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[Computer Build Thread] - What happens if I stick my screwdriver th- *bzzt*
Can anyone give me advice on buying a motherboard. I've just bought a GTX 970 and am looking at an i5 4690K, but have no idea about motherboards. Ideally I'd like to keep costs down with the motherboard, but still allow for some very slight overclocking. Was looking at stuff like the MSI Z97 PC MATE or Gigabyte GA-Z97P-D3, but might it be worth paying a bit more for something better?
I've got the MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition mobo. The feature list is pretty decent and a step above the MATE for not a lot of cost difference.
Okay, it's up and running, sort of. When I turned it on and the ASUS BIOS Utility came up, it says my CPU Fan Speed is hovering around 560-590 RPM, and the text is red. Is that bad? If so, how do I fix it?
The CPU temperature is about 30C/86F, but I'm not really "doing" anything with the computer yet.
Asus motherboards have minimum fan speed alarms that you just need to configure in BIOS what the minimum threshold should be. Everytime I update my BIOS I have to fix that on mine.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
0
Hi I'm Vee!Formerly VH; She/Her; Is an E X P E R I E N C ERegistered Userregular
Reporting in from the new computer!
Holy shit this thing boots quickly...
+10
Hi I'm Vee!Formerly VH; She/Her; Is an E X P E R I E N C ERegistered Userregular
Okay, it's up and running, sort of. When I turned it on and the ASUS BIOS Utility came up, it says my CPU Fan Speed is hovering around 560-590 RPM, and the text is red. Is that bad? If so, how do I fix it?
The CPU temperature is about 30C/86F, but I'm not really "doing" anything with the computer yet.
It's probably because it's out of some pre defined range. It probably think the fan speed is way too low or something.
If your cpu temps are where they need to be then I wouldn't worry. Try stress testing your cpu to make sure your fan controller is doing what it needs to do.\
I'm seeing a number of stress-testing programs in my google search, any in particular that people prefer?
0
Hi I'm Vee!Formerly VH; She/Her; Is an E X P E R I E N C ERegistered Userregular
Also, I've installed all the drivers that came with my motherboard, and the GPU drivers, are there any I'm forgetting?
Prime95 will stress your CPU, but it's not really realistic either. x264 is a more realistic stress, on the other hand. Take your pick. It's mainly personal preference unless you need to hammer your CPU to max for hours on end.
One of the linpack tests like intelburntest will max your cpu heat in a few minutes, way easier then running prime95, and gives you data to let you know that your cpu is stable.
But it will also put way more stress on a cpu then it will ever see in real use, so really only good for testing stability of overclocks or just how well your cooler works.
Can anyone give me advice on buying a motherboard. I've just bought a GTX 970 and am looking at an i5 4690K, but have no idea about motherboards. Ideally I'd like to keep costs down with the motherboard, but still allow for some very slight overclocking. Was looking at stuff like the MSI Z97 PC MATE or Gigabyte GA-Z97P-D3, but might it be worth paying a bit more for something better?
In the meantime I've had a look at the MSI Z97 Guard-Pro and then slightly more expensive the ASRock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer and MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition.
I really only need a basic board, no SLI or anything required.
The 8 pin cpu power socket location. In my case it makes it really hard to install fans on the inside of the top of the case.
and
If you allow you computer to sleep and when you attempt it 'wake' it up it wont send power to the video card, forcing you to effectively hard reset your bios.
Choosing a mobo is odd nowadays. What I look for is how future proof it is and if I can overclock with it.
0
TraceGNU Terry Pratchett; GNU Gus; GNU Carrie Fisher; GNU Adam WeRegistered Userregular
No no no, you gotta have a box to put all that shit in so your significant other can complain about that box of random computer parts that never get used.
+16
Hi I'm Vee!Formerly VH; She/Her; Is an E X P E R I E N C ERegistered Userregular
I have a question about monitors.
Currently, I have 2 monitors: an ASUS VK246H I bought many years ago, and an Acer G246HL I bought a couple of years ago.
Given that they're two monitors from different brands, it's probably no surprise that they look a lot different display-wise. I like the ASUS better; the Acer is a bit too bright/white for me.
What I'd like to do is buy one more monitor that matches one or the other of these, and use the leftover monitor to hook up to my work computer when I work from home. So the question is which monitor to pair up, or should I go for broke and buy two new monitors that are the same brand and model.
1) Pair with the ASUS: They don't make the VK246H anymore, now it's the VK248H, which is $199 on Newegg. I figure the two are similar enough that this would probably work, but a lot of the reviews for the VK248H on Newegg say that it starts humming loudly after a year or two. Also, my VK246H is probably 5 years old by now, so who knows how much longer it'll last.
2) Pair with the Acer: Newegg is offering a deal on an Acer G246HYL right now for $129, which is a great price. However, the reviews are pretty dismal, talking a lot about light bleeding and whatnot. Also, I don't like the Acer as much as the ASUS, so I dunno.
3) Buy two new monitors: I'd be okay with this, but I don't want to spend a ton of money. Looking up "top monitors" reviews always seems to get me in the $300+ range, which is way more than I want to spend per monitor if I'm getting two of them. I'm really looking for two monitors around $150-$200 each, but I don't know what's good, or if I'm dumb to buy at that price.
Only one cpu fan header on my motherboard. Not ideal I guess, but too cool is better than not cool enough. Also I checked and the cooler looks like it's touching the cpu, I couldn't see properly from the angle I was at. All going well so far, all over bar the plugging in.
one is all motherboards come with, if your using a water cooling setup then you either use a splitter for the radiator fans, or the block itself will have a spot to plug into the cpu_fan and then the radiator fans plug into the block.
Is there any difference between the sys fan and cpu fan slots? I'm mixing and matching with whatever is easiest.
Also my cooler plate should touch the cpu right? It's fairly high on the standoffs, I hope I didn't use the wrong screws.
Ahhh...sorta weird incomplete info being spread on here. All of that fan stuff varies by motherboard. All of the fans on my mobo can be set to monitor the cpu temp and adjust based on that.
Since your'e using a water block Tube, you can to plug the pump into the CPU socket and set it to full speed in the bios. You do not want the pump at a variable speed. I beleive that block will show as either 1500rpms or 3000rpms, depending on mobo.
The radiator fans you want to set to the CPU temperature, which your motherboard may be able to do. Your block will not have a spot to plug the fans into, unless they changed the design.
Those corsair pumps do kinda look like they're sitting above the motherboards. Your PC may not even start up if it's not touching, to prevent overheating, and it could hit max temp immediately.
The Corsair pumps' 3-pin (and 4-pin, iirc) don't actually vary pump speed; they just run at the constant pump speed they're configured for. With my H100i, for instance, plugging it into the CPU_FAN header basically only allows me to read what RPM the pump is running at. Because it's powered off of a dedicated SATA power connector, disconnecting the CPU_FAN header has literally no effect.
In fact, I disconnected mine specifically because some of the stuff I found online suggested it could reduce pump noise.
oh, they did change the design. The older ones do not have that sata connector, they only have fan connections. I bet they did that to eliminate people plugging it into the variable speed cpu power without setting it to full. You lose the ability to monitor if the pump is running full speed tho, in case of problems. Which is why they still include the CPU connection is my guess.
Everything plugged in! Unfortunately the computer immediately switches itself off (in under three seconds). My hunch is that the cooler is too far off the processor. Reseating it will be a pain.
Everything plugged in! Unfortunately the computer immediately switches itself off (in under three seconds). My hunch is that the cooler is too far off the processor. Reseating it will be a pain.
Did you maybe use the wrong spacers for the water block retention bracket?
I did literally just that the last time I tried to get an H60 on my friend's CPU, because I was just going off of memory from when I installed my own H60 and later H100i. They come with two different spacers: one is slightly longer on one side, and the other is the same length on both sides. For Socket 1150, you wanna use the ones that are the same length on both sides.
Not making any/sufficient physical contact with the CPU die would definitely be a reason for the PC to shut itself off.
I actually solved that problem, the current problem is that the computer won't boot all the way into windows. My guess would be that the old graphics card didn't properly uninstall, but I'm plugged into the motherboard anyway.
Well it wouldn't be a brick. If it's asking you for anything, the processor is fine.
Check the connections to the HDD/SSDs and make sure they didn't come undone in the process. Then, check the BIOS and make sure that the relevant drive is set up correctly and that the BIOS is seeing it. You might want to try unplugging any disk drives you have other than the system drive, just to make sure the BIOS didn't accidentally set one of the others as main.
Worst case though, if it's asking for something, is that you have to reinstall the OS. If you have anything on the drives that you need, it's still there, you might just have to connect it to another computer and move it off before wiping.
If I switch the ends around, it no longer sees the ssd at all.
Temperature is fine, gpu is removed so it's not that. Either the ssd itself is tuckered out or it's this cable. Hopefully. Could that have caused it to shit itself halfway through a boot?
0
Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
If it's posting and asking for an o/s disk then signs are pointing towards hard drive.
Posts
I've got the MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition mobo. The feature list is pretty decent and a step above the MATE for not a lot of cost difference.
and it looks cool
XBL : lJesse Custerl | MWO: Jesse Custer | Best vid ever. | 2nd best vid ever.
Asus motherboards have minimum fan speed alarms that you just need to configure in BIOS what the minimum threshold should be. Everytime I update my BIOS I have to fix that on mine.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Holy shit this thing boots quickly...
I'm seeing a number of stress-testing programs in my google search, any in particular that people prefer?
But it will also put way more stress on a cpu then it will ever see in real use, so really only good for testing stability of overclocks or just how well your cooler works.
Open up device manager and see if there's anything not installed.
Can anyone give me advice on buying a motherboard. I've just bought a GTX 970 and am looking at an i5 4690K, but have no idea about motherboards. Ideally I'd like to keep costs down with the motherboard, but still allow for some very slight overclocking. Was looking at stuff like the MSI Z97 PC MATE or Gigabyte GA-Z97P-D3, but might it be worth paying a bit more for something better?
In the meantime I've had a look at the MSI Z97 Guard-Pro and then slightly more expensive the ASRock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer and MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition.
I really only need a basic board, no SLI or anything required.
Thanks all
It can't be that easy
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131976&cm_re=asus_motherboard-_-13-131-976-_-Product
my only complaints are
The 8 pin cpu power socket location. In my case it makes it really hard to install fans on the inside of the top of the case.
and
If you allow you computer to sleep and when you attempt it 'wake' it up it wont send power to the video card, forcing you to effectively hard reset your bios.
Choosing a mobo is odd nowadays. What I look for is how future proof it is and if I can overclock with it.
it is
It came with my cooler but isn't mentioned in the instructions.
XBL : lJesse Custerl | MWO: Jesse Custer | Best vid ever. | 2nd best vid ever.
No no no, you gotta have a box to put all that shit in so your significant other can complain about that box of random computer parts that never get used.
Currently, I have 2 monitors: an ASUS VK246H I bought many years ago, and an Acer G246HL I bought a couple of years ago.
Given that they're two monitors from different brands, it's probably no surprise that they look a lot different display-wise. I like the ASUS better; the Acer is a bit too bright/white for me.
What I'd like to do is buy one more monitor that matches one or the other of these, and use the leftover monitor to hook up to my work computer when I work from home. So the question is which monitor to pair up, or should I go for broke and buy two new monitors that are the same brand and model.
1) Pair with the ASUS: They don't make the VK246H anymore, now it's the VK248H, which is $199 on Newegg. I figure the two are similar enough that this would probably work, but a lot of the reviews for the VK248H on Newegg say that it starts humming loudly after a year or two. Also, my VK246H is probably 5 years old by now, so who knows how much longer it'll last.
2) Pair with the Acer: Newegg is offering a deal on an Acer G246HYL right now for $129, which is a great price. However, the reviews are pretty dismal, talking a lot about light bleeding and whatnot. Also, I don't like the Acer as much as the ASUS, so I dunno.
3) Buy two new monitors: I'd be okay with this, but I don't want to spend a ton of money. Looking up "top monitors" reviews always seems to get me in the $300+ range, which is way more than I want to spend per monitor if I'm getting two of them. I'm really looking for two monitors around $150-$200 each, but I don't know what's good, or if I'm dumb to buy at that price.
Any thoughts?
Also my cooler plate should touch the cpu right? It's fairly high on the standoffs, I hope I didn't use the wrong screws.
While sys_fan will just output a constant voltage.
check your instructions for your cooler.
Ahhh...sorta weird incomplete info being spread on here. All of that fan stuff varies by motherboard. All of the fans on my mobo can be set to monitor the cpu temp and adjust based on that.
Since your'e using a water block Tube, you can to plug the pump into the CPU socket and set it to full speed in the bios. You do not want the pump at a variable speed. I beleive that block will show as either 1500rpms or 3000rpms, depending on mobo.
The radiator fans you want to set to the CPU temperature, which your motherboard may be able to do. Your block will not have a spot to plug the fans into, unless they changed the design.
Those corsair pumps do kinda look like they're sitting above the motherboards. Your PC may not even start up if it's not touching, to prevent overheating, and it could hit max temp immediately.
In fact, I disconnected mine specifically because some of the stuff I found online suggested it could reduce pump noise.
The computer now boots, by very slowly and seems to lock up in windows.
Did you maybe use the wrong spacers for the water block retention bracket?
I did literally just that the last time I tried to get an H60 on my friend's CPU, because I was just going off of memory from when I installed my own H60 and later H100i. They come with two different spacers: one is slightly longer on one side, and the other is the same length on both sides. For Socket 1150, you wanna use the ones that are the same length on both sides.
Not making any/sufficient physical contact with the CPU die would definitely be a reason for the PC to shut itself off.
http://imgur.com/Der2d1t
http://imgur.com/CtT9lgL
I've unplugged the gpu to no avail. Probably the processor. This pc is plato's fucking ship.
It's now asking me to insert a boot disk, so I guess it's a brick now. Wooooooooo.
Check the connections to the HDD/SSDs and make sure they didn't come undone in the process. Then, check the BIOS and make sure that the relevant drive is set up correctly and that the BIOS is seeing it. You might want to try unplugging any disk drives you have other than the system drive, just to make sure the BIOS didn't accidentally set one of the others as main.
Worst case though, if it's asking for something, is that you have to reinstall the OS. If you have anything on the drives that you need, it's still there, you might just have to connect it to another computer and move it off before wiping.
http://imgur.com/xsaXYPz
If I switch the ends around, it no longer sees the ssd at all.
Temperature is fine, gpu is removed so it's not that. Either the ssd itself is tuckered out or it's this cable. Hopefully. Could that have caused it to shit itself halfway through a boot?