Tightening a throwing axe head?

Comradebot

Okay, so this is frustrating... it's always been a weird dream of mine to learn how to properly use throwing axes. So at the Renaissance Fair this past weekend, I snatched up a nice pair of traditional, francisca-style axes from a guy offering free lessons (and then peddling his wares to an overly giddy me)... they were simple but in nice shape, had no issues with em'.

I haven't got a chance to practice with em' yet, and this weekend I went to pick them up to finally have some fun... and one of them has a very, very slight wobble that wasn't there previously (lordy knows how it got it, hadn't thrown the bloody thing yet). Clearly, I'd like to remedy this and get the head nice and tight again, but without compromising its ability to be chunked at things. What are my options? I've heard soaking it in cold liquids can be a temporary solution, but ultimately lead to worse situations, and I've heard that about driving some kind of wedge into it could work... but a handy man I am not (though I do have tools and am capable of using them, just mostly ignorant.)

Is there anything else I could do? I'm absolutely chipper about these axes, I've named them and everything (its Loki that's loose... irony, no?). Could someone explain this whole "drive a wedge into the head" method, and is there anyone who knows whether or not that might negatively effect a throwing axe?

Inquisitor77

I'm not familiar with throwing axes, but I do practice the martial arts with "practical" bladed weapons. There is a very meaningful difference between display weaponry and functional weaponry. Are you certain that what you bought were intended to actually be used regularly? Like, did the guy say that you can use them in your backyard all the time, or was he just like, "Here, have some throwing axes, that'll be $200 (sucker)"? The easiest thing that would let you spot the difference would be the metal composition. If they are shiny, stainless steel axe heads, than you almost certainly have display pieces that shouldn't be thrown ever.

Otherwise, pictures might help the more knowledgeable folks here figure out what you need to do. Based purely on speculation, I assume that throwing axes are designed to be "self-locking" - that is, the wooden end that holds the axe head is always thicker than the hole of the axe head itself, preventing the axe head from flying off of the wood. I'm probably horribly mangling the terminology, but hopefully that makes sense. If you are getting a wobble, that might mean you will need to get new handles, as that could be a sign that the wood is starting to wear thin...

Comradebot

Inquisitor77 wrote: »

Inquisitor77 wrote: »

I'm not familiar with throwing axes, but I do practice the martial arts with "practical" bladed weapons. There is a very meaningful difference between display weaponry and functional weaponry. Are you certain that what you bought were intended to actually be used regularly? Like, did the guy say that you can use them in your backyard all the time, or was he just like, "Here, have some throwing axes, that'll be $200 (sucker)"? The easiest thing that would let you spot the difference would be the metal composition. If they are shiny, stainless steel axe heads, than you almost certainly have display pieces that shouldn't be thrown ever.

Otherwise, pictures might help the more knowledgeable folks here figure out what you need to do. Based purely on speculation, I assume that throwing axes are designed to be "self-locking" - that is, the wooden end that holds the axe head is always thicker than the hole of the axe head itself, preventing the axe head from flying off of the wood. I'm probably horribly mangling the terminology, but hopefully that makes sense. If you are getting a wobble, that might mean you will need to get new handles, as that could be a sign that the wood is starting to wear thin...

They're most certainly not display pieces (they're the same kind I was using during his brief free lessons and that he was tossing when no one was talking to him)... and I've discovered the issue. The heads are held in place by metal wedges between the head and the wooden handle itself along the rim of the eye. One the axe with the faint wobble, the wood is ever so slightly worn around the wedge, resulting in the wobble. I actually tested it out by sliding a guitar pick into the space and it was enough to tighten the axe back up. Think I just need to find a more permanent, likely metal wedge to put in there and it'll be fine.

Here's a pic of the top of the head:

Not the best lighting, but you can still see how the wedge is used to keep the head in place... its just that in the case of this one it isn't enough on its own to stop a wobble. Figure I'll hit up a hardware store sometime this week and find something to wedge into the direction it wants to wobble... and maybe a third wedge on the opposite if it, and give it a nice triangular support if a single extra wedge doesn't do the trick.

supabeast

You should be able to just tap the metal wedge in a little tighter. That’s typically how any wooden handled axe is held together.

Arang

You can also just put a couple of screws down there, that's usually how I've seen axes being held together (aside from just getting a new handle)

Foomy

tap the wedge in a bit more until it tightens up, or insert a new wooden wedge. than fill in the gaps with some epoxy. Won't loosen up again.

Esh

Can't you get ahold of the guy to fix them?

Forbe!

I make hammers and various other tools that have wooden handles. Typically I attach handles by putting 1/16" - 1/8" saw cut directly into the handle, at about 3/4 the length of the handle. I then drive a wedge into the cut to spread the two halves of the handle, which tightens the head onto the handle. You can also then drive a lead/steel wedge cross ways, bridging the wooden wedge/handle to further secure the connection. This is a link to kind of show what I am talking about: link.
Are these fabricated axes (welded?) It appears that the blade is welded to a tube, which is used to grip the handle. It doesn't appear to be a permanent method of attachment, almost as if it is just shimmed in there. I've set my hammers in buckets of water over night to prolong the use of the handle before it needs replacing, but this is usually just a temporary fix.

I could be completely wrong though, as I know next to nothing about traditional throwing axes.