with all the advances we've made in audio/video tech... I remember hooking up my NES with the grey box and coaxial connection. All the way through RCA and now HDMI. One would think we would have devised an easier, simpler, and more advanced way of connecting speakers other than "...just shove this bare copper wire into this hole, tighten, and pray". I've never actually done this before. It's well within my labour expertise, and I am actually enjoying it. But... dang, it really is just stripping bare ass wires. I think I'll stop at the 2 front tower and center speakers for now just to double check this works and I'm not doing something fundamentally wrong.
"The sausage of Green Earth explodes with flavor like the cannon of culinary delight."
I guess this is as good a thread as any on these forums for this? I just need to talk about this while I take a break.
I bought a fancy new surround sound system! Fancy amplifier that can spit out all various video stuff a PS5 can do. And 5.1 speakers too. I've never owned a sound system more advanced than 2! I'm very excited!
Just... with all the advances we've made in audio/video tech... I remember hooking up my NES with the grey box and coaxial connection. All the way through RCA and now HDMI. One would think we would have devised an easier, simpler, and more advanced way of connecting speakers other than "...just shove this bare copper wire into this hole, tighten, and pray". I've never actually done this before. It's well within my labour expertise, and I am actually enjoying it. But... dang, it really is just stripping bare ass wires. I think I'll stop at the 2 front tower and center speakers for now just to double check this works and I'm not doing something fundamentally wrong.
Congrats on the new gear.
As for connecting the is wireless setups available ie. powered speakers that connect using wifi/Blutooth/X (Where X means some proprietary wireless deal).
Here is some (I have no view on the conclusions they make in the article): https://popsci.com/reviews/best-wireless-surround-sound-systems/
But the sky is the limit, the folks at B&O will set you up if you want.
Personally I am old school, so I'll take wires over wireless please. In my experience there is just less complications, although I will admit if I was building a new set up then maybe.
Annnnnd my drop panda's broke. The hinge just randomly came undone. I'm going to try and JBweld it tomorrow, but not sure if it'll still be that usable if it can't pivot. And my M50's ear-cups have apparently turned to jelly having been pressed against each other for 3+ years haha.
Hopefully I can hold out till CanJam next year. I don't mind jumping up a tier but I'd like something with a bit more bass and hopefully better build quality.
Yeah already got some on order, should be here tomorrow. Also grabbed some gorrilla tape since it's black, going to try and re-attach the cup with that and see how well it holds haha.
Just annoyed by timing. I had wanted to go to canjam for years since I have a hard time articulating in audio speak what I like in sound. But kept putting it off since the drop pandas were working fine. It's hard at the higher end when you get 2 reviews for the PX8's and the Focal Bathys, one says the PX8's are way better sounding, and the other says the Bathy's are the best sounding. Mark Levinson No 5909 is another option, but they are a full drop panda more expensive than the other 2 and some folks say they are worth it, some not so much.
Also need to decide if I still need Bluetooth. In reality, I tend to just use my Beats Pros when mobile since I mostly listen to podcasts and not music. At this point, it might be more value to get a wired set.
Can anyone help me understand the difference between a headphone stack like Schiit and an A/V Receiver? As I look to upgrade from the Panda's, I'm thinking my sound blaster Z isn't going to cut it. Reviews say the AE-5 is a surprisingly good upgrade, but it doesn't have an optical in, which today I use to pump sound from my PS5 through the TV to my PC and headphones.
An AVR would solve that issue in that I can just plug both in and connect to the TV, but they don't get talked about much with headphones, only speakers. Also I've have to find something rather compact, which could impact quality. Normally folks talk about stacks in DAC's/Amps. I could probably go that route as well, but would need to make sure I could somehow output sound from the PS5 to it. The Schiit Hel2 for example, seems great in that it'll help with mic and headphones, but it looks like it has just 1 input.
a bit of a layman's take but:
A schiit stack is a DAC+an amp
An AVR adds additional capabilities around sound processing specific to multi-channel sound as generally headphones are 1-2 channels of power with 2ish channels of sound (left and right). AVR's add processing and equalization for 7+ (typically) distinct channels of sound, as well as the power to drive them.
Also, as you've noted, headphone stuff is more limited input/output wise as it's designed for just the one use case while AVR's are designed as connection hubs for a wide variety of devices on both input and output sides.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
The main difference is that a receiver is an all in one integrated unit, and a setup like a Schitt stack is discrete components.
A receiver also has the juice to power regular passive speakers, not just headphones or powered speakers. Also the term “receiver” means that it has an AM/FM radio tuner built in.
Receivers are great, though. I use a Cambridge audio receiver for my music in my office, but I also have a Schitt stack on my desk for headphone listening. If you’re looking to use speakers, or if you need to get audio from a console or TV, a receiver (or just a an “integrated amplifier” if you don’t need terrestrial radio built in) is a good way to go. The drawback is that they’re typically much bulkier than most modern discrete DAC/headphone amp components.
The biggest issue is that there aren’t a lot of receivers that have built in DACs or that are particularly stereo/music focused. There are definitely some (like my Cambridge), but a lot of them either skip the DAC all together (like the Sony STRDH-190), or are more 7.1 home theater oriented. Which may also be great if your main goal is using it with a game console.
Here’s my gear from my office, for comparison’s sake.
Cambridge receiver, vs WiiM Pro streamer, and Schitt Modi, Magni, and Vali 2.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
All receivers have to have a DAC to work, but as you suggested they aren't music focused. I have an AVR that I love, but there's nothing compact about them so if you are prioritizing a minimum footprint and if headphones will be your primary sound source I wouldn't go in that direction. AVRs are very bulky and so are all the cables and speaker wires which is what they are made for. Getting an AVR just to manage a couple HDMI signals and have them output to headphones seems like a waste.
All receivers have to have a DAC to work, but as you suggested they aren't music focused. I have an AVR that I love, but there's nothing compact about them so if you are prioritizing a minimum footprint and if headphones will be your primary sound source I wouldn't go in that direction. AVRs are very bulky and so are all the cables and speaker wires which is what they are made for. Getting an AVR just to manage a couple HDMI signals and have them output to headphones seems like a waste.
All receivers (or even integrated amps) definitely don’t have to have DACs. I have two that don’t. Just analog in/analog out. Home theater / surround sound receivers would definitely have DACs by default, though, but yeah, very different classes.
But yeah, if space is a concern, a tiny optical audio breakout HDMI box and a little headphone amp/DAC is a much more space efficient way to go if it’s just going to be for getting good headphone audio out of a console.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Thanks, that's what was curious. Am I paying for all the other stuff in an AVR that I wouldn't use and the headphone piece is mostly just power with a DAC but one that may not match actual headphone DAC/Amps for the same cost.
The PS5 is really the problem child here. Normally with an optical out, I'd just feed that to the amp/dac and the HDMI to the TV. The AVR could help, but then I have 1 more component in the chain and my LG C2 is already configured for PC and PS5 separately.
Does anyone know if there is any distortion or loss of audio fidelity by using the HDMI to the TV, then using Optical Out to an amp/dac? If not, then I just need to look for an amp/dac combo that has 2 inputs, with at least 1 optical in (maybe 2 if I output from my PC via optical). Though I could just plug in which ever optical I need at the time, since I probably don't need both at once.
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ButtersA glass of some milksRegistered Userregular
There shouldn't be any distortion, but I have heard some devices (like LG TVs) have lag problems with optical outputs.
The optical output from LG TV's is known to have issues with DACs with ESS chips. Something about the signal is dirty and the ESS chip cannot correct for it like the AKM based DACs can. That was a major issue for 2020 to 2022 after the factory that made the AKM chips burned down. That was why nearly all DACS for a couple of years only has ESS DACs. Now that AKM is producing chips again the lag with LG TV's may not be an issue anymore.
My older AKM based Gustard A20H DAC/amp is connected to MY LG C1 via optical and I've never had any lag issues. I'd do some research to make sure the current/new generation of AKM chips also doesn't have any issues before buying anything.
One thing I do miss about my old Sony TV was that it allowed me to limit the volume output on the optical out. I had it turned down to 75% so I had useable volume range on my amp. The fixed volume coming out of my LG is so loud the usable range on my Gustard's amp is from 2-4 out of 100 (or 50 I've never used it much past 12-15 when it used to be my desktop amp) and the gain on low depending on what I'm watching or which headphones I'm using all of which are of average sensitivity.
I'll have to dig more to see if there is any loss of fidelity going this route.
EDIT: Looks like there is... The PS5 only supports UAC 1.0, with most DAC's supporting UAC 2.0. So you need to find another device that can accept UAC 1.0 and output UAC 2.0 or optical.
Looks like there are a few DAC's that now support UAC 1.0. The Schiit Hel2 and the jds labs ones w/ firmware update work. Going to have to do some research, the Hel2 has an optical in as well, so in theory, I could go optical from my SBz in my PC and UAC 1.0 from the PS5.
Forgot how much I didn't like researching headphones hahaha. Everyone has a different opinion on the same sets. I'm going to need to find a place with a good return policy or trek up to NYC to visit Audio46 ha.
I have 3 use cases:
1) Gym / Podcasts - This one is ok. I have some Beats earbuds that work just fine. I can pop one in for podcasts or both for high energy sound for the gym.
2) Videogames - Right now desktop and PS5. Neither the M50's or Panda's seem the best at this. For the M50's the bass has a ton of punch but everything else is muted. I'm using the Soundblaster Z pro studio to help with the highs/mids. It's funny I was fine with them for almost a decade, but coming back to them it's quite different (also the clamping is killing me). The panda's were the opposite. In passive mode, they did really well with highs, but they had no bass to speak of. I remember playing Ace Combat 7 and the missiles went from in your face (M50's) to sounding like a child's pop cap. SBZ pro studio to the rescue again, pumping up the bass to help compensate. However it never really equaled their sound in BT mode.
I've also been thinking about open backs. For most of my life, i've been in close proximity to siblings, roommates, and the SO. Close backs were really the only option. Now though, I have my own office and many times I wear 1 cup off ear so I can hear if my wife is talking to me. The concern is bass. As mentioned for a "cinema" experience, since I don't play FPS competitively, I'm a bit worried about losing the bass.
3) Music - This is where the Panda's were really nice. In bluetooth mode, the headset amp kicked on and really helped the bass show up. Generally I was really happy with the sound. The main drawback was sometimes if I was laying in bed listening, the pillow would push the headband and cups around. I have no idea what to do here. I'm pretty private when it comes to music listening, so I'd 100% have to go close back or IEM. The IEM route would help with the pillow, but I'd have to find good tips since my beats can irritate my ears after a hour or so. I thought about the Sony XM5, but they seem to be polarizing, so I'd like to listen to them with my own source before shelling out that kind of money. I was listening at Best Buy, but they defiantly cherry picked some songs. Also reviews for the new Beats Studio's have been pretty good, and there is talk of a lot of the improvements there making their way over to the 2nd version of the Apple Airpod Max's, which could take them up a level.
Also still looking into DAC's/Amp's. I'm leaning towards JDSlabs as the element 3 has both optical and USB in for my desktop and PS5. I'm going to email them asking how that would work, since reviews are pretty sparse for that brand vs Schiit or Topping.
Thinking I may grab a set of DT990's. They're open back, on the cheaper side, with a supposed V signature. They are also supposed to be super comfortable. I'd like to figure out where I stand on the open vs closed back for gaming, before shelling out a lot of money.
The JDSlabs Element stuff if very good from what I've read. You should have no issues switching between inputs. You could either run the conversion cable with your PS5 and then your PC with optical, or optical out from the TV and USB for your PC. I've used both optical and USB with DAC's from my PC and didn't hear an audible difference. Maybe a slight difference in volume but no discernable difference in sound quality.
One thing that is super nice to have is a remote control for an Amp/DAC if it isn't within arms reach. Most mid to high end Topping Amp/DAC's come with remotes. I'm not familiar enough with Topping's products to know if they have any USB issues with the PS5.
As far as open versus closed headphones the soundstage and imaging is going to vary from headphone to headphone. Nothing to lose by buying the DT990's from Amazon and returning them if they aren't what you're looking for. Depending on how loud your PC is when gaming and whether or not being able to hear the fans effects your gameplay is something you're going to have to find out. A 30 day headphone rental from Amazon should help you sort that out
I'll reach out to Topping as well. They seem very well liked, and a remote would be awesome.
Yeah testing out some open backs seems like a really good idea before doing anything else. I have a lian li o11 dynamic XL case, where the fans are usually quiet but can ramp up sometimes (in Midnight Suns during loading screens they ramp up). I was thinking about getting a pair of Sundara, but QC seems like a nightmare. I did think about grabbing some LCD-2 Classic's to try out given Amazon's return policy. But not sure I want to risk that kind of money haha.
I'm potentially looking at a new gaming headset. Currently use the Sennheiser Game One, but I'm wondering if I could get better?
I trust Sennheiser, so I was looking at the PC38X. I also saw the EPOS H6Pro recommended.
Maybe I should just stick to the headset I have and get an external sound card (EPOS GSX 300 was recommended to me)? My main drive for this is I have been playing Call of Duty with friends, and my friends seem to be able to hear footsteps that I cannot.
They had both tried a slew of different wired/wireless headsets but said the PC38X was leagues above them in audio quality. I know one of those friends uses his for music every day also.
I can personally attest to the mic quality being more than sufficient.
How much are you looking to spend? The Audeze Maxwell seems to be the top rated gaming headset right now. But it's a planar headphone, so it'll be better for competitive games were positioning via audio can help. To do that, they generally have to give up on bass/mid-bass, so explosions and other "cinema" effect sounds will be weakened.
Man, quite the decision ahead of me here. I grabbed a set of DT990's and hated them. The sound was worse than the Pandas and oddly for how often folks mention comfort, they were really uncomfortable.
So now I'm testing the Audeze LCD-2 Classics vs the LCD-2 Close Backs (CB's). Both are amazing headphones once EQ'd (not sure how I feel about such an expensive headphone requiring EQ to sound good (without EQ they both sound terrible)). The open backs seem to have the edge with games, as speech sounds a bit better and the open nature allows for better separation of sounds. For example, in a game trailer, you can hear flying creatures off to the left but with the CB's, the sound is closer so you, so those creature sounds get covered up. However the closed backs sound way better with rock/metal music. Almost all other music feels equal, but when guitars are going at high speed/energy, the closed backs seem to be able to keep up, where as the classics get muddy. The other con for the Classics, they are reeeeaaally open back haha. I can hear music not just in my office, but up the stairs into the living room. It helps that the closed backs have massive soundstage for closed backs (not equal to the classics of course though). Both headphones have amazing bass though.
I wish I knew EQ better. I wonder if I couldn't do something to get the Classics to help the guitars. At this point I'm not sure which one I'm going to send back. These are mostly for gaming, so I'm leaning Classics. They are slightly cheaper and weigh slightly less. If I'm being realistic, I mostly listen to music via my Pandas or Beats earbuds (gym), so maybe I shouldn't be hung up on the music piece.
Alright, I need to talk out a potential new setup and hopefully nobody points out any glaring flaws in my thinking.
My PC is being moved to the living room, which raises the possibility of hooking it up to the TV for gaming and streaming.
Most straightforward way to do it would be a long HDMI cable from the video card to the TV and I'm done. AVR handles sound; everything is gravy.
However, my PC sound system will also be moving with it, and it has a subwoofer. I could, in theory, get a set of Y-cables, feed both PC and living room systems into the subwoofer (not using subwoofer passthrough, just dedicated subwoofer out on both systems), and it should work?
Now let's say I'm a crazy person. I also happen to have a Schiit Modi (DAC) + Magni (headphone amp) on my desk. I could also, in theory, get rid of the AVR, go DAC (switchable input between PC and TV) > headphone amp, which also works as pre-amp for volume control > speaker amp > speakers + subwoofer (which would once again take a Y-cable for subwoofer input).
Do these setups work? The HDMI idea should, but I'm not 100% sure about the other two.
Does anyone have a favorite USB speaker for PC? I have a very old Altec Lansing 4.1 surround system that's primary drawback is that without a software equalizer the bass is just too damn loud, and secondarily that nothing really uses 4.1 audio (bought it just before 5.1 became popular) and so while you can set it up in Realtek Audio and so on it never really gets utilized properly. I mostly game with Logitech G35 surround headphones. My current desk setup involves a KVM with my work laptop and my personal desktop and I was thinking that if I replaced it with a USB solution it'd be easy to have the KVM switch it between systems for speaker use which would primarily be music or MS Teams calls. I found this list https://www.everythingusb.com/speakers.html and thinking the Creative Pebble Pro would probably be what I'd want or otherwise the Logitech G560 for a splurgier option. Anyone use either of these or have other suggestions? Don't really care about the RGB but the other options seems to use USB for power and minijack for audio.
Alright, I need to talk out a potential new setup and hopefully nobody points out any glaring flaws in my thinking.
My PC is being moved to the living room, which raises the possibility of hooking it up to the TV for gaming and streaming.
Most straightforward way to do it would be a long HDMI cable from the video card to the TV and I'm done. AVR handles sound; everything is gravy.
However, my PC sound system will also be moving with it, and it has a subwoofer. I could, in theory, get a set of Y-cables, feed both PC and living room systems into the subwoofer (not using subwoofer passthrough, just dedicated subwoofer out on both systems), and it should work?
Now let's say I'm a crazy person. I also happen to have a Schiit Modi (DAC) + Magni (headphone amp) on my desk. I could also, in theory, get rid of the AVR, go DAC (switchable input between PC and TV) > headphone amp, which also works as pre-amp for volume control > speaker amp > speakers + subwoofer (which would once again take a Y-cable for subwoofer input).
Do these setups work? The HDMI idea should, but I'm not 100% sure about the other two.
I'm not sure I'm following? You have an AVR in the living room, do you have speakers in the living room? Is it just a 2.0 setup? What is your PC sound system?
You should be able to use your DAC/Amp stack with your PC speakers. My understanding is that most dedicated stacks have more power and better DAC's than AVR's. AVR's however have all the video features an audio stack won't have. So you have to plug everything into your TV, then output the sound to the stack.
Does anyone have a favorite USB speaker for PC? I have a very old Altec Lansing 4.1 surround system that's primary drawback is that without a software equalizer the bass is just too damn loud, and secondarily that nothing really uses 4.1 audio (bought it just before 5.1 became popular) and so while you can set it up in Realtek Audio and so on it never really gets utilized properly. I mostly game with Logitech G35 surround headphones. My current desk setup involves a KVM with my work laptop and my personal desktop and I was thinking that if I replaced it with a USB solution it'd be easy to have the KVM switch it between systems for speaker use which would primarily be music or MS Teams calls. I found this list https://www.everythingusb.com/speakers.html and thinking the Creative Pebble Pro would probably be what I'd want or otherwise the Logitech G560 for a splurgier option. Anyone use either of these or have other suggestions? Don't really care about the RGB but the other options seems to use USB for power and minijack for audio.
It's been a really long time since I had PC speakers. Do you need 5.1? The Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 have been around forever and are up there as the gold standard. I have the 5.1 system way back and loved it. My buddy has a Logitech 5.1 system from a while back, which also sounds really good, though heavy on the bass (you can tweak that). However it was pretty expensive.
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I sure would be tempted to give contact cleaner a go, especially since once that type issue pops up it tends to only get worse. However I do think two years is early for the problem to arise, so while no idea on their level of service it may be worth considering sending a mail to Monoprice as they might have tips on what to do or some other relevant thing to say.
Looks to be a good find. Be aware of the condition of the stylus, if it is very worn or damaged it will cause excessive wear on any records you use it on. https://vintagesonics.com/guides/turntables-guides/how-to-check-a-turntable-stylus-a-step-by-step-guide/
Applying 2-3 drops of oil to the motor may also be a good idea, if the unit has been sitting for years it could be even more important. Here is a link to the manual of the SL: https://usermanual.wiki/Document/TechnicsSL3200OwnersManual.2012015137
I'm super happy with my iFi Zen stack with the v2 DAC. You don't need the separate headphone amp so long as your headphones don't require a ton of power to work. I actually find the stack pairs much better with my Mr. Speakers Aeon Flow Closed headphones better than my Gustard A20H amp/DAC that cost close to three times as much.
Since it is reported as being "noisy/scratchy" would that not indicate the volume knob is a potentiometer?
If it is not and it is instead something digital, then of course the "noisy/scratchy" can be something very different and maybe hard to fix.
I wondered that, but it's a DAC and as I understand it pots haven't been used on digital systems for volume control in a very long time. My guess is something internal to the encoder is deteriorating and interfering the plate and/or capture window.
I would try to power down and then turn the knob back and forth between 0 and 100 a few times to see if that can clear something? But I have my doubts there's access to the internals of an encoder that small for cleaning.
It's not a DAC. The 887 is an analog headphone amp, and it does indeed have an analog potentiometer.
You used to be able to record and playback digital audio to/from video cassettes as far back as 1977. This is wiiiiiild.
Anything to watch out for? I'm looking at this on Amazon.
https://tinyurl.com/SyrousStarr
I understand there isn't much to them, but everything just seems like a random Chinese brand.
As a general rule, don't buy something that lets you do more than needed, like the one you linked lets you not only switch input but also switch between outputs. If you don't need that functionality then I suggest going for something simpler, there will be less to go wrong and less to pay for.
If you go look you should be able to find similar switches made by classic brands, is one QED, but depending what is called for it may not really add value apart from perhaps fitting in better looks wise. In fact you can even use some control amps as switches, like for example I have an older Rotel one which I by accident discovered it would just that (I moved it around and forgot to plug it in).
Update on this:
I did contact Monoprice. Their reply was basically try cleaning the volume dial with canned air/a brush, make sure all the connections are secure, adjust the volume knob slowly, or barring all that send it in.
I picked up some contact cleaner today with the intention of disassembling it and doing a proper cleaning inside the unit. However, the way it is constructed made it so I could not slide the board out (or if I could then I did not see how to do so); the back plate came off but the potentiometer was all the way in the front. So I used the contact cleaner along the outside of the volume knob on the front of the unit, making sure to twist it a few times to make sure the cleaner would coat evenly. For good measure, after dabbing off what I could of the contact cleaner after a few minutes, I gave everything a quick blast of compressed air (both along the front and from the rear of the unit where I had removed that back plate).
I just hooked it up and everything seems to be working hunky-dory! No noise whatsoever when turning that dial. In hindsight I probably should have started with just the compressed air first.
In trying to track down better information on the issue, I came across this thread in the Audio Science Review forums about a similar issue on the Drop THX-789 (which is effectively the same headphone amp) and someone noted that they're using a pretty cheap pot in that unit. Based on the picture there and what I could see inside the unit, that might just be the same issue. Some people in that thread mentioned that their issues came back after a time, so I'll have to see if I experience the same. If it's just as simple as dust getting in there then I don't think it's too hard a fix to administer (although still annoying).
I bought a fancy new surround sound system! Fancy amplifier that can spit out all various video stuff a PS5 can do. And 5.1 speakers too. I've never owned a sound system more advanced than 2! I'm very excited!
Just... with all the advances we've made in audio/video tech... I remember hooking up my NES with the grey box and coaxial connection. All the way through RCA and now HDMI. One would think we would have devised an easier, simpler, and more advanced way of connecting speakers other than "...just shove this bare copper wire into this hole, tighten, and pray". I've never actually done this before. It's well within my labour expertise, and I am actually enjoying it. But... dang, it really is just stripping bare ass wires. I think I'll stop at the 2 front tower and center speakers for now just to double check this works and I'm not doing something fundamentally wrong.
Congrats on the new gear.
As for connecting the is wireless setups available ie. powered speakers that connect using wifi/Blutooth/X (Where X means some proprietary wireless deal).
Here is some (I have no view on the conclusions they make in the article): https://popsci.com/reviews/best-wireless-surround-sound-systems/
But the sky is the limit, the folks at B&O will set you up if you want.
Personally I am old school, so I'll take wires over wireless please. In my experience there is just less complications, although I will admit if I was building a new set up then maybe.
Hopefully I can hold out till CanJam next year. I don't mind jumping up a tier but I'd like something with a bit more bass and hopefully better build quality.
Stock replacements: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-HP-EP-Replacement-Earpads-Headphones/dp/B00LICYRVW?th=1
Aftermarket replacements (although these change the sound signature in a way that makes things less bassy): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=twister_B09GNLLS7B?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Just annoyed by timing. I had wanted to go to canjam for years since I have a hard time articulating in audio speak what I like in sound. But kept putting it off since the drop pandas were working fine. It's hard at the higher end when you get 2 reviews for the PX8's and the Focal Bathys, one says the PX8's are way better sounding, and the other says the Bathy's are the best sounding. Mark Levinson No 5909 is another option, but they are a full drop panda more expensive than the other 2 and some folks say they are worth it, some not so much.
Also need to decide if I still need Bluetooth. In reality, I tend to just use my Beats Pros when mobile since I mostly listen to podcasts and not music. At this point, it might be more value to get a wired set.
An AVR would solve that issue in that I can just plug both in and connect to the TV, but they don't get talked about much with headphones, only speakers. Also I've have to find something rather compact, which could impact quality. Normally folks talk about stacks in DAC's/Amps. I could probably go that route as well, but would need to make sure I could somehow output sound from the PS5 to it. The Schiit Hel2 for example, seems great in that it'll help with mic and headphones, but it looks like it has just 1 input.
A schiit stack is a DAC+an amp
An AVR adds additional capabilities around sound processing specific to multi-channel sound as generally headphones are 1-2 channels of power with 2ish channels of sound (left and right). AVR's add processing and equalization for 7+ (typically) distinct channels of sound, as well as the power to drive them.
Also, as you've noted, headphone stuff is more limited input/output wise as it's designed for just the one use case while AVR's are designed as connection hubs for a wide variety of devices on both input and output sides.
A receiver also has the juice to power regular passive speakers, not just headphones or powered speakers. Also the term “receiver” means that it has an AM/FM radio tuner built in.
Receivers are great, though. I use a Cambridge audio receiver for my music in my office, but I also have a Schitt stack on my desk for headphone listening. If you’re looking to use speakers, or if you need to get audio from a console or TV, a receiver (or just a an “integrated amplifier” if you don’t need terrestrial radio built in) is a good way to go. The drawback is that they’re typically much bulkier than most modern discrete DAC/headphone amp components.
The biggest issue is that there aren’t a lot of receivers that have built in DACs or that are particularly stereo/music focused. There are definitely some (like my Cambridge), but a lot of them either skip the DAC all together (like the Sony STRDH-190), or are more 7.1 home theater oriented. Which may also be great if your main goal is using it with a game console.
Here’s my gear from my office, for comparison’s sake.
Cambridge receiver, vs WiiM Pro streamer, and Schitt Modi, Magni, and Vali 2.
All receivers (or even integrated amps) definitely don’t have to have DACs. I have two that don’t. Just analog in/analog out. Home theater / surround sound receivers would definitely have DACs by default, though, but yeah, very different classes.
But yeah, if space is a concern, a tiny optical audio breakout HDMI box and a little headphone amp/DAC is a much more space efficient way to go if it’s just going to be for getting good headphone audio out of a console.
The PS5 is really the problem child here. Normally with an optical out, I'd just feed that to the amp/dac and the HDMI to the TV. The AVR could help, but then I have 1 more component in the chain and my LG C2 is already configured for PC and PS5 separately.
Does anyone know if there is any distortion or loss of audio fidelity by using the HDMI to the TV, then using Optical Out to an amp/dac? If not, then I just need to look for an amp/dac combo that has 2 inputs, with at least 1 optical in (maybe 2 if I output from my PC via optical). Though I could just plug in which ever optical I need at the time, since I probably don't need both at once.
My older AKM based Gustard A20H DAC/amp is connected to MY LG C1 via optical and I've never had any lag issues. I'd do some research to make sure the current/new generation of AKM chips also doesn't have any issues before buying anything.
One thing I do miss about my old Sony TV was that it allowed me to limit the volume output on the optical out. I had it turned down to 75% so I had useable volume range on my amp. The fixed volume coming out of my LG is so loud the usable range on my Gustard's amp is from 2-4 out of 100 (or 50 I've never used it much past 12-15 when it used to be my desktop amp) and the gain on low depending on what I'm watching or which headphones I'm using all of which are of average sensitivity.
Edit: I hate typing on my phone!
https://blog.jdslabs.com/2020/11/connecting-a-usb-dac-to-ps4-or-ps5/
I'll have to dig more to see if there is any loss of fidelity going this route.
EDIT: Looks like there is... The PS5 only supports UAC 1.0, with most DAC's supporting UAC 2.0. So you need to find another device that can accept UAC 1.0 and output UAC 2.0 or optical.
Looks like there are a few DAC's that now support UAC 1.0. The Schiit Hel2 and the jds labs ones w/ firmware update work. Going to have to do some research, the Hel2 has an optical in as well, so in theory, I could go optical from my SBz in my PC and UAC 1.0 from the PS5.
I have 3 use cases:
1) Gym / Podcasts - This one is ok. I have some Beats earbuds that work just fine. I can pop one in for podcasts or both for high energy sound for the gym.
2) Videogames - Right now desktop and PS5. Neither the M50's or Panda's seem the best at this. For the M50's the bass has a ton of punch but everything else is muted. I'm using the Soundblaster Z pro studio to help with the highs/mids. It's funny I was fine with them for almost a decade, but coming back to them it's quite different (also the clamping is killing me). The panda's were the opposite. In passive mode, they did really well with highs, but they had no bass to speak of. I remember playing Ace Combat 7 and the missiles went from in your face (M50's) to sounding like a child's pop cap. SBZ pro studio to the rescue again, pumping up the bass to help compensate. However it never really equaled their sound in BT mode.
I've also been thinking about open backs. For most of my life, i've been in close proximity to siblings, roommates, and the SO. Close backs were really the only option. Now though, I have my own office and many times I wear 1 cup off ear so I can hear if my wife is talking to me. The concern is bass. As mentioned for a "cinema" experience, since I don't play FPS competitively, I'm a bit worried about losing the bass.
3) Music - This is where the Panda's were really nice. In bluetooth mode, the headset amp kicked on and really helped the bass show up. Generally I was really happy with the sound. The main drawback was sometimes if I was laying in bed listening, the pillow would push the headband and cups around. I have no idea what to do here. I'm pretty private when it comes to music listening, so I'd 100% have to go close back or IEM. The IEM route would help with the pillow, but I'd have to find good tips since my beats can irritate my ears after a hour or so. I thought about the Sony XM5, but they seem to be polarizing, so I'd like to listen to them with my own source before shelling out that kind of money. I was listening at Best Buy, but they defiantly cherry picked some songs. Also reviews for the new Beats Studio's have been pretty good, and there is talk of a lot of the improvements there making their way over to the 2nd version of the Apple Airpod Max's, which could take them up a level.
Also still looking into DAC's/Amp's. I'm leaning towards JDSlabs as the element 3 has both optical and USB in for my desktop and PS5. I'm going to email them asking how that would work, since reviews are pretty sparse for that brand vs Schiit or Topping.
One thing that is super nice to have is a remote control for an Amp/DAC if it isn't within arms reach. Most mid to high end Topping Amp/DAC's come with remotes. I'm not familiar enough with Topping's products to know if they have any USB issues with the PS5.
As far as open versus closed headphones the soundstage and imaging is going to vary from headphone to headphone. Nothing to lose by buying the DT990's from Amazon and returning them if they aren't what you're looking for. Depending on how loud your PC is when gaming and whether or not being able to hear the fans effects your gameplay is something you're going to have to find out. A 30 day headphone rental from Amazon should help you sort that out
Yeah testing out some open backs seems like a really good idea before doing anything else. I have a lian li o11 dynamic XL case, where the fans are usually quiet but can ramp up sometimes (in Midnight Suns during loading screens they ramp up). I was thinking about getting a pair of Sundara, but QC seems like a nightmare. I did think about grabbing some LCD-2 Classic's to try out given Amazon's return policy. But not sure I want to risk that kind of money haha.
I trust Sennheiser, so I was looking at the PC38X. I also saw the EPOS H6Pro recommended.
Maybe I should just stick to the headset I have and get an external sound card (EPOS GSX 300 was recommended to me)? My main drive for this is I have been playing Call of Duty with friends, and my friends seem to be able to hear footsteps that I cannot.
They had both tried a slew of different wired/wireless headsets but said the PC38X was leagues above them in audio quality. I know one of those friends uses his for music every day also.
I can personally attest to the mic quality being more than sufficient.
So now I'm testing the Audeze LCD-2 Classics vs the LCD-2 Close Backs (CB's). Both are amazing headphones once EQ'd (not sure how I feel about such an expensive headphone requiring EQ to sound good (without EQ they both sound terrible)). The open backs seem to have the edge with games, as speech sounds a bit better and the open nature allows for better separation of sounds. For example, in a game trailer, you can hear flying creatures off to the left but with the CB's, the sound is closer so you, so those creature sounds get covered up. However the closed backs sound way better with rock/metal music. Almost all other music feels equal, but when guitars are going at high speed/energy, the closed backs seem to be able to keep up, where as the classics get muddy. The other con for the Classics, they are reeeeaaally open back haha. I can hear music not just in my office, but up the stairs into the living room. It helps that the closed backs have massive soundstage for closed backs (not equal to the classics of course though). Both headphones have amazing bass though.
I wish I knew EQ better. I wonder if I couldn't do something to get the Classics to help the guitars. At this point I'm not sure which one I'm going to send back. These are mostly for gaming, so I'm leaning Classics. They are slightly cheaper and weigh slightly less. If I'm being realistic, I mostly listen to music via my Pandas or Beats earbuds (gym), so maybe I shouldn't be hung up on the music piece.
My PC is being moved to the living room, which raises the possibility of hooking it up to the TV for gaming and streaming.
Most straightforward way to do it would be a long HDMI cable from the video card to the TV and I'm done. AVR handles sound; everything is gravy.
However, my PC sound system will also be moving with it, and it has a subwoofer. I could, in theory, get a set of Y-cables, feed both PC and living room systems into the subwoofer (not using subwoofer passthrough, just dedicated subwoofer out on both systems), and it should work?
Now let's say I'm a crazy person. I also happen to have a Schiit Modi (DAC) + Magni (headphone amp) on my desk. I could also, in theory, get rid of the AVR, go DAC (switchable input between PC and TV) > headphone amp, which also works as pre-amp for volume control > speaker amp > speakers + subwoofer (which would once again take a Y-cable for subwoofer input).
Do these setups work? The HDMI idea should, but I'm not 100% sure about the other two.
I'm not sure I'm following? You have an AVR in the living room, do you have speakers in the living room? Is it just a 2.0 setup? What is your PC sound system?
You should be able to use your DAC/Amp stack with your PC speakers. My understanding is that most dedicated stacks have more power and better DAC's than AVR's. AVR's however have all the video features an audio stack won't have. So you have to plug everything into your TV, then output the sound to the stack.
It's been a really long time since I had PC speakers. Do you need 5.1? The Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 have been around forever and are up there as the gold standard. I have the 5.1 system way back and loved it. My buddy has a Logitech 5.1 system from a while back, which also sounds really good, though heavy on the bass (you can tweak that). However it was pretty expensive.