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How to Get Out of Debt?

chrismsxchrismsx Registered User regular
I managed to over the course of the last year get myself into 10,000 dollars worth of credit card debt because my job gave me a pay decrease for a few months and I still maintained my current life style. I've since gotten a new job that pays more but I've still got the debt.

What hurts more is the debt is equal to one of my student loans, which means this money could easily of aided in getting me to a better place financially. I'm pretty mad at myself but being mad won't exactly fix the problem. I've decided to try my hand at expediting the process by taking on freelance projects and cutting out things like nights out where I buy drinks for myself and others. I still think there's more I can do though.

Does anyone have any personal stories or advice for getting out of debt sooner than later or even just tactics?

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  • EncEnc A Fool with Compassion Pronouns: He, Him, HisRegistered User regular
    edited January 2016
    The first question would be what is your entire debt, including student loans? Figuring out your total encumbrances would probably be a better place to start. You also want to make direct cuts in your spending so that you can progressively eliminate that total debt in a reasonable timeframe to afford bonkers amount of interest.

    If you have a total of $25-30k in debt, you are probably looking at $300 a month for ~7-9 years, but potentially considerably more for not paying that. If you go out and buy a round for a group of mates that's probably an easy $100 by the end of the night, that one night could have cut your monthly debt payments by a third.

    Whenever you get windfalls, you will want to save a quarter, put at least half down towards your debt, and only use a quarter of that windfall money for new expenses.

    The sooner you get that debt gone, the more freedom you will have long term to do the things you want and the less you will pay overall.

    Other quick things:
    -Cut any monthly expenses you can live without (do you need $160 cable or could you be perfectly entertained with $60 high speed internet and youtube; do you need a $200 cellphone plan or could cutting down to a $50 work better for you)?
    -Don't take any new encumbrances. Don't get another credit card, don't buy a new car, don't add a netflix subscription (unless in doing so you are "trading down" from your current encumbrances). Trading a giant cable bill for internet you already have and a $9 netflix subscription is a net gain of money, for example.
    -Don't buy stuff you don't need until the debt is cleared. Yeah, you could get that new computer or outfit or whatever, but right now that money would be better invested getting you out of debt.
    -Don't eat out all the time. Seriously, groceries and alcohol can eat your entire income if you go out frequently. You can cut back here in a big way and save money (and probably be healthier too).

    If you can get to tossing a big chunk of change each month at that debt and be patient, soon it will be gone. And what's better, once the debt is gone that 3-500 a month you were putting towards it can go towards savings, stuff, and experiences rather than the debt without having to worry about that burden.

    Enc on
  • firewaterwordfirewaterword Satchitananda Pais Vasco to San FranciscoRegistered User regular
    edited January 2016
    Maybe do some reading on what's called the "snowball method."
    To use the debt snowball method, you usually start out by organizing your debts from the lowest balance to the highest balance, regardless of interest rate. (If the thought of doing that makes you want to explode because it doesn’t make sense math-wise, read “Am I bad at math too?”.)

    You then pay as much as possible to the first one in your list. Basically, you chuck as much as you can scrounge up or earn toward that first creditor to get it GONE. At the same time, you make only minimum payments to all of your other creditors. Don’t try to send an extra $20 to each one. If you want to send in extra money, send it ALL to your main target. Pummel it with those snowballs.

    Once your very first credit card (or whatever’s first on your list) is paid off, you’ll feel really good. You’ll also end up with even more money to send to the next one — because you’ll no longer owe anything on the first one you targeted.

    An alternative is the "avalanche," where you start off by paying down the debt with the highest interest rate first.
    This method requires a bit more math. It’s basically the opposite of snowballing, except you’re not paying off your largest balance, but rather your most expensive balance, or the balances with the highest interest rate. So, say you have three credit card balances: $500 with an annual percentage rate of 10%, $2,000 with an APR of 20%, and $5,000 with an APR of 15%, you’d pay off the credit card with an APR of 20% first, because that’s the one that will cost you the most over the long run due to compound interest. Once you eliminate the balance with the highest interest rate, you’d move on to the balance with the next highest interest rate (the $5,000 balance with the 15% APR), until all your balances are paid off.

    SNL also has some good advice (with tongue planted firmly in cheek :biggrin: )

    Good luck!

    firewaterword on
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  • davidsdurionsdavidsdurions Your Trusty Meatshield Panhandle NebraskaRegistered User regular
    The snowball method is like prestiging in call of duty, sure you filled a bar and now get to fill those same bars again but you aren't really gaining anything.

    The Avalanche method is like keeping that original Skyline in Gran Turismo and continually upgrading it until you have this monster car that can outpace a formula 1 prototype by the end.

    The math between the two methods never works out for the snowball method. Interest always wins.

    For the op: you need to sit down with a year's worth of expenses to sift through and note the things you expect to "need" (food, shelter, transportation), things you'll want that are close to needs (new clothes once in a while, medical things like do you need a constant stream of psuedafed so you can go to work during cold season like me), and then the list of all the things that you can just excise from your budget.

    If you can sit down with last year's expenses and truly categorize things this way, you'll more than likely find all the money you need to knock out your debt in a reasonable amount of time. It takes discipline, which is not easy in our world of course, and I'd say it takes budgeting in fun too. A lot of people will tell you to cut out entertainment and trips but I find that unsustainable. As noted above, an Internet connection and your choice of streaming service is a good deal for in home entertainment, and if you can afford it, I'd include in your budget every month or three something "big" and fun outside the house such as a concert or sports event or whatever it is that strikes your fancy.

    You can totally do this type of budgeting on a day off and have a pretty good timeline for getting to debt free and implement the plan and immediately feel better about your situation.

  • chrismsxchrismsx Registered User regular
    Wow. Thanks guys. I think I'm currently without thinking doing the snowball method. Here's a final question, so I have savings. It's not much but it exists. I could wipe it out and pay off two of my cards this month. Leaving me with just two to pay off.

    My girlfriend warned against this but I have a safety net in my parents. I know it sounds bad but it's absolutely true. If i lose my job, I could survive fine until I land the next one. I also know that with the debt gone I'd be able to get my savings back in pretty short order.

    Thoughts?

  • davidsdurionsdavidsdurions Your Trusty Meatshield Panhandle NebraskaRegistered User regular
    If you are doing it by the book, you want to have 3-6 months of expenses in savings before going beyond minimum payments on debts. You can't actually rely on anyone else but yourself.

  • AngelHedgieAngelHedgie Registered User regular
    chrismsx wrote: »
    Wow. Thanks guys. I think I'm currently without thinking doing the snowball method. Here's a final question, so I have savings. It's not much but it exists. I could wipe it out and pay off two of my cards this month. Leaving me with just two to pay off.

    My girlfriend warned against this but I have a safety net in my parents. I know it sounds bad but it's absolutely true. If i lose my job, I could survive fine until I land the next one. I also know that with the debt gone I'd be able to get my savings back in pretty short order.

    Thoughts?

    Bad idea.

    Your savings is your safety net, in case reality decides to take a croquet mallet to your knees. You want, as a minimum, $500 in case of "oh shit". Ideally, you want about a half year to a year of living expenses.

    XBL: Nox Aeternum / PSN: NoxAeternum / NN:NoxAeternum / Steam: noxaeternum
  • bowenbowen Sup? Registered User regular
    If you think your parents would bail you out, it's probably better to pay off debts sooner rather than later.

    The difference between snowball and avalanche is not really significant unless the interest rates are deviating by more than 5%. You're better off paying the lower balances off sooner in those cases. It's sort of a mental game you play with yourself, and it helps make you feel better.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
  • JasconiusJasconius sword criminal mad onlineRegistered User regular
    chrismsx wrote: »
    Wow. Thanks guys. I think I'm currently without thinking doing the snowball method. Here's a final question, so I have savings. It's not much but it exists. I could wipe it out and pay off two of my cards this month. Leaving me with just two to pay off.

    My girlfriend warned against this but I have a safety net in my parents. I know it sounds bad but it's absolutely true. If i lose my job, I could survive fine until I land the next one. I also know that with the debt gone I'd be able to get my savings back in pretty short order.

    Thoughts?

    Bad idea.

    Your savings is your safety net, in case reality decides to take a croquet mallet to your knees. You want, as a minimum, $500 in case of "oh shit". Ideally, you want about a half year to a year of living expenses.

    its not that bad of an idea. he's paying 20% on 10 grand, the money in savings does nothing.

    if he has an emergency, he has two empty credit cards to handle it with


    Pay your credit cards off before your student loans. Credit cards are extremely bad debt. Get rid of it aggressively. Stop using credit cards unless you are sure you can pay them off quickly. If you have an option, consider deferring your low interest student loans to more quickly eliminate your credit card debt.

    this is a discord of mostly PA people interested in fighting games: https://discord.gg/DZWa97d5rz

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  • djmitchelladjmitchella Registered User regular
    You Need A Budget is pretty good general budgeting software, and they have a specific page for dealing with debt here.

  • EncEnc A Fool with Compassion Pronouns: He, Him, HisRegistered User regular
    edited January 2016
    Jasconius wrote: »
    chrismsx wrote: »
    Wow. Thanks guys. I think I'm currently without thinking doing the snowball method. Here's a final question, so I have savings. It's not much but it exists. I could wipe it out and pay off two of my cards this month. Leaving me with just two to pay off.

    My girlfriend warned against this but I have a safety net in my parents. I know it sounds bad but it's absolutely true. If i lose my job, I could survive fine until I land the next one. I also know that with the debt gone I'd be able to get my savings back in pretty short order.

    Thoughts?

    Bad idea.

    Your savings is your safety net, in case reality decides to take a croquet mallet to your knees. You want, as a minimum, $500 in case of "oh shit". Ideally, you want about a half year to a year of living expenses.

    its not that bad of an idea. he's paying 20% on 10 grand, the money in savings does nothing.

    if he has an emergency, he has two empty credit cards to handle it with


    Pay your credit cards off before your student loans. Credit cards are extremely bad debt. Get rid of it aggressively. Stop using credit cards unless you are sure you can pay them off quickly. If you have an option, consider deferring your low interest student loans to more quickly eliminate your credit card debt.

    I feel the better answer here is a "why not both."

    Out of your 100% left over income after basic living needs, maybe 10-25% of that should go towards optional encumberances (at most) like cable or fancy cellphone plans or going out on the town, 50% should go towards your debt, and the last 25% should go in savings (at least).

    It's good to build your savings, and to keep building it (and leaving it for a rainy day) as much as possible. But that debt has to take priority or it will keep eating more and more of your income.

    Enc on
  • SiskaSiska Shorty Registered User regular
    Just keep one credit card, the one with the lowest interest, in your wallet. Put the others away somewhere safe, in a sealed envelope. That way they are available if you really really need them but they are not "on a whim" available. It can help with resisting impulse shopping for things that you don't really need.

  • MrTLiciousMrTLicious Registered User regular
    Snowball method is bananas when you're comparing credit card and student loan debt. They are not even close. Pay off your credit cards.

    If it's easy to get your transaction history from your bank/credit cards, try making a categorized list of your expenses over the past year. That will help you budget for the future when you realize how much of your income is actually disposable, and let you make better judgments about the entertainment/debt debate. In reality that's a personal decision you have to make and taking percentages from the internet isn't necessarily going to be super helpful.

    Any money that you decide to pay towards debt (above the minimum payments) should be on your cards, highest interest rate first.

    Once you get rid of your credit card debt, consider this: You should be saving 20% of your income when you're in a good working situation (employer match contributions count if you get those). Living at your means when you're in your earnings prime is a recipe for dependence down the road.

    If you really do have a safety net, I say use some of it to put a dent in the cards. If things go south, you can always put the debt back on the cards later, and they won't be accruing interest in the mean time.

  • FoomyFoomy Registered User regular
    If you really are 100% sure that your parents could act as a safety net and you feel secure in your job then your idea of just paying it all off right away might not be so bad.

    Just make sure that you then setup a good budget and aggressively build up your savings again asap so you don't run into the same problem again.

    Steam Profile: FoomyFooms
  • PaladinPaladin Registered User regular
    By the way, what is your student loan repayment plan? And do you work for the government or a non-profit?

    Marty: The future, it's where you're going?
    Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
  • tinwhiskerstinwhiskers Registered User regular
    If your job decreasing you pay for a few months is enough to generate $10k is credit card debt, you probably were not saving enough money under your pre-wagecut lifestyle.

    6ylyzxlir2dz.png
  • ThroThro pgroome@penny-arcade.com Registered User regular
    If your job decreasing you pay for a few months is enough to generate $10k is credit card debt, you probably were not saving enough money under your pre-wagecut lifestyle.

    $10k over a few months would have to be what, student loans plus rent? Assuming the "pay decrease" was actually to not pay you in money. Did you work for pizza and promises for 3 months?
    I know your question is really how to pay down debt. I think the posters above have given some good advice.
    But please also pay close attention to the budget suggestions you're getting as well. Since you stated it was a 'lifestyle' and not a medical emergency or something, you really, really need to examine your priorities and spending habits.

  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist The Skies of HiigaraRegistered User regular
    Paladin wrote: »
    By the way, what is your student loan repayment plan? And do you work for the government or a non-profit?

    Not the OP, but wondering - how does working for the government affect these things?

    He/Him | "We who believe in freedom cannot rest." - Dr. Johnetta Cole, 7/22/2024
  • davidsdurionsdavidsdurions Your Trusty Meatshield Panhandle NebraskaRegistered User regular
    Athenor wrote: »
    Paladin wrote: »
    By the way, what is your student loan repayment plan? And do you work for the government or a non-profit?

    Not the OP, but wondering - how does working for the government affect these things?

    There are a lot of student loan repayment offers for some government workers. Usually things like teachers or healthcare workers in inner cities, rural, or Indian Service.

  • DaenrisDaenris Registered User regular
    edited January 2016
    Athenor wrote: »
    Paladin wrote: »
    By the way, what is your student loan repayment plan? And do you work for the government or a non-profit?

    Not the OP, but wondering - how does working for the government affect these things?

    Some types of federal student loans are eligible for forgiveness plans after a period of time working in public/government jobs.

    Daenris on
  • PaladinPaladin Registered User regular
    Athenor wrote: »
    Paladin wrote: »
    By the way, what is your student loan repayment plan? And do you work for the government or a non-profit?

    Not the OP, but wondering - how does working for the government affect these things?

    Public service loan forgiveness program. If you have direct loans and work for the government or another public service, you can get them forgiven after the 120th nonconsecutive on-time payment while employed at an applicable institution. So essentially your loan is gone with 10 years public service no matter how big it is. Generally the payment plans amenable to this, like income based repayment or pay as you earn if you're a baby are very lenient in terms of allowing you to live in budget.

    Marty: The future, it's where you're going?
    Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
  • HollerHoller Registered User regular
    edited June 2016
    -

    Holler on
  • wonderpugwonderpug Registered User regular
    Reddit heard your needs and delivered you a story of someone who paid off $10k in credit card debt in a year on a $55k salary with no windfalls.

    Well worth a read since he goes into great detail on the strategy he used and how his tactics played out. Don't follow his method of cutting out his 401k contributions, but everything else he did looks sound.

  • zepherinzepherin Russian warship, go fuck yourself Registered User regular
    The snowball method is like prestiging in call of duty, sure you filled a bar and now get to fill those same bars again but you aren't really gaining anything.

    The Avalanche method is like keeping that original Skyline in Gran Turismo and continually upgrading it until you have this monster car that can outpace a formula 1 prototype by the end.

    The math between the two methods never works out for the snowball method. Interest always wins.

    For the op: you need to sit down with a year's worth of expenses to sift through and note the things you expect to "need" (food, shelter, transportation), things you'll want that are close to needs (new clothes once in a while, medical things like do you need a constant stream of psuedafed so you can go to work during cold season like me), and then the list of all the things that you can just excise from your budget.

    If you can sit down with last year's expenses and truly categorize things this way, you'll more than likely find all the money you need to knock out your debt in a reasonable amount of time. It takes discipline, which is not easy in our world of course, and I'd say it takes budgeting in fun too. A lot of people will tell you to cut out entertainment and trips but I find that unsustainable. As noted above, an Internet connection and your choice of streaming service is a good deal for in home entertainment, and if you can afford it, I'd include in your budget every month or three something "big" and fun outside the house such as a concert or sports event or whatever it is that strikes your fancy.

    You can totally do this type of budgeting on a day off and have a pretty good timeline for getting to debt free and implement the plan and immediately feel better about your situation.
    The math doesn't work in the long term for the snowball method, but what it does do is free up cash flow. If you are getting crushed every month and need some breathing room, take out some of those chicken shit debts to get an extra 80-100 bucks a month, then work on the big debts. Sometimes paying more so you have cash flow (and reasonable standard of living) now is preferable to just getting crushed every month for 4 years.

  • bowenbowen Sup? Registered User regular
    zepherin wrote: »
    The snowball method is like prestiging in call of duty, sure you filled a bar and now get to fill those same bars again but you aren't really gaining anything.

    The Avalanche method is like keeping that original Skyline in Gran Turismo and continually upgrading it until you have this monster car that can outpace a formula 1 prototype by the end.

    The math between the two methods never works out for the snowball method. Interest always wins.

    For the op: you need to sit down with a year's worth of expenses to sift through and note the things you expect to "need" (food, shelter, transportation), things you'll want that are close to needs (new clothes once in a while, medical things like do you need a constant stream of psuedafed so you can go to work during cold season like me), and then the list of all the things that you can just excise from your budget.

    If you can sit down with last year's expenses and truly categorize things this way, you'll more than likely find all the money you need to knock out your debt in a reasonable amount of time. It takes discipline, which is not easy in our world of course, and I'd say it takes budgeting in fun too. A lot of people will tell you to cut out entertainment and trips but I find that unsustainable. As noted above, an Internet connection and your choice of streaming service is a good deal for in home entertainment, and if you can afford it, I'd include in your budget every month or three something "big" and fun outside the house such as a concert or sports event or whatever it is that strikes your fancy.

    You can totally do this type of budgeting on a day off and have a pretty good timeline for getting to debt free and implement the plan and immediately feel better about your situation.
    The math doesn't work in the long term for the snowball method, but what it does do is free up cash flow. If you are getting crushed every month and need some breathing room, take out some of those chicken shit debts to get an extra 80-100 bucks a month, then work on the big debts. Sometimes paying more so you have cash flow (and reasonable standard of living) now is preferable to just getting crushed every month for 4 years.

    Yeah and unless the difference between the interests are huge, it does not make a significant difference to pay off one vs the other.

    Student loans are a good debt, so paying them off is a good idea, and the interest can be deducted off your taxes. Which gives you more money. Don't avoid paying student loans at the expense of credit cards.

    However, if you've got a $500 card with a 25% APR, and a $4000 card with a 27% APR, you're better off slamming the $500 one out first, in my opinion. Plus it'll make you feel good, which helps reinforce actually paying off debts.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
  • MrTLiciousMrTLicious Registered User regular
    bowen wrote: »
    Student loans ... the interest can be deducted off your taxes.

    This just means that student loan debt is better to keep around than other debt. The interest you pay here is tax deductible while the interest other places is likely not, so paying this off and keeping other debt means you're paying interest on the other debt that is not tax deductible when you could have been paying off the interest on student loan debt which is, while having paid off the higher-interest (probably) non-deductible interest debt.

  • bowenbowen Sup? Registered User regular
    It is more valuable as it's often lower interest.

    However, you can use the interest payment deduction to adjust your taxable income to deliver more money to your bills. But yeah, it's 'good' debt.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
  • MrTLiciousMrTLicious Registered User regular
    edited January 2016
    But it's only the interest. If you're making the minimum payment, you are paying off all the interest, plus some principal (which is not deductible). Paying it off early doesn't give you any tax advantages (edit: it actually lowers your tax advantage by giving you less interest to pay off).

    MrTLicious on
  • AngelHedgieAngelHedgie Registered User regular
    edited January 2016
    Honestly, we as a society suck at teaching people about debt. And it doesn't help that many of the "gurus" out there teaching people about debt teach "debt is evil and must be avoided at all costs!"

    AngelHedgie on
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  • tinwhiskerstinwhiskers Registered User regular
    Honestly, we as a society suck at teaching people about debt. And it doesn't help that many of the "gurus" out there teaching people about debt teach "debt is evil and must be avoided at all costs!"

    41% of Americans don't have $500 in savings, only 17% have 3 months worth of savings. All the tax-deductions, investment earnings versus interest payments, and cash on hand liquidity considerations kinda go out the window in those situations. At that point outside of 'need a car or lose your job' kind of situations there is no good debt to be taking on.

    6ylyzxlir2dz.png
  • JavenJaven Registered User regular
    Honestly, we as a society suck at teaching people about debt. And it doesn't help that many of the "gurus" out there teaching people about debt teach "debt is evil and must be avoided at all costs!"

    Because the gurus in question are mostly talking to people who already eyeball deep in debt to begin with. It's like Hoarders, you don't tell someone 'well some hoarding is okay' because it makes it too easy to rationalize the behavior that got them into debt to begin with.

    @chrismsx I was where you were a few years ago and I ended up going sans-savings while I paid things off, and was ultimately very glad I did. I'd also look into getting a copy of your credit report and seeing exactly how badly your credit utilization had damaged your credit scores. If you haven't missed a payment it shouldn't be that bad, but maintaining more than a certain percent of total credit utilization is definitely marked as a negative when pulling your credit score for basically anything.

  • PhyphorPhyphor Building Planet Busters Tasting FruitRegistered User regular
    MrTLicious wrote: »
    But it's only the interest. If you're making the minimum payment, you are paying off all the interest, plus some principal (which is not deductible). Paying it off early doesn't give you any tax advantages (edit: it actually lowers your tax advantage by giving you less interest to pay off).

    As with everything its all about interest vs return. If the expected investment returns are low enough or the interest high enough then it can absolutely be better to pay off the loak first

  • zepherinzepherin Russian warship, go fuck yourself Registered User regular
    In terms of making side money a few friends and I have used Amazon Turk and used money from that to pay down debts. 10 bucks a day is easy enough and there is that much in low hanging fruit most days. 40-50 a week turns into an extra 2k a year just in debt reduction.

    One of my friends sells plasma twice a week for 70 a week(35 a go). I don't like needles so I never did. But he combines the two for 4K-5k a year in savings.

  • Inquisitor77Inquisitor77 2 x Penny Arcade Fight Club Champion A fixed point in space and timeRegistered User regular
    Honestly, we as a society suck at teaching people about debt. And it doesn't help that many of the "gurus" out there teaching people about debt teach "debt is evil and must be avoided at all costs!"

    The amount of things that are viable to hold with long-term debt can be counted with one hand. And one of those things is a house. Which, as the recession showed us, isn't as viable as people think.

    The only people who can afford to dick around with sizable debt are the ones who have tons of money in the first place (read: having money lets you make money).

    Everyone else should be spending much less than they earn. Period.

    If you have a credit card, you are technically buying something via "debt", but anything you put on that card should be paid off each month. Basically, you should be carrying a zero balance always. Which means that you should have the money on hand to pay for anything you buy with a credit card. Which means you are still functionally not carrying any debt.

    OP: I'm going to reinforce your assessment that you are living beyond your means. The amount of debt you have racked up in such a short period of time is significant. Beyond all the quibbling you will hear about which debt to pay off first and the like, the fundamental issue you should be managing, first and foremost, is figuring out how to live within your means and spending well below what you take in each month. Other than that, kudos to you on figuring this out before it became an insurmountable issue, and best of luck in getting back in the black.

  • JohnnyCacheJohnnyCache Starting Defense Place at the tableRegistered User regular
    The snowball method is really good for people in actual arrears or collection, because at that point you want to be minamizing your institutional contact. If you lack the ability to make minimum payments on everything, letting the biggest ones slide to pay off the little ones actually, weirdly, puts you in a better bargaining position faster....this applies in the cut between repayment and bankruptcies, if you intend to settle, rather than repay in full, your unsecured revolving credit between 1-10k

    The avalanche method is better for people who wake up BEFORE the red ink is neck deep and better for people with multiple pools of similar sized debt they will be paying on for a while. It's also better for people with larger asset pools and/or more secured debt.

    I often had people snowball all things under 1k for six months, then show them how much headway they'd made and show them how much applying their "snowball" amount to their bigger balances would save them. (I worked in collections/debt relief for a while)

  • V1mV1m Registered User regular
    zepherin wrote: »
    In terms of making side money a few friends and I have used Amazon Turk and used money from that to pay down debts. 10 bucks a day is easy enough and there is that much in low hanging fruit most days. 40-50 a week turns into an extra 2k a year just in debt reduction.

    One of my friends sells plasma twice a week for 70 a week(35 a go). I don't like needles so I never did. But he combines the two for 4K-5k a year in savings.

    I don't like needles either, but if collecting £40-80 a week selling blood was an option in the UK I would have absolutely done it when I was in debt. Heck, I'd have done it when I was a student, and not gone into as much debt.

  • WezoinWezoin Registered User regular
    edited January 2016
    What worked for me:
    Talk to a bank about a loan, if they can offer you a lower interest rate, take it. Pay off your credit card with the loan and either cancel your credit card or reduce the limit significantly. I had about $12,000 credit card debt at 19.9%. My bank took it over as a loan at 5% paid over 5 years. Dropped my credit card to $2000 limit (you could probably go lower if you don't have dependents to worry about paying for.)

    The benefits are:
    1) Lower interest rate
    2) No way to re-spend and increase it again

    Wezoin on
  • PaladinPaladin Registered User regular
    Wezoin wrote: »
    What worked for me:
    Talk to a bank about a loan, if they can offer you a lower interest rate, take it. Pay off your credit card with the loan and either cancel your credit card or reduce the limit significantly. I had about $12,000 credit card debt at 19.9%. My bank took it over as a loan at 5% paid over 5 years. Dropped my credit card to $2000 limit (you could probably go lower if you don't have dependents to worry about paying for.)

    The benefits are:
    1) Lower interest rate
    2) No way to re-spend and increase it again

    What bank is this

    Marty: The future, it's where you're going?
    Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
  • WezoinWezoin Registered User regular
    Paladin wrote: »
    Wezoin wrote: »
    What worked for me:
    Talk to a bank about a loan, if they can offer you a lower interest rate, take it. Pay off your credit card with the loan and either cancel your credit card or reduce the limit significantly. I had about $12,000 credit card debt at 19.9%. My bank took it over as a loan at 5% paid over 5 years. Dropped my credit card to $2000 limit (you could probably go lower if you don't have dependents to worry about paying for.)

    The benefits are:
    1) Lower interest rate
    2) No way to re-spend and increase it again

    What bank is this

    Royal Bank of Canada (RBC)

  • JavenJaven Registered User regular
    It's incredibly lucky that you got a bank to give you such a good rate, or even approve you at all, when your reason for requesting the loan was 'to pay off this massive credit card debt.' Not calling you a liar, but that is definitely not the standard.

  • EncEnc A Fool with Compassion Pronouns: He, Him, HisRegistered User regular
    I'm not from Canada, but here in the states in most cases you can't actually do that without committing fraud based upon what you sign with the loan.

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