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Buying a Bicycle
JusticeforPluto
Registered User regular
Registered User regular
So as the title says, I want to get a bicycle. I would use it to commute to my college from my off campus apartment, my ride it on weekends/summers for excessive. Problem is I have no idea on where to start. What should I look for? Whats a good starting price? Commuting on it is my main focus, exercise is second, so I would like to avoid a high price workout bike. Also live in Illinois, so its pretty flat and I would would not need a mountain bike for any reason.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
JusticeforPluto on
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but that might not be important to you.
Edit: It's an Avanti Blade.
Origin: KafkaAU B-Net: Kafka#1778
Go to several local bike stores and tell them exactly what you told us. Comfortable riding geometry is very subjective, and if this is a commuter then you'll likely want something more forgiving than if it was just for pleasure/exercise. You'll probably want at least braze-ons if the bike doesn't come with a rack/panniers, and if you want to ride in the rain, fenders.
http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check
http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker
If buying new, as it will fit the slightly larger commuter tires you want without having to go hybrid, as well as allow for use as a good road bike or light trail/bikepath bike if you start getting into that stuff. That said, go to a few shops and get fitted, as your body determines the best bike for you.
http://www.wrenchscience.com/ for an idea of what you should look for fit-wise.
Note - it's way cheaper to buy used.
Used bike prices will vary depending on where you live. I live in seattle which for some unknown reason has astronomical used bike prices. So a decent commuter can usually be had for around $200-400. Less if you look for the good deals, more if your lazy. I probably wouldn't spend less than $100 or so no matter where you live, unless you know enough to know it's a good deal. Also, when you purchase a used bike, you local bike shop will almost certainly allow you to bring it in and have them service it for some fee. It's usually a pretty good deal, it starts you off with a fully functioning bike, and they can clue you in on the necessary maintenance steps to keep it running well.
When buying a used bike there are several things to consider. I'll try and give a few things to look for, but this is by no means the entire story. That being said it should be enough for you to feel comfortable buying a $200 bike for the first time.
1) Frame size. First and foremost you want to make sure you get a bike that is your size. This used to mean standing over the bike and seeing if your feet touch the ground. It doesn't anymore. Unfortunately this is the hardest part to figure out. Sheldon brown was a fantastic mechanic and the link is for his blog. I linked his article on frame sizing and it is a really good place to start to learn the basics. I recommend doing some reading, then going in and talking to the people at your local bike shop and asking as many questions as you can think of. Bikes are very customizable, so there isn't necessarily one size out there that is the only fit for you, but you want to be pretty close.
2) Frame Material. Bikes can be made out of a few different materials, mainly: Aluminum, steel (of different types), carbon fiber, and titanium. The last two will be very light and very, very expensive. So most likely you will be looking at Aluminum or steel. The typical wisdom is that aluminum tends to ride a little stiffer which makes it more energy efficient (you get less tired), but it is less comfortable. (Side note: aluminum is actually a softer metal than steel, but the way aluminum frames are shaped they will be stiffer than steel frames). I like steel frames, but it's really up to you. The bottom line is that it may or may not even be noticeable to you.
There are many types of steel used in frames. Some are lighter than others. Obviously the lighter ones will be better bikes, but more expensive. For a commuter it doesn't matter at all, because you will almost certainly add a way more weight with racks and bags. EDIT: Speaking of racks, if you do plan on adding one, make sure that the frame you get has the proper eyelets. Otherwise it will be a pain in the ass. For a commuter I would try and find a frame with 2 eyelets in the front, and 2 in the rear.
3) Frame Construction. Like everything you buy, some manufacturers make good items, some make shitty items. Shitty frames will fall apart more quickly. This usually means cracks in the frame; especially at the points where things are welded together. Unfortunately it takes forever to learn by brand name/model name which frames are good and which are bad. I would suggest just looking at whats available in your area and just doing a quick google search on the bike model when you find one you like. In the end, even shitty frames will still last a while. Just make sure and check for any cracks, dings, or bends when you look at a used bike. Any of these things are immediate walk away signals.
4) Wheels. There's a lot of info about what makes a good wheel, but most of it pertains to making the wheel lighter. Since you are using it as a commuter, it doesn't really matter. More spokes tends to mean it will be more resistant to wear/sudden brakes. Less spokes tends to mean it will be lighter and easier to ride. They only thing that you should always check is how straight the wheel is. The quickest way is to lift up the bike, spin the wheel, and watch the distance of the wheel from the brake pads. If it seems to get closer/farther as it spins then the wheel isn't straight (technically it's called being true, not straight). If it seems to waver less than 1/8 of an inch or so it's probably ok, if it's more than you'll probably need a new wheel (which is expensive).
5) Components. This is all of the moving parts on the bike: derailleurs, pedals, brakes, brake levers, shifters, crankset, gears, ect... Test ride any bike you want to buy (especially used) and try out the brakes and shifting. There shouldn't be any noises and it shouldn't feel like things are getting caught anywhere. Similar to frames, there's good brands and bad brands, good models and bad models. Generally bikes were sold with matching parts, meaning all of the parts will have the same brand/set name. Unlike frames there isn't a very large set of brands/sets so it shouldn't be too hard to familiarize yourself with the ranking of nicest to cheapest. You'll want to be somewhere in the middle. Above the cheapest poorly made sets, but below the ultra light weight expensive ones. Shimano, suntour, and compagnolo seem to be the most prevalent.
There's probably some points I missed, but that's enough wall of text for now.
And oh man that is a lot to consider.
For that sort of distance you will probably be OK with pretty much whatever. Try not to buy a supermarket bike, because they are very poor quality (as in things wear out very fast, need adjusting and tweaking significantly more often), but other than that you'll be fine.
Best bet is to try to buy a used bike from a reputable manufacturer. Sit on it and make sure that it is basically comfortable, you aren't bolt upright with your knees hitting the bars as you pedal, and you don't have to do a superman impression to steer.
Another consideration is that if you are leaving this locked up outside it is a good idea to get something that you will not be too cut up about if it is stolen.
If you are literally just riding it a few blocks/day, then yeah, check out craigs list, or your local circular or yard sales. take your smart phone and look up the brand name. Reliable ones are fairly well known, if you can't find a website for the brand, it's probably a turd on wheels. Those can work out fine, but usually don't. I used to work at dick's, and i HATED selling those special buy models. inevitably the customer brought it back in because the brakes sucked, it wouldn't shift well, etc etc. as soon as i tuned it up for free, he/she'd be back in 1-2 weeks later with more problems. you honestly do get what you pay for in a bike.
What you need to figure out is the size of your bike first. Go into a bike shop and ask what size bike someone your height should have.
I bought a Cannondale Bad Boy when I was in Bermuda and I really liked that bike. However, it was way more money than I should've spent and it was way more bike than I really needed for what I was doing.
If you're on a mostly flat terrain and aren't concerned with the joys of long distance riding then you may wan to consider a single geared bike. That's what I purchased for Toronto. There are all kinds of online retailers that will sell you a decent single/fixed gear bike for under $500. I went with Purefix Cycles since they seemed to have a good reputation and were featured in To Live and Ride in LA. You don't need to run it as a fixed gear bike since the back wheel can be flipped around for either fixed or free wheel. It's referred to as a flip-flop hub. I also went with these guys since they had some cool colours but I wouldn't feel like I was riding a bike sponsored by Skittles.
However, that's only really if you want to buy a brand spanking new bicycle. If you want a used one, take advantage of a local bike store and get yourself sized up for a bike. Maybe take a test ride on a bike similar to what you want and then tell the store that you'll have to come back when you have some more money. After that, you'll need to comb through craigslist. Nice bikes tend to get stolen on campuses from what I understand. I didn't own a bike in Uni so I've never had to deal with that issue. But from what I understand you don't want your bike to stand out too much or it'll probably get stolen. That's a major factor in buying a cheap used bike.
When you go to look at the bike make sure that the chain isn't rusted to pieces and the moving parts are in decent working order. You don't want to have to spend a bunch of money fixing and replacing parts on the thing. Rust spots on the frame aren't a major concern as long as it's not out of control. Make sure to buy some decent chain oil. Don't use WD40 as it'll gunk up your chain really quickly.
I'd definitely recommend a single geared bike for the commute. Dealing with gears and derailluers can be a major hassle. Commuting should be all about a simple bike that you can just hop onto and it works.
Also, just say no to all of the hipsters on this thread, and do not get a fixed gear. Otherwise you will become this guy
With your 12 dollar, 3 oz coffee, and your homoerotic thoughts.
I have never used Craig's List, so I'm hesitant to start now. I just don't need the headache of getting shafted/having an unhappy seller. I'll probably look around the local bike stores for a used bike (what I was planning to do). All of you have been very helpful and I know know what to look for.
I'm also leaning towards a multi geared bike. I've ridden those before, and I never fiddled with the gears going short distances. And if I do use it for exercise, the I can increase/decrease the resistance. It's been a while and maybe I was a stupid kid (scratch that, I was) but i remember it being that you could leave your bike on the gear you liked, unlike say a stick-shift car where you would have to start from a low gear and work your way up. Is this still the case? Are both optional available?
Edit- Also, I see you want a geared bike. Extra consideration on quality will have to be taken, because a poorly made bike with gears will pop the chain and get tangled up. That's not something you want in a reliable mode of transportation (experience talking here).
Get a BMX. Simplest bikes around, can take a savage beating and come back for more, and you will only be on the thing for a couple of minutes maximum a day, so you don't even need to worry about ergonomics or whatever.
And if a geared bike might cause more headaches I might go with a fixed gear. So many things to consider, I feel like buying a car was less of a hassle.
And I feel like this will be asked, "why don't you drive if you have a car?"
Many reasons, but most importantly parking at my school is terrible. If your not parked by around 9 you will spend on average about 10-30 minutes looking for a spot.
Thanks for all the advice. Anyone else on advice on fixed versus geared bikes?
If you want a geared bike then you should probably research one that has decent components. Really annoying to have a bike that skips gears, chain comes off, etc.
A BMX is definitely built to take a beating but you'll probably be happier with something that takes 700c wheels. It's just faster to get from A to B on a bike that's actually meant to travel.
You don't necessarily need a fixed gear but I think a single geared bike is preferential when doing a short commute. There's just less maintenance and less than can go wrong during your ride.
If you don't like CL then you don't like CL, buying used bikes from an LBS in my city (Austin) and you basically save nothing over a new bike. Not griping, the LBS probably put a couple hundred in work on the bike, and bikes are in demand in this city, but here that's not the cheap route. I'm much more concerned with buyers than sellers on CL; if you pay the ask they are going to be happy, though I've usually been able to bargain down anything listed for $100 or more.
If it's a short commute with no grade look at single speeds: freewheeled, not fixed gear unless you're fine with always pedaling, no coasting on fixies. You'll never have to adjust a derailleur and you'll never get that chck-chck-chck-chck sound when pedaling while your derailleurs are out of adjustment.
He's not going to go trail riding on a fixie, either... But for a 2 minute ride each way, a BMX is basically a cheap indestructible set of wheels with the absolute minimum possible things to go wrong with it. As for size, I'm 6'1" and I can ride a 20 inch BMX all day. Unless the O.P. learns to ride a unicycle, there's pretty much nothing simpler, or more rugged.
A bmx bike is a fixie. The only difference between what people usually call fixies, and a BMX bike, is that the bmx bike is tiny and probably has more rugged wheels. Honestly, if you aren't doing tricks I'm not sure why you would get a BMX bike. There is no possible way it can be as comfortable as a regular bike. Maybe if you're used to it, or if it's a really short ride, it's no big deal, but I will never believe it is as comfortable as a bike that is properly sized to the rider.
Also, if you do go the fixed gear route, make absolutely sure you still have at least a front brake. You will at some point need to stop quickly, and that simply isn't possible without a front brake.
It sounds like you are going to check out the local bike shop, and that's great. But unless it is unlike any bike shop I've ever been too, their cheapest bike will probably be $400ish and way better than you're looking for right now. You can get much better deals on craigslist, and if you're worried, you can always post the listing here and we can tell you if the bike is crap or not.
The real difference between BMX and a more road-type bike is the way it rides: you cannot get full leg extension on a BMX while sitting the saddle, and jumping the curb and taking the gully or switchback to avoid an intersection is a lot harder on a roadbike than a BMX or MTB. Ride a BMX, ride a road bike, ride a mountainbike, a 29er, a touring/hybrid. It's pretty obvious how they differ in the way you want to ride.
My bad. The wiki page on BMX had a picture of a bike with no brakes. To me that says fixed gear. At any rate, for what the op looks to be doing I think a road bike is the best bet.
Out of curiosity, what's the 29er good for? I've seen a lot more of them in the LBS lately, and I just don't understand what the larger wheels do for you. Is it better for rough terrain? Is it exclusively for bike messengers who will be riding down staircases? What's the deal?
When I got back into riding a couple years ago I might've been happy with a 29er, cause I wanted flat bars, a beefier frame, bigger tires, cause I thought road bikes looked all spindly and fragile* and I figured I'd be riding on grass/trail way more than I do.
Edit: I should add, there's nothing particularly fragile w/r/to road bikes. That was just a perception I had when trying to buy a bike after 20 years not riding, and my previous experience being BMX type bikes.
Angle of attack on trail obstacles is lower, so a 29" wheel rolls better over rough ground and holds speed better.
Also, don't buy a mountain bike or a hybrid for use on the road because you think road bikes are too fragile. "Road bikes" encompasses everything from superlight race machines to touring bikes intended for riding across India on dirt tracks with 50kg of luggage strapped to it. There are also cyclocross bikes, which sit somewhere between road bikes and mountain bikes on the durability spectrum.
Unless you get something with a sub-1kg carbon frameset you are not likely to break anything on a road bike without doing something really over the top. I'm pretty sure I mentioned this last bike thread but I've ridden my Giant Defy down a flight of stairs without issue.
... maybe the fact that I did it going around 20 had something to do with it.
When i say trail riding, i really meant a flat trail. so he could potentially take a full frame fixie out there. I agree, if all he's doing is a 1 mile ride each way, a BMX would be a good option. however, if he and his buddies decide to go on a long ride, he is going to be miserable on a bmx.