Just installed a bunch of case fans in the midi tower I put my old hardware into. 2x 120mm inbound front and one outbound in the back. What a difference it makes...
Regard the max values on CPU temps:
Before:
<snip>
After:
<snip>
Yes, I know that 93°C is still way too high for a CPU, but these measurements were taken after running the Intel Burn Test on "Very High" stress intensity for about 15 mins. In normal operation, even when rendering, it doesn't get anywhere near that.
I also installed some fans in my big case, so now its cooling consists of two inbound case fans, one 230mm in front and one 140mm in rear, and the 2x120mm fans of my H100i v2 watercooling outbound on top. Unfortunately I didn't take any measurements before the installation, but already the watercooling fans have a much easier time keeping the liquid cool now that there's actual inbound airflow.
Hey @Kashaar what tool did you use for temperature measurement?
That's Open Hardware Monitor (which has the same interface as HWMonitor). I like it because it has systray temperature readouts I find nice to have. But it doesn't seem to have proper Skylake support yet, unfortunately.
Hey computer nerds, I just figured out why my computer keeps force shutting down - my idle CPU temp is 90C. Do I need new thermal paste, a new heatsink, or both?
Yeah the fan is spinning at 1000 RPM. I'm just gonna get a new heatsink and paste and if that doesn't work ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Well I have a friend who can come diagnose, really. I can't imagine the problem wouldn't be fixed with a new sink and paste, but if I for some reason need a new processor I'll also need a new mobo and that is just not a hassle I want to have to deal with.
I was reading that replacing the paste every three or so years is recommended. But that might also be because most people who keep up with this sort of thing are probably swapping out at least that often. Cleaning and reapplying good paste won't hurt.
I wouldn't let mine go for three years without changing, I do mine once every six months or so (I try to do a major cleaning twice a year because my case has a lot of mesh so it's a dust magnet).
Thermal paste is dirt cheap and the procedure doesn't take very long.
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That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
If your CPU is truly idling at 90c AND the heatsink is still attached (make sure all 4 corner buttons are pressed down) there might be something wrong with it too. Any intel CPU made in the last 10 years shouldn't idle at 90c even with a dried up half attached heatsink. Luckily the thermal throttling features will keep it from becoming damaged as long as you aren't letting happen over and over again.
I've noticed in my years of PC repair that when CPUs and GPUs continually overheat, will start idling hotter and hotter until the whole thing just shits the bed. I did a full thermal paste and new heatsink/fan job for a guy but his i~ CPU would never come down even idling on the UEFI screen.
As pointed out, you need to replace your RAM modules. Depending on their age and how you obtained them, the manufacturer may send you a free replacement (I've done this multiple times, RAM modules--like SSDs, arg--are not hyper-reliable).
If you have multiple modules, you have an easy way to check: remove one, turn on your PC, and see if you can replicate the crash. Then try it with the other.
This happened to my pc back in may, removing one stick and seeing if it works is the simplest thing if you have the time.
You're just trying to figure out which stick is bad.
arg, my sound has stopped working and I can't think of any way to troubleshoot it. I normally have my tv as one of my monitors and run the sound through its speakers but it's no longer making sound. I know my card is fine because the other monitor has built in speakers which are working fine
One at a time. I have one into the HDMI and one into DVI because my card only has one HDMI for some reason. Technically there are three outputs because I also have the Rift audio plugged into... something.
One at a time. I have one into the HDMI and one into DVI because my card only has one HDMI for some reason. Technically there are three outputs because I also have the Rift audio plugged into... something.
Are you running your sound through HDMI/DVI or a seperate audio cable?
If you are, then I say check to ensure your levels feeding the TV are 'on'. Open up the Control Panel, select sound, select the appropriate output, and inside should be a tab called 'Levels'. (I've never run sound via HDMI/DVI, but I presume the same tabs would exist.)
If the TV provides sound for other devices, the perhaps the cable connecting the PC is lose and/or bad. Try swapping it, either on some other device or maybe just getting a new one.
Perhaps try connecting the sound directly to the TV from the PC, if possible.
EDIT:
Not sure if I'm clear, but do you only connect to the TV or Monitor separately depending on need? Or simultaneously and you just switch it manually?
If simultaneous, try disconnecting all other cables and feed only the TV.
That happens to me with my wireless headphones occasionally. I usually try disabling all audio devices and then re-enabling them, that tends to reset weird stuff like that.
So a while back you guys built me This PC and so far I got everything I'll need except for the CPU and the Video card.
My neighbor yesterday found the AMD RX 460 review that claims it's really good, and it's $110. So would I be better buying the AMD RX for less or should I stick with the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970?
It's hard to compare the two. Until my GTX 1080 came in, I had a EVGA GTX 970--it's a mainstay card for a reason.
The RX 460 is much newer, but it's a much lighter card as far as I can tell. What kind of gaming are you planning to do on it? What resolution? If you're going over 1080p, you'll definitely want as much power as you can afford (or even less if you're running intensive games).
Well, I guess you'd be okay either way. World of Warcraft is famous low in its power demands. Fallout 4 is, like every other game Bethesda's made in the last almost 20 years, highly unoptimized and more dependent on CPU power than would normally be expected. Xcom 2 might be your most demanding game potentially, but you can run it on either.
So it might boil down to whether your GPU budget is x or 2x. A GTX 970 is going to cost you almost twice as much, but outside of DirectX 12 application and some other very specific circumstances, give you almost twice the power to work with. I believe both cards have the same VRAM, though even with the GTX 970 having some of its VRAM underclocked, the large majority of it is clocked faster (I believe). The GTX 970 is also a 256-bit card, versus a 128-bit bus on the RX 460.
There's also the issue of drivers: if you prefer AMD drivers to Nvidia ones, or vice versa, let that inform your decision. But power wise, a closer counterpart to the RX 460 would probably be the GTX 960 or even 950 (though again, much older).
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
If a person is thinking of going with a 970, I think it would be worthwhile considering the RX480 instead. I'm still partial to the nVidia offerings of the 10xx generation, but the RX480 is a pretty compelling value.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
So a while back you guys built me This PC and so far I got everything I'll need except for the CPU and the Video card.
My neighbor yesterday found the AMD RX 460 review that claims it's really good, and it's $110. So would I be better buying the AMD RX for less or should I stick with the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970?
The 970 is still a solid card, but is now one generation old, doesn't make it a bad card, just older now.
If you're gaming at 1080p and price/$ is important you should look at the GTX 1060 or the RX 480. Both are pretty compelling cards that'll do 1080p gaming well for less money than the 970.
The 1060 is probably a slightly better card, though a bit more expensive, and right now finding either in stock is near impossible.
you can run CS:GO and mobas at 1080 on a fucking toaster probably
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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SnicketysnickThe Greatest Hype Man inWesterosRegistered Userregular
Yeah an RX480, especially one of the models with 4gb of memory is probably the best value proposition for playing new games at 1080p. The 8gb version offers a wee bit more future proofing and performance at higher resolutions, but it's a question of if you want to pay the extra premium.
I can't make a recommendation other than either the RX 480 or a 10X0 at this point. Like yeah you could maybe save 20 bucks on a RX 470 but those are the ones you want to be looking at right now.
*Sigh* my GPU is back from repairs...without the appropriate power cable.
I have more, and I chose the matching shape (8-pin and 6-pin with no blanks.) The GPU gives me white lights but my PC won't turn on and the motherboard won't give me an error code. Power is the thing I understand the least and fear the most when working on my PC. How picky is it about cables? How do I safely get this turned on?
EDIT - Got it. The key was not using one 8pin cable and one 6pin cable. I had to switch to one cable that had both beside each other (and the 8 pin was a 6 pin with an extra two as an option.
I hate working with power supplies. The only reason this PC got built was because my roommate taught me in 2013.
*sigh* I don't suppose anyone has some HDD rails for an Antec Three hundred Two laying around? For some reason I apparently threw out all the extras so now I cannot add any more HDD to my case. I'm sure past-me had a good reason for being so dumb.
What they have marked as E. They're needed to install even a 3.5" drive. I'm told (based on googling and asking a local shop) that each case is typically different.
Posts
But there are plenty of other pieces of software that will display temps.
That's Open Hardware Monitor (which has the same interface as HWMonitor). I like it because it has systray temperature readouts I find nice to have. But it doesn't seem to have proper Skylake support yet, unfortunately.
Unreal Engine 4 Developers Community.
I'm working on a cute little video game! Here's a link for you.
No idea, I spray it with canned air every so often (if that counts as cleaning it) and about 6 years.
Well I have a friend who can come diagnose, really. I can't imagine the problem wouldn't be fixed with a new sink and paste, but if I for some reason need a new processor I'll also need a new mobo and that is just not a hassle I want to have to deal with.
Thermal paste is dirt cheap and the procedure doesn't take very long.
I've noticed in my years of PC repair that when CPUs and GPUs continually overheat, will start idling hotter and hotter until the whole thing just shits the bed. I did a full thermal paste and new heatsink/fan job for a guy but his i~ CPU would never come down even idling on the UEFI screen.
But otherwise, yeah. A properly attached heatsink will still provide enough cooling for 'standard' usage. Even without paste.
This happened to my pc back in may, removing one stick and seeing if it works is the simplest thing if you have the time.
You're just trying to figure out which stick is bad.
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
I'm maxing out video settings on a couple of games - Talos Principle and Xcom 2.
According to Steam I'm getting 47 fps gameplay on the former and 27(!) fps in-game cinematics - albeit 54-60 fps gameplay - on the latter.
With a 1080GTX and 16 gigs of DDR4?
Is that normal?
I'm running reasonable temp (64c) @ 1924 clock.
Cinematics are sometimes pre rendered at ~30fps in games so not affected by hardware.
D3 Steam #TeamTangent STO
I have similar frame-rate results in xcom2 with the same ram/gpu @ 1440p.
Bnet tag: Nermals#11601
One at a time. I have one into the HDMI and one into DVI because my card only has one HDMI for some reason. Technically there are three outputs because I also have the Rift audio plugged into... something.
Are you running your sound through HDMI/DVI or a seperate audio cable?
If the TV provides sound for other devices, the perhaps the cable connecting the PC is lose and/or bad. Try swapping it, either on some other device or maybe just getting a new one.
Perhaps try connecting the sound directly to the TV from the PC, if possible.
EDIT:
Not sure if I'm clear, but do you only connect to the TV or Monitor separately depending on need? Or simultaneously and you just switch it manually?
If simultaneous, try disconnecting all other cables and feed only the TV.
My neighbor yesterday found the AMD RX 460 review that claims it's really good, and it's $110. So would I be better buying the AMD RX for less or should I stick with the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970?
The RX 460 is much newer, but it's a much lighter card as far as I can tell. What kind of gaming are you planning to do on it? What resolution? If you're going over 1080p, you'll definitely want as much power as you can afford (or even less if you're running intensive games).
So it might boil down to whether your GPU budget is x or 2x. A GTX 970 is going to cost you almost twice as much, but outside of DirectX 12 application and some other very specific circumstances, give you almost twice the power to work with. I believe both cards have the same VRAM, though even with the GTX 970 having some of its VRAM underclocked, the large majority of it is clocked faster (I believe). The GTX 970 is also a 256-bit card, versus a 128-bit bus on the RX 460.
There's also the issue of drivers: if you prefer AMD drivers to Nvidia ones, or vice versa, let that inform your decision. But power wise, a closer counterpart to the RX 460 would probably be the GTX 960 or even 950 (though again, much older).
The 970 is still a solid card, but is now one generation old, doesn't make it a bad card, just older now.
If you're gaming at 1080p and price/$ is important you should look at the GTX 1060 or the RX 480. Both are pretty compelling cards that'll do 1080p gaming well for less money than the 970.
The 1060 is probably a slightly better card, though a bit more expensive, and right now finding either in stock is near impossible.
Basically if you play nothing but MOBAs and CS:GO at 1080p it's supposed to be solid, but I wouldn't expect to push it any farther than that.
D3 Steam #TeamTangent STO
I mean, I'm playing on my SNES right now.
I have more, and I chose the matching shape (8-pin and 6-pin with no blanks.) The GPU gives me white lights but my PC won't turn on and the motherboard won't give me an error code. Power is the thing I understand the least and fear the most when working on my PC. How picky is it about cables? How do I safely get this turned on?
EDIT - Got it. The key was not using one 8pin cable and one 6pin cable. I had to switch to one cable that had both beside each other (and the 8 pin was a 6 pin with an extra two as an option.
I hate working with power supplies. The only reason this PC got built was because my roommate taught me in 2013.
the 460 is the "you can stick this in your 2 year old off the shelf dell for $110"
Basically it's the new 750ti.
I might have a couple somewhere in a box, i'll dig around.
What they have marked as E. They're needed to install even a 3.5" drive. I'm told (based on googling and asking a local shop) that each case is typically different.