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How should I set up my computer?
vhannroy
Registered User regular
Registered User regular
So I am moving to a new place that is smaller than my current one and I am not really sure where to set up my rig. I currently have my set up wall mounted and would like to keep it that way as I have all the hardware for it and have come to enjoy the extra space it gives me. All the mounts I have are full motion brackets so intense angles is not a issue as far as mounting goes. All 3 monitors are 22 inches across.
Below is the Current set up running eyefinity. I would not be against setting it up like this again but want to look at all options.
One of the big problems I am facing is the new place does not have outlets on every wall. Another is that that the largest wall has a big f-ing window in it... not that that is a negative over all just in this context.
Below is the rough layout of the new room.
I was thinking of trying the layout below and building a custom desk to fit that corner but I am afraid the monitor on the right will stick out to much and that it will be to sharp of angles to view the whole screen.
Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
Below is the Current set up running eyefinity. I would not be against setting it up like this again but want to look at all options.
One of the big problems I am facing is the new place does not have outlets on every wall. Another is that that the largest wall has a big f-ing window in it... not that that is a negative over all just in this context.
Below is the rough layout of the new room.
I was thinking of trying the layout below and building a custom desk to fit that corner but I am afraid the monitor on the right will stick out to much and that it will be to sharp of angles to view the whole screen.
Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
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There is no closet door. I live in Alaska so it is pretty bright in the summers and really dark in the winters. The blinds mitigate any direct sunlight.
Extension cords should sufficiently solve any outlet problems you have. You can usually pull up the carpet just enough to run a good (read: with ground) extension cord just along the inside of it, then just plug it in at the nearest outlet. If you're worried about the eye sore of the cord in the outlet, just put a small table and lamp there or something.
http://pinterest.com/shabbybeachnest/closet-desks/
If you convert your closet to a desk area, you'll probably need a wardrobe, but I'm fairly sure IKEA has some cheap ones. Once upon a time, I had a desk that was recessed into a closet, and man was it great for getting into the zone. Some people hate that feeling though, so there's that. It also helps to be a little handy, because its best to build a U to the exact dimensions of the closet.
This would be my choice also even though that is still a tight fit. The position you outlined has the monitors at much to sharp angels unless it is for some sort of 3D project where you plan to put your head inside the "box" of the monitors.
Where is the sun shining during the day and when do you use the computer. Depending how the room is oriented in the world and possibly buildings outside casting shadows this can be important, but in general it is not recommended to be facing or facing away from windows.
My first thought was that wall also but, I have a full size bed so if I put the computer there the bed would either be 2.5 feet between the end of the bed and the desk or I would not be able to fully open the door to the room.
I actually really like that idea but, The closets are done with California closet systems so that is a no go.
Sorry I did not give you guys all the information to start, there was a lot I was trying to convey. I am renting so I can not do any kind of major things to the house. To tell you the truth I am shocked they are letting me mount the monitors.
The lay out of the room is that the 7 foot wall is the east wall. So it is going to get the most ammount of light in the evenings when I use the computer the most. Though again none of it will be direct light.
Thank you for all the advise so far. If the new information gives you any ideas let me know.
So, yeah, definitely be careful with that.
So assuming you are going to put the bed against the 4.5 foot wall (Which would leave you no space to actually access your closet?) You could also get a small corner desk for the left, bottom corner of the room. It does not seem like there's a way for you to not be squished up against your bed in some capacity.
$800 because you don't like the look of an extension cord running around the perimeter of the room? You must have money to burn...
Monoprice offers a bit better pricing:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10325&cs_id=1032511&pn=computer_accessories
You can also find a non mounting (just a stand) for around $300 that will work as well.
Oh and bottle of lotion next to computer in first pic?
Claaaaaaassy
It also looks like shit. Just because you can do it cheaper doesn't meen you should. Also you could convince the rental company to do a drop, it'll add slight value, and most new construction has outlets every 12 feet, and at least one on every wall.
You will burn/melt an extension cord given enough time and enough draw. It won't trip your circuit breakers because the draw is well under what the circuit can handle. But not for the gauge of wire in those cords.
Don't use them for a permanent relocation.
Don't almost all wires have ratings on them? Using an extension cord over it's rating is dangerous for almost any amount of time. Using an extension cord under it's rating won't ever be an issue. There are 20 amp heaters at my work running on extension cords, and have been for 10 years or something. Just be sure it's rated properly and your fine.
Short version: Commercial buildings have a heavier gauge wireing running to outlets than residential wiring.
Long version: Most wiring to your home or apartment outlets is going to be 12 gauge (14 or 16 gauge for lights) if built recently, it may be smaller if it was built cheaply or an older building may use 14 gauge or 16 gauge wire for outlets, and connected to a 40 amp breaker. A 20 amp circuit at 12 gauge wiring can go 50 feet (there and back hense circuit) before NEC requires you go 10 gauge. In a house you are going to be looking at a 20 foot conduit run to the box (40 foot circuit), and 4 foot of coord length (8 foot circuit), so unless you are using a 1 foot extension coord, or the panel is in the room you are going to be outside of code. A commercial building like the one I'm currently in has 6 gauge and 8 gauge electrical wire connected to a 240 amp breaker. So I can run a space heater from an extension coord for years with seamingly little effect because the resistance is going to be much lower than an apartment or house, it's still not a good idea though.
Why does this matter? Distance increases resistance, and electrical resistance causes heat.
Or, it may be time to opt for a fold-able cot/smaller bed. (sucks, but would make the space less cramped.
Extension coords cause fires.
Anywho, as was said, since he's renting it might be hard to get a new outlet.
I'd be tempted to put it in the bottom right corner of the room if you don't mind your back to the door. 2.5 feet between the end of the bed and the edge of the desk should be okay, no? Most of your body is underneath the desk when using it.
So we learned nothing from Wild Bill Hickock?
Your extension cord will have 0 effect on the heat generated by the wiring in your walls. The only thing that will effect the heat generated by the wires in your walls are the amps you are pulling and the voltage used. You should be able to find out what the maximum amperage rating your outlets/buiilding wiring is set up for. It probably isn't the same number as the breaker amperage, but there must be a way to determine that number. After that you only have to worry about not going over the amperage rating for your particular extension cord. This should be written either on the cord or on the little not thingy buy the plug. As long as you are not exceeding or right at either of those numbers you are fine.
Look, heat generated is not passed between an extension cord and the cabling in your wall. Think about an electrical oven. It is basically just wiring. All the way from your breaker into your oven. The wires in your oven have certain resistances and get very hot. The wires in your wall have certain resistances and do not get hot. There is no heat transfer between them. Increasing the resistance of the circuit does NOT mean you are increasing the heat generated at every point in the circuit, unless there is facile heat transfer everywhere.
edit- also wiring has ratings for a reason. There is a reason why the ratings for your wall cabling is given in amps/volts and not the resistance of the load plugged into the outlet. If you know all of the ratings for every section of cable, and you are not exceeding or close to exceeding any of them, there is no reason to believe there will be any issue whatsoever. That's why the ratings are there.
The OP has stated they're in an apartment, and aren't allowed to modify the wiring like that.
A drop is out.
But the point about the risk of using an extension cord is still a valid one.
They do make industrial grade extension cords, that are designed for long term use, however. Find a hardware store, get one, and maybe do some research into what grade you'll want.
Of course, you can always do an external drop. Basically use the grade of wiring you'd use if you were making a drop, and cut the ends and make an extension cord out of that. It's still not as a good as a full drop, but it's probably better than just running a run-of-the-mill extension cord.
Your right in that a single wire, of a set gauge, has a amperage rating for a given distance. The wire in your wall is a single wire, and the wire in the extension cord is a separate wire. Thus two ratings. There is no section of the NEC code that says anything about what you can plug in to a receptacle based on the gauge of the wall wiring. The only thing it says is what amperage you can draw. That amperage has 0 to do with an extension cable. You are wrong here.
edit - I should say though that the NEC does recommend that you only ever use extension cords as a temporary solution and not as permanent wiring. The junctions for extension cords are less secure and extension cords in general are more prone to wear and tear.
Plugging into a wall extends the circuit. It is 3 wires in the extension coord a hot a neutral and a ground you are extending those. That is all. Nec tells you not to use extension cords period. Here is a handy guide on what increases wire resistance.
http://www.physicsclassroom.com/Class/circuits/u9l3b.cfm
What is your point? Obviously the resistance of your load will change when using an extension cord. The point is that has nothing to do with the safety ratings. The safety rating of the wiring in your wall, and your electrical outlet, is in amps. Similarly the safety rating of an extension cord that you buy is in amps. As long as the amps you are using for your circuit does not go above either of these ratings you are operating safely. For residential buildings a safe bet is that a single plug is safely rated for 12A of current. If you buy an extension cord that is rated for 15A of current, and you only draw 10A you are fine.
You are right though that everyone says it's not a good idea to use extension cords as permanent wiring.
As you can tell I went with by the door for a few reasons. First and foremost that I did not want my back to the door. Secondly I would have to have used a extension cord or moved an outlet to meet criteria one. I am however going to be talking to the owner to see about getting and outlet put in/ moved to outside the closet where I have the setup.
Thank you everyone for all the advise you gave!