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So my car (95 Maxima) has been getting harder and harder to unlock and I'm wondering if I shouldn't just get it rekeyed. Both driver and passenger side are having the same issue, even with a new key. Has anyone done this and how labor intensive/crazy hard is it? Anyone paid to have it done? If so, any idea on a ballpark estimate? I have a few emails out to local locksmiths but I was kind of hoping to prepare myself for a large bill.
How difficult it will be depends on if it's got an alarm or not. How... mechanically inclined are you? At the very least the interior door panel has to come off.
Since the car was made in '95, I assume the mechanism is entirely mechanical (i.e., no fob, no electronic locking). If so, try spraying a bit of WD-40 in the keyholes before taking more serious measures.
Since the car was made in '95, I assume the mechanism is entirely mechanical (i.e., no fob, no electronic locking). If so, try spraying a bit of WD-40 in the keyholes before taking more serious measures.
Don't use WD40 for lubricating as it isn't truly a lubricant. Try something like this for sticking locks.
It would help if you knew whether it was the lock or the key. Does it still works fine in the ignition? And see if all keys work the same.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
You should be able to get a set of new lockbarrels and keys from Nissan. The door locks are pretty simple to swap out, the ignition barrel a little more complex.
Ignition is fine but I was worried that's where most of the work or cost would come from in rekeying it. I'm going to take a look at some proper "lock lube" this evening after work, I'll report back after that.
The first estimate came back at 250 and change. If it comes to it, I may try and do it myself. I'm fairly mechanically inclined (I've replaced head gaskets, stereos, speakers, can change my own oil, etc. ) I'll report back on the lubricant this evening.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Oh, if you can change a head gasket you can DEFINITELY change out a couple of lock barrels. Is the estimate just for two door lock barrels and two new keys, or for parts and fitting? Because barrel kits should not cost that much, hell, they don't cost that much here in Australia!
It would help if you knew whether it was the lock or the key. Does it still works fine in the ignition? And see if all keys work the same.
Automotive locks use grease as a lubricant by default, most of the time graphite will do nothing but turn that grease dark. Most of the time you end up with it full of road dust/diecast shavings (from the wafers gouging chunks of the cylinder out as the key wears). (Also, as above, WD-40 is not a lubricant, it's just slippery while it's wet.)
On top of Kipling's questions, by "new key" do you mean "a copy I got cut from my old worn out key" or a key cut to code (i.e. back to original heights)? If you can put the key into the lock and move the head up the key up and down as well as in and out, replace them. If you can't, then chances are it's the key that's the problem. Keys are usually brass or nickel, the locks are usually diecast aluminium with nickel or brass wafers, the harder key chews up the bullet wards on the barrel, letting the key flop about.
I've changed stupid amounts of car door locks (I'm a locksmith), some are ridiculously easy to get out (with correct tools/knowing what you're doing) and some take hours even knowing what you should be doing. I don't know the Maxima, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was in the easier end of the scale.
Alright, I found some lock specific lubricant, Lock Ease. I had another key cut (by an actual locksmith because the old new key was cut from the super worn one) and now all is well in the world. Its still looking like something I may need to deal with down the road but the locks are working like there's nothing wrong with them at all.
Thanks for all the replies and ideas. We're good to close!
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Don't use WD40 for lubricating as it isn't truly a lubricant. Try something like this for sticking locks.
It would help if you knew whether it was the lock or the key. Does it still works fine in the ignition? And see if all keys work the same.
The first estimate came back at 250 and change. If it comes to it, I may try and do it myself. I'm fairly mechanically inclined (I've replaced head gaskets, stereos, speakers, can change my own oil, etc. ) I'll report back on the lubricant this evening.
Automotive locks use grease as a lubricant by default, most of the time graphite will do nothing but turn that grease dark. Most of the time you end up with it full of road dust/diecast shavings (from the wafers gouging chunks of the cylinder out as the key wears). (Also, as above, WD-40 is not a lubricant, it's just slippery while it's wet.)
On top of Kipling's questions, by "new key" do you mean "a copy I got cut from my old worn out key" or a key cut to code (i.e. back to original heights)? If you can put the key into the lock and move the head up the key up and down as well as in and out, replace them. If you can't, then chances are it's the key that's the problem. Keys are usually brass or nickel, the locks are usually diecast aluminium with nickel or brass wafers, the harder key chews up the bullet wards on the barrel, letting the key flop about.
I've changed stupid amounts of car door locks (I'm a locksmith), some are ridiculously easy to get out (with correct tools/knowing what you're doing) and some take hours even knowing what you should be doing. I don't know the Maxima, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was in the easier end of the scale.
Steam
Thanks for all the replies and ideas. We're good to close!