Help me car engine

Elin

You might remember me from a recent thread about buying a new car. I bought that, this isn't about that car. This is about my 2004 Chevy Aveo. Today it wouldn't start. I opened the hood and there are hoses that are fucking split. I have NO CLUE what these hoses are, perhaps one of you can tell me what I'm looking at. (PS It did end up starting and driving, but I'm guessing that it's something I want to do with hoses falling apart.

The fat hose with the bumps coming out of that box is split in between those ridges. The box says something about coolants under pressure?




I think you can see what is split here, it's the bumpy hose that's Y shaped between the battery and whatever that other box it behind it.

I should learn to car, this is ridiculous.

Jebus314

IANAM and all that. The one hooked up to your battery is electrical cabling so no real worries there. At most you might throw some electrical tape around the hole to prevent arcing, but I would be real surprised if all of the cables didn't have secondary shielding anyway.

As for the first image that looks like the air filter to me, which would make the hose for the air intake. It's not great to have a bunch of dirt coming into your pistons. This is something that won't have much effect until your pistons are destroyed and then your fucked. Good news is that since it's just an air line you can probably just drive to auto zone or whatever, take it off, show it to them/get a replacement, put new one on, and you're good to go. In other words I'm guessing it's probably pretty easy to replace.

IcyLiquid

Yeah, that box on the left is called the "air box" and basically just contains a flat air filter to purify air going into the engine for combustion.
Everything @Jebus314 said is correct.

Heffling

First Picture:

The big black thing on the left is your air filter box. The large diameter plastic tube coming out of the back of it goes to your throttle body (silver thing on the right). I assume that this is not the hose you're talking about.

The other hose that you see prominently in the middle of this picture appears to be a radiator line. That thing at the front of the picture (bottom of the frame) looks to be your water pump, in which case this is part of the circulation system. I am guessing, but I think the thicker section and metal couplings are because it rests on your engine, which can get very hot, and not for any other purposes. If the smallest diameter hose is showing cracking, it will need to be replaced. If it's only the larger portions damaged, you can ignore it.

This is why the tank the line runs to says not to open if the car is hot, because pressurized coolant can heat up while still being a fluid, and flash to steam once the pressure drops. For reference, the boiling point of water at 45 psig (roughly 4 atmospheres) is 291°F. So when you open the line, the pressure drops to 0 psig (14.7 psia) and the water is now heated to above the boiling point and flashes to steam.

Second Picture

The hose you're looking at in the second picture is not meant to be water tight. It's designed with a slit down one side so that it can be slipped over your electrical cables, and principally acts to prevent wear on the insulation of the cables by rubbing. Where's it's showing the big split may be from getting shoved into the nearby corner at times.

BEFORE YOU PROCEED FURTHER: Make sure you disconnect the red lead on the battery to prevent an accidental electrical injury.

I would examine the insulation underneath. If it's not damaged, you are safe. If it is, you can remove some of the outer casing and wrap in electrical wire until you can get a proper replacement.

If you notice on the left, the silver thing there is (I think) your distributor. The wires there are exposed at the end, because the wiring utilized typically has two layers of insulation. The outer layer, as a bundle, and an inner layer for each wire. Main electrical lines like off of the battery are given a third plastic cover to prevent abrasive wear.

Elin

Heffling wrote: »

First Picture:

The big black thing on the left is your air filter box. The large diameter plastic tube coming out of the back of it goes to your throttle body (silver thing on the right). I assume that this is not the hose you're talking about.

The other hose that you see prominently in the middle of this picture appears to be a radiator line. That thing at the front of the picture (bottom of the frame) looks to be your water pump, in which case this is part of the circulation system. I am guessing, but I think the thicker section and metal couplings are because it rests on your engine, which can get very hot, and not for any other purposes. If the smallest diameter hose is showing cracking, it will need to be replaced. If it's only the larger portions damaged, you can ignore it.

This is why the tank the line runs to says not to open if the car is hot, because pressurized coolant can heat up while still being a fluid, and flash to steam once the pressure drops. For reference, the boiling point of water at 45 psig (roughly 4 atmospheres) is 291°F. So when you open the line, the pressure drops to 0 psig (14.7 psia) and the water is now heated to above the boiling point and flashes to steam.

Second Picture

The hose you're looking at in the second picture is not meant to be water tight. It's designed with a slit down one side so that it can be slipped over your electrical cables, and principally acts to prevent wear on the insulation of the cables by rubbing. Where's it's showing the big split may be from getting shoved into the nearby corner at times.

BEFORE YOU PROCEED FURTHER: Make sure you disconnect the red lead on the battery to prevent an accidental electrical injury.

I would examine the insulation underneath. If it's not damaged, you are safe. If it is, you can remove some of the outer casing and wrap in electrical wire until you can get a proper replacement.

If you notice on the left, the silver thing there is (I think) your distributor. The wires there are exposed at the end, because the wiring utilized typically has two layers of insulation. The outer layer, as a bundle, and an inner layer for each wire. Main electrical lines like off of the battery are given a third plastic cover to prevent abrasive wear.

Nope @Heffling it is that large diameter hose that's cracked in the first picture. In between those accordion looking rings.

Elin

Looking at Air Intake Hoses on the Internet it definitely is the part I need. I can put together Ikea furniture and replace a computer power supply so hopefully I can replace a hose on my car.

Pantshandshake

Try to not drop screws into your car's bowels.

And clean those leaves out, up by your windshield.

Heffling

That black plastic bit attached to the front side of the air intake hose should be your air flow guage. Be careful with it, as they can be easily damaged and alot of your car's electronic stuff uses that signal to function correctly.

Good luck!

Bendery It Like Beckham

Chances are the air box being cracked has nothing to do with the car not starting. Is it turning over?

JRosey

Yeah cracked hoses do not make a car not start. Check your battery, starter plugs, ignition first. Does the car go "click click click"? Does it sound like it really want's to start but just won't?

illig

1st pic is air intake. Dealer only part (or online, etc)

2nd pic is split loom. As the name suggests, it's supposed to be split.

Describe what the car was doing when not starting earlier and we might be able to help. I.e. you turned the key and.....?

Elin

The car went whir whir whir but didn't turn over. Then I let it whir longer and it turned over and started. I drove it around the lot, parked, turned it off, then let it sit for 30 seconds and restarted it. It started right up.

I don't know if it makes a difference but I last drove it Friday afternoon and it didn't want to start Monday morning. It rained pretty much all day every day all weekend (I'm in Colorado). No flooding here so it wasn't submerged. And my husband just went down and tried it and it started right away no issues.

Battery is less than a year old. No warning lights on my dash. All the electrical systems worked even when it wasn't starting. Checked the oil and it was at a good level. No puddles of anything under the car.

Bendery It Like Beckham

Elin wrote: »

The car went whir whir whir but didn't turn over. Then I let it whir longer and it turned over and started. I drove it around the lot, parked, turned it off, then let it sit for 30 seconds and restarted it. It started right up.

I don't know if it makes a difference but I last drove it Friday afternoon and it didn't want to start Monday morning. It rained pretty much all day every day all weekend (I'm in Colorado). No flooding here so it wasn't submerged. And my husband just went down and tried it and it started right away no issues.

Battery is less than a year old. No warning lights on my dash. All the electrical systems worked even when it wasn't starting. Checked the oil and it was at a good level. No puddles of anything under the car.

Probably just need to change your fuel filter, if it hasn't been changed in a while and you let it sit, may have to turn over a few times before fuel actually get in the engine. Or spark plugs/wires.

Donovan Puppyfucker

You needn't worry about the harness wrap. It'll be just fine like that for another 20 years.

The split intake hose is an entirely different matter.

The electrical connector plug nearest the airbox is the connector for a thing called an air flow meter (AFM). The engine control module (ECM) uses the signal from the AFM to know how much air is going into the engine, and how much fuel to inject to ensure the correct mixture. With the hose split, the engine will be taking in more air than the ECM thinks, and so your fuel mixtures will be lean. Lean mixtures can cause high cylinder temperatures which lead to pre-ignition (knocking), and all the damage that comes with that.

Have that hose replaced as soon as possible. Replace the hose clamps at the same time, and have a thorough look over the rest of the hoses in the engine bay, because when one goes that means the rest of the original hoses are getting old, too.

Elin

chrishallett83 wrote: »

You needn't worry about the harness wrap. It'll be just fine like that for another 20 years.

The split intake hose is an entirely different matter.

The electrical connector plug nearest the airbox is the connector for a thing called an air flow meter (AFM). The engine control module (ECM) uses the signal from the AFM to know how much air is going into the engine, and how much fuel to inject to ensure the correct mixture. With the hose split, the engine will be taking in more air than the ECM thinks, and so your fuel mixtures will be lean. Lean mixtures can cause high cylinder temperatures which lead to pre-ignition (knocking), and all the damage that comes with that.

Have that hose replaced as soon as possible. Replace the hose clamps at the same time, and have a thorough look over the rest of the hoses in the engine bay, because when one goes that means the rest of the original hoses are getting old, too.

We're picking up the hose tomorrow, Auto Zone has it in stock per their site.

Bendery It Like Beckham

chrishallett83 wrote: »

You needn't worry about the harness wrap. It'll be just fine like that for another 20 years.

The split intake hose is an entirely different matter.

The electrical connector plug nearest the airbox is the connector for a thing called an air flow meter (AFM). The engine control module (ECM) uses the signal from the AFM to know how much air is going into the engine, and how much fuel to inject to ensure the correct mixture. With the hose split, the engine will be taking in more air than the ECM thinks, and so your fuel mixtures will be lean. Lean mixtures can cause high cylinder temperatures which lead to pre-ignition (knocking), and all the damage that comes with that.

Have that hose replaced as soon as possible. Replace the hose clamps at the same time, and have a thorough look over the rest of the hoses in the engine bay, because when one goes that means the rest of the original hoses are getting old, too.

Oh snap, i didn't notice the sensor there... I'm used to that being on the throttle body

Elin

Bendery It Like Beckham wrote: »

chrishallett83 wrote: »

You needn't worry about the harness wrap. It'll be just fine like that for another 20 years.

The split intake hose is an entirely different matter.

The electrical connector plug nearest the airbox is the connector for a thing called an air flow meter (AFM). The engine control module (ECM) uses the signal from the AFM to know how much air is going into the engine, and how much fuel to inject to ensure the correct mixture. With the hose split, the engine will be taking in more air than the ECM thinks, and so your fuel mixtures will be lean. Lean mixtures can cause high cylinder temperatures which lead to pre-ignition (knocking), and all the damage that comes with that.

Have that hose replaced as soon as possible. Replace the hose clamps at the same time, and have a thorough look over the rest of the hoses in the engine bay, because when one goes that means the rest of the original hoses are getting old, too.

Oh snap, i didn't notice the sensor there... I'm used to that being on the throttle body

Yeah the break is between the sensor and the throttle body.

Donovan Puppyfucker

Bendery It Like Beckham wrote: »

chrishallett83 wrote: »

You needn't worry about the harness wrap. It'll be just fine like that for another 20 years.

The split intake hose is an entirely different matter.

The electrical connector plug nearest the airbox is the connector for a thing called an air flow meter (AFM). The engine control module (ECM) uses the signal from the AFM to know how much air is going into the engine, and how much fuel to inject to ensure the correct mixture. With the hose split, the engine will be taking in more air than the ECM thinks, and so your fuel mixtures will be lean. Lean mixtures can cause high cylinder temperatures which lead to pre-ignition (knocking), and all the damage that comes with that.

Have that hose replaced as soon as possible. Replace the hose clamps at the same time, and have a thorough look over the rest of the hoses in the engine bay, because when one goes that means the rest of the original hoses are getting old, too.

Oh snap, i didn't notice the sensor there... I'm used to that being on the throttle body

The electrical plug on the throttle body is almost always a throttle position sensor (TPS).