The new forums will be named Coin Return (based on the most recent vote)! You can check on the status and timeline of the transition to the new forums here.
Please vote in the Forum Structure Poll. Polling will close at 2PM EST on January 21, 2025.
Ok I am not sure how much help I will find here, but hopefully someone around here is an auto junkie. I drive a 95 Mazda MX-6, manual transmission 4-cylinder. I was driving home last night, and I notice my battery warning light comes on. I pull over shut my car off try to restart it, and it starts right up. It is raining pretty hard so I figure that it is a false indicator from the rain and I get back on the road. Then my engine temperature starts going up and up, to the point of almost redlining. When idling the rpms also fluctuate from 500 rpms (normal for idling) to about 1500 rpms. It is behaving as if I were repeatedly tapping the gas. I pull over again and check my fluids, my oil and antifreeze are both low. I add a quart of oil and top off my antifreeze. The battery was also slightly warm to the touch. Problem persists. To give you a little background just a day or two ago I had the starter replaced and a new clip for one of the battery cables put on. I drove about 80 miles before I started seeing these issues. Any ideas? To sum up:
* Battery warning light is on, but car starts up fine.
* As I drive the engine temp slowly climbs to redline.
* When idling, my rpms fluctuate.
Well, first and foremost, your engine is NOT going to explode.
Secondly, I would change your fluids out and look for improvement. If there is none, I would take it into the shop, but preferably not the same one you just visited and ask for a diagnosis.
Make sure that the wires and stuff going to the battery are on there tight. Mine did damn near the same thing not too long ago because the negative terminal wire was lose.
Drag it back to the people who replaced your starter. If You don't trust them, get reccomendations from friends (especially older friends if you have any or family... someone that has an established relationship with a good car fixy place). Tell them whats going on. Somebody might have screwed up.
Well I do trust the place I originally took it. The owner and operator is kind of a family friend and they have done a lot of work on a lot of cars for my family. So my current plan is to change all my fluids (and double check the battery connectors) and if the problem still exists, take it back to the same shop. Any other advice is more than welcome though.
For those interested I have come to the conclusion that my belt running the alternator and water pump snapped. Oops. It had been squeaking for a while. Taking it in to the shop tomorrow.
If you're changing the belt, it might be a good idea to change the pump AND the timing belt. They all tend to go at the same time, they're MUCH easier to fix at the same time, and you don't want your timing belt snaping when you're on the highway. Depending on the car, it can mean very very expensive damage.
If you trust him, ask your car guy when you take it in.
Everywhereasign on
"What are you dense? Are you retarded or something? Who the hell do you think I am? I'm the goddamn Batman!"
Looks like he snapped the serpentine belt NOT the timing belt. If you had snapped the timing belt the car would be going nowhere.
The low coolant level could be because of boil-over. The low oil could just be because you haven't changed it or checked it recently. Change the belt out, get a coolant flush and oil change, and see what happens. You're probably looking at a $350 bill or so for the whole deal, depending on the labor rate and other complications.
ShogunHair long; money long; me and broke wizards we don't get alongRegistered Userregular
edited March 2007
Fforde if that doesn't fix your idle oddity then that part might be your idle control valve. It isn't serious but if that new belt doesn't fix it post back here its a simple fix.
After getting the belt changed but before a flush or fluid change, you'll want to make sure your pump's on. While the vehicle is cool, remove the radiator cap and the reservoir cap. Start the vehicle and watch the fluid in the radiator and the reservoir. There should be a significant amount of motion. If there isn't any, your water pump is shot and the fluid cannot circulate through your radiator.
Make sure your fan is running, too. Sometimes fan motors can go bad but more often it's a simple, $5 relay that's easy to replace.
NEVER REMOVE THE CAP FROM A HOT RADIATOR. IT WILL KILL YOU, YOUR CAR, AND EVERYONE IN A 5 MILE RADIUS.
Yeah fan's are working properly. As far as the water pump goes, the gear that the (broken) belt attaches to does not spin very smoothly and squeaks pretty badly when I turn it by hand, so I am going to go ahead and have that replaced. It is the factory pump anyway after 140k miles, from what I have read that is a pretty good run for a water pump. I am still a little worried about the inconsistent idling though. Could this have to do with a kink in my timing belt or something? I suppose it could be the idle control valve like you mentioned Shogun, but I think it'd be a pretty big coincidence for it to start to have problems the same time a belt snaps like this.
Yeah fan's are working properly. As far as the water pump goes, the gear that the (broken) belt attaches to does not spin very smoothly and squeaks pretty badly when I turn it by hand, so I am going to go ahead and have that replaced. It is the factory pump anyway after 140k miles, from what I have read that is a pretty good run for a water pump. I am still a little worried about the inconsistent idling though. Could this have to do with a kink in my timing belt or something? I suppose it could be the idle control valve like you mentioned Shogun, but I think it'd be a pretty big coincidence for it to start to have problems the same time a belt snaps like this.
I'd feel the same way you might check with a mechanic. My previous car had a crazy idle sometimes so that's how I found out about the ICV. What kind of car is yours? If you can get an engine code.
As long as the vehicle isn't racing or stalling, I wouldn't be too concerned about the idle speed. Keep in mind the car's 15 years old. Sure, you can fix it if you have the money and time but a seeking idle isn't an urgent issue and as long as you keep the car well maintained, never will be.
There's a chance that the problem might be dirty or worn fuel injectors causing an inconsistent spray. You could try some fuel injector cleaner. It's less than $5 a bottle and shouldn't have any negative effects. If the fuel injectors are dirty, the cleaner should improve the problem noticably. Use another bottle in your next fill-up. If the injectors are worn, they'll need replaced. New injectors might also increase your gas mileage, if your old ones were worn out.
Good call on getting the pump replaced before your radiator boiled over, by the way.
I'd feel the same way you might check with a mechanic. My previous car had a crazy idle sometimes so that's how I found out about the ICV. What kind of car is yours? If you can get an engine code.
1995 Mazda MX-6 (4-Cyl. Model). I don't know what you mean by engine code though.
As a mech assistant, all I can really say is if you car gets 'redline' on your temp gauage as you say, do NOT fucking drive it, at all. Period. Even for a few mins if its to this point. Also, if this ever happens again, do NOT NOT put water into your engine, even if its bone dry. Cold (room temp) water will casue metal to warp and crack instantly. This is how I've seen every warped head/cracked block case, which you do not want.
My guess is something is wrong with getting water to your car in some way, as in gasket leak, hose issues, pump, radiator. Its a lot to check, so I reccomend a mech, and please, for your wallets sake, not a stealership.
As a mech assistant, all I can really say is if you car gets 'redline' on your temp gauage as you say, do NOT fucking drive it, at all. Period. Even for a few mins if its to this point. Also, if this ever happens again, do NOT NOT put water into your engine, even if its bone dry. Cold (room temp) water will casue metal to warp and crack instantly. This is how I've seen every warped head/cracked block case, which you do not want.
My guess is something is wrong with getting water to your car in some way, as in gasket leak, hose issues, pump, radiator. Its a lot to check, so I reccomend a mech, and please, for your wallets sake, not a stealership.
Good luck!
Yep, as I mentioned above, it was the belt running the water pump. And no I did not run it at readline, I pulled over immediately. I would have hated to have my engine seize up on me. ><
Well I am not doing the work, I took it to the shop, but that's funny you say that, the head gasket was actually not okay.
Out of curiosity, what would cause a head gasket to go? Is there some kind of preventative maintenance that promotes long life of the head gasket (and the water pump for that mater).
Edit: Actually answer your question. Not really. You can flush and clean the cooling system out using stuff you can buy at the store. I usually do it at the start of summer to get all the rust and crap out of the cooling channels in the engine. I feel it helps. As for the water pump, you can't really maintance it. It's just a belt driven impeller. When they go, they go. The head gasket is a gasket that seals the block to the head. Or rather, the top to the bottom...kinda. That's not completly correct but it's good enough. A couple of different things can cause the head gasket to go. Overheating, detonation, various other factors. Overheating is the biggest one. My half sister blew her's twice because her car was overheating something fierce. It was awesome. A huge cloud of smoke and steam all over the place. It's all kind of tied to the overall health of the engine really. Like, my mom's water pump went out at about 100,000 miles for no reason but my crown vic has 216,000 miles and the only thing I've done is basic maintance. And I beat on that thing like you wouldn't believe. You'd really be suprised how much showing your car a lil love can do for it.
Posts
Secondly, I would change your fluids out and look for improvement. If there is none, I would take it into the shop, but preferably not the same one you just visited and ask for a diagnosis.
If you trust him, ask your car guy when you take it in.
The low coolant level could be because of boil-over. The low oil could just be because you haven't changed it or checked it recently. Change the belt out, get a coolant flush and oil change, and see what happens. You're probably looking at a $350 bill or so for the whole deal, depending on the labor rate and other complications.
Shogun Streams Vidya
Make sure your fan is running, too. Sometimes fan motors can go bad but more often it's a simple, $5 relay that's easy to replace.
NEVER REMOVE THE CAP FROM A HOT RADIATOR. IT WILL KILL YOU, YOUR CAR, AND EVERYONE IN A 5 MILE RADIUS.
I have the 'heating up' problem you have, but that's just because my car has a slow leak in the radiator.
I'd feel the same way you might check with a mechanic. My previous car had a crazy idle sometimes so that's how I found out about the ICV. What kind of car is yours? If you can get an engine code.
Shogun Streams Vidya
There's a chance that the problem might be dirty or worn fuel injectors causing an inconsistent spray. You could try some fuel injector cleaner. It's less than $5 a bottle and shouldn't have any negative effects. If the fuel injectors are dirty, the cleaner should improve the problem noticably. Use another bottle in your next fill-up. If the injectors are worn, they'll need replaced. New injectors might also increase your gas mileage, if your old ones were worn out.
Good call on getting the pump replaced before your radiator boiled over, by the way.
My guess is something is wrong with getting water to your car in some way, as in gasket leak, hose issues, pump, radiator. Its a lot to check, so I reccomend a mech, and please, for your wallets sake, not a stealership.
Good luck!
Out of curiosity, what would cause a head gasket to go? Is there some kind of preventative maintenance that promotes long life of the head gasket (and the water pump for that mater).
Edit: Actually answer your question. Not really. You can flush and clean the cooling system out using stuff you can buy at the store. I usually do it at the start of summer to get all the rust and crap out of the cooling channels in the engine. I feel it helps. As for the water pump, you can't really maintance it. It's just a belt driven impeller. When they go, they go. The head gasket is a gasket that seals the block to the head. Or rather, the top to the bottom...kinda. That's not completly correct but it's good enough. A couple of different things can cause the head gasket to go. Overheating, detonation, various other factors. Overheating is the biggest one. My half sister blew her's twice because her car was overheating something fierce. It was awesome. A huge cloud of smoke and steam all over the place. It's all kind of tied to the overall health of the engine really. Like, my mom's water pump went out at about 100,000 miles for no reason but my crown vic has 216,000 miles and the only thing I've done is basic maintance. And I beat on that thing like you wouldn't believe. You'd really be suprised how much showing your car a lil love can do for it.