So everyone is pretty much in agreement to go with a 1155 with a i7-3770?
Well, 1155. The specific processor will be pretty dependent on your needs. Usually wouldn't recommend going with an i7-3770K over the venerable i5-3570K unless you know you are doing very specific CPU-intensive tasks like encoding lots of video. The difference between the two is hyperthreading, a tiny bump in clock speed, and 2MB of cache... but there's honestly not a lot out there that will truly bottleneck against the 3570K, especially with a decent overclock.
Hell, there's not a lot of things out there that will bottleneck an i3-2130, but there are no K-model i3s.
I would kill for an overclockable i3. That would be awesome.
Yeah, that would be amazing. Intel probably figures that from the crowd who are interested in overclocking, few will give up on the idea on account of the $70 or so gap between an i5-3570K and a theoretical i3-2130K.
0
Options
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
So everyone is pretty much in agreement to go with a 1155 with a i7-3770?
Well, 1155. The specific processor will be pretty dependent on your needs. Usually wouldn't recommend going with an i7-3770K over the venerable i5-3570K unless you know you are doing very specific CPU-intensive tasks like encoding lots of video. The difference between the two is hyperthreading, a tiny bump in clock speed, and 2MB of cache... but there's honestly not a lot out there that will truly bottleneck against the 3570K, especially with a decent overclock.
Hell, there's not a lot of things out there that will bottleneck an i3-2130, but there are no K-model i3s.
I would kill for an overclockable i3. That would be awesome.
Yeah, that would be amazing. Intel probably figures that from the crowd who are interested in overclocking, few will give up on the idea on account of the $70 or so gap between an i5-3570K and a theoretical i3-2130K.
[/quote]
True, but it's only been 2 generations since you could buy an i3-550 or an i5-650 and OC it till it screamed, and I'd love to be able to see something like that again.
So everyone is pretty much in agreement to go with a 1155 with a i7-3770?
It's a good processor. I have one in my rig, but I had money to burn. I think an i5 is probably better bang for the buck though.
Since you specifically mentioned video encoding it really depends on how much encoding you'll be doing and how tight your budget is. You'll be in the small minority where the i7 actually makes sense, but probably not if it means something like your GPU takes an unreasonable hit due to budgetary reasons.
Another question which possibly could save me money.. On my current computer I used a Windows Vista to Windows 7 upgrade. Would I be able to use my Windows Vista serial number again for my Windows 7 OS if I installed it on my new computer or should I just buy a new OEM copy of Windows 7? I've read that the OEM copies of Windows 7 don't transfer, but was wondering if the upgraded serials do.
0
Options
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
Another question which possibly could save me money.. On my current computer I used a Windows Vista to Windows 7 upgrade. Would I be able to use my Windows Vista serial number again for my Windows 7 OS if I installed it on my new computer or should I just buy a new OEM copy of Windows 7? I've read that the OEM copies of Windows 7 don't transfer, but was wondering if the upgraded serials do.
Just do a clean install using your upgrade copy of Windows 7. As long as you're not using the Vista license that you're "upgrading" from, you're within the EULA.
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited August 2012
How rough are you on laptops? When I was married, my wife was so destructive to laptops, I would have paid 100 bucks for that warranty in a heart beat.
I wouldn't now, because I am very careful and easy with my equipment. You just need to gauge how likely it is that you'll use it.
Newegg has 240GB OCZ Agility 3 2.5" SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (AGT3-25SAT3-240G) + $20 Newegg Promotional Gift Card for $149.99 - $10 rebate = $139.99 with free shipping
0
Options
Apothe0sisHave you ever questioned the nature of your reality?Registered Userregular
You can see the fanless 460W power supply, 2 x DVD drives which I need because of reasons, and a little tube of arctic silver because I'm pretty sure I didn't put any in when I first built my NAS and it seems to be idling at around 70C which sounds a little high.
0
Options
DuriniaEvolved from Space PotatoesRegistered Userregular
Not sure if anyone else has seen this, but Tech Report has a VERY interesting article up on rethinking how we measure performance on GPUs, given average FPS is largely over the perception limit.
There are compelling arguments that the "perception limit" for frame rate is mythical or impossible to quantify.
This is true. That said, the analysis he does (which isn't by any means perfect, but is interesting) gives some insights into what other metrics might be interesting beyond just average FPS, regardless of how good that is.
For business reasons, I must preserve the outward sign of sanity.
--Mark Twain
0
Options
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
There are compelling arguments that the "perception limit" for frame rate is mythical or impossible to quantify.
Supposedly the human eye can't really tell the difference over about 60 fps, but having experienced a game as graphically simple as Minecraft at 20 fps, 60 fps, and 320 fps, I can subjectively observe that the difference between the two higher numbers may not have been 'measurable' with the naked eye, but movement within the game certainly seemed 'smoother'.
If I have an extra £50 to spend on my new build, would that be better spent on going from a 6850 to a 7850 or by including a small (60gb) SSD in my build.
This is with an i5-2400 and I have a 22" monitor @ 1920x1080.
Go with the video card upgrade. A 60GB SSD is too small to be useful IMO. I have a 120GB I got back in May and I badly wish I had held out for 240-256GB, since the prices have come down to be about the same now. 60GB will barely hold Windows and a few programs.
I think I'll get a 7850 and then get an SSD next month once I get paid again. If I install Windows on a 128-256gb partition I can always clone it onto the SSD, m i rite?
I think I'll get a 7850 and then get an SSD next month once I get paid again. If I install Windows on a 128-256gb partition I can always clone it onto the SSD, m i rite?
No. Even if the image is cloned correctly your Windows install will not be optimized for use on an SSD. TRIM will be disabled, Defragmentation will be enabled, along with a number of other performance tweaks that Windows 7 does automatically upon installation on an SSD. Most of these can be changed by the user, but it can be time-consuming and tricky. You also won't have the opportunity to place your full Users folders on another drive, a valuable convenience that helps you keep as much space empty in your SSD as possible.
So, I'm posting this from my new rig. I'm having a bit of trouble getting my hard drives to get recognized in windows. They show up in the BIOS, but when I try to boot windows with both drives connected it stalls (compared to the instant boot I get off the SSD)
I finally bought parts and am assembling my computer. I'm plugging stuff in, and wanted to ask about my CoolerMaster RC 371 case with its built-in front panel and my Gigabyte Z77-UDH3 mobo. So I plug in bits for the power and reset switches, the HDD light, and the audio (HD audio plug, not AC '97). For the 1 USB3 port that it has, I plugged it into the mobo's USB 3.0 plug, but for the 1 USB 2.0, the plug is different. On the mobo, the plug is 2 rows of 9 plugs (the left-most one doesn't have a plug, just an empty space) whereas the case's plug is 1 row of 4 plugs (with a space for the 5th, but no plug there). It looks like it will fit fine into the top half of the mobo plug.
Would it be fine to connect the USB 2.0 plug I have into the top half of the plug without the bottom half, or not? Or should I just get the Gigabyte optional front plug to be safe with everything? Thanks for the help!
工事中
0
Options
ArtreusI'm a wizardAnd that looks fucked upRegistered Userregular
Hey, one of my friends wants to play Guild Wars 2 but can I run it or one of those websites is telling her that her graphics card is somewhat lacking.
Turns out she has a Geforce 9100. I looked it up and asked more about it. apparently she has an hp p6310y desktop. Google is telling me that that is an integrated graphics card.
So her solution here would be to get an actual graphics card, right? It looks like the motherboard would support one. It just looks like the other issue she is going to run into is power. That thing also looks to have a 300 watt power supply.
So, are there any affordably priced graphics cards that are going to fall under those power requirements and still run that game? Or is she going to have to swap out the power supply and spend more on a card to get any performance re: video games
I finally bought parts and am assembling my computer. I'm plugging stuff in, and wanted to ask about my CoolerMaster RC 371 case with its built-in front panel and my Gigabyte Z77-UDH3 mobo. So I plug in bits for the power and reset switches, the HDD light, and the audio (HD audio plug, not AC '97). For the 1 USB3 port that it has, I plugged it into the mobo's USB 3.0 plug, but for the 1 USB 2.0, the plug is different. On the mobo, the plug is 2 rows of 9 plugs (the left-most one doesn't have a plug, just an empty space) whereas the case's plug is 1 row of 4 plugs (with a space for the 5th, but no plug there). It looks like it will fit fine into the top half of the mobo plug.
Would it be fine to connect the USB 2.0 plug I have into the top half of the plug without the bottom half, or not? Or should I just get the Gigabyte optional front plug to be safe with everything? Thanks for the help!
Hey, one of my friends wants to play Guild Wars 2 but can I run it or one of those websites is telling her that her graphics card is somewhat lacking.
Turns out she has a Geforce 9100. I looked it up and asked more about it. apparently she has an hp p6310y desktop. Google is telling me that that is an integrated graphics card.
So her solution here would be to get an actual graphics card, right? It looks like the motherboard would support one. It just looks like the other issue she is going to run into is power. That thing also looks to have a 300 watt power supply.
So, are there any affordably priced graphics cards that are going to fall under those power requirements and still run that game? Or is she going to have to swap out the power supply and spend more on a card to get any performance re: video games
Radeon 7750. If possible, get one of the higher clocked versions (880 or 900 Mhz) for best performance. It's basically the best video card that doesn't demand PCI-E power leads.
So, I'm posting this from my new rig. I'm having a bit of trouble getting my hard drives to get recognized in windows. They show up in the BIOS, but when I try to boot windows with both drives connected it stalls (compared to the instant boot I get off the SSD)
So the PC boots with just the SSD, but not with both the SSD and the HDD connected?
Radeon 7750. If possible, get one of the higher clocked versions (880 or 900 Mhz) for best performance. It's basically the best video card that doesn't demand PCI-E power leads.
Dang, single slot thickness, too. Listen to this man, @Artreus.
I finally bought parts and am assembling my computer. I'm plugging stuff in, and wanted to ask about my CoolerMaster RC 371 case with its built-in front panel and my Gigabyte Z77-UDH3 mobo. So I plug in bits for the power and reset switches, the HDD light, and the audio (HD audio plug, not AC '97). For the 1 USB3 port that it has, I plugged it into the mobo's USB 3.0 plug, but for the 1 USB 2.0, the plug is different. On the mobo, the plug is 2 rows of 9 plugs (the left-most one doesn't have a plug, just an empty space) whereas the case's plug is 1 row of 4 plugs (with a space for the 5th, but no plug there). It looks like it will fit fine into the top half of the mobo plug.
Would it be fine to connect the USB 2.0 plug I have into the top half of the plug without the bottom half, or not? Or should I just get the Gigabyte optional front plug to be safe with everything? Thanks for the help!
Plug it into the top row of pins, it'll be fine.
Good to know, just wanted to make sure. Thanks!
工事中
0
Options
ArtreusI'm a wizardAnd that looks fucked upRegistered Userregular
Thanks a bunch for the recommendation!
Is the PCI express 3.0 x16 going to work?
I am bad at hardware, so I'm not sure if the 3.0 is on the card side or the motherboard side
I am bad at hardware, so I'm not sure if the 3.0 is on the card side or the motherboard side
Yep. PCI Express standards are backwards compatible. The card complies to the 3.0 standard, but can talk to the 1.0 slot no worries. It's just that with the newer standards, the amount of data the slot can handle is much greater. If you were to put a really powerful card like a GTX690 in a 1.0 slot, you would 'throttle' the cards performance, because whilst it is capable of computing a staggering amount of data, the slot can only supply a portion of that to the card.
So, I'm posting this from my new rig. I'm having a bit of trouble getting my hard drives to get recognized in windows. They show up in the BIOS, but when I try to boot windows with both drives connected it stalls (compared to the instant boot I get off the SSD)
So the PC boots with just the SSD, but not with both the SSD and the HDD connected?
Well, my 1TB HDD from my last computer is recognized, and I can pull it up and access all the files just fine. However, the other HDD I purchased new is not allowing me to initialize in the disk management menu. It will show up in the BIOS, and I've gotten it to the point where the computer will get to windows with all 3 drives connected, I just cant get it to work.
0
Options
ArtreusI'm a wizardAnd that looks fucked upRegistered Userregular
So guys, should I upgrade my current PC or just go ahead and build a new one? I have a Core 2 Quad Q9550 Intel Processor, 5gigs of DDR2 Corsair ram (240 pin, I think...), and a 280GTX from back in the day. I was thinking what if took out the hard drive and put in an SSD, changed out the ram with 8 gigs of something stupid fast, and got a 6600 GTI...
Or would my CPU be a pretty bad bottle neck and should I just look at getting an entirely new PC while cannibalizing a few choice bits? Also, how long do PSU's last? I've had this particular PSU since 2008 and it is med-high end Antec...
So guys, should I upgrade my current PC or just go ahead and build a new one? I have a Core 2 Quad Q9550 Intel Processor, 5gigs of DDR2 Corsair ram (240 pin, I think...), and a 280GTX from back in the day. I was thinking what if took out the hard drive and put in an SSD, changed out the ram with 8 gigs of something stupid fast, and got a 6600 GTI...
Or would my CPU be a pretty bad bottle neck and should I just look at getting an entirely new PC while cannibalizing a few choice bits? Also, how long do PSU's last? I've had this particular PSU since 2008 and it is med-high end Antec...
Upgrade the GPU (at minimum a 560ti, more if you are comfortable with the budget) and see how you feel about the performance. If you aren't impressed then upgrade the CPU/mobo/RAM. I would not recommend getting more DDR2, it will be more expensive than DDR3 and is a dead end when you decide to upgrade your CPU, which will probably be soonish.
Is there anything wrong with the Agility 3 SSDs? Amazon has a 180GB one for $99.99 and my sister would like a SSD. If it matters, its going in a brand new Macbook Pro.
Hey guys. I'm new to the whole building computers scene. I grew up on PC, switched to mac for college (designs and stuff) now I'd like to build my own gaming rig/workstation. I'm a 3D animator (nothing too intensive) so I'm sure a high end gaming PC would work fine for that. Beat of a processor, lots of RAM, good brutal graphics card. Cause sometimes those scenes ya animate are just so damn dense. Not to mention BEAUTIFUL GAAAAMES!!!
Me and my friend were looking over stuff, he says AMD is the way to go but I keep hearing Intel.
My budget is like 1-2,000. I'd prefer closer to 1,000 if possible but I'm willing to wiggle if necessary. I want a beast that'll last me a while and play some sexy games. I've already got a mouse, keyboard, and monitor.
Hey guys. I'm new to the whole building computers scene. I grew up on PC, switched to mac for college (designs and stuff) now I'd like to build my own gaming rig/workstation. I'm a 3D animator (nothing too intensive) so I'm sure a high end gaming PC would work fine for that. Beat of a processor, lots of RAM, good brutal graphics card. Cause sometimes those scenes ya animate are just so damn dense. Not to mention BEAUTIFUL GAAAAMES!!!
Me and my friend were looking over stuff, he says AMD is the way to go but I keep hearing Intel.
My budget is like 1-2,000. I'd prefer closer to 1,000 if possible but I'm willing to wiggle if necessary. I want a beast that'll last me a while and play some sexy games.
Intel performs better than AMD in almost every situation nowadays. I believe AMD has a better CPU/GPU integration if you were going for a HTPC, but if youre not looking to do that Intel is the way to go.
I dont know how much rendering you do but if you do a lot of it you may benefit from the hyperthreading available on the i7 chips.
CPU:
If you do a lot of rendering:
Do you have any interest in overclocking?
If you dont do a lot of rendering, or you just want to save money:
Do you have any interest in overclocking?
if yes i5 3570k
if no i5 3570
Video Card:
I dont know what resolution you game at, so the 7970 may be beneficial to you, however, if you game at around 1920x1080, this GTX 670 will do you just fine and save you about $85.
Case:
Do you need a full tower?
If no and you want to keep the same look then something like the HAF 922 or the HAF XM. If you wanted to change looks you could go with something like the Corsair 600T or the Fractal Design R4. Really, there are a lot of options in this field, these are just some of the more popular cases. Basically I was looking for a case with solid cable management options and a lower price.
CaptainBeyondI've been out walkingRegistered Userregular
Guys, some years ago SOMEONE (I think it was Atlus, but I'm not sure) released a dual graphics card. That is, a card with two identical chipsets on one card. The whole thing was gold. Its not that MSI thing. Any ideas?
Is a full tower necessary? It would be nice for it to be smaller, but I don't want to sacrifice hardware space if you think that'll be an issue. I'm flexible on just about everything. Also, since I'm new at this I don't know how to overclock. Why wouldnt you want to? Does it make things unstable or is it just a question of cooling?
Posts
Yeah, that would be amazing. Intel probably figures that from the crowd who are interested in overclocking, few will give up on the idea on account of the $70 or so gap between an i5-3570K and a theoretical i3-2130K.
Yeah, that would be amazing. Intel probably figures that from the crowd who are interested in overclocking, few will give up on the idea on account of the $70 or so gap between an i5-3570K and a theoretical i3-2130K.
[/quote]
True, but it's only been 2 generations since you could buy an i3-550 or an i5-650 and OC it till it screamed, and I'd love to be able to see something like that again.
Battle.net
Since you specifically mentioned video encoding it really depends on how much encoding you'll be doing and how tight your budget is. You'll be in the small minority where the i7 actually makes sense, but probably not if it means something like your GPU takes an unreasonable hit due to budgetary reasons.
Just do a clean install using your upgrade copy of Windows 7. As long as you're not using the Vista license that you're "upgrading" from, you're within the EULA.
Battle.net
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821
Only reason I am interested is the 5 year warranty, but I'm not sure if that's worth the extra $100 over this lovely little lady
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131837
I wouldn't now, because I am very careful and easy with my equipment. You just need to gauge how likely it is that you'll use it.
A picture of my workstation at the moment
Thanks @Alecthar
You can see the fanless 460W power supply, 2 x DVD drives which I need because of reasons, and a little tube of arctic silver because I'm pretty sure I didn't put any in when I first built my NAS and it seems to be idling at around 70C which sounds a little high.
http://techreport.com/articles.x/21516
Among their findings: Looking for spiky behavior is interesting, and Multi-GPU (SLI/CXF) jitter is real.
--Mark Twain
This is true. That said, the analysis he does (which isn't by any means perfect, but is interesting) gives some insights into what other metrics might be interesting beyond just average FPS, regardless of how good that is.
--Mark Twain
Supposedly the human eye can't really tell the difference over about 60 fps, but having experienced a game as graphically simple as Minecraft at 20 fps, 60 fps, and 320 fps, I can subjectively observe that the difference between the two higher numbers may not have been 'measurable' with the naked eye, but movement within the game certainly seemed 'smoother'.
This is with an i5-2400 and I have a 22" monitor @ 1920x1080.
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
No. Even if the image is cloned correctly your Windows install will not be optimized for use on an SSD. TRIM will be disabled, Defragmentation will be enabled, along with a number of other performance tweaks that Windows 7 does automatically upon installation on an SSD. Most of these can be changed by the user, but it can be time-consuming and tricky. You also won't have the opportunity to place your full Users folders on another drive, a valuable convenience that helps you keep as much space empty in your SSD as possible.
Battle.net
I finally bought parts and am assembling my computer. I'm plugging stuff in, and wanted to ask about my CoolerMaster RC 371 case with its built-in front panel and my Gigabyte Z77-UDH3 mobo. So I plug in bits for the power and reset switches, the HDD light, and the audio (HD audio plug, not AC '97). For the 1 USB3 port that it has, I plugged it into the mobo's USB 3.0 plug, but for the 1 USB 2.0, the plug is different. On the mobo, the plug is 2 rows of 9 plugs (the left-most one doesn't have a plug, just an empty space) whereas the case's plug is 1 row of 4 plugs (with a space for the 5th, but no plug there). It looks like it will fit fine into the top half of the mobo plug.
Would it be fine to connect the USB 2.0 plug I have into the top half of the plug without the bottom half, or not? Or should I just get the Gigabyte optional front plug to be safe with everything? Thanks for the help!
Turns out she has a Geforce 9100. I looked it up and asked more about it. apparently she has an hp p6310y desktop. Google is telling me that that is an integrated graphics card.
So her solution here would be to get an actual graphics card, right? It looks like the motherboard would support one. It just looks like the other issue she is going to run into is power. That thing also looks to have a 300 watt power supply.
So, are there any affordably priced graphics cards that are going to fall under those power requirements and still run that game? Or is she going to have to swap out the power supply and spend more on a card to get any performance re: video games
Plug it into the top row of pins, it'll be fine.
Radeon 7750. If possible, get one of the higher clocked versions (880 or 900 Mhz) for best performance. It's basically the best video card that doesn't demand PCI-E power leads.
So the PC boots with just the SSD, but not with both the SSD and the HDD connected?
Battle.net
Dang, single slot thickness, too. Listen to this man, @Artreus.
Good to know, just wanted to make sure. Thanks!
Is the PCI express 3.0 x16 going to work?
I am bad at hardware, so I'm not sure if the 3.0 is on the card side or the motherboard side
Yep. PCI Express standards are backwards compatible. The card complies to the 3.0 standard, but can talk to the 1.0 slot no worries. It's just that with the newer standards, the amount of data the slot can handle is much greater. If you were to put a really powerful card like a GTX690 in a 1.0 slot, you would 'throttle' the cards performance, because whilst it is capable of computing a staggering amount of data, the slot can only supply a portion of that to the card.
Well, my 1TB HDD from my last computer is recognized, and I can pull it up and access all the files just fine. However, the other HDD I purchased new is not allowing me to initialize in the disk management menu. It will show up in the BIOS, and I've gotten it to the point where the computer will get to windows with all 3 drives connected, I just cant get it to work.
Or would my CPU be a pretty bad bottle neck and should I just look at getting an entirely new PC while cannibalizing a few choice bits? Also, how long do PSU's last? I've had this particular PSU since 2008 and it is med-high end Antec...
Upgrade the GPU (at minimum a 560ti, more if you are comfortable with the budget) and see how you feel about the performance. If you aren't impressed then upgrade the CPU/mobo/RAM. I would not recommend getting more DDR2, it will be more expensive than DDR3 and is a dead end when you decide to upgrade your CPU, which will probably be soonish.
I'm building a really cheap PC for the inlaws and the man of the house is obsessed with MC and often stays round their house.
This will be with a AMD X4 2.6GHz if that makes much difference.
Me and my friend were looking over stuff, he says AMD is the way to go but I keep hearing Intel.
My budget is like 1-2,000. I'd prefer closer to 1,000 if possible but I'm willing to wiggle if necessary. I want a beast that'll last me a while and play some sexy games. I've already got a mouse, keyboard, and monitor.
I thought I'd post here and get some feedback.
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103960
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131754
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202001
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119234
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148337
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106369
Intel performs better than AMD in almost every situation nowadays. I believe AMD has a better CPU/GPU integration if you were going for a HTPC, but if youre not looking to do that Intel is the way to go.
I dont know how much rendering you do but if you do a lot of it you may benefit from the hyperthreading available on the i7 chips.
CPU:
If you do a lot of rendering:
Do you have any interest in overclocking?
If yes then i7 3770k
If no then i7 3770
If you dont do a lot of rendering, or you just want to save money:
Do you have any interest in overclocking?
if yes i5 3570k
if no i5 3570
Video Card:
I dont know what resolution you game at, so the 7970 may be beneficial to you, however, if you game at around 1920x1080, this GTX 670 will do you just fine and save you about $85.
Motherboard:
Asus P8Z77-V
RAM:
Corsair 8GB DDR3 1600
Case:
Do you need a full tower?
If no and you want to keep the same look then something like the HAF 922 or the HAF XM. If you wanted to change looks you could go with something like the Corsair 600T or the Fractal Design R4. Really, there are a lot of options in this field, these are just some of the more popular cases. Basically I was looking for a case with solid cable management options and a lower price.
PSU:
SLI Setup:
Seasonic X-850
Corsair AX850
Single Card Setup:
I'll let someone else talk about this, I think the Antec Neo 520w is pretty good but admittedly PSUs are my weakest spot.